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RE: Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*
Looks great.
I have never had a problem with the stock saddles. Well over 150,000 miles. I can see no way the TC can come off, and the lift is secured to the TC a lot better than camper tiedowns.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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05/18/12 02:12pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*
Looking good. I appreciate your effort.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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05/07/12 03:33pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*
I do not remember the particulars, but I remember something about the tie-down equipment not being included in the maximum with in California. Considering the Stable Lift ties the TC on the truck. It could be exempt when determining the width. Might be worth looking into, my memory is not what it used to be.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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05/03/12 02:56pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*
It is not your like or dislike of the Stablelift that suggest your post is a troll, it is your statements, and/or the way they are worded.
I see you started a thread on your Stablift install. It would appear you had some difficulties. Could be that has had a serious impact on your overall thoughts of the Stablelift. Some things are not for everyone.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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05/01/12 10:53am |
Truck Campers
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RE: My Stablelift experience
Like many things, some folks should hire work done. I personally installed my lift, with no help. It required 14 man hours, working alone. Hard for me to imagine 48 man hours. I had to R&R my Stove/oven, Furnace, cabinet drawers, and sink. No surprises there. The instructions could have been better, but I only had one question on them, and a phone call to Stablelift answered the question.
There are a few things I would have designed differently on the lift, but they are unique to my Bigfoot. Each TC is a little different. I added a wire remote to my lift. The standard toggles are OK, but the remote is a lot better for me.
It is unfortunate that anyone has problems installing something, but Stablelift offers that service. I have had no problems with their customer service, before I bought the lift, when I installed it or after. I have only called them 3 or 4 times after I bought the lift, so maybe it was just timing. They are a small operation.
I have had my lift for over 6 or 7 years, and continue to be very happy with it. It is not often I unload my TC, but I do use the lift to level the TC. I do not do serious off road. I cannot imagine anyone thinking any jack system on a TC can do everything they can imagine. Each has it's advantage. I do not recall reading about a TC that fell on the ground, if it had a Stablelift.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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05/01/12 10:38am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*
FishPOET, I read your post to be that you personally do not like the Stablelift, and are reading into what has been posted. I paid a lot for my truck and TC, but have modified them both, to improve (my opinion) what was manufactured. My bet is that you too have done the same. To change something to suit your personal preference does not mean it is not a good product.
If you have a serious question on my post I would be glad to post an explanation. If you are just trolling, I have nothing to say. I sure hope I read your post wrong, if I have please accept my apology.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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05/01/12 09:48am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*
I too think the 3 screw stabilizers that come with the lift were are too flexible. I have wanted to made a new set ever since the first time I used them, but I never have. I guess they are not too bad.
I considered the plates you drive over also, but I have never did those either. Never really had the need.
With bigfootford's help, I did make a wire remote for mine. I have never used the factory toggles since I made the remote.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/30/12 08:50am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Sigh... Truck Camper Damaged in Shipping!
AkJason, I really respect your not having a knee jerk reaction, and approaching the problem with thought. Most folks would panic, and threaten to sue everyone that came in contact with the TC. It is a real challenge to get this type problem solved, and especially difficult if focused on suing someone. It appears you are making the best out of a bad situation.
FreeLanceing's post has merit, and I am sure you have/are considering it. With a cool head, I am sure you will make the right decision. Personally, I would make every effort to leave the lawyers out of it, and only bring one in as a last resort.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/28/12 09:23am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*
... They did away with the large diagonal brace.My Stable-Lift does not have the diagonal brace. I have considered installing one. I use my lift to level my TC with the TC still on the truck. It does a great job other than a bit of side to side movement. When I take the TC off the truck, and use the three stabilizers, the TC is exceptionally stable. Without the stabilizers, the TC moves side to side more than I would like.
I have had my lift for over seven years, and did my own install. The lack of the diagonal brace is not a major issue, but I think it would make a good product even better.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/27/12 10:25am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Honda generator and A/C
I realize that not all A/C's of a given size do not use the same amps. I do think that the amps they use is in their literature. When I purchased my A/C, I searched based on the output of my Honda 2000. Looking at the information above it is obvious to me that my Honda would not run the Model 13.5, Mach 3 P.S. (High Efficiency) is close to maximum amps, with the Mach 1 P.S. (High Efficiency) OK, but the Model 9.0 definitely the best choice.
