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 > Your search for posts made by 'msmith1199' found 583 matches.

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RE: Fiberglass roofs

So basically what I said???? No, the glue did not fail. The air intruding under the Rubber caused the rubber to pull loose. BIG difference. HOW do you think we remove the old rubber when we replace the Roof?????? Doug You blow on it? People like you we fire as customers. You are not worth the BS you bring. To answer your STUPID response--you cut in strips and PULL it off the decking. It takes a LOT of strength to rip those small strips OFF a correctly glued roof. So, this shows the force of wind at 60 mph getting under the Rubber and pulling it loose to bubble. To also answer your stupid response, if glue failed why do you not see bubbling at the middle or rear of a rubber roof in transit? Because there is no place for the wind to get under at those spots. Doug You would never have to worry about having me as customer. I made a completely accurate statement about a problem with rubber roofs and you have to come in with a know-it-all attitude to tell me I'm wrong. Only problem is I wasn't wrong as all I said is the roof bubbles after the glue pulls loose. You came in with why that happened, but that didn't prove me wrong as I never said why. Maybe you should learn to quit being such an ass.
msmith1199 02/20/17 09:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roofs

So basically what I said???? No, the glue did not fail. The air intruding under the Rubber caused the rubber to pull loose. BIG difference. HOW do you think we remove the old rubber when we replace the Roof?????? Doug You blow on it?
msmith1199 02/19/17 08:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roofs

So basically what I said????
msmith1199 02/19/17 05:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roofs

Okay Doug I get it. The roof bubbling is not because the glue failed. It's because the air caused the glue to fail?? Was I wrong because I used the word glue instead of adhesive? Isn't glue an adhesive? Either way didn't the glue fail and cause the roof to bubble???
msmith1199 02/19/17 03:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roofs

Quite a few times I've seen motorhome and trailers (mostly trailers) with rubber roofs and you could see the glue holding it down had given way and the roof material was bubbling up. The driver probably had no idea it was doing that since it was only visible at freeway speeds. My guess it most of those roofs were probably close to failure. I have a fiberglass roof on my motorhome and never had any issues. I even hit a tree branch once that destroyed my bathroom roof vent and did nothing to the roof. I've heard stories of people tearing holes in the rubber roof with tree branches.
msmith1199 02/19/17 01:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stuck in the mud, any tips?

I have a neighbor a few doors down that had his motorhome sitting next to his house on a gravel driveway. A few days ago we drove by and saw the motorhome had sunk into the ground and was sitting on it's belly. He worked for a couple of days to finally get it out. So gravel wouldn't hurt, but it's no guarantee the dirt under the gravel wouldn't get saturated and the motorhome still sink. Yeah, and we went from a drought to the most precipitation we've had in 50 years. The overflow at Oroville dam that caused all the headaches has never been used in the 50 year history of the reservoir. The AAA driver told me this season he has extracted more vehicles and RVs out of the mud then he has ever seen in his 25 years in the industry. They are now forecasting 5 more days of rain. The overflow would not have been used this year either if it wasn't for the hole in the regular spillway. They lowered the flow to that which is why they have to use the emergency spillway. So it wasn't the amount of rain, but the failure of the main spillway that caused all the problems.
msmith1199 02/16/17 05:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stuck in the mud, any tips?

I have a neighbor a few doors down that had his motorhome sitting next to his house on a gravel driveway. A few days ago we drove by and saw the motorhome had sunk into the ground and was sitting on it's belly. He worked for a couple of days to finally get it out. So gravel wouldn't hurt, but it's no guarantee the dirt under the gravel wouldn't get saturated and the motorhome still sink.
msmith1199 02/16/17 01:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dicor Self Leveling or Eternabond Tape

I used both on the front and end cap seals. I used the self leveling caulk in a small amount on the joint itself and then put the tape over the top of it. If you do this just use a small amount of the caulk as the tape has to stick to the fiberglass, not the caulk.
msmith1199 02/10/17 11:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: hydraulic leveling jacks reservoirs

2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with hydraulic leveling jacks.. Where the heck is the reservoir? Follow the hydraulic lines from one of your jacks. On my Tropical the reservoir is in the left rear of the engine compartment accessed by the same door as the air filter.
msmith1199 02/05/17 08:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow car hookup by single person

I just glanced through everything so far and didn't see this mentioned. I did see a lot of comments about type of tow bar not mattering. That isn't really true. There are different types of tow bar. For example you could get a rigid tow bar. I saw those mentioned on here and those are very difficult to hook up alone. There is zero play in them and you have to get the ball perfectly lined up under the hitch or it won't connect. But you probably aren't getting one of those. Of the other types, you have the ones that hang off the back of the motorhome and the ones that hang off the toad. Once you have them mounted they basically work the same way and have play in the bars so you just have to get the toad within the envelope and you can hook it up. The biggest difference being if you get the type that hangs off the back of the motorhome, you can just leave it on the motorhome and never take it off if you don't want to. The tow bar can be heavy and you have to have a place to store and then have to lug it out to put it on the vehicle. If it's on the motorhome you never have to do that if you don't want to. Just put a cover on it if you store it outside. If you get the tow bar that mounts on the toad, you probably won't be leaving it there all the time. So you'll be doing what I do and that's carrying it from it's storage spot on the side of the garage to put it on the toad. I don't know how much the thing weighs, but it isn't light, and I can see that getting harder and harder to do as I get older. But if I ever replace it I'll get one that hangs on the motorhome and since I store the motorhome inside I'll just leave it on all the time.
msmith1199 02/01/17 09:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Planning Cross country trip

