Rolin
Oregon
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We love our Chevy based Class C but have experienced uncomfortable brake shudder/shaking when the brakes are used hard (like on an extended downgrade). We always down shift but I think that the brakes should be more robust than they are. I have found information on-line (Chevy truck forum) that suggests that ours is not an isolated situation.
I would like to replace the front rotors this Spring. I am considering using a slotted/drilled rotor and maybe ceramic pads. Wondering if anyone on this forum has replaced their rotors and what the results were. Brembo seems to be the best quality rotors. On the Chevy truck forum some have had issues with lower cost rotors.
Has anyone replaced their rotors? What did you use? What were the results? Did you do it yourself?
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fisher60
Plant City, Florida
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I've traveled the mountains on the east coast for a number of trips and have not experienced any symtoms like you are describing. Mt brakes are stock.
'01 Dutchman Express 28A, Borg Chrome Dually Valve Stems, Pacific Dualies Wheel Simulators, '06 Tuscon, '06 FLHTC/I
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Rolin
Oregon
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Hi fisher60, Thanks for the reply. I believe that the Dutchman 28A has a Ford chassis. The specific brake issue we are experiencing seem to be more evident on the Chevy cutaway van chassis (3500). I don't think the same issue exists on the Chevy based Class A.
I don't understand the difference (design) between the Ford and Chevy cutaway van disk brakes.
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carringb
Corvallis, OR
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Rolin wrote:
I don't understand the difference (design) between the Ford and Chevy cutaway van disk brakes.
The Ford has much more brakes. Larger rotors, larger pads, stiffer calipers, larger caliper pitons, and higher brake line pressure.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, 300,000+ miles
Had: Weekend Warrior 41' FSW
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carringb
Corvallis, OR
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Drilled rotors are bad news for heavy loads. They will crack in no time. Ceramic pads will work better at higher temps, but won't keep the rotors cooler. Ceramics do not have as much friction when cold however.
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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The guys have really covered the issue well, but I have one question and one suggestion.
Question? Did this develop during your ownership and usage or was it from possible abuse by previous owner? If PO damage, you may be able to replace pads, rotors, probably calipers (and be sure to change the hoses!) and then drive more conservatively on the new brakes.
Comment! Be sure the REAR brakes are functioning 100%. If they are not, then you're asking the fronts to do more than they were ever designed for.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
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nagel
Missouri
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Don't know if this is your problem, but had a similar issue on my Ford.
I pulled the rotors off and had them serviced and installed new pads. Still had the problem. After more investigation had a caliper not functioning properly. Bought new caliper and everything is good.
Snagel
Steven R. Nagel
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snowdance
Yreka, Ca
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I have a Chevy 3500 cut away. Never had any problems and we live in the mts and use them all the time.. Brakes much better than our Ford ever did. Have to wonder if you roters are not the problem. Perhaps you need check them. That feeling you say you have is common on all cars, pickups, ect when you have warped roters. Often coming from brake pads other than the stock pads. The harder the pad the more heat and the more heat the more chance you will warp the roters.. As some one else said I would stay away from other than stock type disk and pads..
Snowdance
We spent most of our money traveling... Just wasted the rest..
Chevy 7.4 Vortex
2000 Jamboree 23b Rear Kitchen
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MudChucker
Niverville Manitoba
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Don't go with drilled and slotted, take a look at the raybestos rotors, they have grooves in the surface so the gases can escape while the brakes are on... I'm going to be putting these rotors and a good ceramic pad on all four corners of my truck before our next trip.
2005 PILGRIM 274RL 5SS
2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLT 6.0
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Handbasket
Asheville, NC
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I had this issue on my '02 Roadtrek B on a 3500 Express van. It happened the first time I drove it down a road that I'd be driving several times a week. I started slowing slightly more and using 2nd instead of 3rd on the downhill part, controlling speed more with light throttle than heavy braking, and all was fine.
A few more rpm's won't hurt, especially if yours is the 6.0. Installing a tach would be cheaper than a brake upgrade. I suppose an OBD II reader would have this info, so maybe it's just a matter of finding somewhere readily visible to hang it.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com
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