Woodalls Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'mowermech' found 1065 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 54  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Trailer sway

I find it interesting that the truck argument rears its ugly head again. I once had a 19 foot TT. I towed it with either a Dodge 3/4 ton flatbed with Load Range E tires, or a Jeep Wagoneer with P rated tires, or a Ford E150 Club Wagon with P rated tires. The Dodge had a 400 V8, the Ford had a 351, and the Wagoneer had an AMC 360. I had to use a WD hitch on the Wagoneer to keep the back bumper off the ground. I did not use the WD hitch on the others. I towed that trailer on 2 track dirt roads in the mountains, over mountain passes on 2 lane highways, and on the freeways(what few we have here). I did not use any sway control of any kind. Never had an accident, never had sway, barely had any wind wander. The trailer was rock solid behind all three tow vehicles! (sigh)Just lucky, I guess. Proper loading couldn't have had anything to do with it, right?
mowermech 07/03/15 03:26pm Towing
RE: Friends from the "OOP'S" thread.

Our local radio club hosts classes and testing for new ham operators every other month. We average 5 to 10 new hams in each cycle. Ham radio is alive and thriving! HOT! 90 to 100 for the past week. Now they are saying we may be in for a severe fire season. Again. Well, yeah, the war, wet spring resulted in lots of grass and underbrush growth, so when all that dries there will be a lot of fuel out there. A lightning strike or two, and the fire will create its own wind. I am not going to buy any fireworks this year. There won't be anybody here to enjoy them tomorrow night anyway! the kids and grandkids will all be out of town.
mowermech 07/03/15 03:14pm Around the Campfire
RE: Toad Sway-Jeep From Hell FinallyTamed!!

I, too, found that the OEM steering stabilizer was not really adequate. In my case, it was the dreaded "death wobble" in an '06 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited. After balancing tires, inspecting the entire steering system, and other things, I replace the steering stabilizer (shimmy dampener) with an aftermarket heavy duty single unit, and it solved the problem. The OEM Jeep dampener just isn't up to the job, especially with larger tires!
mowermech 07/03/15 02:01pm Dinghy Towing
RE: 07 Georgetown 350DS how to bypass gas leak detector?

The solenoid valve should be on the tank, immediately after the pressure regulator. At least, that is where the ones I have seen were, and where the one on my Southwind is. Shut off the gas valve at the tank, remove the solenoid valve, connect the line to the regulator (you may need to buy an adapter to do that), turn the gas back on, and check for leaks. Replace the propane detector with one that does not have a shut off valve as soon as you can. Yes, you can get along without an alarm, but remember, it just might save your life! By the way, if you have a flatulent dog, and he lays by the detector, his flatulence will set off the alarm! If you have the problem, yours will, too!
mowermech 07/02/15 08:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Other State Registration

I am reminded of when I bought my Dodge Ram 3500 in CA. Since I bought it from a dealer, it HAD to be registered in CA, titled in CA, and the CA sales tax paid, even though I was at the time a resident of Montana, with a Montana address. The title and registration showed my name and Montana address. California was happy, they had their money. After I had transferred the title to Montana, and gotten the Montana plates and registration, I got a nasty-gram from CA DMV stating that I had better renew the CA registration or put the truck into Non-Op status, or I would be subject to heavy fines. I made a copy of the Montana registration, sent it to them, and never heard another word. So, yes, the OP CAN register his RV in NM, using his ID address, if NM will allow it as CA did for me. As I previously stated, he probably should not take his RV to Idaho with the NM plates on it. If he lives close to the border, he can store it in another state no problem. Just don't allow the Idaho authorities to see it in Idaho!
mowermech 07/02/15 08:42pm General RVing Issues
RE: Trailer sway

