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 > Your search for posts made by 'mowermech' found 1209 matches.

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RE: Boondocking and Water?

Most Forest Service campgrounds around here have NO dump station (and no garbage service), and the fresh water supply is limited. Some of the campgrounds have hand pumps on the cisterns that a water thief can NOT be used on. It is against the rules to dump RV waste of any kind into the vault toilets. Therefore, water conservation is of primary importance. Filling your fresh water tank (mine is 100 gallons) with a funnel and bucket is not fun. If the waste tanks get full it means a trip to town with the RV. "Town" might be anywhere from 5 miles to 40 miles away. Again, water conservation is absolutely VITAL! That means minimal dish washing, NO showers (personal hygiene can be maintained with a half gallon of water in the bathroom sink every other day or even every third day. "Wet Wipes" work just fine, as well.) With a little thought, you can find many ways to reduce your water consumption. For example, do you tend to leave a trickle of water running while brushing your teeth? If so, STOP THAT!! There are many things that we all do without thinking that waste water. THINK! CONSERVE!
mowermech 10/24/14 10:14am Beginning RVing
RE: old school observation.... tire whacker

> and no inferred thermometer... > and no weighing each axle and each wheel individually before each trip... I have long believed that we RV'ers tend to make RV'ing more complicated that it needs to be. I agree, and I don't do that.
mowermech 10/24/14 09:59am General RVing Issues
RE: Tow limits

We had a 29 foot Tioga class C with the Ford 460 engine. I wanted to tow the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited I had at the time. The hitch was rated at 3500 lbs. capacity, and the towbar I had was rated at 5000 lbs. I had the hitch reinforced by a highly qualified welder, and he inspected the frame extensions and said I was good to go. I guess he was right, because I towed that slightly modified Jeep up and down mountains, across the Continental Divide, over rough back country roads and on the freeway at 65 MPH for a couple of years. Nothing bent, nothing broke, nobody was injured or died. I have no idea what the Jeep weighed with all the extra iron (and the 30 gallon fuel tank) that was bolted on it. I didn't care, so I never weighed it. IMO, success trumps the numbers every time. Now, I have a Class A with the Ford V10, and tow the truck in my sig. with a 6000 lb. capacity towbar. It works.
mowermech 10/24/14 09:56am Towing
RE: Where do you guys take your colf cart camping?

In many campgrounds around here ( commercial, state, and Forest Service), if it is not STREET LEGAL, it is not allowed on the roads. since there are so few street legal golf carts or cars, many people have street legal ATVs or UTVs.
mowermech 10/23/14 12:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How far do you go in a day?

Long ago, I did 12 hour stretches for 700 to 1000 miles and didn't think a thing of it. Now, after 250 to 300 miles, regardless of time, I am ready to stop. I'm hungry, the rig needs fuel, my rear end hurts, my eyes are tired, and it is just time. Yeah, that's only 4 or 5 hours, but these days I am not in all that much of a hurry.
mowermech 10/23/14 07:40am Towing
RE: Friends from the "OOP'S" thread.

After some thought, we cancelled the trip in favor of spending the money on getting the pantry wall built in the garage. At the present time, it seems to be a better thing to spend money on.
mowermech 10/22/14 02:59pm Around the Campfire
RE: The best way to winterize your RV

Actually, a snow blower is not necessary. A simple snow shovel will do. Then you drive south until somebody asks "What the heck kind of shovel is THAT??" You have then gone far enough South.
mowermech 10/22/14 10:41am Beginning RVing
RE: MH vs 5er

Interesting comments. I can only give my perspective, from personal experience. We have full-timed in a 27 foot Class A (horrible floor plan, never again will we own a rear bath rig!), a 32 foot Class A (spent the winter in Billings, MT in it one year. Yes that IS doable!), a 32 foot triple slide fifth wheel with one ton Dodge dually, then when we settled again, we got a 11.5 foot truck camper, then a 29 foot Class C, and now we have the rig in my sig. The fifth wheel was great for full time living. The three slides gave us a lot of space, and the installed combination washer/dryer was wonderful. Using the one ton dually as a daily driver gave me no problems, but then we seldom use drive-throughs, so, although others have reported problems with drive-throughs, it was not a problem for us. I even accidentally parked it in a "Compact car only" spot at a shopping center! We also spent a winter in the fiver in Billings. For that winter, I rented a 100 GALLON propane tank. That was great! Our current Class A (with living room/dining room slide out) would be fine for full time living, but I would miss the washer/dryer that it does not have. One advantage is that we can take either the truck or the convertible with us. With a trailer, either a TT or fiver, we would be limited to the tow vehicle. However, in Montana (and some other Western states) we could take the ATV on a trailer with us as a double tow. In Montana, the ATV can be made street legal. Well, I could if DW would allow it...
mowermech 10/22/14 10:35am Beginning RVing
RE: Ready brake, ready brute

IMO (and it IS only my opinion) the ReadyBrute/ReadyBrake system is the ONLY practical auxiliary braking system for towed motor vehicles. It is simple, completely mechanical, relatively inexpensive, easy to install, does not require installation and removal like some of the electronic boxes, has never been accused (to the best of my limited knowledge) of burning up the towed vehicle brakes, has never (again, to the best of my knowledge) failed in the middle of a trip, and it simply does the job for which it was designed. I would recommend that if the system you have does not have the breakaway feature, it would be a good idea to get it. Why have the braking without the breakaway, it doesn't make much sense, IMO. Many people don't give any thought to the capacity of the safety chains or cables. Please do make sure that they have a working capacity that will tow your towed vehicle in the unlikely event the hitch should fail. The cables or chains should at least have the same capacity as the towbar.
mowermech 10/22/14 10:10am Dinghy Towing
RE: Friends from the "OOP'S" thread.

the door is sorta fixed. I shortened the cables, installed thimbles on the ends where they attach to the door, and it works good enough for now. I really should reposition the cable drums, though, so the cable won't try to run off the sides when the door is opened. The alignment isn't quite right. We will be heading out for Great Falls, then Kalispell, then home sometime Thursday. I'm not sure I'm crazy enough to take the motorhome across the mountains this time of year. Maybe we'll stay in motels instead...
mowermech 10/22/14 06:59am Around the Campfire
RE: HELP! Tow Bar

#3 is the towbar I used for many years on various Jeeps. It does EXACTLY the same job as the more expensive towbars, and does it well. I never found it all that difficult to hook up or unhook. In fact, I frequently did both by myself! Now, I have a fancy towbar with telescoping arms, that folds up on the front of the truck, and has a 2 inch ball hitch. I don't find it all that much easier to use than the old fixed arm towbar. But, that's just me, and everybody knows I am weird. The old towbar was rated at 5000 lbs. and the Roadmaster is rated at 6000 lbs. which is probably better for towing the truck. At least, that is the opinion of the "weight police". Any of the three pictured towbars will do the job. Personally, I would rather have the ball hitch, but some people like the receiver mount things. Some people have had problems with the swivel on them breaking, but that is apparently rather rare. It is your choice. good luck.
mowermech 10/21/14 04:12pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Chains?

The first question that comes to my mind is: Have the AutoSocks been approved by the various State DOTs for use on mountain passes? If they have not been recognized as approved traction devices, you will probably NOT be allowed to proceed when chains are required. they say that the AutoSock is approved in every state except Nevada, so they cannot be used on the Nevada side of Donner Pass. they give MCA 61-9-406 as approval for them in the state of Montana. Here is the applicable section of the Code: " (6) If the department of transportation determines at any time that dangerous or unsafe conditions on a highway require particular tires, tire chains, or traction equipment for vehicles in addition to or beyond the ordinary pneumatic rubber tires, the department may establish the following recommendations or requirements with respect to the use of the equipment for all vehicles using the highway: (a) chains or other approved traction devices recommended for driver wheels; (b) chains or other approved traction devices required for driver wheels; or (c) chains required for driver wheels. (7) Equipment required by subsection (6)(b) or (6)(c) must conform to rules established by the department of justice." Note that there are three levels of requirements, (a), (b), and (c). It would appear that if the level (c), Chains required, condition exists, the AutoSock may not be used. It does not state that the AutoSock is an "approved traction device" as recommended in (a) or required in (b). Section (7) of the code says that traction devices must "conform to rules established by the Department Of Justice". It would make sense for AutoSock to show that they in fact DO conform to those rules. But, that is neither here nor there, since they may not be used when the sign says CHAINS REQUIRED, I won't be buying them.
mowermech 10/21/14 08:30am Towing
RE: Another reason NOT to use the "Water Thief"

Interesting thought. Since much of the water in the Columbia River drainage and the Mississippi River drainage comes from Montana and Idaho, perhaps we should feel the same. Not to mention our (along with neighboring states) coal and oil. And our sugar beets. and our wheat and barley. and our alfalfa and timothy hay. and our platinum and palladium. and our big game out-of-state tags. We can stop growing (and exporting) some crops, and plant vegetables to feed ourselves instead. BUT, the name of the game for farmers is PROFIT, just like any other business. When the profit stops, the business stops, whether it be ag business or manufacturing. If ag business stops, we starve. As always, be very careful what you wish for, you just might get it. Oh, and toedtoes, you were typing while I was, and you are absolutely right!
mowermech 10/20/14 11:51am General RVing Issues
RE: 2005 Volkswagon Jetta, 5 Speed Manual Trans, Can I Flat Tow

Then, the question is, what does VOLKSWAGEN say about recreational towing of their vehicles? If they say no, or don't say anything one way or the other, and something goes wrong when you do it, I rather imagine you will be on your own no matter how new the car is. IMO, if the company does not specifically approve recreational towing, I will find another vehicle that IS approved by the manufacturer for the use I need.
mowermech 10/20/14 11:39am Dinghy Towing
RE: 2005 Volkswagon Jetta, 5 Speed Manual Trans, Can I Flat Tow