The Mach 3 P.S. (High Efficiency) (13,500 BTU) at 10.5 amps, could be OK with the Honda 2000. The Model 13.5 (14,000 BTU) at 14.45 amps would not be OK. These two A/C's demonstrate why some 13,500 BTU A/C's would work with the Honda 2000, and others will not.
Keep in mind, the Honda 2000 output of 13.3 amps is continuous, the maximum of 16.6 amps is not continuous. Higher altitudes will lower the output of the Honda, as I understand.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/26/12 10:54am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Honda generator and A/C
I think a Polar Cub A/C is cheaper than a second Honda 2000. I think a Polar Cub A/C is cheaper than a 3000 plus generator, and you do not have to wrestle with the weight of the generator. My point is, buy a new A/C, not a new generator.
The addition of a second generator, or a bigger one, creates issues you have to deal with. Replacing your existing A/C that is too big for your generator and your TC makes more sense to me.
My Honda 2000 has ran my Polar Cub every time I start both of them. I am not sure of the greatest altitude I have ran it, but definately ran it at 7200 feet, with the factory jet. I run the Honda in the ECO mode, and do not turn the Iota charger off.
The Honda 2000 output is 13.3 amps, max. 16.6 amps.
The prices and information below are from 2004,so probably only good for an idea of whats available. Labor to change should be about one hour. Note the amp draw.
In comparing features and prices below, it appears to me, that the biggest bang for the buck would be the Mach 1 P.S. (High Efficiency), at $573. If you think you need that much capacity. I think the Polar Cum 9200 is a better choice. The Mach Series is 3-3/8 inches higher in height than the Polar Cub.
Coleman - Mach Series
Mach 1 P.S. (High Efficiency)
11,000 BTU cooling capacity
95 lbs. installed
9.6 amps - cooling
310 CFM air flow
Non-Ducted | Ceiling Controls | Cool
$573 TOTAL
includes $50 Residential Tailgate Delivery
Mach 3 P.S. (High Efficiency)
13,500 BTU cooling capacity
95 lbs. installed
Uses 30% less power
10.5 amps - cooling
310 CFM air flow – high speed
Non-Ducted | Ceiling Controls | Cool
$579 TOTAL
includes $50 Residential Tailgate Delivery
Coleman - Polar Series (3 3/8 inchs lower in height than Mach Series)
Model 9.0
9,200 BTU cooling capacity
100 lbs. installed
8.0 amps - cooling
200 CFM air flow
$521 TOTAL
includes $50 Residential Tailgate Delivery
Model 13.5
14,000 BTU cooling cap
104 lbs. installed
14.45 amps - cooling
319 CFM air flow
$676 TOTAL
includes $50 Residential Tailgate Delivery
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/25/12 11:14am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Adding plate to rear axle for jack?
I always put a piece of 1/2 to 1-inch plywood between the jack and metal of the axle. I always position the jack under or beside the u-bolts or spring pad. I see no need welding any additional pads to the jack or axle. I would use the jack with the TC loaded, but prefer not to. I use a 30-ton Jack.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/22/12 09:40am |
Truck Campers
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RE: led lights bulbs
You may get some ideas from this discussion; More LED lights (long post with lots of pictures)
I found the LED bulbs to be too pricy. I changed all of my bulbs to the board type, similar to this one; 21 Warm White LED Upgrade - Note the 12-30 VDC
I found the boards direct all of the light outward.
This is another good choice; 30 LED Light Panel Module Festoon Wedge Bayonet Bases
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/20/12 11:32am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Happijac rust! (pics)
silverbullet02, that was my point. I think of it the same as dry rot. Pretty outside, rotten on the inside.
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Reddog1
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04/18/12 09:04pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: How much can I tow with this?
