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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Brake Buddy with a Tow Dolly
Further replies may be made here.
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LLeopold
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01/30/12 09:15am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: I am amazed at the helpful members of this forum.
Moved from Beginning RVing to obtain more qualified answers.
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LLeopold
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12/27/11 07:55am |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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RE: Question on furnace
Let's keep things on-topic, civil, and non-personal, folks. I'll only say it once. 'Nuff said.
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LLeopold
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12/21/11 05:53am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Pet owners beware!!!
Moved from Beginning RVing to a wider audience.
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LLeopold
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12/04/11 09:26am |
RV Pet Stop
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RE: Renting Class C in Canada, do I need additional insurance
Moved from Beginning RVing...
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LLeopold
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11/28/11 05:55pm |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
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RE: Best Mail Forwarding Service.
Let's keep things cool and calm, folks. First and only warning...
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LLeopold
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11/10/11 11:15am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: I started the thread about overnite at rest stops
Now that this thread has devolved, it's time to put it to rest.
http://mysite.verizon.net/res1amdv/dilbert20070226.gif
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LLeopold
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11/01/11 01:52pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: I gotta vent.
And with this...
http://mysite.verizon.net/res1amdv/gburns.jpg
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LLeopold
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10/28/11 01:09pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: First Come First Serve Campsites
Now, I'll post my own opinion on non-reservation check-ins.
If I have a defined "Home to Destination," I tend to plan the trip out in advance by using a tool such as the Good Sam Trip Planner. Now, you do have to be a Good Sam member to use the on-line tool, or a CD containing a program and travel planner can be purchased. After plugging in the my average speed and travel criteria (I use a rule-of-thumb of an average of 50 MPH regardless of the actual speed limits only because of stops and potential traffic areas, and I don't want to be stressed in transit when towing). If the distance requires more than one day, I try to get plan to be off the road around 4PM so that I have plenty of daylight left to set up and have time to make dinner and shake off the road before retiring for the night. I try to get back on the road around 7:00am and stop after an hour for breakfast, than continue on from there.
If I am on the "open road" and have no real schedule to keep, then I'll tend to be a bit more flexible. In this instance, around 2PM, I will start looking at the RV road atlas or CD-based travel planner and estimate where I will be around 4PM. I will then call ahead to one or more RV parks in that area to make a reservation. If the first one called is full, I'll call the next on the list. I've yet to have not allocate a site (sometimes due to a cancellation), although there was one time on my way to The Rally in 2007, on the final leg, when I did find that all the RV parks on route were booked. I was able to park overnight in an Indian casino parking lot, along with a number of other RVers. The price was right (free, just needed to register the truck and FW for security), but I made it a point to eat at the buffet and drop a couple of dollars in the slots as a token of my appreciation.
The bottom line is to either plan ahead, as you would in booking a hotel or motel room, or be flexible in your travel plans where you can stop earlier before the crowds come in the early evening.
Hope this helps.
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LLeopold
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10/17/11 10:27am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: First Come First Serve Campsites
Let's try to bring this thread back.
If there is interest in the topic, I suggest creating a new thread on refrigerators and provide a link to that in this thread.
Any subsequent posts off-topic will be deleted.
Thank you for your cooperation.
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LLeopold
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10/17/11 10:09am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Overnighting at rest stops?
This thread has run its course and it's time to...
http://mysite.verizon.net/res1amdv/gburns.jpg
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LLeopold
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10/04/11 09:27am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Winnibago Vectra Diesel
Moved from Beginning RVing to get qualified posts.
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LLeopold
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09/26/11 03:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Travel trailer roof - EPDM or aluminum?
Correct. There are pros and cons for aluminum or fiberglass walls so it's more a question of esthetics and personal preference than durability.
As to the roof again, you appear to have done your homework when it comes to durability. My FW's roof membrane is still in very good condition after 11 years of varied weather (though Southern California is actually milder than most climates) with maintenance. Last year was the first year that I actually had to do any real work on it and if I had paid closer attention to the seams plus applying the Liquid EPDM (see my initial post), it probably would have lasted another 5-7 years before having to be replaced entirely, bringing it within the 15-20 year range that you initially posted, when I would have replaced it regardless of its condition.
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LLeopold
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09/02/11 02:20pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Travel trailer roof - EPDM or aluminum?
Well, not to scare anyone off of an RV with an EPDM roof...
I inspected and cleaned my 11 year old Mallard FW twice a year or as needed. Part of this was a cleaning and inspection of the roof for any holes or cracks in the lap sealant and the overall condition of the membrane.
Some of you may recall the issue with the torn roof last year. Here's the thread where I repaired damage to the roof and front cap area last fall.
When I went to do my spring preparation and maintenance inspection, I found the floor in the bathroom (it is in the rear of my FW) to be spongy in spots. The linoleum was the only thing keeping my foot from going through the floor and the holding tanks underneath. It appears that water had leaked from the shower or sink as the affected area is basically under the sink and shower stall.
My plan was to remove all the appliances in the bathroom, pull up the linoleum, and put new exterior-grade plywood (not particle board) down, then cover it with new linoleum and reinstall the appliances.
