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 > Your search for posts made by 'mowermech' found 1099 matches.

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RE: Ready Brute Elite in action

What a clever way to show the effectiveness of this braking solution. I really like this system and would have purchased it for my current rig had I not already owned the Blue Ox tow bar. There are two systems available. The Ready Brute is the towbar and braking system combination, as shown. The Ready Brake is the braking system only, that can be used with ANY towbar (including your blue Ox unit). Then there is the Ready Stop add-on that gives braking if the toad should ever break away from the towing vehicle. full information is on the NSA website.
mowermech 03/25/15 02:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Expired Propane Tanks

Yes, the 5 year recertification is a visual inspection. The cylinder is inspected for rust, damage, and an OPD, that's all. There are companies that can do hydro-static testing of cylinders, but it is cost-prohibitive. It would be cheaper to buy a new cylinder, and the new one will be good for 12 years from date of manufacture! There are also companies that will inspect and refurbish a lightly rusted cylinder, but again it would be better to buy a new one.
mowermech 03/25/15 07:36am General RVing Issues
RE: Suggest brake system for 2015 Wrangler Unlimited

Ready Brake from Night Shift Auto...simple to use, needs no external power and works great..see video below from 93mastercraft. The small black lever at the front of the tow bar moves forward during braking, pulling on the cable attached to the front of the toad which is attached to the brake pedal inside the car......Dennis Ready Brake in action Yep, that one...
mowermech 03/25/15 07:14am Dinghy Towing
RE: Friends from the "OOP'S" thread.

Ah, SPRING!! 31 degrees, and another 1/4 inch of wet sticky snow.
mowermech 03/25/15 07:12am Around the Campfire
RE: Towing 2005 Jeep Wrangler

I have also been told that the steering wheel lock can be disabled on those Jeeps so equipped. I hear it is a very simple procedure, so there is no reason to keep disconnecting the battery. I have completed this switch procedure, and the key can be left in the off position with the steering unlocked. BUT The wheels may lock back up when your front wheels pass thru the centered position and stay in that position while being towed. Yes I have placed my Jeep on stands and tried it. it does lock. If the lock pin is removed (the recommended procedure), the steering wheel can not lock. Or, just buy a 2006 unit or a 2012 or later unit, and have no problem.
mowermech 03/24/15 08:42pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Towing 2005 Jeep Wrangler

Mowermech is correct, there are no fuses to pull, just turn the key to unlock the stearing. You can leave the key in tht position without fear of draining the battery Not so my 07. (JK) any position of the key will turn on the electrical, and the normal (on) is the only position that unlocks the steering. I must place the key in the ON position and disconnect the battery. Yes, as I understand it that is TRUE for 2007 and later. That is why I specified "2006 and earlier". That is also one reason why I would never buy a 2007 or later Jeep Wrangler for a toad. I have also heard that sometime in 2009 Jeep quit using steering wheel locks, so there is no longer any problem about switch position. I have also been told that the steering wheel lock can be disabled on those Jeeps so equipped. I hear it is a very simple procedure, so there is no reason to keep disconnecting the battery.
mowermech 03/24/15 04:14pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Flat Towing a Chev Pickup