Not enough tongue weight would be my first WAG. If the photo in your sig is your current setup, it looks like the trailer is a bit tongue high and the trucks rear end is sagging a bit... I like to tow with the tongue just a bit lower and the truck level.. But, pics are deceiving, so it could just be the angle of the pic... ;) Adding "sway control devices" to control an uncomfortable tow is NOT a fix.. A properly loaded, setup, engineered trailer should just not 'sway' as you go down the road.. If it does, it's not loaded, setup or engineered properly IMO.. Get some weights on your new rig setup and then you might be able to see where the issue is. Good luck! Mitch EXACTLY!! Find out WHY the trailer is swaying, and correct it. THEN, and ONLY then, you can put all the "sway control" gimmicks and gadgets on the hitch that you desire. Now, having said that, let's establish exactly what is being described here; we ARE talking about true trailer sway, are we not? that is, when the trailer begins to sway back and forth in ever increasing arcs? Or, are we talking about "wind wander", that is the effect when a side wind hits the trailer, or the bow wave from a passing vehicle hits the side? If it is "wind wander", yes, a longer trailer has more surface area on the side, so naturally there will be an increased effect. There isn't much that can be done about it except learn to deal with it. True trailer sway can be caused by an improperly designed/built trailer (unlikely in an RV), or not enough tongue weight, or the tongue too high, or any combination of the three. Those are only the factors that I have had to deal with in the past. There may be others. IMO, you need to find what is wrong, and fix it, before applying "band aids" in the form of "sway control" gimmicks! Good luck.
mowermech 07/02/15 08:30pm Towing
RE: Other State Registration

You probably should NOT take your RV home to Idaho! While the "three state" thing may be illegal, there are a LOT of rental units running up and down the roads in this country that are registered in one state, driven by someone licensed in another state, and operated in a third state, with a rental contract filled out in a fourth state! Yeah, I know, those are RENTALS, "that's different".
mowermech 07/02/15 12:35pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ready Brake

North Carolina State Laws, Para. 20-124 (f): "Every semitrailer, or trailer, or separate vehicle, attached by a drawbar or coupling to a towing vehicle, and having a gross weight of two tons, and all house trailers of 1,000 pounds gross weight or more, shall be equipped with brakes controlled or operated by the driver of the towing vehicle, which shall conform to the specifications set forth in subsection (e) of this section and shall be of a type approved by the Commissioner." I have never found out which (if any) "types" of auxiliary brakes are "Approved by the Commissioner". North Carolina, AFAIK, is the ONLY state which has such a law. However, as stated elsewhere, many states (and the FMVSS) have "braking performance" laws. Which, interestingly, brings us to the Section (e) which is referred to above. It states: "(e) Motor trucks and tractor-trucks with semitrailers attached shall be capable of stopping on a dry, hard, approximately level highway free from loose material at a speed of 20 miles per hour within the following distances: Thirty feet with both hand and service brake applied simultaneously and 50 feet when either is applied separately, except that vehicles maintained and operated permanently for the transportation of property and which were registered in this or any other state or district prior to August, 1929, shall be capable of stopping on a dry, hard, approximately level highway free from loose material at a speed of 20 miles per hour within a distance of 50 feet with both hand and service brake applied simultaneously, and within a distance of 75 feet when either applied separately. (e1) Every motor truck and truck-tractor with semitrailer attached, shall be equipped with brakes acting on all wheels, except trucks and truck-tractors having three or more axles need not have brakes on the front wheels if manufactured prior to July 25, 1980. However, such trucks and truck-tractors must be capable of complying with the performance requirements of G.S. 20-124(e)." Of course, that seems to be VERY specific, and it does not appear to relate to RVs towing a vehicle.
mowermech 07/01/15 12:11pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Flat tow brakes

While a braking system is a very good idea, it is not required by law in many if not most states. Some states AND the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) have a braking performance law. ANY "combination of vehicles" (a motorhome towing a car is certainly a "combination") must be able to stop within a specified distance (usually 40 or 45 feet) from a specified speed (usually 20 mph) on a hard, dry, clean, level surface. Most of the supposed "towing laws" that are referred to on the various lists on the internet actually are for TRAILERS, and the legal definition of TRAILER in many states specifically excludes towed motor vehicles! AFAIK, none of the various braking systems available have been tested by any independent testing organization, such as Consumer Reports or Good Housekeeping. I agree, the Ready Brute Elite integrated towbar/surge brake system or the Ready Brake braking system that can be used with any towbar is, IMO, the best of the bunch!
mowermech 07/01/15 07:37am Dinghy Towing
RE: Scary New Credit Card

Just another attempt by the computer gurus to make the card-use process "more secure". Of course, it doesn't. Electronic security is an illusion. ANY "security system" that is designed in the mind of a human being can and will be circumvented in the mind of another human being. It was that way with mechanical security systems, and it is now a problem with electronic security. When I did my daily check of my accounts, I noticed that my bank was congratulating me on my "upgrade" to a new and better card, and the title of the account has been changed to show it. However, I haven't received a new card yet! IMO, the new card will not be any more "secure" than the old stamped steel "charge-a-plates"; the ORIGINAL credit card!
mowermech 07/01/15 07:21am Around the Campfire
RE: Do you carry extra fuel

