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RE: Allegro Bus - tiffin question
Unlike many who post to this forum, ( defend only what you have bought--run down the rest ) I will say that from everything I have heard & seen, a Tiffin built product is one of the best for the money. While most of the other manufacturers have shut down, they remain in business. That alone must be indicitive of something.
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WTD44
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08/25/09 03:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help, one jack is stuck down
One way that has worked for me is to air up the coach fully, dig out enough ender the jack to get a 2 X 4 under it, let some air out until the jack goes up a bit, air up again and put a second 2 X 4 under it. If you do this enough times you can get the jack all the way up but it is a pain the arse. IF it goes up, wire it up with a used coat hanger to insure it doesn't creep down while you are driving.
I would suspose that if you have a stuck relay, this won't work, but it is worth a try.
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WTD44
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08/25/09 02:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How to get access to the 2nd track on kitchen slide?
That is a good question and I have been thinking about the same thing on my curb side front slide. I will be looking for an answer
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WTD44
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08/25/09 02:43pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Right Rear Tire Overheated
I doubt if you could get a tire really hot in just 20 miles unless it was almost flat---and than it would not be able to get up to 100 ++ Look for brakes dragging or a bad bearing
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WTD44
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08/25/09 02:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Weight, rolling resistance, windage and MPG
I cannot agree that using cruse control will always give you better mileage. If you are crossing Texas, flat as a pancake, yep it might, but in most realistic driving you will have slight hills, overpass' and in some cases bigger hills. If I set the cruse control on 62 (where I get 6 th gear) it will cause downshifts just to maintain speed over a slight incline. I believe that I can get better mileage by just holding the trottle constant, perhaps slowing down one or 2 MPG, and than picking up the speed on the downhill side.
I do know that the higher the speed the faster you burn off the fuel. In Kallyfornia, we can't do much more than 60 when towing and I get close to 8 MPG. In Nevada-Utah-Wyoming where the speed limit is 70 I get 7 MPG. Both are just fine with me because at the end of the 400 mile day, going 70 MPH costs me just $20 more for fuel and I get my first beer an hour earlier. It's All Good.
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WTD44
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08/13/09 10:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Black and Gray tank fluid distribution
My tanks are more verticle than horizontal. (when without sewer) if my grey water is full and my black water is 1/3 or so, I put a cap on the outlet, pull the grey water, THAN pull the black water, and viola, I have two 1/2 full tanks. As soon as it stops transferring, I close the balck valve FIRST, and than the grey. I get no black water in the outlet tube . Helps when grey useage greatly exceeds black.
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WTD44
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08/13/09 09:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is the extra cost of a FRED worth it?
IMHO,
Why do you suspose so many peple who tow trailers buy diesels? Much beter power, somewhat better fuel economy, quieter, and you will get back much of your additional cost when you sell it.
If you once drive a diesel, you will not go back to a gas powered "anything" that needs lots of torque/power
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WTD44
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07/24/09 11:46am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Monoco coach
Somewhat off subject, but I was in Coberg yesterday and the employee parking lot was about 1/3 full. The folks at Cummins told me that the line was running, but very slowly.
Personally, I hope they stay with Cummins power, much better aftermakret service
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WTD44
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07/23/09 05:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: best insulated class A for winter living?
I can't tell you what to buy, but I CAN tell you that our H.R. Scepter is one of the worst for keeping the heat out or the cold in. I would give it a poor rating in this regard. Besides poor insulation, we have the huge curb side windows which contribute to the problem
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WTD44
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07/23/09 05:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake system on the toad
If I manufactured toad brake systems, I think I would feel the same way US Gear does. I wonder if any one has done a study of brake component life on toads both with and without supplemental systems. I would bet on greatly reduced brake pad life on toads helping stop a 30,000 # moho.
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WTD44
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07/17/09 09:21pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: RV - SANI-CON question
I have a Sani-Con system on my MoHo and rarely use it for all the reasons listed below. I have never had a problem with a 3 inch sewer hose that I couldn't solve by just throwing it away and buying a new one. PLUS it drains the tank (40 gals.) in about 3 minutes with great flushing action with keeps the tank cleaner. I also found that the grey water drain feature is subject to frequent plugging due to debris from just washing dishes. Since Monaco likes to make things like water and sewer pumps in very inaccesable locations, it isn't worth the time it takes to keep these gadjets working correctly.
AND, it only takes one time with a stuck pump and three feet of black water in the feed hose to cure you of a need for a Sani-Con system.
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WTD44
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07/17/09 09:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Age and highway speeds??
65
I like both the interstates and the secondarys.
Travel speedlimts + 5 (but under 70) on interstates and the speed limit on the secondary's, all assuming decent weather and day light.
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WTD44
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07/17/09 09:00pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Supplemental Brake... Necessity or Preference
It seems to me that one can't just say you SHOULD have supplimental brakes without some discussion of the facts. If you have a short wheelbase class C with vacumn brakes and want to tow a 4000 + pound toad, by all means YES, you absolutly do need them.
On the other hand, if you have a Class A with a 10,000 lb hitch and with toad weight included you are under your Class A's GVWR (Not GCWV) than I doubt if you need a system.
