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 > Your search for posts made by 'D.E.Bishop' found 598 matches.

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RE: Electric Step doesn't work

What type of steps do you have? If they are Kwikee, there is a complete set of trouble shooting instructions in the installation manual which is on line if you don't have one. The step by step instructions are very good and include all safety instructions. Personally I think the convenience of the electric steps are worth the work involved in repairing them. They are probably the simplest system on your rig to maintain and repair. There are a lot of posts in this forum regarding them, just search for Kwikee steps for endless hours of reading if you search the older posts.
D.E.Bishop 11/24/14 07:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Where did you get your Electrical knowledge?

To many pages here for my tired old mind to comprehend, so I'll just list what a lot of others have said. Elect Apprentice at 14, TM on a submarine with a stint in ET school, OJT working for City Of Los Angeles in the traffic signal field, augmented by some classes at a Community College. I still don't know much about batteries and chargers but I can repair a disk type synchronous motor or install and repair FO cables. I guess some of the more important things applicable here were learned here.
D.E.Bishop 11/24/14 07:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Class A Generator and Battery ??

Another thing that could cause those symptoms is, lack of fuel. My Bounder had a very weak in tank fuel pump and the engine would loose power after running at high speed for awhile. Could be the fuel pump on the generator can't keep up with the demand if the engine is off, with the engine running the in tank pump would be helping the generator pump. If the problem continues after replacing the batteries(if needed) it would be something to look at.
D.E.Bishop 11/24/14 09:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Trailer Plug Won't Stay In

I have to agree with donn0128, fix it or replace it. No one has suggested fixing it, so I will. Take the vehicle socket(male)and disconnect it from the vehicle and the cable, then take the cable plug(female) and disconnect it from the trailer. Now sit down at your work bench or any well lit place and plug the two parts together and try and observe where the problem is. Often it is a lousy casting or a socket or maybe a foreign object in one of the sockets in the trailer plug. There is something wrong with one of the two mating parts. If your truck came with the seven wire connector and the trailer with another brand, could be they weren't meant to mate. And yes in my 60 years working mostly in the electrical field, I have run across this problem more than once where there is no "Written Standard" like the NEC. Even in the four wire flat connectors, there is a huge difference in plug ends. I'd take both ends to NAPA or U-Haul or some company that has several makes of connectors and try and mate up one of the connectors to a new one. It may require spending some of your hard earned money but those bungies cords or what ever it is you jerry rig your connection weren't free. By the way we're talking about less than twenty dollars and in most cases less than ten.
D.E.Bishop 11/24/14 09:11am Towing
Just a handy hint re battery maintenance

The other day I noticed my negative battery cable connection on the battery terminal was showing a little verdigris and promptly removed the ground cable and cleaned it. I washed the tops of the batteries and all the terminals with a solution of water and baking soda, rinsed and dried with a low pressure high volume blower. Everything looked good but I noticed some dust I had missed and thought that I would mix up some soda and water and using a large trigger sprayer sprayed the batteries. I found a couple of spots that weren't quite clean and finished cleaning and drying. The spray in a medium stream will get into some of those ridicules corners that a paintbrush misses. As an extra benefit, the stream will also dislodge the dust and dried acid. Now I know I had acid around only one cap and on only the adjacent terminal. Gives me something to look at in the future.
D.E.Bishop 11/21/14 10:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Lug Nut Torque

I like his answer so much I'm sending 10 pesos. Thanks to all. I think the tire shop has them a little tight. I'll do as suggested and clean and apply never seize too.
D.E.Bishop 11/15/14 10:22am Tech Issues
Lug Nut Torque

All of my books are packed away in the garage while the house is being renovated and I need to remove the rear wheels on my 1989 Chevy P30 chassis. Can someone tell me what they should be torqued at on installation? TIA
D.E.Bishop 11/14/14 10:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Are RV's really selling that well?

There has to be some desperation there somewhere, the rep yesterday was willing to talk no more than 70% of MSRP on a Coachmen Class A. When I told him I had no interest in a Coachmen, is when he said he would remove our names from the interested list. When I let him know I wanted either a Winnie or a Itasca, he told me thanks for my time. Obviously I put out and over the top offer but to say it could work for a Coachmen, with a very high trade in allowance he figured he could adjust the MSRP, when I switched to Winnie/Itasca which has printed MSRP's, no talk. And his lips were moving.
D.E.Bishop 11/07/14 12:12pm General RVing Issues
Are RV's really selling that well?

