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 > Your search for posts made by 'D.E.Bishop' found 466 matches.

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RE: $1300 for an inpsection?

I can't say the same for RV inspectors or their contracts but I would bet there is something similar in that field too. Not everyone is just out to take your money and useless. Any contract for inspections should list those things to be inspected and as such you do have recourse regardless of statements of non liability. It's called NRVIA I followed the link and to me it seems pretty comprehensive, I would question an inspection of some things they list, which was extensive. I personally wouldn't inspect anything regarding the chassis or component of the drive train or exhaust, belts and hoses. It even seems that they have folks available for things that you might have questions about. I know there aren't enough certified NRVIA members to assign a mentor to each inspector but someday hopefully. I'm going to see if I can find an inspector in my area for more information about disclosures and exclusions. Thank you jplante4 for the info.
D.E.Bishop 08/28/15 11:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 gasket?

Kind of off subject but is it just Norcold or all the new and improved RV refrigerators one big failure waiting to happen? My Dometic 2801 is original except for the door lock which I broke. I have none of the electronics of todays fridges and it only runs on 12VDC elect. or gas. I know that if something goes on it, parts are a premium but it's still going strong after 26 years of service. I have considered a fan for the exhaust stack but we seldom camp during the summer and if we do it's usually at the beach so the temperature differential is good and convection cooling of the exhaust is satisfactory. Just wondering.
D.E.Bishop 08/28/15 11:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: $1300 for an inpsection?

If you go to their webpage you will find that the inspection contract, with the fine print, is not there. I am sure that what the fine print says, based on looking at other inspection contracts for vehicles and houses, is that anything the inspector misses becomes your problem, not his. They do not offer any guaranty as to the accuracy or completeness of the inspection. Not saying that the inspector would not do a thorough inspection of the house portion, but the mechanical portion of the inspection , including engine, transmission, drive train, and suspension seems to be lacking. California for all it's Nanny laws does not license Home inspectors but the industry does self regulate to a degree. There is an organization for RE Inspectors called CREIA, California Real Estate Inspectors Association. The standards are very strict and E&O insurance is mandatory. No exclusion clause in CREIA contracts. There is a detailed list of items they inspect and the Errors and Omissions insurance covers those items. I can't say the same for RV inspectors or their contracts but I would bet there is something similar in that field too. Not everyone is just out to take your money and useless. Any contract for inspections should list those things to be inspected and as such you do have recourse regardless of statements of non liability.
D.E.Bishop 08/28/15 07:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: adding door deadbolt

My bounder came with a cheap imitation of a Kwikset Deadbolt lock. I changed it to a schlage when I found they were making the 1.125" drive in bolts. The bolt is longer than old POSSE deadbolts was and I had to drill the steel frame around the door. Thieves may get in with a pry bar but they are going to make a lot of noise and destroy the door entirely. I don't think a screwdriver is going to work. I have to agree with those who say that thieves who want in can break in, I just want to slow them down and hopefully get some really good 1080p videos.
D.E.Bishop 08/28/15 12:16am Tech Issues
RE: Looking At First Class A Purchase

I'll add my $1.35(upgraded for inflation) is cheaper when you add in how much more enjoyable it is to have your space, decorated in your style and with your conveniences and your bed. We have been married for over 50 years and more and more we accommodate one another. I go to bed early, she sleeps late is an example. It is hard for her to watch TV until Jimmy Kimmel is over while I sleep, I find it hard to make coffee and go on line while she sleeps past 6 o'clock. My point, a floor plan is the single most important thing to consider when shopping, I absolutely want a door to close off the bedroom so I don't wake her etc. I'm not sure about these all electric units, we like State and Federal campgrounds as well as BLM areas. These may or may not have hookups but probably not. I like a three way rig, 12VDC, 120VAC and propane. Solar can be a benefit. There are now a lot of gassers and a lot of diesel rigs in the 35 foot range for under 100K. Any larger and you "MAY" be limited in some destinations. Yellowstone for one doesn't have many 40' + towed spaces, Hi Jolly BLM area has hundreds up to how big can they make one. Rent a couple, I'm sure there are rentals near you, try en all first then buy.
D.E.Bishop 08/26/15 10:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: have you ever wondered

My cat Spike probably call me lucky, lucky to have him to care for and lucky that I fed him often enough that he didn't have to tear my hand off. Whatever it was, I was lucky enough to have him for 18 years.
D.E.Bishop 08/24/15 04:07pm RV Pet Stop
RE: where to get Suburban range part. Stove quit working

The thermocouple has nothing to do with lighting the pilot. If you can't even get it to light while holding a match in front or under it, there isn't any propane getting there. Lots of posts regarding purging the system of air in order to light.
D.E.Bishop 08/24/15 04:02pm Toy Haulers
RE: S. Calif/Inland Empire Windshield Recommendation

Call M&L Auto Glass, the number is LA but he goes all over, 323-992-5897
D.E.Bishop 08/24/15 03:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Pump Relay for 1980 to 199* P30

