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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Is a Half Tonner Enough Today?
Out of context that MTWR of 11,000 lbs...
Factor in the GCWR along with the actual weight of that TV is and then see what
the 'true' MTWR is
So many don't know or care that their risk management decision to go over weight
is gambling. Or are only looking for the 'sure you can' stuff that abounds on
any Internet forum
This thread pretty much explains it
http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26069355/gotomsg/26069696.cfm#26069696
Hi and Welcome to the forum !
First thing is a decision in whether you believe in the ratings or not
If not, then do whatever you wish. There is a thread about those who
do NOT believe in the OEM ratings and are pushing their rigs to find
their rating. Really till it breaks and then assume they will then
stay below that number. Clicky to that thread:
http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25928760/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1
Going over the ratings won't instantly have the axle, vehicle, etc
fail like some folks think the 'Weight Police' are saying. PS...there
is no policing, as you can do whatever you wish. Just recommendations
and those types using 'Weight Police' as a derogatory way of disagreeing
If yes, then know that the OEMs must adhere to DOT/etc mandated specifications
for the class of vehicle it is listed under. Also, their ratings are
based on their internal studies for warranty. Sure there are pure
marketing changes to their listed specifications, but they know that
and bite the bullet knowing warranty costs will/maybe higher in order
to sell more against another OEM's 'better' specifications...
Commend you for going out and actually weighing your setup, axle by axle.
The only issue is that you do not know for sure what your GCWR is.
Typically it is the OEM listed TV 'curb' plus the OEM listed MTWR,
+/- a few hundred pounds or so. MTWR is 'Max Tow Weight Rating' of
your TV and note that it is not an absolute rating. Meaning that if you
over load your TV till the tires pop....does it mean you MTWR is still
whatever is listed in the TV's specifications.
Below your quote is a diagram made up for this type of question to
try and help folks see that the individual ratings play in concert
and that it is the bottom line rating that rules or trumps the other
ratings.
Have a 2012 fuzion 35' on the owners info says its Shipping Weight 12,065 lbs
My truck is a 2010 dodge 3500 crew cab 8'bed auto 373 rear end.
On my truck door its says
GAWR Front 5,500 Rear 9,350 GVWR 12,200
I went to the cat scales sun with the trailer and truck.
Trailer had maybe 500 lbs of tools and kitchen stuff. And also had about 80 gal of water in the tank. And Fuel Tanks had about 20 gal of fuel in them.
On the ticket it reads
Steer axle 5,060 lbs
Drive axle 6,500 lbs
Trailer axle 10,580 lbs
Gross weight 22,140 lbs.
I was told my truck GCVW is 21,000 lbs
So I still have about 2,000 lbs to 2,500 lbs more to add in the toy hauler bikes, tools, food, gear and such.
Am I going to be over weight.
I see these trucks with this setup all the time at the tracks. I want to tow safe but the numbers are not adding up to me.
Thanks For any help.
Ron.
Since you are very rare person to have actually weighed your setup
axle by axle...it is just simple math to figure out where you are
in reference to 'your ratings'...then decide on your risk management
position (also known as gambling) Going over your ratings won't
instantly have the wheels fall off...things will just wear out sooner
An empty TV/Trailer setup will stop shorter than that same setup loaded
up to it's ratings or over...pure laws of physic's...all other variables
being equal
Good luck!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/howmuchcanItowdiagramB4.jpg width=540
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BenK
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05/21/12 02:00pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Sorry state of fuel in North America
Good fuel, bad fuel. All I know for a fact is also consider the condition of the fuel holding tanks. Never put gas in your car after you've seen the tanker filling the tanks.
I had 6 of my employees take their new company cars to the gas station across from the office to fuel up for a night out on Friday. One by one all night long I got calls that each one of my 6 cars were dead on the side of the road. The tanker had just filled the tanks, stirred up all the garbage on the bottom and I had to pay for 6 cars to be towed in that night that all needed new fuel filters that were plugged up tight.
Ditto that and say to those who claim that all gas station systems have
filters...yes they do and 'most' of their owners do keep up with their
tank filter maintenace...but...there are those out there who either
don't care or need to pinch very penny with little to no regard to their
customers...
