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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Wardrobe update
It would be nice to see the follow up pictures, with items stored away, too.
We're packin'-up for the annual Memorial Day Weekend getaway... when I took this photo, we'd packed the shelves about 3/4 full. Note that DW has decided to organize with the clothing lined up horizontally in each cubby, while mine are vertical piles (& bins).
http://simulationfx.com/closet5.jpg
This shot shows how the shelves (in 2 left columns) can be easily removed to make a space for hanging garments.
http://simulationfx.com/closet4.jpg
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msiminoff
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05/24/12 06:39pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: New Vision's and Michelin tires!
They wanted to use Equal for balance. I am going to have them use Dynabeads.
Also, did you get the tires sipped. I am going to have mine done. Not real deep, but enough to open the lugs up for better traction and a little softer ride.
Dmax, I gotta ask; Why & why?
I think Dynabeads are terrific for tires that need them... but it sounds like you haven't even mounted yours up yet. I'd suggest starting with match-mounting & road-force balancing. This would identify an out of round or out of balance defect in a wheel or tire at which point you could have it replaced before you ever put 'em on your truck.
If you can't get a satisfactory ride after spin balancing, then you can always add the Dynabeads later.
Siping is also cool, but its primary purpose is for improved traction in winter conditions (ie. ice)... and you live in California where we are heading into summer. Again, I'd suggest starting with the tires not-siped (new XDS2's are manufactured with sipes in them to begin with) and then consider siping if you are dissatisfied with the dry traction or do it closer to winter (IF you're going put down significant miles in winter conditions).
Just my $0.02, take it for what it's worth.
Cheers
-Mark
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msiminoff
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05/16/12 10:20pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Programming Prosine 2.0
Hi Off Pavement,
You didn't mention whether your batteries are flooded or AGM... for the info below I am assuming the are flooded.
If you want simple setup, you can select the pre-progammed charging
algorithm #1 which is:
Temp comp: +/- 27mV/ºC
Bulk: 14.4V, 86A (max)
Absorption 14.4V, 86A (max)
Equalize: 17.5V (note: this is higher than US Batt's spec' of 15.3V !!)
If you would prefer to create a custom charge profile, the settings
below should work as a starting point..
Note that to do this you will
need to put the Prosine in "Installer-Only Mode". There are
instructions how to do this in the manual.
Under the Configure Battery menu.
- Set the capacity to: 260Ah
- Set battery temperature to your climate (cold/warm,/hot)
- Set battery temp coefficient to: -16.11mV/ºF
Under the Bulk Charge setting
- Set max voltage to: 14.5
- Set max current to 10%
- Set threshold to 14.4V
- Set the voltage timeout to ~15 mins.
Under the Absorption Charge setting
- Set max voltage to 14.4V
- Set max current to 3%
- Set max timeout to 8 hours
- Set threshold current to 3%
- Set threshold timeout to 15 mins
Under the Overcharge setting
- Set max voltage to 15.3V
- Set max current to 3%
- Set max timeout to 2 hours
Under Float setting
- Max voltage 13.0V
- Set max current to 3%
- Set max timeout to 28 days
- Set threshold voltage to 12.7V
- Set threshold timeout to 15 mins
Set charger type to : 3-Step
Set charger Mode to: Standalone
Again, this is a starting point... IMHO these settings are a bit conservative (specifically the C/10 bulk charge rate) but this is what US Battery specified, so go with it. Also, with my ProSine, the charge settings needed to be tweaked a little bit to get the actual charge voltages at the battery terminals to meet the spec's my manufacturer provided. In most cases it was just a matter of adjusting the voltage set points up 0.1-0.2V
Hope this helps.
PM me if you have questions.
Cheers
-Mark
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msiminoff
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05/13/12 01:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Safety chains with hitch extension
As I understand it, the rule you quote is for travel trailers only.
This is part of California Vehicle Code and applies to all towed vehicles.
Great Hitch extension job.
Thanx! ;)
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msiminoff
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05/12/12 09:40am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Safety chains with hitch extension
Looks like all I need to do is add 6" of chain to each safety chain to make things work. What do you think?
I think that you should securely weld steel rings to fasten the chains to the end of your extension so that you can connect the chains properly. This means: as short as possible without binding during sharp turns and always crossed.
When I made my extension I fabricated a plate with loops that mimic the ones on the factory hitch (& SuperHitch). In addition I use a chain that runs from the factory hitch all the way to the load-distributing hitch asssembly which would retain the extension & ball in the (unlikely) event that one of the hitch-pins failed or fell out... cheap insurance ;)
http://simulationfx.com/hitch2.jpg
I don't buy the "catch the tongue" idea....