The fuel pump relay only pressurizes the fuel system for a few seconds, then shuts off. The fuel pump run and power is ran through the oil pressure gauge. What is the problem with the system that you feel it is the relay? Fuel pump relay Not quite accurate, read my last post here; FPR Post j-d, I'll let you know when I return home and go to the storage yard.
D.E.Bishop 08/24/15 03:44pm Tech Issues
Fuel Pump Relay for 1980 to 199* P30

I found another maker for the FPR used in 0lder P30's, it is Airtex and the part number is 1R1240. It is an exact replacement for the OEM, TRW 15528707 relay. Best part is the prices range from $10.00 t0 $21.00 through eBay. OTC sales in Simi Valley, CA @ Aims Auto Supply. Of course I found these after I bought one at $15.00 + expedited shipping. My RV is stored in Simi Valley, go figure.
D.E.Bishop 08/24/15 12:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Washing during drought

I have the whole setup. Works as advertised. A little pricey, but worth it. Sorry you got thrown in with all those prune pickers out there and thank you for your service to the rest of the country. I can't even think of a retort for that slam, how petty and juvenile. A second generation Californian.
D.E.Bishop 08/23/15 11:15pm General RVing Issues
RE: Need help with the In-Tank pump, FOUND SCHEMATIC OL

Here is the site address, actually it is the query answer page. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=1989+P30+Fuel+pump+relay+location There is also a IRV2 thread just a couple of answers lower on the list with good info.
D.E.Bishop 08/23/15 05:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Need help with the In-Tank pump, FOUND SCHEMATIC OL

This is what I know so far,a 1989 P30 has an in-tank, I do not have access to the repair manual and the OEM number. Pumps for Chevys of that vintage have an out put pressure of 12 to 30 pounds. According to the speed shop where I bought the regulator and a whole bunch of mechanics, the delivery pressure to the on the block fuel pump is 4.5 to 5psi. I have set mine as close to 4.7 as possible. I have located six or seven pumps that look like mine does(Isaw the old pump, not the entire assembly)that are for Chevy's of that era but not the specific pump and associated specifications. As far as testing the pressure before the regulator, I would only learn what the pump output pressure. Now that I have the delivered pressure set all I am concerned with is, does the carb get that pressure when I am going up hill with the pedal to the metal and the secondary's open. I found the fuel pump relay thanks to Mexicowanderer and a graphic I located by Googleing, "1989 Chevy P30 Fuel Pump Relay location" Google not Yahoo or Chrome. I removed the relay and disconnected it from it's five conductor plug and cleaned the contacts and opened the relay housing to watch the operation of the relay. According to the schematic and written description, when the ignition key is turned on, the pump will run to build up pressure in the float chamber, you then depress the throttle, "ONCE" and release. Then you turn the key to start and the power to the pump is interrupted to prevent flooding of the carb. When the engine starts, and builds up oil pressure, the relay holding voltage is supplied through the oil pressure switch. I watched my relay and it operated normally. I was able to watch the fuel pressure on the gauge. I bought 20 feet of hose to enable me to have the gauge in the cockpit when I was at the wheel. Now here is what I am guessing about but education, experience and common sense make me 85 to 95% sure I know what I am talking about. I had several things to do before I could do a test run, you have to know that all this is taking place in my storage yard and I have to be very neat and orderly and not spill anything on the asphalt. Because I needed to run the engine in my Sidekick. Wash the window of the sidekick so I could put the solar battery minder in it, clean the windshield of the MoHo and juggle three vehicle in and out of parking so as not to block any other renters parking spaces. All told it took about an hour with the engine running and the temperature gauge was at the high end of it's normal range. As I drove up to the exit gate and started out I noticed the pressure gauge was reading "ZERO". I pulled out, turned around and went back to my space, opened the doghouse removed the relay cover and the relay was no longer actuated. The relay was very hot and when I could get it up on the cover on the floor the coil read "0" ohms. I think that the coil is bad, both ends are a somewhat darker color rather than the lacquered color of a copper wire while the center of the coil looks normal. This would account for the engine running very strong when we first start off but start to starve out after about ten to twenty minutes later. Even my wife picked up on that. The answer to the question about the gauge is; I forgot the name of the manufacturer, it is American made and measures from 0 to 15 psi. It is oil filled for a couple of reasons, the most important to provide dampening of the vibration often found in race cars. It cost about $35. As I said earlier, I bought the Holley regulator when the original Holley part failed and was leaking all over my SIL's parking area. Both the regulator and the gauge were purchased from a very highly respected speed shop in Pasadena, CA by the name of Blair's Speed Shop. The Holley regulator is not a tee with a restrictor, it is a diaphragm regulator just like a propane regulator. The pressure is critical in race engines. The staff at Blair's also offered some what to do's if the relay was good including to make sure the return line was functioning. Because I have been there off and on since I was 16 they are nice to me. Thanks to j-d for the picture. We also have several resident bob cats in that area and at least two within 200 yards of our house. If I forgot to mention it earlier I have the stock Quadrajet carb. If I failed to mention anything other than the site where I got the graphic and schematics, it is because I have to Google it and wanted to get this out first. I'll post it later. Thanks to all and when I pick up the relay and do a test run I repost and tell about it. I may not get out to storage until next weekend because we're off up the coast to find some cool if possible and good calamari steaks if nothing else. Dave
D.E.Bishop 08/23/15 05:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Drinking glass holders?

