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RE: Impossible to find please help
If there are any good size marinas nearby, they probably have a pumpout facility which could work. They generally charge a small fee to pump out .
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Bill S.
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11/15/09 09:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Damon vs. Winnebago
It is a mistake to make a buying decision on cabinet pulls, fixtures, etc. Manufacturers do this on purpose as a sales tool and to disguise inferior structural and mechanical construction.
Tell that to the folks that own Monaco's, Tiffin's or Newmar's.
In addition to workmanship, your buying decision should also consider safety and driving stability.
I didn't say that the buying decision should be made on cabinet pulls, fixtures, etc. I said "I also like the hardware like the drawer knobs, cabinet pulls, bathroom fixtures and lighting that Damon uses."
I consider the safety of all Class A DP's to be about the same because I haven't been able to find any "crash test data" on any of them. I consider the safety of all Class A DP's to be about the same because I haven't been able to find any "crash test data" on any of them. In test driving both Damon's and Winnebago's I have found no difference in the driving stability. They seem equal to me when I test vehicles that are equal in length and wheelbase.
You must notbe aware of Winnegago's well-documented inverted drop test, onto concrete. If that isn't a safety-related diffecence, then how about Winnebago's all-steel roll cage for driver/passenger compartment; all appliances and cabinets bolted to the steel frames; the steel firewall (some motorhomes use a plywood "firewall"); the automotive/truck industry standard windshield installation system, using flexible bedding sealant to bond glass on to the steel windshield frame, and there is more. Winnebago manufacturers entire motorhome wiring harnesses for each model, with each wire stamped every 6" with a unique number, and is shown on their wiring diagrams, which are free to every owner.
I am not bashing your favorite motorhome; frankly I don't too much about them; but I do know about Winnebago.
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Bill S.
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10/18/09 01:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 91 Winnebago Chieftain runs cool
If there is no petcock, you can drain the cooling system by loosening the lower hose clamp on the radiator, and twisting it off. Drain, replace T-stat, flush and fill the system, and you should be fine.
If the rear heater fittings have rusted through, see if they thread into the body of that heat exchanger. If they do, you may be able to replace them. Chances are that the whole unit will need replacing, but that rear heater was used on many model years, so it should be easy enough to find a new one, and chance it out.
A friend of mine just bought a 91 Chieftain 34RQ a few weeks ago, and it looked beautiful inside. Outside some sun damage, but that's to be expected. His is on the F53 chassis. SO far his issues were a roof sealant leak, 1 roof air problem, and generator problems from sitting unused for so long, but I think he's got it under control.
Good luck with your new rig.
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Bill S.
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10/03/09 07:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 4 down with an auto trans
None of the Toyota's are 4-down towable without a lube pump, unless they are a manual transmission. I'm pretty sure you will burn up the trans if you just hook up and go, with an automatic.
Maybe someone here with experience towing an automatic Toyota will chime in.
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Bill S.
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10/01/09 08:58pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Opps we may have screwed up
I think Will_Robinson says it all,
Plus NEVER NEVER NEVER borrow againest your home to buy a RV. put up something else if you have to.
but I would not even do that,
The bank will have you over a barrel that way and you could lose your home.
Rv values drop like a rock, everyone knows that, and to many things can happen, so you might wind up with nothing to live in,
(home or RV )
Ed. P.S. from being in real estate 35 years as builder and realtor.
Why not use some of your equity, instead of your cash? Suppose you have a home worth 500,000 (current market), have a 50k mortgage balance, and 200k in the bank. So why not re-fi with 100k cash out, and have a 150k mortgage, and keep your cash in the bank? Is that any different from someone who has a 500k home with a 150k mortgage, and is not buying a motorhome?
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Bill S.
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09/12/09 09:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Allison Trans 1st Gear on 10% Grade
Wow! You did good. Allison, too.
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Bill S.
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09/10/09 07:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: MICE !
I think those electronic repellers are a waste of money. If the rodents find food or a snugly place to nest, that isn't going to keep them out. If you don't wast to use snap traps, set some of the sticky traps around the areas where you know they have been going. They come already with bait on the trap, and they also catch spiders and other insects.
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Bill S.
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08/20/09 09:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing Toad this fall
Honda CRV's are 100% made in Japan, and really don't help help our struggling economy any. C'mon folks, get with it now or forever live with this economy.
JMHO
Not correct
I just purchased a 2009 CR-V manufacture date 07/09
final assembly point: OHIO
window sticker states that over 50% of the components are of North American origin.
There are three manufacture points for CR-V's Ohio, Mexico and Seyama, Japan.
My purchase of a CR-V is keeping workers in Ohio employed.
