| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: The mother of all delams?
In addition to bigger screws and pulling the wall back tight against the floor, I see two things to prevent a reoccurrence. 1) Above the actual compartment openings, use short steel straps with two vertical screws, one into the bottom of the floor and the other into the bottom of the wall aluminum tube. 2) At the side of each opening, there may be enough room to add an angle bracket next to the gasket that would provide additional support for the wall. Finally, the gas struts are not helping the problem, they put stress on the screws every time the doors are opened or closed and either stripped the threads or just allowed the screws to back out.
|
Dayle1
|
11/05/11 06:24pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
water system problem
Well, we have been living in the new RV for the past 8 weeks since our house burned in a wildfire. So, 8 weeks hooked to city water w/o issues. But last night in prep for a freeze, I filled the fresh water tank and disconnected the city water line. Then while watching TV we could just faintly hear the pump cycle on about every 5 to 10 min for maybe one second. I figured maybe pressure was dropping due to a weak pump seal or check valve.
When I returned to the RV this afternoon, I switched back to city water and immediately heard a continuous noise from the water pump. No leak and no loose connection. It appears a check valve or the pump seal is now allowing water to flow into the fresh water tank and then spill out the fill inlet. For the time being, I have switched back to the 12v pump to avoid wasting water, the pump is still cycling every 5 to 10 min., but now it is considerably noisier.
Anyone experience this type of problem or know what is wrong? I'm spending all my time rebuilding our house and don't have much time to chase this problem down and can't take it to the dealer either. Thanks in advance for any help.
|
Dayle1
|
11/04/11 05:59pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: RV port door size/ type
Anyone want to recommend a door height?? Is 13 ft 3 inches ok?? While there is very little difference in door price, 14 ft vs 13 ft 3 in., cost for the taller building will be significant.
Also, any door brands other than Clopay?
|
Dayle1
|
09/24/11 03:49pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: RV port door size/ type
Will you be able to line up straight with the building doorway and simply,back straight in?
I have an RV port with original plans to use a tarp on a track to cover the entrance. I dropped that idea after the port was finished. I have a sectional door and it reduced my ceiling clearance by 18".
I bought the door from Cedar Park Overhead Doors. I was very pleased with the installers. I'm a happy door customer.
Pat
Yes, my layout lets me back straight into the RV port. I want to get the building height right but don't want it too tall compared to the rest of the building. Having to rebuild everything after this month's fire.
|
Dayle1
|
09/22/11 06:34pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RV port door size/ type
I'm going to have a new RV port built and have it sized 18x46, single door since with my property, pull-thru is not an option. Anyway, seems like 14 ft. is the right door width. Could go 12 ft wide, but why?
I am undecided about height. I think I want a sectional door rather than a roll-up. Could go 14 ft high, but with the required 12 inches overhead clearance plus 8 inches for the purlins, that makes the sidewall height 15 ft 8 inches. Clopay makes these doors in 3" increments so I can get any height I want. With 2nd A/C my rig would probably be 12'-6" and I doubt I will ever get a really tall rig. So, I could probably live with 13'-3". Anyone have any experience they could share? Also, any other brands? The Clopay 14x14 weighs 362 lbs.
|
Dayle1
|
09/22/11 03:42pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: RV toilet in house?
Thanks for all the replies, the RV toilet was just a quick thought. I'll do some more research on residential toilets when I have more time.
|
Dayle1
|
09/19/11 03:56pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RV toilet in house?
Well our house burned in a fire two weeks ago and I'm beginning planning on a rebuild. Since we are gone 50% of the year, we have decided to go with a metal building with RV port. Anyway, wondering about using an RV china toilet with foot pedal rather than a standard toilet. With a lot of minerals in our well water, the standard tank flapper and float mechanism has not been very reliable over the years. Guess downside for the RV toilet is the seal and possible odor issues. Any experience or thoughts to share??
|
Dayle1
|
09/18/11 04:55pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Wrestling with this over weight thing.
If you are not over any tire rating, the loaded truck weight is less than the registered/licensed GVW (vs. manufacturer's GVW) and the loaded trailer weight is less than it's registered/licensed GVW, then you are OK legally. But the truck's warranty can easily be void and you are certainly increasing wear on the truck's driveline. Only you can decide if the time/miles overloaded will have any impact on your long term ownership and if this is the most cost effective solution.
|
Dayle1
|
09/03/11 09:53am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Puzzled over blowout
Finally, I read on a website that if you have a blowout you should change the tire on the other end of the axle as it could have sustained some type of damage as a result of the blowout. Is this a valid recommendation?
Tom Collins
It isn't the tire on the opposite side of the axle that would be in question, but the tire on the other axle that is suspect. First, it had to carry more weight at speed til you were able to stop. Second, debris from the failed tire may have damaged it. I once had a failure, put the spare on, drove another 150 miles and then with close inspection at the CG discovered hundreds of small steel spikes sticking in the adjacent tire from the steel cords of the other tire, looked like the tire had grown hair.
If you have rubber valve stems rather than steel and you don't know their age, they are certainly suspect. I've had two rubber valve stems fail over the years. One on my truck went with a bang while stopped waiting to refuel and one on my trailer while checking air pressure before a trip. If either of these had lost air while driving, they would have caused a perfectly good tire to fail. Now I use a TPMS and steel valve stems.
My TPMS also alerted me to a tread seperation problem and prevented a blowout. The one tire started loosing air pressure on the road and close inspection of the other three tires showed they were balloning with one tire actually rubbing the fender skirt.