We have one North/South freeway, and 1 1/2 East West Freeways (I-94 is pretty short). No, I don't carry any fuel cans. Even heading for Northwestern Montana, using State Route 3 to U.S. Hwy 12, to U.S. 191 to U.S. 87 to I-15 to U.S. 2, there is no shortage of all night gas stations/truck stops. I usually start full, of course, then spend the night and fill up in Great Falls, top off in Shelby or Cut Bank, and that gets me to where I'm going. Generally, I want to stop every 200 to 250 miles for fuel, regardless if I am in the truck or the motorhome. Rest stops are as needed. I don't even carry fuel for the ATVs! A full tank in each is usually enough for all the traveling we do on them.
mowermech 06/30/15 06:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Friends from the "OOP'S" thread.

ARRL Field Day for 2015 is in the can. We had three stations set up at the ball field in Roundup. I managed to get 26 contacts this year, which is an improvement over last year. One of the other stations got over 50 contacts, and the code operator got over 200! Sadly, we had no visitors. None. I don't know it it was because of lack of publicity, or the community just wasn't interested in what we were doing. It could, of course, be a little of both.
mowermech 06/30/15 06:52am Around the Campfire
RE: surge or electric brakes

"I'll point out that you really have no choice about whether to have brakes or not. Most states require them on any towed vehicle weighing over 3,000 or 3,500 lbs, both of which you are going to exceed, counting car and tow dolly." Actually, not quite factual. Some states have no laws regarding brakes on towed vehicles. Many states have "Braking Performance Standards" codified in law, which requires a "combination of vehicles" to be able to stop within a certain distance (often 40 or 45 feet) from a certain speed (often 20 MPH). These laws pretty much mirror the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. The laws requiring brakes on a towed load exceeding 1500 lbs. unladen weight or 3000 lbs. GVW most often ONLY apply to trailers. Towed motor vehicles do not meet the legal definition of a trailer in many states. Now, as to the braking system: It is purely personal preference. Both electric brakes and surge brakes work quite well. Electric brakes DO require the installation of a Brake Controller (and the associated wiring) in the towing vehicle. Well, let me take that back; it used to be that way, but a recent development allows the brake controller to be mounted on the trailer or car dolly. From what I have read about it, it works great! Surge brakes are, of course, completely self contained. My old dolly was a Demco Kar Kaddy, according to the decals on the tongue. I have no idea what a "Kar Katty" is. If I ever buy another dolly, it will be this one: http://www.americancardolly.com/
mowermech 06/29/15 07:50am Dinghy Towing
RE: dodge dakota

Im sorry,,the dakota is 2 WD and I am thinking tow it with rear wheels on the dolly,,is this doable? It is not recommended by the manufacturer of any dolly that I know of. However, it has been done. Do NOT rely on the built in steering lock to keep the front wheels straight. First off, it is not strong enough. Secondly, it rarely locks the wheels perfectly straight. You must tie the steering wheel firmly and strongly with the front wheels straight ahead. You CAN tow it on a dolly with the front wheels IF you remove the drive shaft at the rear differential yoke. Wrap the U-joint with tape to keep the bearing caps in place, tie the shaft firmly to the body, and put the bolts in a plastic bag so they don't get lost. I used to do that with a Datsun pickup I had many years ago.
mowermech 06/28/15 04:31pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Do you think I should spend $2600 and add exhaust brake?