My 1996 Sub was about 1 year old when I took my family and mom'n dad
down to Disney Land. Brother had his Honda loaded up with the his and
the rest of the family
Highway 5 down central California
Filled up often in no name stations along 5, as my 7.4L big block does
NOT pass many gas stations...
Down in LA it ran 'funny' and on the morning leaving it died in the
hotel parking lot. Restarted right up and made it home (SF Bayarea)
with no problems or missing
The next day made to work, about a 35 mile drive.
Leaving the work parking lot it missed a few times and died about 1/4
mile from the work parking lot.
Had it towed home and went to my Suburban forum. Found that many had
similar and their mechanics said the fuel pump.
Took me 2 whole days to drop the 42 gallon tank and change out the
fuel pump (in tank) by myself. Also changed the 'brand new' fuel filter
I had installed just before that trip. It has about 10 miles on it when
we left for LA
Was assigned to SunLabs then and had access to the laboratory equipment
and tech's running it
They found that the filter was plugged and the mas spec showed mud
(dirt) and ferrous oxide (rust) as the main particulates that plugged
the filter
Our only conclusion was that one of the stations either bypassed their
tank filters or removed them.
Brothers Honda died of the exact same thing about a week later, but
his pump survived and only needed a new filter.
Amazes (not really any more) that folks think that since nothing has
happened to them, that nothing happens to anyone else...
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BenK
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05/21/12 01:49pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Maximum I can tow safely with this truck
I have a 2012 Ford F-150 Ecoboost with the 3.5 V6 engine 3:73 ratio with Max towing package. Sticker on door says GVWR-7650 lbs. Manual says maximum towing capacity is 11,200. Does this mean I can safely tow 11,000? I currently have a 20 ft Jayco. Too small and need to go bigger. Would like 26- 29 feet. Some trailers state on websites shipping weight, not GVWR. Any help greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the forum !
Glad you are asking these questions
Here is a thread from another OP who has actually weighed his setup, axle by axle
and my response with a diagram showing how the OEM ratings all play together
You do need to gather the right ratings information in order to shop intelligently
for a properly sized trailer for 'your' TV
Good luck and ask tons of questions.
http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26069355.cfm
Hi and Welcome to the forum !
First thing is a decision in whether you believe in the ratings or not
If not, then do whatever you wish. There is a thread about those who
do NOT believe in the OEM ratings and are pushing their rigs to find
their rating. Really till it breaks and then assume they will then
stay below that number. Clicky to that thread:
http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25928760/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1
Going over the ratings won't instantly have the axle, vehicle, etc
fail like some folks think the 'Weight Police' are saying. PS...there
is no policing, as you can do whatever you wish. Just recommendations
and those types using 'Weight Police' as a derogatory way of disagreeing
If yes, then know that the OEMs must adhere to DOT/etc mandated specifications
for the class of vehicle it is listed under. Also, their ratings are
based on their internal studies for warranty. Sure there are pure
marketing changes to their listed specifications, but they know that
and bite the bullet knowing warranty costs will/maybe higher in order
to sell more against another OEM's 'better' specifications...
Commend you for going out and actually weighing your setup, axle by axle.
The only issue is that you do not know for sure what your GCWR is.
Typically it is the OEM listed TV 'curb' plus the OEM listed MTWR,
+/- a few hundred pounds or so. MTWR is 'Max Tow Weight Rating' of
your TV and note that it is not an absolute rating. Meaning that if you
over load your TV till the tires pop....does it mean you MTWR is still
whatever is listed in the TV's specifications.
Below your quote is a diagram made up for this type of question to
try and help folks see that the individual ratings play in concert
and that it is the bottom line rating that rules or trumps the other
ratings.
Have a 2012 fuzion 35' on the owners info says its Shipping Weight 12,065 lbs
My truck is a 2010 dodge 3500 crew cab 8'bed auto 373 rear end.
On my truck door its says
GAWR Front 5,500 Rear 9,350 GVWR 12,200
I went to the cat scales sun with the trailer and truck.
Trailer had maybe 500 lbs of tools and kitchen stuff. And also had about 80 gal of water in the tank. And Fuel Tanks had about 20 gal of fuel in them.