I'm a driver and there is nothing I love more than to be out on the road in my motorhome. But having said that, there is very little chance I'd plan a cross-county and back trip to be done in two weeks. I once went from California to Oshkosh Wisconsin and back and we did that in two weeks. But even then we left California on a Thursday after work and pulled into Oshkosh on Sunday around noon doing nothing but driving and sleeping all the way. We went to the airshow for a few days and then over the next week and a couple of days worked our way back to California through South Dakota and Wyoming. If I wanted to go coast to coast and actually see things along the way, I wouldn't do it unless I had at least four weeks, probably more. If I only had two weeks and I wanted to actually stop and see things, versus seeing things out of the front windshield, I probably would stay within 1000 miles of my start point. Probably make a big circle.
msmith1199 01/31/17 10:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cost of driving now vs then

We just bought a new car. It's actually the first brand new car we have ever purchased. Anyway it has me thinking about how much cars cost now vs decades ago. I remember in 1973 my father purchased a new basic Dodge Dart for $2700. Back then minimum wage was $1.75 so it would have taken 1543 hours to pay for that car. Now a Dodge Dart can be purchased for $16320....1338 hours of labor at our current minimum wage of $12.20 per hour. Flaw: Though there are some cities and possibly states which have a higher Minimum wage.. The Federal minimum is 2.75,, YES 2.75 The official federal minimum is 7.25 but if you are a waitress or waiter or work in another job class where you get tips it's 2.75. So please re-calc based on 7.25, not 12.20 as the minimum wage. Bernie was not successful in raising the minimum wage or elminating the wate-staff execption to it. I know one watress. I saw her pay stub 28 dollars for the week. The OP is in Canada. Last time I checked, they didn't follow our laws up there.
msmith1199 01/12/17 12:28pm Around the Campfire
RE: Cost of driving now vs then

I can tell you this, I bought my current truck new 10 years ago. A 2007 F150. Despite earning almost 4x now than I did 10 years ago when I bought it, I can't afford to replace that truck with an identical new model as it costs exponentially more than it did then. The rate of increase in the cost of that truck has exceeded the rate of my income growth. Pickup prices do seem to have gone insane if you want new with all (or even some) of the bells and Whistles. A basic work truck is still semi-affordable, but a Ford F-150 4x4 on the low end comes in around $40k. People are paying over $60k for a 3/4 ton truck nicely outfitted. I just can't bring myself to pay that kind of money for any vehicle, other than my motorhome.
msmith1199 01/12/17 12:27pm Around the Campfire
RE: Exercising your RV while at campsite

My motorhome is a 2004 with a Cat diesel and currently has about 50,000 miles on it. I have had it since new. In 13 years I have never had to repair a single thing related to the drive train. Nothing has ever broke. I do live in California so I can easily take my motorhome for a drive anytime I want so if you live in a place you have to winterize it then you have to deal with that. Whether I'm doing it right or wrong all I can tell you is 13 years with zero mechanical repair bills tells me I must be doing something right. I guess we all have our success stories based on diverse experiences - Bought our new 2003 5th wheel with Onan 5500 generator and we transferred it into 2 other 5th wheels over 13 years until we sold it last May in our last 5er. Sat 9 months every single winter for 13 years - never touched it. Temperatures down to -20. Changed oil 3 times in 13 years. Every spring it started and never missed a beat. It's still running today with the new owner. If it were up to Onan, I would be out there with a portable heater under it trying to start it every month to spin the armature. You're comparing a generator to a motorhome????
msmith1199 01/07/17 09:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Arizona State Taxes if Annually Rent RV Space??

My father in law retired from the military while stationed in california and immediately moved to colorado. California came after him for taxes for years. He finally prevailed but he was harassed and threatened for those years. No good reason, that was just California. That was called "The source tax." California, as well as other states with a state income tax, decided that any pension you received that was based on work you did while in California that you owed California State income tax on it, regardless of where you lived after retirement. That was outlaws by Federal law years ago. Only the state you claim residency in or earn income in, can collect income taxes on you, assuming you follow the time limit rules. You can't claim to be a Nevada resident and spend 2 days in Nevada and 363 days in California. Or at least you can't get caught doing that.
msmith1199 01/06/17 03:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Arizona State Taxes if Annually Rent RV Space??