We intentionally bought 6 or 7 on glasses and they fit very nicely in an old six pack beer bottle carrier, there free if you drink the beer.
D.E.Bishop 08/23/15 11:42am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Cannot find fuse box

I think Muddydogs is confused as the Damon Intruder is a Class A. There is a problem with a fuse or two and should be pretty easy to determine what is wrong. Here are two hints for helping you understand and isolate problems with your rig. First read The Twelve Volt Side of Life and second buy and learn how to use a DMM or Digital MultiMeter. Harbor Freight has a 7 function for about $5.00 when on sale and if they are close, subscribe to their ads and you will eventually find a coupon for the meter free of charge. Finding the fuse/circuit breaker panel(s) may be harder than diagnosing the problem. Typical places to look, cabinets at floor level, cabinets at eyelevel, under the bed, down at floor level under a toe kick. The dealer who sold the unit should know or if purchased from a PP try them. If you can't find it after look all over, try the Damon Owners club on Yahoo or do a search for an owners club.
D.E.Bishop 08/23/15 11:40am Tech Issues
RE: LP Detector electrical question.

Okay Trails and Tails here is my take on your electrical situation. I don't think your lights are 120VAC, they are probably 12DC and when you pull the 15 amp fuse, you lose 12 VDC to one side of you rig. Not all things you might expect to be wired directly to the house battery will be. We have an on/off switch on our detector, it is not intended to be active all the time, it was designed to be active when the propane solenoid is activated and propane if flowing into the house. When that solenoid is deactivated, there isn't any propane flowing into the house. Your detector is piggybacked onto the house light wiring. Rewiring to have it operated directly from the battery may or may not be simple but it is feasible. The only caveat is that to eliminate the parasitic draw you will have to remove the 5 amp fuse you would install when hooking directly to the battery or have an on/off switch to turn it off. Of course then you would have to remember to turn it on when using propane and off when you are done. I think if you could find someone with set of schematics for you rig you would find it was designed to run off the converter or house battery whichever is providing power.
D.E.Bishop 08/23/15 11:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Adding LED light to kitchen pantry

Mike, one of the wires to the switch is hot all the time, find that one and the ground and the pantry is on it's own. What type LED light did you use? I've been using strips at home and love them. They come in 5 meter lengths and with adhesive backing, cut in three inch sections if you want. I have an 8 foot under cabinet light with touch pad dimmer, works great.
D.E.Bishop 08/22/15 07:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Tan

With all of the other things to consider when buying an RV, if I have to color coordinate my tow vehicle with my RV, I am giving it up. It worked out coincidentally that our new TT coordinates perfectly with our old TV! It is the new standard for DW from this point forward. :S. In fact, she sees the value in coordinating our "travel ensemble" as well! ??????????????. Help me.......". Let us know how you like your new blue nylon windbreakers with cutsie nicknames embroidered on the front.
D.E.Bishop 08/22/15 06:23am General RVing Issues
RE: Tan

Can't wait for things to go full circle.... white trailers and mini-skirts! While things are going full circuit, how about bringing back Rudy Gernreich's monokini for women.
D.E.Bishop 08/22/15 06:20am General RVing Issues
Need help with the In-Tank pump, FOUND SCHEMATIC OL

I have written about the starve out problems I've been having with the 1989 Chevy naturedly aspirated 454 in our rig. I had it to a shop to repair what needed repairing so I would pass smog here in CA. I have been to four shop since it pasted smog but still won't climb hills and asked each shop to check the in-tank pump pressure on the output side of the regulator. None of the shops checked, all said it was an electrical problem. Today I bought a very good pressure gauge, 20 feet of gas hose and the fittings to install the gauge and hook up to the regulator. Zero pressure. The regulator is not the problem. There is free flow through the regulator, there just isn't any pressure. I would like to verify that there is power to the pump but don't have my factory schematics, they are in the garage along with 3/4 of our belongings due to a remodel and complete interior paint. Our kids and grandkids moved most of our stuff and it is all mixed up and I'm not sure where anything is. Does anyone have a full set of wiring schematics for a 1995 Bounder? Or can anyone tell me exactly where and what color the wires are up in the cockpit? I didn't have a full set of attachments for my DMM so I couldn't check voltages accurately at the disconnect by the tank. I'm going back out tomorrow and try again but a schematic would sure help. We are leaving Monday for a little road trip and I'm not looking forward to the motels. TIA Found not only the schematic but a description of the entire oil pressure interlock system and why pressure builds up in the fuel tank.. There is a lot of other things I figured out after reading some stuff on Google and now I know that the pump is working and that the relay interlock is bad.
D.E.Bishop 08/21/15 06:50pm Tech Issues
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