shenandoah75
Deland, FL
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Joined: 08/24/2002
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So i took a 9000 trip to Montana last year and for various reasons i did not rotate tire during the trip (even though i new i should have)... I did a rotation when i got back (i had bought an extra 2500 rim so i include the spare in the mix - all 5 wheels)
Bottom line, the tires originally on the rear during the trip and now on the front have lost ~1/8" more tread than the rear/spare due to the towing and load we had in the back of the burb for the trip...
Now, I can rotate one of the lowest ones each time in the mix to help offset it. But the question is unloaded with is 90% of our driving, will the rear or front wear faster? On the one hand i would say the drive wheels, but on the other since there's not a lot of weight there and the front has to turn/has the friction of just free turning, i dunno...
If it was a front wheel drive, clearly i'd want the lower treads in the rear, but what's the call here. I live in florida where it rains a lot which sortof makes me lean toward putting the good ones in the rear. I'm also thinking like treads would be a good thing on the rear axle (the locking G80) too...
any comments?
thx in advance
-brad
05' Suburban K2500 8.1L w/ 4.10s
2012 Jayco 32TSBH
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NCHornet1
Mt. Airy, NC.
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Joined: 05/17/2003
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Your front tires will have more uneven wear than the rear. With a unloaded truck they are also carrying more of a load. I hope this helps.
2000 Ford F350 4X4 PSD,CC, DRW
4:10's, BTM Muffler, Isspro Gauges,
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camping man
Central Fla.
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Joined: 09/01/2001
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The front one's will give you the problems now, uneven wear.
05 Dodge CTD NV5600 6speed / 97 Sprinter 5er
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BenK
SF BayArea
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Joined: 04/18/2002
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Need more info.
What size tires, brand, and type (P or LT)?
What wheel spec? OEM steel or alloy? What rim width?
Suspension mods?
Assume autoride 2500, which is just the special/expensive shocks. They have been reported to be in the $400/each range over at the Suburban forum Suburban forum.
"TRUCKs" will have "cupping" problems with front tires. Especially when there are 1) more rake in it's stance (front lower than rear), 2) worn shocks.
What pressure did you run on all four?
1/8th wear in 9k miles is a *LOT*. What is the TT's spec's? Acutal weight?
Did you manage to lower the front in reference to the rear? Do you have the POS OEM receiver or did you change it out to a traditional receiver?
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
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IFIXIMATTIMES
DON'T OWN ONE YET
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Joined: 05/07/2004
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i have '05 subu. 8.1 w/4.10,autoride mandatory from gm w/ hd combo! i think it is political!i work for a multicar dealership (dodge),i do a lot of alignment + ft end repairs.i own and drive only gm products. all major tire manufactors require 7.5k tire rotation .i doubt you have enough tougue weight to cause rear tire wear.you have lt 245/75 16 ,you should keep tire pres. near max. (80)psi when towing. your ft. tires will always wear faster + more uneven,turning at rest parking/scrubbing + bumps cause align to vary on up/down movement.ft tires will always be a little bumpy + rounded over.rears will always be even + flat across, rear tires track up/down at same angle.does the vehicle droop too much w/trailer on it?are you using weight distribution,that transfers weight to front?how are ft tires wearing?feel free to contact me for info if you need it.tom m./master tech
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