My last 8 years work were in California, left as soon as I retired. Liked to visit each summer, but quit because CA kept insisting that I was a resident and wanted state income taxes. Is Arizona like that? this doesn't make a lot of sense to me. you moved out of CA, established residency elsewhere, and when you visited CA and did not earn any money in CA they wanted income taxes from you. how did they even know you were in CA visiting or is there something you aren't telling us? bumpy The revenuers know everything!!
msmith1199 01/06/17 01:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Exercising your RV while at campsite

Hello. Numerous people on this site say that a RV (class A Diesel) should not sit for a long period of time. How long is long? What if you are at a park and not planning to go out of the park in the immediate future. Is running the RV in the park enough exercise and if yes for how long? If no how long does one need to drive it out of the park to give it the required exercise? Thank you in advance. I'm no expert like all the others on here, but I'll tell you I once bought a Chev pickup many years ago. I think it was about 8 years old at the time I bought it and it had less than 20,000 miles on it. The guy I bought it from told me he only used it in the summer to pull his trailer and 7 to 8 months out of the year it would sit in his driveway complete unused. He would take the battery out and not put it back in until camping season. I thought I was getting a good deal on such a low mileage vehicle. And it ran great for about two months, then the problems started. I can't even remember most of them but I remember the big items. Like a new transmission, a valve job, new rear brake drums, and a list of other things. And every single problem was related to letting it sit too long without running it according to the mechanics. Now it was a gas engine versus a diesel and it wasn't a motorhome, but it taught me a lesson. I rarely go longer than a month without taking the motorhome out for a drive. I don't drive 100 miles or for several hours, but I do take it out to the freeway and down to the next ramp and then back around. Probably a 10 mile circle and I let the engine run for at least 30 minutes. The reason I drive it is more than just to put a load on the engine. It's to make sure everything else spins and distributes the lube too. The drive axels, tranny, wheel bearings, etc. My motorhome is a 2004 with a Cat diesel and currently has about 50,000 miles on it. I have had it since new. In 13 years I have never had to repair a single thing related to the drive train. Nothing has ever broke. I do live in California so I can easily take my motorhome for a drive anytime I want so if you live in a place you have to winterize it then you have to deal with that. Whether I'm doing it right or wrong all I can tell you is 13 years with zero mechanical repair bills tells me I must be doing something right.
msmith1199 01/06/17 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Exercising your RV while at campsite

There's some advice that's all over the board!! While this ^^^^ is not helpful ^^^^^, the reality is that you should NOT "exercise" (start) your engine while parked. You need to drive the RV 25+ miles if you plan to start it. If that's not in the plan then there is no reason to start the engine. It's likely also not necessary to run the genset while parked but if you do then you should load it up to about a 50 percent load and let it run for an hour or so. Unload it, let it cool down for a few minutes and then shut the generator down with no load. Mine is not helpful but getting advice that is everything from let it sit for 5 years and don't worry about it, to start it every 30 days and drive it 100 miles, is helpful?
msmith1199 01/06/17 11:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Exercising your RV while at campsite

There's some advice that's all over the board!!
msmith1199 01/05/17 05:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Supplemental Brakes Confession Time

Don't look for TRAILERS. Look for, or do what I did, ask the State Police, what the requirement is for a "VEHICLE IN TOW". Then try to remember when you saw any tow truck operator put a supplemental braking system in a car that they were towing. TRAILER requirements are what the people put in the ads to fool people in to buying their braking system. It works, so they keep doing it. msimth1199 is ex-police and he is telling you the truth. As I mentioned, I contacted most States that I would travel in and never found a single one that required brakes in my toad. I posted the names of the people that I contacted. Here is a typical reply from Florida. NOTE that no weight limit is ever mentioned. Compare this with what BrakeBuddy tries to tell you: A vehicle towed behind a motor home would be exempt from the braking requirements in Florida statute 316.261 as a drive away, tow away operation. Please contact me if you have any other questions. Lt. Jeff Frost Florida Highway Patrol Public Affairs Officer Commercial Vehicle Enforcement 2900 Apalachee Parkway, MS 45 850-617-2279 Tallahassee, Florida 32399 www.flhsmv.gov/fhp Jefffrost@flhsmv.gov Which is why I went to my state police and inquired. Was told that "the book" says if the vehicle was never DESIGNED to be towed ( and cars ARENT) then no Aux braked are needed. A TRAILER which IS designed to be towed...DOES require braked. And again, as far as I know there is no state that has a law that says aux brakes are never needed. All the states have a braking performance requirement and if your motorhome and toad can't meet that requirement then yes aux brakes are mandated as it's the only way you'll be able to comply with the law. If your motorhome is a 21 foot Class C and your toad is a Ford F-250 4x4 crew cab long bed truck, then I assure you every state in the land will have a law requiring you to have aux brakes on your toad because you'll never be able to stop that combination with just the brakes on the motorhome.
msmith1199 01/04/17 10:38pm Dinghy Towing
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