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RE: GPS units in a Class C
We used a remote antenna tucked far forward on the dash as it would go. Our Street Pilot worked just fine. Several Times I just used the internal (stub on the back) antenna and it still worked well. You should be just fine.
Happy trails.
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DaveP
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09/02/09 06:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Wife Is Hard On Coach Batteries
two thing may help get to 6 volts deep cycle batterys and some solor panels I guess I didn't under stand about ref if your running on gas and it's not working was it out of gas?
The refer still needs 12 volts to run, even on propane. It just doesn't use as much.
I guess it's a good thing that I only have a 300 watt inverter. Now I only need to figure how to keep me from killing the batteries.
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DaveP
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07/29/09 08:24pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Automatic steps sensor location
Try this before you spend any money. Lubricate the pivot points at the side of the steps. I had a very similar thing happen on my previous RV. The steps would not go all the way in, nor come all the way out. I took some lithium grease and put in on the points where the step supports pivot. Then I slid under the steps with them out all the way and lubricated the mechanism where anything turned or pivoted. I usually re-did the lubrication when I de-winterized. The steps worked perfectly after I lub'd them up.
I found the lithium grease in a spray can at the Home Depot.
Hope this solves your problem.
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DaveP
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07/10/09 08:04pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Which Class B do you drive and why?
I too, looked hard at the Rialta, but I really hate FWD vehicles and I also hate underpowered vehicles. So, a FWD, 200hp 8000 lb vehicle just wasn't something I thought I'd like to drive in the mountains. I did like the floorplan and that slideout bathroom.
We looked at Pleasureway, Roadtrek and Chanook. I had an awful time driving the Pleasureway. Perhaps it was out of alignment, but it got blown around quite a bit. That made driving it a chore. The price tag on the Chanook (spelling?) sent us in other directions. Loved the rigs, but I wasn't ready to spend around 100K for one. The Roadtrek would have been a good choice but DW HATED the bathroom setup. I didn't even drive one, but I still like them. Maybe when we want to trade the Rialta in (if we ever do) we'll look at Roadtrek. They are kind of stealthy RV's and I think my condo association would let me keep it parked here.
When we looked at the Rialta, DW checked out the bathroom first, then we took it for a ride. I found an 18 wheeler, climbed in behind and was able to keep the rig on the road with little effort. It is very much like driving a car, a really big car.
I will admit that service can be a problem. The VW dealer down the street does not have a lift that will handle it (GVWR = 7200 lbs). I can get parts at the VW dealer though. So far I only needed to buy oil filters and brake pads. Supposedly the VW dealer in Portsmouth NH can lift it. I have not needed to go there yet, I just want to be prepared. So far I've had it serviced at the local Winnebago dealer, but they are quite expensive.
It cost me $300 to get the thermocouple in the fridge replaced. I think that is a lot, but maybe I'm wrong. On the 22QD model, you have to pull out the fridge to work on it. Maybe it's just a wicked PITA.
As for power, it seems to have plenty, especially compared to my Minnie Winnie. It weighs about 7000 pounds and gets pulled around by 201 hp. My MW weighed 14000 pounds and had 305 hp.
I was never sure if the Rialta was a class B or C. I figured that the Vista was the class C and the Rialta was a B, since there was no cab overhang. But, I never really looked into it. Thanks for the feedback.
Overall, I like my Rialta. It gets 17-18 mpg and goes through toll booths at the same price a car does(kind of cool). It's no Chevy Impala SS, but it gets onto the highway quickly and will climb at about 60 MPH in 3rd gear, while the engine rolls at 4200 rpm. I usually let the tranny downshift, then I move the shifter from D to 3 to avoid repetitive shifting from 3rd to 4th and back. The engine red lines at 6500, so 42 is no big deal. I think the only thing I would have done differently would be putting a manual 5 speed transmission in it, but that's just me. I've always preferred a cluch.
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DaveP
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05/15/09 02:21pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Which Class B do you drive and why?
We owned a class C rig for about 4 years. While we loved the space, we started to realized that we don't sit still. We go places to see things and wonder around. For that reason, the class C wasn't very useful during the day, and we usually had to drag a car along.
Additionally, we also like taking day trips and don't like using public restrooms. For these 2 reasons, a class C wasn't giving us the most use for our money. There are many roads that a 7 ton vehicle can not go on. The fuel mileage wasn't practical for day trips either.
With all that in mind, we looked for a class B for many years and finally came across our Rialta. Neither of us are very tall, so the lack of interior height wasn't a problem. It only weighs 7200 pounds (GVWR), so it can go where our class C couldn't. It get much better fuel mileage, so we can afford to use it more.
We do miss the extra space we had, but we really enjoy having all of the conveniences of home, with us most of the time.
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DaveP
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05/15/09 06:01am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Minnie? or Minnie Winnie?
I would simply consider how you plan to use it. The Minnie Winnie can be used in cold climates because the holding tank are contained in hested compartments. The Minnie has exposed tanks underneath that will freeze in cold weather.
If your just using it in warmer climates than simply go with the unit that has the best floor plan.
I had a 2000 Minnie 27P and a 2001 Minnie Winnie 27P. I liked the Minnie Winnie better because it had 2 slide outs (more room) and we could both move around without being in each others way.
In the Minnie, the fridge door interferred with the bathroom door and only one person could be in the galley at a time.
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DaveP
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05/15/09 12:20am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Amps/Watts Formula
Okay, here is my 2 cents. I have a 300 watt inverter that easily runs my TV and the DVD player.
For the most part, the answers are correct, but many left out the fact that inverters are not 100% efficient. They are typically around 85% efficient. That means that the invertor needs 100 watts on the 12 volt side, to create 85 watts on the 120 v.a.c. side.
12 volt amps = (100/85) x (a.c. watts/12)
For example, let's say the TV will use 45 watts:
(100/85) x (45/12) = (1.1765) x (3.75) = 4.411875 amps of 12 volts.
Your applicances list how many watts they use. You can add that up and buy an invertor that will handle that many watts.
My application uses less than 100 watts so I just have it plugged into a 12 volt outlet.
David
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DaveP
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05/14/09 10:30pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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