The problem with towing manual transmission vehicles is that the transmission is splash lubricated. Quite often, it is the cluster gear, in the bottom of the transmission, that does the splashing of the oil. the cluster gear only turns when the engine is running, it does not turn when the output shaft is turning. Therefore, when the vehicle is being towed, all the gears and bearings in the upper rear quarter of the transmission are turning without lubricant. It may take a while, but eventually they will be damaged and possibly destroyed. How many miles will it take to do damage to the bearings? I don't know. It depends on how much residual lubricant the bearing holds. A bearing that is run dry usually will not last long. It is true, one of the old-timey fixes for the problem was to replace the fill plug with a 90 degree street ell. That will raise the level of lubricant a little over an inch, perhaps close to two inches, which MAY be enough to get it up to where the output shaft will pick it up. and throw it around. It may also cause messy leaks! Good luck.
mowermech 10/20/14 07:43am Dinghy Towing
RE: Another reason NOT to use the "Water Thief"

It occurred to me, as I was reading the pages of posts in this thread, that some of the USFS campgrounds around here (up by Red Lodge, mostly) have hand pumps where a "water thief" will not fit on the outlet. If somebody did figure out a way, since the water is gravity flow, there would be no pressure to push it through a hose anyway, and the "water thief" would be useless. The pumps are only good for filling containers, nothing else!
mowermech 10/19/14 06:24am General RVing Issues
RE: Towing

Most states require a towed load over a specified weight to have a braking system with a break away system. Some are as low as 1500#, other higher. Ken ALMOST true, but incomplete. Where the TRAILER weight when brakes are required is 1500 lbs., it is usually UNLADEN weight. When the weight is 3000 lbs., it is usually gross vehicle weight. Many states have a Performance Standard for braking that more or less matches the FMVSS Braking Performance Standard. It is usually that any "combination of vehicles" must be able to stop within 40 or 45 feet from 20 MPH on a fairly level, clean, hard surface. Here in Montana that law is MCA 61-9-312. Some states have a legal definition of "Trailer" that does not match a towed motor vehicle. Now, having said all that, even though the nanny state safety gurus have not found it necessary to pass a law requiring auxiliary braking on a towed motor vehicle (in most states), and there has been NO testing of such systems by any independent testing laboratory, such a braking system is undeniably a GOOD IDEA! IMO, the best bang for the buck is the ReadyBrute integrated towbar/braking system. It is simple, mechanical, relatively inexpensive, and I have never seen a trouble report where it burned up the towed vehicle brakes as some electronic gadgets have been known to do. It will work on any coach (air brakes are not required). A breakaway system is available for it, as well. Once it is installed, all that is required is to hook up one or two cables. No lifting involved, and no major modifications to the vehicle. It simply works.
mowermech 10/19/14 06:13am Dinghy Towing
RE: How many RV batteries is to much for a trip

The furnace is a power hog. My first Class A had an 8D 12 V. battery, and one night at 40 degrees ran the battery dead by 3 AM! Believe me, when I had to get out of a warm bed to start the engine so I could start the generator, I was wishing I had 4 batteries! I would say don't mess with it! By the way, a Citation Supreme seems to be a Tioga Class C motorhome!
mowermech 10/18/14 11:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Y R exhausts/hookups on awning side

IIRC, the furnace and water heater exhaust is under the awning. It doesn't bother us, because we rarely sit under there, and if we do we just shut the furnace and water heater off while we are there. No problem. Oh, sure, it would be annoying if we allowed it to be, but we like the coach so we put up with that minor annoyance.
mowermech 10/18/14 06:29am Beginning RVing
RE: How to tow our Wrangler?

Thanks all! I'm waiting on a few quotes from RV stores to determine the best way to go. One question: I asked if a dolly would work and was assured that even though a dolly is meant to be used with a front wheel car; it can still be used towing a rear wheel Wrangler as long as I remember to not only place the manual transmission in manual before towing BUT also shift the transfer case to neutral. Is this correct? I can only state READ the Owners Manual and FOLLOW the Recreational Towing instructions contained therein. I think you will find that is is NOT recommended to dolly tow either the 4X4 or the 4X2 Wrangler. In fact, IIRC, the 4X2 Wrangler is not recommended to be towed four down, either. However, while it is not specifically addressed in the Owners Manual, you CAN dolly tow either one IF you remove the rear drive shaft from the rear differential yoke. This is also acceptable if you want to tow the 4X2 Wrangler four down. Almost ALL rear wheel drive cars can be dolly towed or towed four down if the driveshaft is removed. However, it is possible that the computer will become confused in newer vehicles when the rear wheels are going 60 MPH and the front wheels are not turning. good luck.
mowermech 10/17/14 07:37pm Dinghy Towing
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