On the ticket it reads
Steer axle 5,060 lbs
Drive axle 6,500 lbs
Trailer axle 10,580 lbs
Gross weight 22,140 lbs.
I was told my truck GCVW is 21,000 lbs
So I still have about 2,000 lbs to 2,500 lbs more to add in the toy hauler bikes, tools, food, gear and such.
Am I going to be over weight.
I see these trucks with this setup all the time at the tracks. I want to tow safe but the numbers are not adding up to me.
Thanks For any help.
Ron.
Since you are very rare person to have actually weighed your setup
axle by axle...it is just simple math to figure out where you are
in reference to 'your ratings'...then decide on your risk management
position (also known as gambling) Going over your ratings won't
instantly have the wheels fall off...things will just wear out sooner
An empty TV/Trailer setup will stop shorter than that same setup loaded
up to it's ratings or over...pure laws of physic's...all other variables
being equal
Good luck!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/howmuchcanItowdiagramB4.jpg width=540
|
BenK
|
05/21/12 11:32am |
Tow Vehicles
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|
RE: Help with weight numbers
Hi and Welcome to the forum !
First thing is a decision in whether you believe in the ratings or not
If not, then do whatever you wish. There is a thread about those who
do NOT believe in the OEM ratings and are pushing their rigs to find
their rating. Really till it breaks and then assume they will then
stay below that number. Clicky to that thread:
http://forums.woodalls.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25928760/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1
Going over the ratings won't instantly have the axle, vehicle, etc
fail like some folks think the 'Weight Police' are saying. PS...there
is no policing, as you can do whatever you wish. Just recommendations
and those types using 'Weight Police' as a derogatory way of disagreeing
If yes, then know that the OEMs must adhere to DOT/etc mandated specifications
for the class of vehicle it is listed under. Also, their ratings are
based on their internal studies for warranty. Sure there are pure
marketing changes to their listed specifications, but they know that
and bite the bullet knowing warranty costs will/maybe higher in order
to sell more against another OEM's 'better' specifications...
Commend you for going out and actually weighing your setup, axle by axle.
The only issue is that you do not know for sure what your GCWR is.
Typically it is the OEM listed TV 'curb' plus the OEM listed MTWR,
+/- a few hundred pounds or so. MTWR is 'Max Tow Weight Rating' of
your TV and note that it is not an absolute rating. Meaning that if you
over load your TV till the tires pop....does it mean you MTWR is still
whatever is listed in the TV's specifications.
Below your quote is a diagram made up for this type of question to
try and help folks see that the individual ratings play in concert
and that it is the bottom line rating that rules or trumps the other
ratings.
Have a 2012 fuzion 35' on the owners info says its Shipping Weight 12,065 lbs
My truck is a 2010 dodge 3500 crew cab 8'bed auto 373 rear end.
On my truck door its says
GAWR Front 5,500 Rear 9,350 GVWR 12,200
I went to the cat scales sun with the trailer and truck.
Trailer had maybe 500 lbs of tools and kitchen stuff. And also had about 80 gal of water in the tank. And Fuel Tanks had about 20 gal of fuel in them.
On the ticket it reads
Steer axle 5,060 lbs
Drive axle 6,500 lbs
Trailer axle 10,580 lbs
Gross weight 22,140 lbs.
I was told my truck GCVW is 21,000 lbs
So I still have about 2,000 lbs to 2,500 lbs more to add in the toy hauler bikes, tools, food, gear and such.
Am I going to be over weight.
I see these trucks with this setup all the time at the tracks. I want to tow safe but the numbers are not adding up to me.
Thanks For any help.
Ron.
Since you are very rare person to have actually weighed your setup
axle by axle...it is just simple math to figure out where you are
in reference to 'your ratings'...then decide on your risk management
position (also known as gambling) Going over your ratings won't
instantly have the wheels fall off...things will just wear out sooner
An empty TV/Trailer setup will stop shorter than that same setup loaded
up to it's ratings or over...pure laws of physic's...all other variables
being equal
Good luck!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Towing/howmuchcanItowdiagramB4.jpg width=540
|
BenK
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05/21/12 11:18am |
Towing
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RE: Thinking of downgrading
Decide which is more important to you...economy or ability...they are generally
mutually exclusive
Don't know how big that trailer is, but if a big one, then 'downsizing' might have
you move into something not big enough to do the job (ability), but have better
MPG (not by that much either)
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BenK
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05/18/12 10:32pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Tahoe vrs F150
snip...