I started a couple of weeks ago (other home projects took priority over the spring and summer) and while removing the appliances, I found that they were mounted from the outside (meaning that I would have to remove the outer fiberglass skin on the back, like I did on the front cap), and remove the various screws holding the appliances in place.
A couple of weekends ago, I started to remove the rear fiberglass skin. While removing the corner moulding, I found that the entire plywood sheet under the fiberglass was rotted and crumbling, not only from the back, but on the side of the trailer as well (behind the shower stall)! My stomach fell. The only way that water could get into this area was from the roof, and over a long period of time; perhaps years. Until the floor, there was no noticeable issue that I encountered.
I had my DW come out to look at it and we talked about the level of effort it would take to basically remove the back and the side of the FW to check out the damage, and of course we should look at the other side (remember we had already redone the front last fall).
I'm just afraid if I start down the repair road, I'll get into a situation like this as a project. I know that this is a worst-case scenario, but...
We decided that for an 11 year old FW that is only worth $4,000-5,000 (NADA Guides in good condition at best) simply isn't worth the effort and the cost.
So, we're figuring out what to do with it; perhaps we could sell it for salvage value to an RV repair place who could use it for parts (all the appliances work and are in excellent condition); but I wouldn't trust it from a structural perspective at this point. We're looking for ideas.
A lot of memories with this RV. Sigh.
My takeaway with *any* rubber roof is similar to this.
When I purchase my next RV, one of the very first things I intend to do is to thoroughly check the roof, especially where there are any openings that are covered by lap sealant and am considering putting Eternabond tape on top of the sealant as additional insurance.
I would suggest doing something similar whether EPDM, TPO, fiberglass, or aluminum roof (make sure that the seams are really, truly sealed).
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LLeopold
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09/02/11 10:06am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Camping stove question
Let's keep the posts civil, campers.
Thank you for your cooperation.
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LLeopold
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08/10/11 12:34am |
Tent Camping
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RE: camping world rip off
Conclusions may be drawn from the posts. This is not a Camping World issue, but a UPS shipping charge issue. If the complaint is that the CW web site does not properly calculate shipping charges, that is a separate matter from the original post and should be addressed accordingly.
So before this becomes a...
http://mysite.verizon.net/res1amdv/Dead_Horse.GIF
I'll close this thread.
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LLeopold
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08/05/11 10:08am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Where can I post RV items for sale?
I edited the original post as it was basic advertising. Rather then delete the thread entirely, I edited it to be a generic request for information. Remember to read the Forum Rules before posting to make sure that you comply with what you agreed to when signing up.
Thank you for your cooperation.
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LLeopold
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08/02/11 04:19pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: What to do with no sewer hookup
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the following (though the first was mentioned):
* Take Navy showers, turn water on, rinse down, turn water off, soap up, turn water on, then rinse again and turn water off. Also, take the showers every second or third day. Take sponge baths to clean up on the other days.
* Use the "three-pot method" for washing, rinsing, and sanitizing dishes/bottles. This uses three wash basins, though when only my wife and I are out, we can do this with two, since the only items that need to be washed are the cooking utensils (we use paper plates, cups, and plastic ware for eating).
Here is a breakdown of the three-pot method. The key is toward the end. Watch for it.
Using a paper towel, thoroughly wipe any food residue off of the plates. You want as little food as possible to be in the tub when washing. One paper towel is good for wiping several plates.
The first basin contains hot (not scalding) soapy water. The second contains (again hot, but not scalding) rinse water with a small amount (tablespoon) of bleach. The third contains boiling water.
Start with the cleanest dishes first, leaving the dirtiest dishes, usually the pots and pans and mixing bowls, for last.
The first dishes to be washed will be placed in the first basin with the soapy water and dishcloth or sponge, just like you do in a sink.
After washing, the dishes come out of the first basin and move them to the second where you agitate a little to rinse off the soap. Leave them in the second basin for the time being. The bleach will also sanitize the dishes and bottles.
Move the dishes get moved from the rinsing basin to the third basin. Be careful when you put the dishes in so you don't splash the hot water on yourself!
Let the dishes sit a few minutes in the boiling water then remove them. You may want to use tongs to help remove them.
Spread some paper towels, or use a portable dish drainer if you like, and let them drip dry upside down (we spread out paper towels for this which we reuse all weekend).
Here's the key...
Finally, dump all three basins into the toilet which will dump to the black water tank.
And that is it! Now in writing this, it sounds like a complicated procedure, partly because I really broke down the steps into baby steps to make sure I was explaining it well.
Between these two items, you should find that your limit will now be your fresh water supply and not the capacity of your grey or black water tanks.
I've been able to go five days and nights before having to dump.
Hope this helps.
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LLeopold
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08/01/11 10:10am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: TORQUE WHEELS
Prior to each trip, then every couple of days if doing extensive traveling (several hundred miles). Just one of my travel checklist items along with checking the tire pressure, oil level, windshield washer fluid, radiator fluid, etc.
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LLeopold
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07/16/11 11:05am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Newby question. Our first travel trailer
Further replies may be made here.
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LLeopold
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07/08/11 06:29pm |
Beginning RVing
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