I was with a friend last April when he bought a 2008 CRV at Earnhart Honda in Avondale AZ. It wasmade in Japan and had Zero US parts content. The salesman was quite proud of this fact.Turned my stomach.
Normally The First year of a Honda car is made 100% in Japan (2007 CR-V was first year of body change) so if it was a 2007 model yes it was 100% Japan. West coast of US seems to get most of the Hondas from Japan or Mexico, while Eastern US gets them from Ohio.
I would have preferred A GM or Ford product (I still own GM & Ford Products and even FORD stock!) but the CR-V is the best bang for the buck that can be towed flat 4 with a Automatic 2 wheel drive.
I spend my money wisely and always TRY to buy Ameican USA products. It's getting very hard to do. Read the window stickers & door labels to see where your vhehicle is manufactured. On a Honda you can get a North American Made one if that makes you feel any better. Are the GM Ford plants still up in Mexico ? or How about you sprinter fans is that a 100% USA built and part supplied Chassis. Is your Ford F150 or Dodge Ram built from 100% USA built parts ?
Basher's, Who owns a USA made TV or Home Stereo or Computer ?
Take a look at those shoes you are wearing, and tell us where they were made. How about the tires on your car? Or the toaster in your kitchen? Let's see you go just 1 month without buying ANYTHING made in China :o
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Bill S.
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08/16/09 08:37pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Need a dry-camp spot near Tilghman Island/St Michaels, Md.
Thanks for those suggestions. I will check them out, and hopefully, have a place to park.
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Bill S.
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08/11/09 05:28pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Did Winnie drop the Vectra and Horizon for 2010?
Yes, the Ellipse and Tour now occupy their top spots. Vectra and Horizon names have been retired (for now).
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Bill S.
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08/10/09 07:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Need a dry-camp spot near Tilghman Island/St Michaels, Md.
We will be attending a (not RV) function in Tilghman Island in 2 weeks, and as will be traveling in our RV, we are looking for a place to dry-camp for Fri and Sat nites. I've searched for a CG or even just a place to dry camp, anywhere near there or St Michaels, and came up empty.
Anyone have any suggestions?
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Bill S.
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08/10/09 07:43pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: External lubrication of hydraulic jacks
HWH jack rams are not chrome, they are stainless steel. An HWH tech at the factory told me many years ago to simply keeo them clean, with soap and water. That same advice was told to me again 2 weeks ago, when I was at the factory. He also said that they should be cycled about once a month.
If you are going to wipe them down (after cleaning), with anything, I would use the same fluid, (ATF), that is in the system.
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Bill S.
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08/01/09 09:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: BOUGHT FIRST MOTOR HOME TODAY
Welcome to the family of motorhomers, and THANK YOU for your service.
I have an Adventurer on the Ford chassis, and it proved to be a reliable and enjoyable rig. There is a recall on the engine air intake, which prevents water ingestion when driving in heavy rain. That happened to me before I knew about it, and the engine just bogs down and you have to stop. Ford will fix it free, if it applies to your model year.
Seems to me there was also some kind of recall or TSB on the engine oil dipstick, so you might check on that.
We wish you may enjoyable years of motorhoming. Safe travels.
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Bill S.
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05/08/09 08:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2001 Winnebago Journey 36 Cat 330 review/input
Are service records available, and recall/repair history? There was a recall on the propane tank bracket, that if not done, should still be taken to a dealer to be completed. Being a recall, I don't beieve there will be any time limitation on Winnebago paying for it.
Try negotiating to have all the fluids and fliters replaced, as part of the deal. The air filter should be replaced every 2 years (though some will go longer), and it is a bit of a pain to do. Nice to know you are starting with all that out of the way.
There has been some problems with hydraulic hose leaks on some slideout rams. HWH had a bad batch of hoses for a while, and I don't know if that was on '01. I had one on my '02, and HWH replaced it free.
Inspect the roof/sidewall sealant, as this is something that needs to be done on a regular basis. If you push against the fiberglass roof where it meets the rain gutter at the top of the sidewall, and you see a gap between it and the sealant, it's time to pull all that loose material out, clean with alcohol or acetone, and re-seal with the proper (Manis Bond) adhesive/sealant.
Being a rear radiator engine, it (the radiator) needs to be cleaned from time-to-time. That can be done by removing the metal engine cover under the bed, and spraying a mix of Oileater/water, or Simple Green, onto the radiator, from the engine side. Also spray the rear. Let it sit a few minutes, start the engine for a minute, to have the airflow help push the cleaner throught the radiator fins, and shut it down. Then rinse the radiator with a garden hose (no pressure washer... it will bend the fins). This procedure, done twice, will clean out the oil and dirt that robs the engine of proper cooling.
Disinfect your fresh-water tank with a few cups of liquid bleach to a half-tank of water, and drive a lttle to let it slosh around. Run each of the faucets for a few minutes, to get the chlorine in the water lines. Drain the tank, and repeat with fresh water.
There are other things you will figure out as you go, but enjoy your new-to-you coach. We've had our's for 6 years, and it has proven to be a very good one.
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Bill S.
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05/03/09 09:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Engine Temps Monaco side radiator
In the past, I have used Simple Green, in a garden sprayer, to clean the radiator (from the inside as well as from the outside. It always worked pretty good. I recently decided to try a different product, called OilEater. I found it on Costco and Sams Club websites, so I ordered some (5 gal bucket, actually). I used it diluted 2 parts water to 1 part Oileater, and used the garden sprayer, as in the past. That stuff amazed me. It actually seems to do what it's name implies. It got the radiator, fan blade, and undercarriage, clean as new.
Anyways, you don't need to pay some shop to remove your radiator to clean it. It's an hour or so job for the DIY, and the results speak for themselves.
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Bill S.
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04/28/09 07:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Newbie needs help finding a radiator
.Macs Radiator has been reported to be very reasonable, and supplys much higher quality than OEM. I think they're in Washington state, but ship anywhere.
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Bill S.
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04/28/09 06:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Diesel Oil Change: Annual or Every 15,000 Miles
I bought a case of (12, I think it was), oil analysis test kits from a Cat dealer, 6 or 7 years ago, for about $16/ea at that time. The kits came with a very long oil-sampling tube, (use it once), the oil sample container jar, and a larger, postage-paid plastic mailing jar. I draw the warm oil using a high-quality vacuum pump that I bought from Amsoil, (the oil I use).
You fill out the form, put it and the oil sample jar into the mailer, and drop it in any mailbox. I just sent one in, and notice I have only one left. I imagine they cost more now.
The reports come back showing what is in your oil, if it is of any concern, and mine have always also said "Suitable for continued use". I do one analysis between changes. Inexpensive peace of mind.
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Bill S.
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04/26/09 04:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: cat 3126 no power!
What Brett says is generally true, however, some of the other statements... I don't know where people come up with this stuff.
If the chassis batterys are too low to start the engine, the "boost" switch is there to press and hold in, so you can start the engine. This is not going to hurt your ECM any more than if you 'simply' removed the dead chassis battery, and replaced it with a fresh one. The boost switch simply bridges, or "parallels" the house battery positive post to the chassis battery positive
post. Battery grounds (neg post) of both house and chassis are already connected to together.
Just holding the battery switch in for a time, to recharge, or "boost" the dead chassis batterys, will not work. Dead diesel-engine chassis batterys will not charge enough doing this, to start the engine.
If the OP's service tech asked about recent 'jump starting', he may have thought that someone may have followed an improper procedure (reverse polarity; 24v jumper batterys instead of 12V, etc), and fried the ECM.
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Bill S.
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04/19/09 09:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems
want-a-be,
I'm not sure about TST. I bought their system last year, but didn't install it until February this year. Everything seemed to work fine... until I started driving, that is. First the RF wheel sensor stopped reading on the display. I thought it had come off, but no, it was still securely attached. Drove on a bit more, and both the RR sensors stopped reading. The others continued to work fine. Except the ones on the toad. I took them back off, even before driving, as they leak if you so much as touch them. I didn't want to risk the toad to leaking sensors that are supposed to help you *prevent* a problem.
Next morning, before getting on the road again, they were all reading on the display. But within 15 minutes, the RF and both RR (dual wheel) sensors aren't displaying again. And so it goes.
on edit: I did get in contact with Dan, at TST, and had a good chat with him, and he assured me that this system is reliable, and he will make it right. So I have confidence in getting my issue resolved. He gave me some ideas to try, and if that fails, we will exchange sensors.
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Bill S.
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04/13/09 12:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: G670 replacements, Jacksonville, FL Area
Martyandpeg,
There is a Goodyear Commercial service center(Towntire)in Gainesville.
There right off I-75, easy in and out. Phone# 352-371-6209
You might get a better deal. They also sell Michelin and other brands.
I went over to Towntire, and their quote was $100 over Camping World.
I also just got a call back from the Goodyear Wingfoot dealer in Jacksonville, and his quote came in at $479 installed for each, but he also said that he needed to move the tires that day....reason; they are two years old. So, I guess if I did not ask, he would of sold me two "new" RV steer tires that were really two years old. And this is a Goodyear dealer......these guys are crooks.....
Sorry that lead didn't work out for you. When I bought mine (Baltimore Wingfoot dealer), they had to order the 6 tires in, and they were factory fresh. So it pays to ask.
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Bill S.
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04/10/09 08:58am |
Class A Motorhomes
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