Whether you "buy" it or not... in many states (including California) the law is that trailer chains MUST be crossed. The intent of crossing the chains is to prevent the trailer tongue from hitting the ground in the event of a hitch failure.
The California DMV says: "The purpose of safety chains is to prevent the trailer from separating from the tow vehicle in event of a hitch failure, such as a hitch ball that has loosened. The chains should be crossed in an "X" fashion below the ball mount, with enough slack to allow unrestricted turning, but not enough to allow the coupler to hit the ground."
In adddition, California requires two chains and they must have snap-hooks or other positive means of attachment so they cannot accidentally disconnect while in transit (ie. they cannot just be S-hooks).
Cheers,
-Mark
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msiminoff
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05/11/12 12:52pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Anyone running a tankless water heater?
I have an Eccotemp L5 portable water heater that I use for outdoor showering during extended desert boondocking trips (with an enclosure and an elaborate grey-water evaporation systems... but I digress) and it works flawlessly and provides unlimited HOT water.
It would be very simple to adapt this unit to use with a TC.
I've considered installing a loop in my camper's hot water line and running it through the wall of the camper and then simply hanging the Eccotemp on a hook. If the appropriate quick-connect fittings were used for water & propane, the heater could be connected or removed in a minute or less.
Cheers,
-Mark
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msiminoff
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05/09/12 12:30pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Wardrobe update
I found perfect bins yesterday at The Container Store. :B
These will be used for small items... toiletries, socks, etc.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe9.jpg
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe10.jpg
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msiminoff
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05/09/12 09:31am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Wardrobe update
Doesn't look like you lipped the shelves, hope the clothes stay put.
Of course there's a lip!! ;)
The maple facing is 3/4" tall... with a slot dado'd in the back to to fit the 1/4" shelf ply.
On the uprights the facing serves to retain the (removable) shelves.
Some of the shelves will get bins (I'm still looking for perfect fitting ones) for socks & under- britches, others will just have folded and/or rolled clothing.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe8.jpg
(note that these photos were taken before the shelves were stained & polyurethane'd)
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe7.jpg
The angle at the bottom of the shelves creates space for long items such as fishing poles, kites or a rifle.
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msiminoff
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05/08/12 12:39pm |
Truck Campers
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Wardrobe update
Fitting all of the clothing for our family of 4 into the TC's tiny closet has always been a challenge. We tried using hanging bins from IKEA for quite some time, but DW & I got fed up with the poor use of space and starting looking for a solution that would work better for us... We finally settled on converting the wardrobe into a bunch of cubbies.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe1.jpg
This image from their 2004 TC brochure shows Alpenlite's idea of abundant storage; Two small hanger-rods allow for clothing to be hung on hangars in one orientation only. The doors swing just inches above the bed which made it challenging to access the closet if anything (or any body) was on the bed.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe2.jpg
For some time we used the wardrobe with the doors removed.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe3.jpg
The first step in the update process was demolition. To improve access to the cubbies I increased the size of the opening.
The perimeter was reinforced with 1x2's then routed to he final size.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe4.jpg
I was also able to create two smaller cubbies (above the stereo) that we plan to use for storing toiletries. This required the relocation of the CO detector.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe5.jpg
This is the final assembly. The vertical panels and shelves are Birch ply (1/2 & 1/4" respectively), facing is solid Maple.
http://www.simulationfx.com/wardrobe6.jpg
The (6) shelves in the two vertical bays on the right hand side can be easily removed and each bay has a closet valet hanger and can store the same quantity of hanging garments as the original wardrobe. (note: we seldom bring clothes on hangers with us)
Cheers
-Mark
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msiminoff
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05/08/12 02:25am |
Truck Campers
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RE: 4 Step Scissor Steps
I suggest that you take a look at the TorkLift GlowSteps.
I have a similar set of scissor steps on my TC and they work great, stow easily, and are surprisingly stable. The only downside is that they are very slippery when wet or icy.
Cheers
-Mark
http://simulationfx.com/steps1.jpg
http://simulationfx.com/steps2.jpg
http://simulationfx.com/steps3.jpg
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msiminoff
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05/06/12 11:02am |
Truck Campers
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RE: 4 12 volt battery's in parallel ?
Very good artical I just found!
http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
I'm in favor of using "balanced wiring" when & where it can be easily implemented. Mathematically is makes good sense and if done at the time of installation, there is very little (if any) additional dollar cost. But has anybody taken the time to check the math done by the guys at SmartGauge? For starters it looks like they have mis-stated their the battery internal resistance value by a full order of magnitude :E
Time to do my own calc's....
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msiminoff
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05/02/12 04:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Honda vs Yamaha 2000 When Running Parallel
I would choose the one that has a dealer closest to my home with service and a well-stocked parts department.