I'm done with it! Bash away! this is the d@mndest RV forum on the internet for reasonable discussion about trucks.
Know how you feel and suggest using the blocking function...
Not much different than other forums I either own or post on, so what
is the difference? None IMHO
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BenK
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05/18/12 10:25pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Transmission oil change
snip...
Don't know about flushing, I am assuming it is using a machine, but there is a good write up about changing the fluid on the 4R100, don't know if that is called flushing ,but it sure seems to replace on the fluid, and is done by letting the transmission pump do all the work . That is the way I have always done mine, but we are talking 5R110, not the 4R100, that some keep referring to. Have no idea if the same procedure works on the 5R110.
Careful on some, mostly imports, as they do NOT like that (using their
internal pump...TC) and will ruin the automatic.
Got to any of the corner lube places and ask them if they have any
'do not' use their flushing machines on
I flush my Silverado and Suburban with the disconnect of the line 'from'
the tranny to the radiator method.
My Suburban's 4L80E takes just over 16 quarts and 'use' over 20 to
completely flush it. The Silverado is 12 qts and 16 qts to totally flush
Haven't DIY'd my Odyssey, yet. After the re-build I installed an
external ATF cooler (plate type) and in-line filter (Napa IIRC about $2 bucks).
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BenK
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05/18/12 06:22pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Does slight damage to w/d bar render it unusable?
Curiosity on my part...
Now that the OP has the 'sure you can' vs 'be careful' vs 'nope'...wondering
what the OP's decision is on their topic
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BenK
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05/18/12 01:24pm |
Towing
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RE: New Andersen WD hitch
I think the lack of bounce is both that the plastic springs do NOT respond as
quickly as a steel spring does. Meaning that there is a delay or dampening of
the pothole/etc does to the WD Setup (compresses the spring further and then
releases it quickly)
Other is that the amount of compression is less than with the traditional WD
springs
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BenK
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05/18/12 01:14pm |
Towing
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RE: Tahoe vrs F150
What auto OEM does NOT have problems?
We do not live in a perfect world...but guess many do...or think/imagine they do
It is NOT bashing/etc when a real world issue is posted, but to blind loyalists...anything
negative is bashing...IMHO
Read my posts...I'm a GM fan, but also call a spade a spade whenever GM screws
up...
Like my dislike for DeathCool (DexCool...OATs and Ford/others use HOATs)
Like my high school buddy who inherited his dad's AC/Radiator shop all
of a sudden retired because of the dramatic increase in business due
to DeathCool...with so many in those early DeathCool days accused me
of bashing GM's DeathCool...
Or the POS GMT800 receiver...
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BenK
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05/18/12 01:04pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Transmission oil change
What is the recommended option for changing transmission oil on the signature truck?
Which option is the one that removes ALL the oil?
Thank you.
Have changed my mind from for sure to flush ALL of the ATF on a
regular basis....to it depends...
Depends whether it has had a regular flush cycle
Changed because have heard the warnings of DO NOT flush and it has
to do with not having it flushed on a regular basis
What happens is that those that have not seen a regular flush cycle
will have the ATF develop varnishes/etc, which mask worn mating surfaces
Mainly because whenever the TC is unlocked, there is slippage and the
ATF heats up, many times hot enough to degrade the ATF to form varnishes
When a flush is done after the fact, the solvents in ATF (all ATF has
solvents...some more than others) will dissolve and/or loosen those
varnishes to do two things
#1) That mating surface requires some level of tolerance (precision)
and now will be too loose to seal and so it's job
#2) That loosened varnish may NOT be totally melted and are solids
floating around to plug or mess up some other precision thing
I bought a 2000 Honda Odyssey mini van that had never seen an auto
flush. I flush all of my automatics ever other year like clock work,
but those are vehicle I bought new and/or have rebuilt their automatics
The Odyssey's automatic developed wacky shifting and funny noises
about 100 miles after it's first flush at about 120K miles.
It depends...
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BenK
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05/18/12 12:58pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Nissan Armada Towing MPG
Was just wondering what I can expect for mpg when towing with my 2011 Nissan Armada. I will be towing a 2012 Keystone Hideout 31RBDS.
Should I get a second mortgage for my gas usage?
So much depends on the other variables and to take towing MPG is out
of context
Meaning that these other attributes contribute to the bottom line MPG
Size of the trailer, weight/frontal area/drag co-efficient of that frontal area/roll resistance of the trailer tires/etcTerrain, altitude/humidity/inclines/wind/road condition/etcDriving StyleTV engine type and it's pumping lossesTransmission lossesGearingTire size and subsequent rolling resistanceETC
Like my 7.4L big block with 4.1's/automatic/over sized tires and my
driving style will get around 7-8 MPG towing +8K lbs of boat from sea
level to Lake Tahoe (+8K to +9K altitude). While the same era Suburban
with a small block (5.7L) towing the same boat will get 6-7 MPG
That says the small block is working harder than my big block
Why the disparity in reported MPG's...out of context unless normalized
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BenK
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05/18/12 12:50pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: NAPA DEF sale
This guy doesn't need to buy DEF...as long as there is lots of beer on hand.... :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Humor/wiredsneighbor.jpg
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BenK
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05/17/12 12:07pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Tahoe vrs F150
Yup, busted spark plugs...another yup, spark plugs should NOT be left in there
that long...else they will have a much higher chance of breaking off
My 2006 F150, 5.4 4x4, expensive trip to the garage
Hey everyone, this isn't a rant, I'm just sharing. I bought my truck two years ago, it only has 97000 km, and has had no issues up till now. Two weeks ago I was driving home from work and my truck started making a terrible howling noise, which seemed to originate somewhere in the rear of the truck. I have a friend who is an auto mechanic and his family owns the garage he works at, so I brought it to him to check out. I bring it to them because I trust them, not because I expect a deal. He hopped in the truck with me to go for a ride and listen to the noise, and in less than a city block,he told me it would be a rebuild of the rear diff,and it would probably be expensive. I had planned to bring the truck in and have it checked out before camping season, so I told him to go through the entire truck and let me know what else needed attention.
Well it turns out the rear diff wasn't a total rebuild, but all the bearings needed to be replaced. Lots of labor, but not much for parts, about $900.00. Then the extra stuff: serpentine belt, front brake pads and rotors, transmission service, transfer case service, front diff fluid change, full synthetic oil change, and the dreaded spark plug change. Now the plugs may not have needed to be changed right now, but I figured since he had it, he may as well. They broke 4 of the 8 plugs, and with the extra charges for labor to extract the broken plugs, it was $880.00! All together the bill came to $2975.33. Ouch! Thank goodness we had a decent return from the tax man and were able to pay cash for the repairs.
Regardless of the cost, I now feel like the truck is safe and ready to go for the summer camping season, and its hard to put a price tag on that feeling.
Not your 'normal' looking plug...or at least to me, not normal...
http://www.pickuptrucks.com/IMAGES/2004/ford/f150/f15015.jpg
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BenK
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05/17/12 11:57am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Ok here we go
It's just me...maybe some others, but I'll always have as much capacity/margin/etc
as I can muster and then some more
As when Mr Murphy crosses someone's path, they either have it or not. 'It' can
be sizing, performance, or whatever 'might' make a difference...or in some cases
like Marty's example...nothing but bad luck no matter what you have
So what that my 8.6K GVWR Suburban can out stop a BMW...it makes no matter
in some instances...but...it might in another
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BenK
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05/16/12 12:18pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Front seems like it is drifting, went to CAT scales
'Dry' is another bogus thing. I've never come across one, but doesn't
mean there aren't any out there. That is the stripper model with no
battery, spare tire, rear bumper, AC, appliances, etc, etc...
I hear that model only comes with a vinyl tile floor and a pole. They are very light :)
Ihave yet to see a trailer that has no appliances. a rear bumper is required by law! every TT I have ever looked at shows the standard features. and all list appliances as standard and most show the awning and A/C as standard along with other things.
Maybe if you have weighed you Excursion and compared it to the listed
'curb'...you might understand that metric the OEMs use
'Curb' is the TV's equivalent of 'dry' for a trailer
Then consider the other factors employed by the OEM marketing folks...