I too think it is too thin of a wall thickness. Personally, I would not use it for towing a trailer. I also think maybe you have it upside down on your truck. I think the bends are for more clearance in and out of driveways, and also to allow it to be pinned to you TC bumper. I would not connect any hitch extension to a TC bumper.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/18/12 07:05pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: newbie battery questions
I agree mkirsch. Some people are that wasteful, but with their previous experience, I doubt they will be.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/18/12 01:12pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: newbie battery questions
Does a 3-way fridge use much electric when running on propane? Time to read up on Dometics I guess!Yes and no. It depends on the model.
My Dometic (sp) RM 2601 (3-way, manual) does not use any electric when on propane. It only uses the 12-volts to light the pilot. If the pilot goes out, it will relight it.
If you have an automatic 3-way, it will have to have 12-volts to power the board.
If I had a choice, I would go with the 3-way manual. I have enough energy and I am smart enough to turn a know to select gas-12v-120v. I can also push and hold a button in to initially light the pilot.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/18/12 12:23pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: newbie battery questions
We're looking at a very basic camper (something like a Northstar with no frills). Our RV experience is limited to a vintage trailer with very low battery needs.You have an advantage with your previous experience. If you camp with the same attitude, your battery needs will not be much greater.
These modern systems apparently have all sorts of electric things like CO detectors and water pumps and even lights! There are several ways to deal with this. The CO detector, Smoke Alarms, may or may not be connected to the battery. It will depend on the TC.
Water pumps really are not battery hogs due to the short time they operate.
The refrigerator will have a parasitic load, if it has a computer board in it. That will depend on the fridge. You can run most fridges on propane, and if ran on 12-volts, they will be a battery hog.
The furnace is also a very big battery hog. You can install a Wave3 which is propane only.
Lights can be changed over to LEDs. I have no less than nine lights in my TC. I changed all to LEDs. With every light on (LED), I use less battery than one regular light.
We don't expect to use hookups and since I don't know what kind of draw all these newfangled devices pull, I'm wondering if I will need an extra battery or solar power to keep up. I do not think anyone can answer that question, there are too many variables. For the past seven years, I have had one 100 AH AGM battery. I do not charge from my truck, and have no interest in doing so. I never need hookups, even before I installed solar. I did run my Honda 2000 or shore power every four days, to charge my battery. This did require a three-stage battery charger. That included using my laptop and watching TV. After I installed 130-watts of solar, I only use my Honda or shore power to use my microwave or A/C.
Are TCs usually set up to trickle charge the TC battery from the TV while driving? Is it enough?You can, but it is the least efficient method in my opinion. The exception would be if you are constantly on the road. Another exception is with special charging equipment, then it is still questionable. As your truck is equipped from the factory, I still say no, not enough.
My suggestion is to purchase a Trimetric, or similar battery monitor, after you purchase your TC. You may consider purchasing a Honda 2000 also. The Trimetric will monitor your battery usage, overall and by individual appliance. It will allow you to determine if you want to change an appliance or change the way you use it. It will not take long for you to decide if you need more batteries or solar. I really think the Trimetric is the single most important step. Without it, you will simply be guessing. Try covering your fuel gauge while driving, and you will see what I mean.
I tried to simplify my suggestions, and each one could have more depth. As I previously said, your previous experience puts you at an advantage in your battery needs.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/18/12 12:11pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: TC folks need some info
I would carry the extra fluid, and continue the trip. Adding another 20 miles to a tow bill is no big thing, should that be worst case. You are too close to your destination, and your reservations.
My wife, two granddaughters (7 & 11), and I spent three days behind a transmission shop on one vacation. We went bike riding. After the new tranny, we continued on vacation.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/18/12 11:16am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Happijac rust! (pics)
I would be concerned with the rust I could not see, especially on the welds. If you see rust in front of the weld, do you not think there is rust under the Angle on the part of the weld you cannot see? Usually it is just a cosmetic issue, but not always. Without disassemble, I don't know how you could remove the rust you cannot see. I do not have Happy Jacks. If new, or no rust, I would consider a little calk on that edge and top. I would leave the bottom open.
I have very limited knowledge on powder coat, but from what I understand it is a good product. I think the problems come in if the metal is not prepared properly, before coating. I have seen many people paint over rust. The rust is still there getting worse.
Wayne
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Reddog1
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04/18/12 10:30am |
Truck Campers
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