Both of these units are highly regarded and with basic self-servicing will give you many years of reliable performance. But, that one time you need a part and can simply run down the street to pick it up is priceless.
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msiminoff
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05/02/12 07:24am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Inverter Wiring from Battery
Looks like I need to find one that is more low profile like yours. This one is definitely not going to work.
Here ya' go: Mega fuses and fuse holders.
A 100 amp fuse seems rather large for a 300 watt inverter. *SNIP* It should be sized adequate for the load and inefficiencies of the inverter and for the wire size between the batteries and the inverter.
Fuses are used to protect wires, not inverters...
As long as JR3316 is following MorningStar's recommended spec' of "6ga or larger" the 100A fuse is an appropriate choice.
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msiminoff
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05/01/12 07:01pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Inverter Wiring from Battery
I have very little room in my battery compartment too...
I chose to use "Mega fuses" which are a little bit more compact than the Class-T fuse shown in your photo. Mine are mounted right next to each positive battery terminal.
Cheers,
-Mark
http://www.simulationfx.com/odyssey_fuse.jpg
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msiminoff
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05/01/12 04:06pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: How Did You Balance Your 19.5 Wheels?
Mine were match-mounted and then road-force tested at a local high performance alignment shop (Custom Alignment). There is absolutely no noticeable wheel vibration at all even at speeds well above what the tires are rated for (yes of course, the ride/road-feel is harsh with the 19.5's, that's a given).
When I initially purchased the tires, one of them has an uncorrectable excessive road-force and Michelin deemed it to be defective and replaced it under warranty.
Depending on the location the weights are stuck-on (center of the wheel) or clipped-on (outside edge) I haven't felt the need to add any additional active balancing devices.
Cheers
-Mark
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msiminoff
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04/30/12 07:23pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Home made Gen-turi for $20.00
Whats your take on all CO2 detectors being mounted just off the floor? And all smoke detectors being mounted just off the ceiling?
Smoke, as a result of combustion, is usually warmer than the surrounding air and rises due to convection. For this reason, smoke detectors are mounted on/near the ceiling.
I am not familiar with the use or installation of carbon dioxide detectors and I do not know what the source (hazardous quantities of) CO2 would be inside an RV.
-Mark
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msiminoff
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04/30/12 08:48am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Home made Gen-turi for $20.00
Nice work mph_medic, that looks like a clean setup!
Being that CO usually pools in lower places, like basements (the reason that I have a Co detector in my basement), what is the effect of the discharged gas if you have the roof vents open?
The density of carbon monoxide (MW=28) is nearly identical to that of air (29) (i.e. it doesn't "pool in lower places"). However, CO is a product of combustion, and hot (exhaust) gasses rise due to convection. As a result of this convection, having the generator exhaust exit above the roofline is far safer than any location below the living space.
CO detectors should be installed in the locations where people breathe the air, and at (approximately) the height that their mouths & noses will be located... If you sleep or spend time in your basement (RV or home), then it makes sense to have a CO detector there, but that should be in addition to the one(s) in the living space(s).
Cheers,
-Mark
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msiminoff
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04/30/12 12:41am |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Special cable Length?
Could/would a cable made up to run the 50-60' distance **SNIP** cause ANY problems with the setting up of the CC or running of their program?
Don, it would be helpful to know which MorningStar MPPT controller you are considering since they each have different communication options...
On the TS-MPPT-60 and Sunsaver MPPT models, making a long cable is a piece of cake since you can use a standard (CAT5 or RJ-11) cable... for the TS-MPPT-45 you will need to use an RS-232 serial cable, which may not be readily/locally available in the length you need.
Cheers
-Mark
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msiminoff
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04/29/12 08:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Go Power versus Morningstar versus Samlex
I don't own any of the inverters you are considering...
But I do have a MorningStar solar controller and I have lot of respect for them as a manufacturer;
- OUTSTANDING customer service!
- Great website
- Great product documentation
- Great product build quality
These things certainly contribute to MorningStar's higher cost and it's all part of the "getting what you pay for" equation. Only you can decide if this stuff aligns with your needs and budget.
Cheers
-Mark
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msiminoff
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04/27/12 11:56am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Tires and the mis-nomer of Load Range Letter Designators
As I was researching the capacities of the 265x70x19.5's I discovered an interesting point. Each tire can vary accross weight capacity... including shifting across D and E ratings.
Gary, et al...
The "load range" letter represents the ply rating, but it is not specifically indicative of the maximum tire load. A good description of tire number and letter codes can be found HERE on Wikipedia.
Cheers
-Mark
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msiminoff
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04/27/12 10:27am |
Truck Campers
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