My wife and I attended the Pomona Show and foolishly gave a rep our home phone. Since the show he called four times and his partner twice. We have received two letters from the Co-Sales Managers and one from a rep. We have received at least five cold calls from sales reps from that sales staff. Two days ago I received one of the cold calls and boy or boy did he talk me up even after I told him to put a "Do Not Call" note by our name. In an attempt to end the conversation I told him I might be interested in trading in our rig and buying a new one. My conditions were, I would pay no more than 70% of the MSRP and they must give me $10,500 trade in for our rig. He then offered a rig I had no interest in and I told him ,y offer is for a 2015 Itasca Sunstar 30t and there is no chance of any higher price or lower trade in. At that point he conceded he couldn't match just any deal to which I replied that was the only deal that might interest me. He finally said he would remove my name from the interested list. I think they are hungry and would probably deal up to 30% off on other makes but not Winnebago/Itasca.
D.E.Bishop 11/07/14 09:45am General RVing Issues
RE: solar power battery maintenence

Hi, For 9 years I had 30 watts of solar panels with a controller maintaining 210 amp-hours of battery bank. If you wish to equalize the bare minimum is 60 watts per 100 amp-hours of bank. With panels costing as low as 67 cents per watt, it may be cheaper to get 100 watts and a controller, rather than buying the "package" you suggest which has but 15 watts. Delray now has a solar Battery Tender, 15 watts and three step charging. Basically the same as the 120volt model but no need to plug it. I have one and it works fine if I start with charged batteries, but if not fully charged, it takes a long time to restore the charge. It seems that the solar police insist on 100watts and a controller. That's okay too but if all you want to do is keep the batteries topped off, not necessary. Look into the 15watt tender at about $98.00 on line. By the way, my storage yard is 45 miles away and I don't have power or water there, just like most National Park Campgrounds. Okay so I'm not as versed as some of you are in current pricing. Neither do I have any interest in putting anything else on the roof and we don't normally sit in one place very long so my alternator works great between sites for charging. I just know that the SP keep saying it isn't adequate for maintaining. Your reply has been the first with any real facts and the post by bpounds is the first to be agreeable that 15watts is good for maintenance. There are as he suggest several rigs in our storage yard with the HF or Coleman or other 4"X10" panels and they seem happy with the results. I thought that maybe the extra cost for the Delray panel was worth it with the built in controller instead of just diodes to stop backfeed. So thank you for your frank and outstanding response to the OP's question. Now he has a lot more information available on which to make a decision.
D.E.Bishop 11/06/14 12:46pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: solar power battery maintenence

Years ago in a far different galaxy, folks who took their batteries home used Delray's battery tender. The idea was if your battery was fully charged the battery tender would keep it charged without having to worry about boilover are overcharging. Delray now has a solar Battery Tender, 15 watts and three step charging. Basically the same as the 120volt model but no need to plug it. I have one and it works fine if I start with charged batteries, but if not fully charged, it takes a long time to restore the charge. It seems that the solar police insist on 100watts and a controller. That's okay too but if all you want to do is keep the batteries topped off, not necessary. Look into the 15watt tender at about $98.00 on line. By the way, my storage yard is 45 miles away and I don't have power or water there, just like most National Park Campgrounds.
D.E.Bishop 11/06/14 11:20am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Maritimers driving to Florida

lanert, Just roll with it, it sort of adds an amount of mystic to the East Coast "Maritime" Provinces. Enjoy your trip there and I hope the OP has a safe and Ice Free trip to the Waiting Room.
D.E.Bishop 11/05/14 09:49am Snowbirds
RE: Route from Raleigh, NC to Mesa Verde, Colorado

If you like old RVs and camping stuff, try Sisemore's Traveland in Amarillo. Out back is a fairly good sized Private RV and camping museum. If there is a tall, heavyset guy or a real Preppy looking guy wandering around, say Hi the big guy is Jack and the Preppy looking guy is Trent his son. Both are really nice and the whole staff made us feel welcome and were happy to show us around, Oh Yeah, they were also happy to sell me some much needed stuff. Gave me one of their catalogs too.
D.E.Bishop 11/04/14 10:19am Roads and Routes
RE: Dump Gloves

I use disposable latex gloves from Harbor Freight. They seldom tear. One trick is to get much larger than you need and avoid the sharp edges like a hose clamp. Works well for me. Can you give me the HF part number for latex gloves? I can only find nitrile gloves.
D.E.Bishop 11/04/14 01:01am Beginning RVing
RE: Interesting article on Yellowstone

It makes no never mind to me if they put it in, just as long as my tax dollars do not pay for it. We go there and live through no cell coverage and no WiFi or MiFi or what ever. The DW and I went to Alaska in 2000 and did not use her cell phone one single time. We used a COSTCO phone card when we wanted to call. Never had to make an emergency call or send any of our photos home immediately. Today both of us have cell phones and we do have a netbook, but we don't have to have them and our DGKs know the electronics are only on from 1/2 hour before dinner and until 9:00. Nothing on trails or visitors centers or anywhere else in a park. The TV is on 1/2 hour before dinner until dinner is served. They never complain about being without, I guess it's all in how you were raised.
D.E.Bishop 11/03/14 03:44pm Technology Corner
RE: Southwest Trip

Barbara, I don't have time to look for our logs as everything is packed so the painter can remove the acoustic ceiling and paint the interior as part of our surface remodel. I will say that you will be going right by White Sands NM, Canyon De Chill and lots of other great places, I understand time constraints even though we're retired. Any of the campgrounds in DV, JT are good to go for your rig. They are dry camping. I've got more info but one of those unforeseen requirements is calling and I have to run. I'll PM later.
D.E.Bishop 11/02/14 08:36am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Anal

Of course, but, the DW doesn't see any reason for washing the MoHo and the towed. Then again she doesn't think it's necessary to wash the car if we're going away for a weekend. I like to start of with a shower, clean skivvies and clean rigs. Just my submarine training I guess, you never knew when you would get to clean stuff on patrol.
D.E.Bishop 11/02/14 08:28am General RVing Issues
RE: Big Cities, what areas are safe?

If you are traveling through Oakland(any big city) stay on the interstate or freeway. No big thing that way. If you're going to camp in one or have to do business in one, check a campground review site or call the business you have to visit. If you are using a towed to get around, big deal, turn around and leave. You are not likely in any even to get caught up in a "GANG WAR). Just use common sense. By the way you don't have to visit or even drive surface streets in Oakland. And it's not just next door, it's across the Bay Bridge.
D.E.Bishop 10/31/14 10:58am General RVing Issues
RE: Follow Up on "New mech. seems to know his stuff"

His "severe grade" must have not been as severe as yours. But I learned something new,......this is the first I knew of a carbureted vehicle w/ an "in tank" fuel pump. I had an 84 Itaska 454 w/ only the engine pump. Many had an external rear pump, but mine never gave a problem. Good luck on the results,....you deserve it ! You're right, my grade was up to 6% and about three miles. And the mechanic has an '89 Southwind without the in tank pump which is why he said he didn't check. I guess they had to overcome the heat problem Harvard mentioned.
D.E.Bishop 10/30/14 12:58pm Tech Issues
Follow Up on "New mech. seems to know his stuff"

Well the new mechanic did a lot of stuff including a rebuild of the QuadraJet and it passed CA Smog as well as our newer SUVs. He tested it on a severe grade and it ran great. I picked it up and drove the 45 - 50 miles home and same old lack of power problems. When I took the rig to Gary, I told him it felt like it was starving out under a variety of circumstances and ask him to test both the fuel system and the ignition system. The carb needed rebuilding and the distributor bench tested perfectly which is why I didn't have pinging or misfiring when the vacuum hose collapsed as the centrifugal weights cook care of things. So now the results, ran great on surface streets but starving out on full throttle and on long grades with the rear jets open. Back to Gary. Asked if he did a fuel pressure test both on the rear pump and the engine pump. He hadn't because of the difficulty in reaching the pump ... Well he finally checked the engine mounted pump and it was leaking and so he replaced that pump. Some but insignificant improvement. Pulled the hose off the regulator and found the rear pump wasn't putting out even the 6lbs needed. Conclusion, drain the 90 gallon tank which is half full, drop the tank and replace the in tank pump. Fortunately he has a full lift and may be able to lower the tank without draining. I strongly suggested he drain the tank first but it's his life if that sucker falls... I already had the extra filters in the filter compartment so he's good to go there for a change out after running for a few miles and filtering out any stuff knocked loose during repairs. So after R&R the tank and the pump, all he has to do is test drive and change both high side filters, the carb filter and the inline filter on the genny. Cost an additional $850 for both pumps and labor. Sometimes even good mechanics don't think and assume stuff. Hoping it's done and back home on Friday as we have to start living in it part time during our interior S&B remodel project. Hopefully the final follow up on Saturday or Sunday.
D.E.Bishop 10/30/14 06:58am Tech Issues
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