Certainly, an assesment of driving style and skill should also come into the discussion. IF you run fast, in the hills, and want to always be first up (and down) the hill, no matter what you are drving and towing, you probably should get yourself all the stopping power you can. On the other hand, if you have lots of driving experience and are willing to take it easy, have lots of brakes, a light toad, IMHO you will be OK 99 % of the time. Sure, you may get caught in a bad situation, but that can happen lots of ways besides stoping fast, none of which you can control. There are many ways to crash, most of them beyond your control. If you can't take some risk, you need to think about staying home.
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WTD44
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07/17/09 08:36pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Brake system on the toad
IMO, anyone who has a toad and does not have a braking system is an accident waiting to happen.... If it is a state law (where ever your home state is), there should be mandatory inspections, during registration, to insure you are abiding.
Ron
While I can agree with your statement that every one towing should have a braking system, I certainly cannot agree that everyone who does not have a braking system is "an accident waiting to happen" What statistics do you have that shows this to be a fact? I have been towing "stuff" for almost 50 years, and a majority of the time never had brakes on the towed vehicle. (They wern't invented yet")
As far as the argument that you need them "in case the toad breaks loose---give me a break!! This is more rare than getting hit by lighting!! Everyone has a certain tolerance for risk. If you have a low tolerance, by all means get a toad braking system. However, that assumes you never take any risk , in other areas, while driving. AND, it certainly doesn't guarantee that you will always be able to stop in time.
IMHO, I am far less likly to have an accident (without toad brakes) than 50 % of the people driving big motorhomes. Many of them have no idea of what the H/// they are doing.
Let the fun begain
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WTD44
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07/17/09 06:23pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: What gear at Highway speeds?
you should have two numbers. The left one is the top gear selected and the right one is the actual gear you are in. I have never had or seen any thing different in a Allison equipped coach. My 01 Endeavor shifted into 6 th at 62 and my 07 Scepter shifts into 6th at about 59-60. I believe, but I can not prove it, is that you get the best mileage at the lowest speed you can maintain in 6 th gear. (8MPG in my case) But try that on I-80 between Reno and Chyanne Wy. BORING! I make this trip twice a year and run jut below 70 and always aqverage 7.3--7.6 MPG depending on wind. Costs a few mure bucks for fuel but cuts about 5 hours off the trip compared to 60 MPH
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WTD44
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07/17/09 06:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Goodyear Tire states Tire Age does not matter
I think the tire date junkies should form a club! Then you could all have get togethers and cookouts and have contests to see who's tire date code is the newest!
Just let the rest of us know where and when so we won't show up and have you call the tire code police on us!
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THEY HAVE---and they have recently merged with the weight club and formed a joint task force called "weigh all four corners--check tire date codes, carfully adjust time pressure every morning, and every change in altitude,and brag about getting 10 MPG at 70 MPH towing a Hummer. They have a barbeque every year in Downtown Pegosa Springs, Co. where the most popular activity is coming down the "big hill" without the use of brakes.
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WTD44
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07/15/09 07:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Newbi here, hello! Not a happy camper today..
I AM ASHAMED THAT NO ONE HAS BROUGHT UP:
1. Tire presure
2. Weigh all 4 corners
3. Inferrior muffler bearings
4. M.P.G.
All of these things are important for the newbee to know
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WTD44
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07/13/09 08:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Springvalle Utah, BaySide RV Park
Well, here is another park that advertises things they do't have. They advertised 16 TV stations and you got three, and they HARDLY CAME IN. The WiFi service was so'o weak tht you had to go up to the office and sit outside on a bench to get anything and than it was SLOW. I will say they had the nicest restrooms/showers I have seen in a long itme.
Cost: $38 BUCKS , HIGHEST WE PAID IN 28 DAYS ON THE ROAD.(CA.NV.WY.UT.OR.WA)
Avoid if possible!Y
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WTD44
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07/13/09 08:00pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: A/C with generator or engine
A $12. shower curtain on a $8.00 rod mounted right behind the drivers S pax seat allows us to use just the dash air. About 1/2 hour before we pull in for the night, we run the genset and both AC's to pre-cool the whole coach. That being said, the insulation between the engine room and the rear closet/bedroom is so inferrior that it is almost a joke. Typical Monaco ""save a buck here and there job. Hope IH does better
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WTD44
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07/13/09 07:34pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Rock Springs , Wyo.
I generally don't bother to critque places, but the Old KOA in Rock Springs is a total RIP OFF. We stopped there because it is the most likly place to stop between Nev. and Colorado. It is a dirt lot, but advertiises a pool and free wireless. Well, the reason I am upet abut this place is they charged me over $40.00 with a discount and the POOL WAS CLOSED (it was 90 ' ) and the wireless didn't work. Basically they advertise a lot but give you little besides a dirt lot and hookups. Wal-Mart would have been a better choice!
AVOID IF POSSIBLE...Rawlins is abut an hour east and has many more choices---but this whole area is the pits if you like a nice RV park..
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WTD44
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07/02/09 09:52am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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