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RE: Any ideas to improve gas mileage
On the freeway, go as slow as you can without dangerously impeding traffic. Don't try to maintain speed up hills, let it slow a bit going the small hills.
Off the freeway, go light on the accelerator - no rabbit starts. Try and maintain a constant speed where you can. 40 MPH should be close to your most efficient speed - choose routes where you can do 40 MPH with minimal stop lights. Look ahead and manage your speed to avoid stopping at lights when you can.
Keep tires aired up at proper tire pressure for the weight they are bearing. Don't stack up extra items on the roof (extra wind resistance). Install Airtabs (might help, won't hurt, but probably too small a gain to be measurable).
Managing how much accelerator you use has the largest effect on gas mileage by far.
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Westronics
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05/02/12 11:38pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Recommdation of C 23 - 25 foot with 12+ mpg
ENOUGH.
I've deleted some and edited some. Move on and get back to helping the original poster.
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Westronics
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04/16/12 07:30pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Recommendations for c 23 - 24 foot mpg 12?
Duplicate thread. Locked. See http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25970564.cfm
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Westronics
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04/15/12 11:56pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Comparison
Right now, I am experimenting with industrial NiMh batteries for a better price / performance / weight / form factor deal.
Lithium is not there.
Let us know how it goes. An important consideration will be when the batteries will no longer take full charge, but it could be years before we';ll know that for sure.
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Westronics
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04/11/12 02:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Battery Comparison
...If anyone is really interest in high tech battery technology, there are much better solutions out there than lead acid.
Of course there are. It's all about price compared to performance (both in terms of discharge/recharge cycle and in terms of amp-hours available).
The current leader in basic price for performance for normal MH deep cycle use seems to be the good ol' flooded deep cell.
Of course this is debatable, still, that's what my personal research shows. That is why I now have two 6-volt Trojan T105RE batteries. I keep them hooked up to a "smart" charger and expect them to last for many years.
It might be that we all all soon be buying lithium batteries or some other technology. I would not be at all surprised.
BTW, before it starts, I do not argue with the fact that AGM is a better technology. It's all about price vs. performance.
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Westronics
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04/11/12 09:49am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: No Power To Outlet
If one TV works and one does not,then it can only be one of:
1. User error of some kind - probably in settings on the TV.
2. The TV is malfunctioning, but since it works on cable, that seems unlikely.
Is the TV set to cable input? I think you should still get something anyway, but maybe not. All indicators are that the issue is not anywhere on the RV side. In the TV menu there should be a setting to switch between antenna input and cable input.
Good luck! Such problems are very frustrating.
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Westronics
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04/02/12 01:06am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: non-existent wheelbase on E-350?
Check the driver's door sticker. Those should be the correct numbers.
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Westronics
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03/12/12 12:28am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Just starting Class C Questions
This probably has a rubber (EPDM) roof - the most common type.
The floor plan is quite similar to ours. and we love it. Good luck and good RV-ing!
When we were buying in 2003, this one made our short list.
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Westronics
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03/11/12 08:53pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Roof Replacement Cost
More like "because" it's an '03 Jayco. They used an odd roof material for awhile.
They used TPO, a generally better material than the more common and cheaper rubber (EPDM) with a life of at least 12 years. Don't replace it unless you see it really replacing which, in Florida sun, is possible, I suppose..
Incidentally, the current 2012 brochure indicates they've gone to a fiberglass roof. Even better.
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Westronics
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03/11/12 08:44pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: non-existent wheelbase on E-350?
Sounds like the lengthened the wheelbase - pretty standard practice. This does not change any of the vehicle or axle weight ratings.
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Westronics
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03/11/12 08:34pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: A good tow dinghy
I don't know what it takes to do this or how expensive it is, but my understanding is that vehicles with automatic transmissions can be fitted with some sort of disconnect device that lets you tow them.
Just another option...
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Westronics
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02/28/12 10:42pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 99 Shasta Wiring Diagram
If it helps at all, sometimes the rear lights run off the trailer wiring, which would be a different fuse.