"The reason I say that about Ready Brake is this. MY system, the actuator in particular is worn out. I can literally push that actuator forward BY HAND! Needless to say, it's shot. Well, me being me, I tore that thing apart. Folks, there's noting scientific or miraculous about the inner guts of a Ready Brake. All there is, is spring, about 1.25" in diameter by about a couple of inches long. It's a pretty stout little spring. There's also a small, again, about 1.25" in diameter, little piston. That little piston has some tiny holes in it. And, it's got about three or four O-rings around it. That piston sits in a small bore. Inside that bore with the piston is a ounce or two or three of oil. So, as the actuator moves, due to your toad pushing on it, that spring and, the piston move forward. The piston is supposed to act as a shock. All that oil, is forced through the tiny holes, from one chamber to another. And, the spring, pushes it all back. But, as stated, mine is worn out. That makes for un-necessary brake action in the toad. Well, in all reality, all I needed from Ready Brake was the four O-rings and, maybe their oil, if it was something special. But, Noooooooooooo, they didn't want me doing this. THEY wanted me to package that 50 lb. actuator up and, send it all the way to them, so THEY could put the four O-rings in it and, replace the spring. Well, to say the least, that's ridiculous. I mean, I've got it apart, OBVIOUSLY I know how the system works, and, what's needed to bring it back to life. There's nothing complicated about this system. No adjustments, no settings, NOTHING that some high trained technician has to do that I can't do. So, my decision to walk away is my own. While it's a pretty good braking system for the money and, for the most part, about 99.999% of folks that use it are happy, including me for quite some time, I'm not all that happy with that much "slop" in the tow system anyways. There's plenty of movement, in multiple directions that I've never really been fond of. So, hence, I might be migrating over to the M&G system, especially since I've got an air braked coach which would make the that type of system work flawless. We'll see." I don't understand your problem. O-rings are readily available from many sources, and they are pretty much standard sized, and Buna-N is the most common material. go buy some to fit. Oil: Same thing. If it is red, it is probably Dexron ATF. If it is clear, it can be almost anything. If it matches your o-ring material, and is approximately the same viscosity, no problem. Spring: All kinds of compression springs are available from many sources. Grainger and McMaster-Carr come immediately to mind. Again, no problem. So, save your self some money and get the parts to overhaul your unit. If it doesn't work, you have nobody to blame but yourself. Good luck.
mowermech 03/24/15 03:54pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Anyone been turned away from campground for older rig?

BTW, it also says "Accepts Big Rigs, Heater Not Allowed" so what does the heater thing mean? I think it means they don't want electric heaters in their park. (It costs a lot to run an electric heater) "Heater" was once slang for firearm. Maybe they are old, and don't want firearms in their park?
mowermech 03/24/15 07:25am General RVing Issues
RE: Towing 2005 Jeep Wrangler

"if you DONT disable the ignition you'll run the battery down (while towing)." Not true on a 2005! 2006 and prior Jeeps had an "OFF, not locked" position in the ignition switch. THAT is the position the switch has to be in while towing (as noted in the Owners Manual). I towed a 2006 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited many miles with the switch in the "OFF, not locked" position. Since my son's 2003 Rubicon has that type switch, I'm fairly sure the 2005 does as well.
mowermech 03/23/15 05:08pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Anyone been turned away from campground for older rig?

I have never encountered the "10 year rule". If/When we do, we will get on down the road. No problem. I did, however, once encounter a "no firearms" rule. We did not even call the place. I did not have a firearm on board at the time, I just didn't like the rule. I also encountered an "only 2 pets" rule. Since we had two cats and a dog with us, we did not make a reservation. It is true, the business owner makes the rules, and the business manager enforces the rules. HOWEVER, the ultimate decision is mine and mine alone. I will decide where to spend my money. If there is ANYTHING about the business that I do not like, they will NOT get my money! I would be much more likely to stop at a park that has a few well worn RVs in it than a place where there are mostly new, or 1 or 2 year old Prevosts. I just would not feel comfortable in the midst of all that wealth! Or debt, as the case may be... But then, generally speaking, I tend to avoid places that self-identify as "resorts", or places which require a jacket and tie.
mowermech 03/23/15 04:55pm General RVing Issues
RE: Tow bar

I was very happy with a Reese fixed arm A-frame towbar on my Jeeps for many years. Then, because I needed more than 5000 lbs. capacity, I got a used Roadmaster Stowmaster 6000 lb. capacity telescoping arm unit. Other than the added capacity and the fact that it folds up on the front of the truck, I am not impressed. In fact, I use it just like it was a fixed arm unit. It is easier that way, for me. But, I bought it, and the truck is set up to use it, so I'm stuck with it. It works, that's all that is necessary. IMO, there quite simply is no "best"! there is only what each individual likes. Good luck in finding one that YOU like!
mowermech 03/22/15 09:10pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Tire Load range Mixing??