Otherwise, I believe that many tire failures are a result of damage or abuse that happened many miles or days before. I know of one case on a triple axle unit that the owner used a ramp to change a tire with only one of the remaining two tires carrying the entire weight. Within 100 miles, that tire had a big blister on it and had to be replaced.
|
Dayle1
|
09/03/11 09:23am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Front Nosecone separating from sides
That flex may be getting worse due to frame failure where the pin box attaches to the frame. The exterior paneling under the gooseneck area needs to be dropped so the frame can be inspected and probably reinforced by a certified welder. Unless that underlying problem is fixed, the cap will continue to work loose. A shorter pin box may reduce the flex, but will not prevent further degradation of the frame, just slow the rate of degradation.
Even if you plan on getting a new fiver, trade-in or resale will be better if you get the unit fixed properly.
|
Dayle1
|
09/02/11 05:18pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: 5th wheel ride leveling with Torsion suspension
On my last unit with torsion axles, I had the same problem. Contacted the manufacturer and was able to order a lift kit, two steel tubes about 5 ft long and four steel plates for the axles to bolt to. Took it to a local shop for installation. Don't know if Forest River does the same thing. But, if not any good trailer shop can fabricate and install the same thing. Just make sure they don't weld the axles directly to the tubes, the heat can damage the rubber inside the torsion axle tube.
Also, from what I understand, you can't change the swing arm angle on an existing axle, they have to be ordered with a specific angle.
|
Dayle1
|
09/02/11 09:02am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: 1500 Megacab pulling a 5th wheel?
Also keep in mind that the Mega-Cab has the ESB Extra Short Bed to make up for the length of the cab.
Which means that an automatic sliding hitch like the Superglide is almost mandatory, which is certainly not the lightest or cheapest hitch.
|
Dayle1
|
09/02/11 08:49am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Wondering how many?
If towing more than 3 hrs, the propane is on. Especially with temps over 100 F.
|
Dayle1
|
09/01/11 08:49am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Newbie seeking advice on best Full-timing fiver. HELP! :)
Park model trailers generally will not have holding tanks since they are intended for long term stays rather than frequent traveling. They will be 8 ft wide and can be towed without a special permit. They will also use residential refrigerators and maybe bigger showers. There are basically two styles, some look like mini cabins with wood siding, etc. and some look like normal RVs with fiberglas or metal siding. Wood sided units will probably not have sldieouts, fiberglas and metal units probably will have slideouts. Also, they will be less expensive. Under $10k, maybe.
Another choice would be a small single wide mobile home. Will have bigger shower, and should have better insulation and w/d connections. Hard to find and being at least 12 ft wide, towing permit is required.
Finally, there are many 2005/2006 FEMA trailers available in the area. Very similiar to metal sided park models and all under $10k, even many under $5k. But floorplans mostly geared for famlies rather than just one or two people. These may be ok for short term use.
|
Dayle1
|
08/31/11 05:53pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
 |
RE: 2011 Sierra 3500 weight
So instead of asking the lady when you had the truck scaled if it was read correctly you took the reading for gospel, quickly drove home, posted the weight on RV.net to ask 1oo people who weren't there if it seemed right?
Thanks for adding a valid thread to the board.
Just proves we know trucks better than the scale lady knows her task. Better to get the problem resolved than continue an error. All of us can use some kind of help and that is the reason for this forum, isn't it??
|
Dayle1
|
08/31/11 05:15pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Newbie seeking advice on best Full-timing fiver. HELP! :)
The pictures look very good, but this is most likely a scam. That $4700 price is way too low. A quick search shows other 2005 Carriage Cameo units priced in the mid $20k to mid $30k range. Plus my quick search found the exact same ad, same unit, same price, same seller, on another 'for sale' site, but it listed the RV location as "Washington, DC".
If it is too good to be true, it probably is.
|
Dayle1
|
08/31/11 04:52pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Wall rot
Here is my next question, how is the rear wall of this challenger constructed near the bottom.. Is it aluminum frame or something else?
Just a guess, but in '03 probably wood studs. And normally even the rear wall sits on top of the floor. Chances are, there is linoleum under the carpet, so moisture will be trapped by the linoleum so it can't dry out and rot the wood. But it may have also protected the floor plywood from rotting.
|
Dayle1
|
08/31/11 08:52am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: 2011 Sierra 3500 weight
This morning with just over half a tank of fuel indicated on the guage, the truck weighed 8320. That sounds more like it.
If you paid for that previous weighing and they gave you a certified weight slip (which they should have), I'd take it back and ask for a refund.
|
Dayle1
|
08/31/11 08:31am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: 2011 Sierra 3500 weight
My last truck also weighed 5000 lbs. But it was a 2wd, 1500 series, SRW short bed with the 5.3L gasser. Where can I buy one of these new lite HDs? Not made out of styrofoam are they?
Or from a different prespective, how many trucks have a carrying capacity higher than their dry weight? None that I know.
|
Dayle1
|
08/30/11 05:26pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Does size really matter???
With a dry pin weight north of 3400 lbs, this is not a 3/4 ton vs. 1 ton issue. It is a SRW vs. DRW issue. Any truck needs to have tire capacity that is higher than the anticipated rear axle load. SRWs are tire limited to just over 6000 lbs with an unloaded rear axle weight of about 3000 lbs. Roughly 3000 lbs carrying capacity best case. So, even empty the rear tires will probably be overloaded by 250 lbs each. Ready for the road, they will likely be overloaded by 600 lbs each.
Besides safety concerns, exceeding the GAWR (i.e. tire rating) is the most likely way to get in legal trouble IF checked at a weight station or picky state trooper.
Swapping out for a DRW axle or adding aftermarket wheels and tires is needed to achieve sufficient margin on tire capacity. And tire capacity is what any LEO should focus on.
|
Dayle1
|
08/30/11 04:56pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