In my signature you can find the Ford motor home customer assistance number. Call it - they will help you. They have been extremely helpful the few times I called.
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Westronics
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02/28/12 10:36pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Any experience with Wheel Masters?
I went with Tireman solid valve stems. More expensive than the extensions, I am certain, but well worth it. Now that I have them, I would not even consider extensions. They are truly amazing - not only is it amazingly easy to check tire pressures (just a few seconds), but I loose no pressure at all through the stems. I can go months without losing any tire pressure at all.
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Westronics
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02/28/12 10:33pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Tire chains for Class C
I use Dually chains - though I've only had to actually use them once. I think it is both better and easier than using chains on just the outside tire.
I found that clearance was not an issue, though they did catch on and ruin a mud flap - next time, I will tie the mud flap back so that cannot happen.
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Westronics
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01/29/12 11:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Freedom elite 21c (gas) to 23S (deisel)
Yes, you will get much better fuel efficiency. But at what cost?
You will not really get any better acceleration going up hill, though you will get up the hill using less fuel.
It's worth noting that Diesel fuel is now at a 32% premium over regular gas (3.61 vs. 2.73, best UTAH price today). It would likely be a net savings per mile driven, counting fuel efficiency and fuel prices only.
Only you can decide if it is worth it, but I doubt you will find any performance improvement at all except for fuel efficiency.
Good luck with your decision!
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Westronics
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01/23/12 12:04am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Help Me Remove Cabover Window...
I've disabled all five of my cabover's clearance lights because I covered each hole entirely with Eternabond. I put the lights back in their places so in the daylight no one can tell that each hole has been thoroughly blocked - with not even wires from the lights any longer going into/through each opening. We rarely drive at night and if we do, non-working clearance lights, IMHO, serve no practical purpose - safety or otherwise - in a motorhome. They're forward facing holes just crying out to leak when at times on the highway they're exposed to 55-MPH-on-up horizontal/torrential rainwater.
I cannot let this one go by without comment. Whether or not you agree with it, the clearance light are required by law. Manufacturers do not put them in by choice.
Identification lamps
From Wikipedia:
In North America, vehicles over 2,032 mm (80 inches) wide must be equipped with three amber front and three red rear identification lamps spaced between 6 and 12 inches apart at the center of the front and rear of the vehicle, as high as practicable. The front identification lamps are typically mounted atop the cab of vehicles that do not have a flat-nose design. This type of identification lamp can also be found on road trains in Australia.
Clearance lamps
In North America, vehicles over 2,032 mm (80 inches) wide must be equipped with left and right amber front and red rear clearance lights to indicate the overall width of the vehicle. These must be amber at the front, red at the rear, and mounted as high as practicable.
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Westronics
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01/18/12 08:57am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Anybody using Tire Traker Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems
...I have some serious questions about the reliability and accuracy of t preious claithe system. TireTraker claims that it is more accurate than a manual tire gauge; I believe that specs are +/- 1%. I think that the accuracy is more like +/- 5%. I have inflated my duals to 80 psi using a "dual fill" connection. You lose a bit when you remove the fill connector, however, the Tire Traker reports pressures for the two tires that differ as much as 4 psi. I have also done the inflation for each tire individually with an accurate digital gauge. Same results.
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Doug
I don't know what previous claims may have been,but they now say +/- 4 psi. Your test is well within those margins of error. Note that +/- 4 psi is 5% margin of error at 80 psi. That's higher than a regular tire gauge, I think, but i;d call it acceptable.
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Westronics
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12/31/11 11:51pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Wireless Tire Pressure Monitor
No. There must be some sort of sending unit for each tire.
Perhaps, though, you asked the wrong question? Are you looking for after-market TPMS where the tire pressure sensor need no batteries? That is technically possible given the available energy from tire rotation.
Search the internet for batteryless TPMS and you will find some, but they may not be suitable.
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Westronics
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12/25/11 12:55pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: New Battery
I run mine until they won't hold a charge.
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Westronics
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12/22/11 07:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Help!!!
Bad GFCI plug? It's quick and easy to replace.
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Westronics
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12/22/11 07:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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