Do you weigh in at 150 lbs ?
My point is that I agree with you that most all TV's and trailers
do come with those options you list...but that is the other part of
my point...the 'dry' weight normally does NOT include those options
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BenK
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05/16/12 11:42am |
Towing
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RE: New Towing Spec's will make our choice's better.
Posted that link to DOT/FMCSA laws/regulations/rules/etc (whatever you wish
to call it, it is a requirement of OEMs in order to legally sell vehicles for
public road usage) because there has been and will continue to be discussions
and disagreements on what attributes are 'performance' related
Then the discussion/argument on what are 'ratings' and whether they apply or
are law/regulation/rule/etc
This got me to thinking and realized that most all of my car and truck magazines
has a difference in their 'performance' sheet/section. All of the car spec section
has braking distance (60mph to zero), but the truck mag's do not (will check some
back issues)
Is that because the general public/readers don't care, don't understand, or
do not want to see it vs what a car can do?
So my guess is either folks don't care, don't know any better, or
maybe haven't ever seen braking in the performance spec for a 'truck'
How does this correlate with this thread?
Title is: "New Towing Spec's will make our choice's better" and spec's
are also performance and performance is ratings and braking is part of
that...as are many other attributes
Too many only look at the acceleration, top speed, and MTWR with either
no understanding that it is a whole system with each rating factored
by other ratings...or they don't care
This diagram shows that DOT/FMVSS/FMCSA/etc does have stopping distances are
part of their 'rules' or 'regulations'...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Brake/Bendixstoppingdistanceimage.gif
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BenK
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05/16/12 11:02am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New Truck Break in period
The 500 miles isn't for the eng or trans, it's for the differential to develop a healthy wear pattern on the teeth. This is nearly impossible if it's under a lot of strain like when towing.
Failure to get the 500 miles may result in no side effects at all or it may show up later as a hum or other rear-end noise as mileage grows.
X2
Although I've heard the flip side of this question also. What do all the Class A's and C's do?
Just me but I'd take a nice drive to get the 500 miles before towing.
Congrats on the new TV!
X3
Most likely no adverse effects...but...there are many out there who
have noise from their diff's from not breaking it in
It is the diff gears that need to marry themselves to each other as
part of the break in.
Why there is a magnet in the diff cover of the newer vehicles. Boy
racer's used to put in a magnet in their diffs...especially after a
rebuild or ratio change.
You'd be more inclined to follow the OEM's requirement (yes, try to
get a warranty on a noisy diff if they can prove you didn't break it
in) if you have ever flushed a diff housing by removing the cover.
The sludge on the bottom is all metal removed during the break in and
during HARD usage
It's about $1,000 bucks to rebuild a diff. Some more if it has the
G80 locker and the metal in the fluid screwed the clutches
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BenK
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05/16/12 10:27am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Does slight damage to w/d bar render it unusable?
Depends on where that flat spot is, how much is gone vs left, anyother dings, etc, etc
It is made of spring steel and hardened (my assumption) and is NOT a good thing
to have stress raisers on any spring
How much does a new one cost and agree with Jerem....penny wise pound foolish is
the potential position...again depends on where/how much/etc was taken off
If me, I'd replace it
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BenK
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05/16/12 10:19am |
Towing
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RE: Should I buy this F350 7.3L to replace my Suburban K2500?
There is a guy who converted his Suburban to a Duramax and then started a company
to do those conversions.
IIRC, you supply the base 8.6K GVWR Suburban, pay him $40K and he will return your
Suburban with a Duramax conversion. That was a few years ago and maybe he has
recouped his costing and now selling them for a bit less
The issue with stuffing a Duramax/Alli into an 8.6K GVWR Suburban is that the frame
rails are too close together and there isn't enough room in the body tranny
tunnel. A body lift is needed and GM won't do this.
Here are some links on the DuraBurb:
DieselPlace "DuraBurb TowPro Duramax 2500HD Suburban"
Duraburb Project
Here is one for sale $79.95K
DuraBurb company profile
or just do a search on DuraBurb
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BenK
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05/15/12 03:14pm |
Tow Vehicles
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