downtheroad
Puget Sound
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Joined: 02/18/2003
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I appreciate the desire to get better fuel mileage..less weight and slowing down certainly help.
But, when it is all said and done, keep in mind that we are talking RVing...good fuel mileage and RVing are an oxymoron.
You will probably spend lots more money retrofitting your rig than you will save overall in mileage.
I just accept the fact that it is going to cost me and get on down the road.
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane"
GMC Duramax/Allison (LBZ)
Komfort 277TS .... Our Rig Picture
Reese Dual Cam HP
Lots of other stuff nobody cares about
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shorthair
vancouver, wa. usa.
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Joined: 03/18/2004
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RRUGG wrote:For a few years we had two TTs. One was 22 ft and weighed about 5000 Lbs loaded. The other is called a 29 but is actually about 33 ft and weighs about 3000 lbs more than the smaller. We got the same or better mpgs with the longer heavier trailer at the same speeds over the same roads. The bigger trailer is much more aerodynamic than the smaller, having a more rounded front, propane tanks enclosed within the trailer body instead of being out on the tongue, and it has a fully enclosed underbelly. Have no opinion on the shocks the larger trailer has.
Some where IIRC there is a formula for boats that equates hull length with speed & longer was faster.
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kaydeejay
SE Michigan, USA
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Joined: 07/26/2004
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Aerodynamics and speed will contribute way more than the affect on fuel consumption that weight reduction will make.
Weight affects fuel used during acceleration and climbing hills more than level cruising, so if you spend a lot of time in the mountains or starting and stopping you may see a slight difference.
Otherwise, (IMHO) as long as you are not overloaded, it's not worth worrying about.
As for not filling each time, I suggest you will use MORE fuel looking/stopping for the next part-fill than you will save by not filling the tank each time.
I doubled my tank capacity from 26gal to 52gal. That only added 150# when full, but more than doubled my useful range (from 200 to 500miles) and made zero difference to my consumption. I completely fill each time.
Just my 2¢.
Keith J, Retired from GM Engineering
1999 Sunnybrook 27RKFS Fiver
2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLE 2WD/CC/SB/DA, 52 gal Titan tank, Bilsteins, Line-X, Westin steps, Prodigy, Retrax, 16K Superglide, 5th-Airborne pin box, Multi-vex mirrors, TST TPMS.
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WTTCS
freedom , U.S.A.
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Joined: 07/28/2003
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Get a VW beatle.
1997 chev crew cab 454, 5 sp. 4.10
2000 Fleetwood Caribou 11.5
2006 3500RL Montana
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semiretiredDIY
WA state
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Joined: 12/15/2008
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My MH has a 12 foot overhang, with my 270 lb scooter on the back, 525 lbs are added to the rear wheels. Where the weight is makes a big difference. What year is your MH? Mine is a 95, They have used lighter weight materials throughout, as compared to my 83.
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thmil
East Bay
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Joined: 11/12/2009
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Sounds like hypermiling.
The longboat/long trailer is a good analogy, decreased resistance by lowering coefficient of drag in order to make the RV slice down the highway at peak efficiency. Take off all those vent covers, AC units, stacks and antenae, modify mirrors, add wheel disks and fender skirts, fully enclosed underbelly, and reduce weight.
Keep your tires pumpped up and motor/exhaust/cooling in tune. Driver modification of behavior; drive 55, coast downhill, and drive with the wind instead of against it.
Also if you know your route of travel you should know where fueling/rest stations are along the way, or you should be able to use the printed guides or the internet beforehand to plan your route. Don't worry about the price of fuel so much as its availability, price for fuel will always average out over a long trip. Stopping for fuel also means that you can use their potty and sink, thus consrving the fresh water you bring.
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beemerphile1
I'm only 54, I'm not a
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Joined: 04/20/2007
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I almost always travel with full fresh water tanks. I mostly dry camp without any hookups or water. I carry 100 gallons of water, the difference in fuel consumption is minimal to the point that I have never been able to notice any difference.
I always have at least a few gallons in the black tank but try to avoid carrying gray water. The reason is that my gray tank is at the front of the trailer and adds a lot of tongue weight. One fresh water tank is over the axles and the other is just ahead of the axles, doesn't affect tongue weight very much.
Tim (in NE Ohio)
"Okay, I admit it, the only thing I'm really good at is being me."
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900 towed by 1998 Ford E150 4.6L
2009 Aliner Sport towed by 2009 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L
1996 BMW R1100GS
2007 Trek 7.2FX
2005 Trek Madone 9spd.
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K3WE
Missouri
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Joined: 05/24/2005
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After reading a lot of 65 vs 55 posts, I did a little math.
On a 500 mile trip, driving 65 gets you there 1 hour and 24 minutes sooner.
If this makes your MPG drop from 10 to 8, and gas is 2.50, you will pay $31.25 MORE in gas. If time = money, you are paying $22.35/ for every hour you gain.
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restlesswind
Fulltime
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Joined: 10/13/2007
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I have found that the main factor in getting "poor" miles per gal and "less poor" miles per gal.depends on my right foot.My mpg goes up about 10% if I hold at close to 55mpg,the faster I go the "more poor" the mpg.That, and "easing" up to that 55mph mark,rather than lead-foot it.Jack rabbit start off is the hardest on the mpg.
Hichhiker DA
04.5 Dodge TD SRW
Fulltimers
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BULLETLS1
Guatemala, C.A. (NOT Dakotas, Wyoming, Iowa...)
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Joined: 11/29/2008
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some help in the "hard to modify" .... aerodynamics
AIRTAB
Also Im doing a "big mod" that is to transplant a diesel engine (international T444e, A.K.A. ford navistar 7.3) to a southwind, chev 454, my goal is to go from 9mpg to almost 14 mpg on ( here subsidized) more eficient diesel!
I I HAVE A DATE WITH ETERNITY, AND I DON´T WANT TO BE LATE!
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