I use the EB in traffic as much as I do the hills - It's not just for elevation descents, but for any desired deceleration.Yes, I forgot about that. I do that all the time..really saves the service brakes. I'm sure we've all heard that incredibly loud FAP-FAP-FAP-FAP of an unumuffled Jake brake (is that right?) in our travels. They are not talking about Jake Brakes here. Barney Sorry, Barney, but my old 1994 Dodge CTD 3500 had a Jacobs Rambrake on it. According to the Jacobs website, if Jacobs made it, it IS a "Jake Brake"! If Jacobs says it is a Jake Brake, I am certainly not about to argue with them! As for the OP, get the Jacobs Rambrake. I enjoyed mine greatly! My Gross Combined Vehicle Weight was 21,180 lbs when towing the fifth wheel. I crossed the Continental Divide, the Sierras, and the Cascade Range several times. The Jacobs Rambrake was worth its weight in gold! Your brake is made by Jacobs but it is not a "Jake brake", which is a very different type of device. Definition of Jake Brake From the referenced article(copy and paste): "All of the brake systems made by Jacobs Vehicle Systems can accurately be called "jake brakes," not just their compression release engine brakes. They also produce the Jacobs Exhaust Brakes and Jacobs Driveline Brakes, both of which are nearly silent. The engine brakes are the ones that make that distinctive staccato sound, and if I could make a WAV, I'd include my imitation of it here." I stand by my statement! to the OP: As you are on the downside of Homestake Pass on I-90 just East of Butte, MT (Eastbound or Westbound, doesn't matter) just remember, you COULD have had an EB installed. Then there is Lookout Pass on the MT/ID border, and Fourth of July Pass in Idaho, and the Vantage Hill at the Colu8mbia River Gorge, and Snoqualmi Pass over the Cascade Range, not to mention all the "hills" scattered along the route. Have fun.
mowermech 06/26/15 06:19am Towing
RE: No lp

I think you should check the valve at the tank to be sure it is open. That is the first shut off. If it is in the OFF position, there will be no gas flow to the regulator, the shut off solenoid, or any place else! Make sure the valve is open all the way, and back seated tightly. That keep gas from leaking around the valve stem.
mowermech 06/25/15 08:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Do you think I should spend $2600 and add exhaust brake?

I use the EB in traffic as much as I do the hills - It's not just for elevation descents, but for any desired deceleration.Yes, I forgot about that. I do that all the time..really saves the service brakes. I'm sure we've all heard that incredibly loud FAP-FAP-FAP-FAP of an unumuffled Jake brake (is that right?) in our travels. They are not talking about Jake Brakes here. Barney Sorry, Barney, but my old 1994 Dodge CTD 3500 had a Jacobs Rambrake on it. According to the Jacobs website, if Jacobs made it, it IS a "Jake Brake"! If Jacobs says it is a Jake Brake, I am certainly not about to argue with them! As for the OP, get the Jacobs Rambrake. I enjoyed mine greatly! My Gross Combined Vehicle Weight was 21,180 lbs when towing the fifth wheel. I crossed the Continental Divide, the Sierras, and the Cascade Range several times. The Jacobs Rambrake was worth its weight in gold!
mowermech 06/25/15 08:41pm Towing
RE: The scammers will try anything....

Not sure why anyone would answer the phone not knowing who it is on the other end. Silly this day and age. I answer the phone because I hate to hear it keep ringing. I also answer it because if I don't, they will wait until the answering machine picks up, then they don't say anything, they wait a couple seconds and hang up. So, the machine tells me I have a call. I also answer it because now and then it is an important call. Just because I don't recognize the number doesn't necessarily mean it is a scam. Then, of course, I answer it because it is sometimes fun to string them along. As for craigslist, when I list a vehicle and the scammers send an email, it is very easy to stop them in their tracks. I simply state that Montana law requires that I have their legal name and address, and driver's license number, to fill in the blanks on the title BEFORE it can be notarized for transfer (That law actually DOES exist!). I also tell them that all goods are cash only, as is, where is, no delivery. Strangely, I never hear from them again.
mowermech 06/25/15 08:26pm Around the Campfire
RE: Towing weight limits

Personally, I would tow the truck with no worries. In fact, I do. See sig. However, I would have second thoughts about the Subie on a trailer. As for the "80% rule", it seems to be a "Rule Of Thumb" thought up by some safety guru. The only place I have ever seen reference to it is on these forums. I ignore it. IMO, the manufacturer has already put a safety factor in his numbers. While I don't know what that safety factor is, I am sure the Mfg. kept it in mind when assigning the ratings. There is always a huge difference between "working load" and "failure load"! NOTE: I did NOT say you should go ahead and tow your truck. I simply said I tow mine, no more, no less!
mowermech 06/25/15 06:12am Dinghy Towing
RE: Good idea or not?

Anyone notice how close that car was to the truck? Remember, if you can't see the mirrors on the truck, the driver of the truck can not see YOU!
mowermech 06/24/15 11:53am General RVing Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 54  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 Woodalls | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS