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Forum
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RE: Getting a refund from Camping World on extended warrenty
Huh???? So I can't come in and ask a question in an effort to prevent a problem? I have to wait till I have one? Let the moderators moderate and ignore just topics you don't want to participate in......
I agree, you do not start a post before you have a problem. I had a warranty from CW Extended Care. traded the MH. received a refund.
Paul, you did NOT ask a question:B
You should have stated, Has anyone had a problem getting a refund from CW for the unused portion of the ESC? There, I posted what you wanted to know:) Doug
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dougrainer
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05/24/12 08:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Getting a refund from Camping World on extended warrenty
I don't think I have ever heard of anyone ever getting a "refund" from an extended warranty for, well, any product. I do hear all the time about transferring a warranty to a new owner for a fee, that is common.
Very common, but you do NOT get as much back as you might think. Automotive ESC's are different than appliance type ESC's. The reason you do not hear of it is because you usually transfer the ESC to the new owner. Transferring the ESC to the new owner is usually a good selling point. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/24/12 06:08am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dometic refrigerator problem
Does the NDR1292 use a baffle and is it in place? Sometimes if the cooling unit has been changed someone forgets to take it out of the old cooling unit and put in the new one.
Miles
Yes, They ALL use a baffle for the LP flame. What IS the LP pressure? Doug
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dougrainer
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05/23/12 02:24pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: connected to shore power full time
You DO need a battery to keep the Power Converter from working too hard. MOST Power Converters need a Load (battery) to regulate its charging and output. As long as you keep the battery water up to the correct level, you should NEVER need to replace that battery for years. NO battery will cause the Power Converter to not last as long. You would be amazed to see how many Power converters we have to replace after a RV show, because we cannot connect batteries while in the show and we run off Power Converter only. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/23/12 06:12am |
Tech Issues
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RE: norcold thermostat
NEITHER on a Norcold. That movement is for Dometic refers with a NO SET tstat. They have no adjustable tstat other than moving the Temp Thermister up and down on the fins and THAT type movement only changes the temp by no more than 4 to 5 degrees. The Thermister on your Norcold needs to be in the center of the fin and you adjust by setting the external temp control. If you are having a hard time keeping a good set temp, you have another problem, NOT the placement of the Thermister. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/12 06:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Help with Norcold 1210 recall parts
They're not available to the public because the factory needs to track the devices that are installed, and where. Since it's a box swap only, it should be a 3 min swap
Norcold requires that BOTH the Thermocoupler AND the box be replaced as we have to send the defective parts back for testing.
The recall boxes are warrantied for life by Norcold. You just have to go to a service center, let them diagnois the problem and then order the new recall box. Some (we do) keep extra recall kits on hand for replacement, while we reorder the new one so you don't have to come back. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/22/12 06:08am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic AC Mod 57915.341 Problem
The odds are the Compressor relay on the control board is stuck closed. It is extremely rare for a tstat to cause this type problem. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 06:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic trips GFCI.
"Here's probably what is happening to your reefer. The problem is that many of the heating elements are either exposed or are clad but with open ends. Moisture will impregnate the refractory insulation when the unit is off. When the unit is first powered up, there can be quite high leakage to ground. As the elements heat up, the moisture dries out and the leakage dissipates. Most of this equipment is designed to be hard-wired on a dedicated circuit where any leakage is normally conducted away by the hard-wired ground. The problem arises when such an appliance is corded and operated on a GFCI protected circuit. The initial leakage will trip the GFCI and never allow the unit to warm up enough to quit leaking. Once you switched to a non-GFCI, the moisture burnt off. You may not have a problem now requiring replacing the unit"
Total Nonsense. Yep, it is worth about 2 cents:S Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 10:47am |
Tech Issues
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RE: A/C freezing up
If you have wall tstat and ducted system, you cannot freeze up as long as the freeze sensor IS installed in the correct place. It is common for the OEM installers to forget about installing the Freeze Sensor on the evaporator coil. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 10:42am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Ground Fault Keeps Tripping
Do you have a Norcold 1200 series refer? If so, one of the 2 heat elements is your problem. Replace BOTH. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 10:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dometic trips GFCI.
Refer receptacles are NOT required to be on a GFCI circuit. But, due to various wiring on RV's the OEM may use the GFCI feed.
IF the Refer trips a GFCI, then the 120 element is bad. Replace the 120 element. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 06:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Comfort Control Setting on Duo Therm a/c
yes, but WHY are you asking the question???? Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 06:00am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Where Do the Dead Norcold 1200 Refrigerators Go?
Please post how you bypassed the door heaters.
Thanks
Just tape off the door pins. Without those pins making contac, the door heater will not operate. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/21/12 05:56am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator Help please
1. There is NO pilot light. That is the full burner light
2. IF it runs and stays lit on LP and after 24 hours the freezer is NOT at or below 25 degrees, then the cooling unit is bad. No reason to test anymore. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/20/12 12:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Can't pump fresh water tank dry - '02 Phaeton
1. ALL Tiffins have a Fresh tank Drain Valve.
2. Tiffins you never have to PUMP to empty the Fresh tank
3. Either someone removed the fresh tank drain valve or you have not found it OR the valve is clogged up with dirt.debris from underneath and when you open the valves you have found the clogs stops the drain. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/20/12 07:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fluid For Leveling Jacks
Dougrainer is correct for the most part. When I had a sticking HWH leveler, I raised it and wiped it down with Dexron ATF. Resolved the issue temporarily. Also, if I leave it down for the winter, I now spray a little ATF on it to cure the dry cylinder problem. I did have to take one leveler off, as it would not retract well for nothing, or at least without a shovel, and have HWH rework it. Now it works fine. ATF is not a solution but a good temp work around.
What I do not appreciate is the condescension in the reply.
You people NEVER get the point.
No one listens after such a statement, even though it is correct. Doug, mellow a bit.
"Dougrainer is correct for the most part"
OK what PART am I NOT correct on???? I am a Blunt person. I do NOT sugarcoat my repairs/responses with regard to "feelings". I don't believe in all this jazz that has happened over 40 years about "feelings". Some customers and obviously posters on these forums do NOT like factual/BLUNT information. TOO BAD. SOME people NEVER get the point. This type thread has been around for at least as long as I have been a member, yet everytime it is reposted, the same people have to argue their silly lube point. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 06:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH Leveling System Problem--Help
1. Excess slope means that 1 or more jacks have reached FULL extension and cannot extend any more to level the RV and that shuts the system down but NOT for retraction
2. IF you open all 4 manual solenoid valves and the jacks 1 or more do NOT retract, you have a Bad shuttle valve. To get the offending jacks to retract, put a catch pan under the pump assbly and barely crack open the HYDRAULIC lines to the 2 center manual solenoids. That will allow the fluid to seep out and allow the front jacks to retract. The 2 center solenoids operate the front jacks and the outer operate the rear jacks. Usually, once this pressure is released, the shuttle valve will then open up, but it IS defective and will stick again. It needs replaced. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 06:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fluid For Leveling Jacks
Interesting, we have HWH saying that the jacks can be wiped down with WD40 or AFT, lots of us doing just that because it makes it easier, and a lot of people having replaced old springs with new ones to get them to retract quicker and yet we are all wrong?
If we are traveling every day, then we don't have to wipe the jacks down, but when we are stationery for a few weeks, it does help. And before we replaced the springs we had one jack that we needed to use a board to get it up - - new springs, up right way.
So experience doesn't count for anything, just Doug's opinion?
Barb
Barb. It is NOT my opinion. It is fact and I have been working on and fixing HWH systems for over 27 years and I am HWH factory trained. I AM a Master Certified RV Technician and have been such since the program was first implemented. I have 33 years experiance as an RV tech. Springs (new style) will NOT fix a sticking jack problem IF when it sticks you cannot manually push the jack fully retracted with just your hand pressure. IF it retracts with hand pressure then the new style springs will fix THAT type retraction problem. I can GUARANTEE that if you bought a new motorhome and this type problem happened under warranty (it does), you would NOT just let the dealer/oem state to do the silly clean and lube. You would DEMAND that the PROBLEM be fixed. Would you not? Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 06:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Duo-therm issues
Simple. The phone type wire connection from the tstat to the FRONT AC has a corroded or BAD connection at the front AC. The display is controlled by the FRONT AC control board. You remove the top AC Cover AND the Evaporator housing and you look at the 2 phone type communication wire connections where the BLACK meets the gray at a splice junction. Remove them and you will probably see rust corrosion. Cut out the corroded modular plugs and install new ends and make sure the plastic splice box is not corroded inside also. IF the Wall tstat is mounted on an OUTSIDE sidewall, the corrosion may be at the plug to the tstat also, due to humidity inside the wall. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 11:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Heat Pump/AC electrical question
OK... Thanks Doug... that makes sense. What didn't make sense is that there was no problem at the other three houses in the same week with the same usage of heat pump and fridge - same basic temperatures outside. The only oddity was that this was the only time I used the AC (with zero problems) because my cousin has a very aggressive dog so I had to leave mine in the RV most of the day. So it appears that the HP does draw a couple more amps than the AC and was the issue.
Of course, the variable could be that the circuits at the houses with no problems with the HP could have been 20 amp... perhaps higher for use of power tools or something in their garage workshops.
Now I might even sort of know what I'm talking about or need next time I mooch off friends and relatives. :B It might make sense to switch the fridge off while I run the HP for that quickie cycle when I know that I am on a 15 amp plug. At one stop, my uncle has a 30 amp plug in his yard for visitors. Now if I could only get the rest of them trained to do the same.
Thanks everyone!!
YOU are forgetting something. That 120 outlet you were plugged into-- That is NOT the only plug on that household circuit. There could have been something else in the house ON that circuit that was ON at various times and that would ADD to the amp load on that circuit. The WEAKNESS (age) of the breaker could also be a factor. Maybe it was old or had already tripped a number of times in years past and it was now just a little weaker than those other houses you were at. Now to your last response. Just adding a 20 or 30 amp breaker to that type circuit is WRONG. The wiring and the existing receptacles are only rated at 15 amps MAX. Some do install larger breakers but the fact is those receptacles are only rated for 15 amps MAX. I hope your Uncle ran correct wire gauge for his 30 amp plug. Doug
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dougrainer
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05/19/12 09:35am |
Tech Issues
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