Just put 65 lbs in the new tires until you can get the others replaced. They will have the same load rating at 65 as your old tires. I agree, the air pressure should be equal in all four tires for best ride. I would have purchased LT tires and tossed the STs if it were my trailer!
mowermech 03/20/15 10:50am General RVing Issues
RE: Friends from the "OOP'S" thread.

I need to go out and set up the weed burner torch. I have some rolls of field fence that laid in the weeds for several years, and now I want to use some of it to re-do the "dog yard" so I can get into the pasture with only one gate instead of two (and make a garden spot, too, for berry bushes and such). Ennyhoo, the easiest way to get the dried weeds out of the fence fabric is to burn it out. I'm going to stretch the fabric out and support it with T-posts for now, then when I can break the cash loose I'll get the treated 6X6 posts and 2X6s to make the fence match the rest. Then I need to get the topper off the truck so I can haul a bunch of scrap to the recyclers, and get this place cleaned up a little! Yeah, summer is coming, now the work starts!
mowermech 03/20/15 10:34am Around the Campfire
RE: Friends from the "OOP'S" thread.

Overnight lows are in the mid 30s to low 40s. Almost time to sanitize and get ready to go. I guess I better check the conditions in the mountains, though. It would not do to get to the campground I want to visit, and find it choked with snow! Worse yet, find the road not open! Besides, it can be very cold up there at this time of year.
mowermech 03/20/15 06:46am Around the Campfire
RE: Language, are we progressing or regressing

I have noticed that the words that had the most "shock value" during the 1950s-1960s now don't seem to shock anybody. In fact, they have become quite common place. However, some words that used to be commonly used now are absolutely forbidden, and more are being added every year. I'm not sure if that is good or bad...
mowermech 03/20/15 06:42am Around the Campfire
RE: .....

IF your local zoning will permit it, you can get a 50 or 100 or 250 or 500 gallon fuel tank set up on your property. I recommend that you do not get a tank bigger than what you can use in three months. You may be able to get a rebate on the fuel used in off highway units (tractors, mowers, etc.). If you get non-taxed fuel, do NOT get caught putting that in your on-highway vehicles! The penalties are expensive!
mowermech 03/20/15 06:36am Around the Campfire
RE: towing hitches

IMO, the manufacturer builds all the "safety margin" one needs into his product. As long as you are at or below the stated limits, you are as safe as you can be. The manufacturer is not about to engineer something that will handle a certain weight, then rate it at that weight! I believe the "working load" will always be at least half of the true breaking strength. SO, IMO, yes, you most assuredly CAN safely tow an 8000 lb. vehicle or trailer with a 10,000 lb. rated hitch!
mowermech 03/19/15 07:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1994 BMW 325I towing four down

This is what Remco says about the 1996 325i: "Remco has no information for this vehicle at this time. Please check back later or contact your Remco dealer." The list does not go back to 1994. If it does not say in the Owners Manual that towing is allowed, I would assume that it is not recommended by BMW. You can, of course, get under the car and remove the driveshaft from the differential yoke, wrap the u-joint with tape to keep it assembled, and tie the shaft to the bottom of the body. I used to have to do that with a Datsun diesel pickup, so I know it works. good luck.
mowermech 03/19/15 07:26pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Warning! Caution! Warning!

"It is solid stainless steel, 1/16 inch thick. Will putting it in the dishwasher REALLY hurt it?" I can answer that now; I put it in the dishwasher, on the bottom rack, for its initial washing. It did not melt, it did not warp, and there is no discoloration. I guess it is dishwasher safe.
mowermech 03/18/15 09:22pm Around the Campfire
RE: The end all thread on class A gas mpg with v10

I don't bother to figure out my "fuel economy", even though I maintain a log book of every fill, and the odometer reading when it occurred. It would be quite easy to compute the MPG between fills, or even the average MPG since we bought the rig. But, IMO, why bother. I know that "fuel economy" and "motorhome" are mutually exclusive terms, and should not even be used in the same sentence! It gets terrible gas mileage. That's just the way it is. I do not need, nor do I want, the exact numbers.
mowermech 03/18/15 09:13pm Class A Motorhomes
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