Woodalls Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Changing a class C tire
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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > Changing a class C tire

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Normk

Canada's Wet Coast

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Posted: 06/25/10 11:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What-ever you decide to use as a jack, the recommendation to use a back-up for safety is excellent. The most important point regarding safety stands is to make sure that there is substantial weight resting on the safety stand or back-up jack.

People often place the safety stand under the vehicle, expecting that the stand will catch the vehicle if it should fall. Unfortunately many fatalities have shown that the vehicle will often bounce onto and dislodge the stand with tragic results.

Godsey97

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Posted: 06/25/10 11:29pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have had to change a front right on a friends MH when we were on our way to the Brickyard 400 once. PITA...... I am not feeble by any means, but I would call Good Sam ERS and sit in the coach with the AC going, maybe have a sandwhich while I wait. I am ever in that big a hurry that I can't wait a few minutes.

If I was determined to get the gear to change it myself, I would most certainly do it a time or two in the driveway. It is no different then when I learned to drive, my dad made me change a tire (take it off and put it back on) in the driveway as part of my "Driver's Ed). Still to this day, when I get a new vehicle, I always come home and spend an afternoon going over EVERYTHING. Pop the hood and look at all the fluid dipsticks and fluid fill openings. I also take a tire off and put it back on. This enables me to learn where the jack and jack handle are located, how to access the spare etc... It is infinitely easier to do it in the comfort of my drive than to learn on the side of the expressway in heavy traffic or driving rain.

j-d

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Posted: 06/25/10 11:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That jack+stand combo looks good, and the 11-21" range is good too. A 3-ton jack is enough to lift one corner of a Class C, but what kind of lever effort does it take when you're trying to do it under the vehicle?
I had a 4- a 5- and a 12-ton jack. Always used the 12 because it had a bigger base and took very little effort to raise the coach. It quit on me and I got a 10-ton to replace it. It works fine but I don't think I'd want many less tons just because of the effort. I'm not lazy but I don't want to rupture something either...


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CelticWizard

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Posted: 06/26/10 05:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Godsey97 wrote:

I have had to change a front right on a friends MH when we were on our way to the Brickyard 400 once. PITA...... I am not feeble by any means, but I would call Good Sam ERS and sit in the coach with the AC going, maybe have a sandwhich while I wait. I am ever in that big a hurry that I can't wait a few minutes.

If I was determined to get the gear to change it myself, I would most certainly do it a time or two in the driveway. It is no different then when I learned to drive, my dad made me change a tire (take it off and put it back on) in the driveway as part of my "Driver's Ed). Still to this day, when I get a new vehicle, I always come home and spend an afternoon going over EVERYTHING. Pop the hood and look at all the fluid dipsticks and fluid fill openings. I also take a tire off and put it back on. This enables me to learn where the jack and jack handle are located, how to access the spare etc... It is infinitely easier to do it in the comfort of my drive than to learn on the side of the expressway in heavy traffic or driving rain.


CelticWizard

Cornwall,Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 06/26/10 06:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree with the fact to use jack tonage of 10 12 ton. Better to be safe than sorry.I've have changed plenty of tires on side of highway, as I i'm a O/O of a big rig.I always carry a spare behind my sleeper..I also just bought an older class C motorhome..So I'm new to motorhome driving..But I have a good idea what to do.But still like to ask question and read articles. But make sure you have plenty of triangles and flares behind your motorhome when changing tires, day or night...So not to get hit..Also more wood or rubber blocks the better for front tires...I also carry a short handle mallet to get the wheels off.. and a tin of nut graphite grease for wheel nuts. I just bought a torque bar for the motorhome too...I've been reading this form the last few days ..Lot of info here...Happy get away from it all...to all of you.

mlh

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Posted: 06/27/10 09:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've got one more question while we're all here...and I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but wanted to get opinions. Does jacking up on one corner flex the RV very much, and does it hurt it to do so? I'm sure it is OK, because it must be done to change the tire, but I just read another post about how bad flexing is for the RV and it got me thinking.


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Westronics

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Posted: 06/27/10 11:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mlh wrote:

I've got one more question while we're all here...and I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but wanted to get opinions. Does jacking up on one corner flex the RV very much, and does it hurt it to do so? I'm sure it is OK, because it must be done to change the tire, but I just read another post about how bad flexing is for the RV and it got me thinking.


It should be okay while changing the tire, but MHs have an issue with the whole body flexing - somewhat like what would happen if you jacked up only one corner of you house. I think it's fine to do it to change a tire, but that's all, because causing the frame to flex makes the entire house get all out of whack.


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Dakzuki

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Posted: 06/27/10 03:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Westronics wrote:

mlh wrote:

I've got one more question while we're all here...and I'm pretty sure I know the answer, but wanted to get opinions. Does jacking up on one corner flex the RV very much, and does it hurt it to do so? I'm sure it is OK, because it must be done to change the tire, but I just read another post about how bad flexing is for the RV and it got me thinking.


It should be okay while changing the tire, but MHs have an issue with the whole body flexing - somewhat like what would happen if you jacked up only one corner of you house. I think it's fine to do it to change a tire, but that's all, because causing the frame to flex makes the entire house get all out of whack.


It'll be fine. You are lifting the RV by the suspension so you are not doing anything worse than normal driving does as far as torque load on the chassis/house.


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j-d

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Posted: 06/27/10 04:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"It'll be fine. You are lifting the RV by the suspension so you are not doing anything worse than normal driving does as far as torque load on the chassis/house."

x2!

Part of why it's not a good idea to use leveling jacks to change a tire. To protect the frame you'd have to lift the whole side or whole end and that makes the lift unstable, risky when there are wheel(s) off.

And while we're at it...
Putting trans in Park or Gear doesn't help keep the unit in place when one rear corner is off the ground.

OK, y'all knew that...
But also, the E450 PARKING BRAKE also holds the driveshaft, so it's no more effective than the transmission when it comes to keeping a jacked-at-the-rear unit from rolling. E350 isn't that way, but I think some of the Workhorse and P-30 series Class A's are... Gotta Block The Wheels!

HEMIDAZE

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Posted: 06/27/10 05:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

" As far as being on unstable / unlevel ground with cars passing 70 mph two feet away...I would not even change a car tire in those situations"

In my case there was an 8 foot shoulder and a guard rail for miles. I called 911 and asked for some backup. A state trooper came and ran his lights until I was on my way again.


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