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RE: skip this campground
Was in The NP campcround near Bryuson City, NC (smokies) and self registered for a site that we had been to before. The adjoining site was occupied and had the generator running. I needed (would have liked) to have a drill batt charged. I had the charger. I knockd on the door and finally a lady came-I asked about the batt-She said "NO-WHY DONT YOU MOVE." Move I did after posting a warning on the bulletin boars by the self reg maching.Huh :h :h
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texatDurango
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06/17/09 03:39pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: skip this campground
... These 2 CG are the most successfull because of their custome service, and honesty. Pure and simple.
Wait a minute.....you mean that customer service doesn't just mean taking the easy road by pleasing whoever is on the phone or standing in front of you at the moment while ignoring everyone else and breaking previous promises? Imagine that! I wonder how many campground operators could learn something from that simple concept.
No wonder I have my favorite parks and campgrounds!
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texatDurango
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06/15/09 02:45pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Concerns about tornados in Amarillo, TX
I lived in Amarillo over 15 years and would offer the following:
1. It's usually windy which means it's not an awning friendly area so forget leaving the awnings out or even using them at all!
2. You are no more at risk of being in a tornado than any of thousands of other cities within a 500 mile radius.
3. IF a storm does appear to be heading your direction, the worst thing to do would be hop in the rig and try out running it.
4. Relax... You're worrying is unfounded (in my opinion). In my 15 years there I never saw a tornado, not even in the surrounding area. Many purple sky adventures to be sure though, lots of hail and high winds but no tornadoes.
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texatDurango
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06/14/09 11:17am |
RV Lifestyle
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RE: skip this campground
Sorry you had a bad experience. From the other side of the issue, let me possibly explain why you were moved. I seriously doubt it was to just be mean, ....
You are right, they probably didn't move him to be mean, they could have just been LAZY!
I frequently find myself returning to campgrounds where I previously stayed and have asked for particular sites for various reasons (away from road noise, large grassy site, backed up to a river, etc.). On several occasions I too was changed for no logical reason and a quick investigation revealed that whoever was assigning folks to sites when they arrived didn't bother to check to see if specific reservations were made prior or they just ASSUMED that whoever made reservations wouldn't mind being shuffled around.
If a specific site was requested, it should be honored and if someone calls later wanting two sites together they should be told that certain sites are already reserved and every effort would be made to accomodate them EXCEPT for moving existing site specific reservations around!
That's what reservations are all about..... "First come - First served" or "You snooze - you loose" whichever phrase you prefer! :)
All this said, I wouldn't post a warning for every campground that does this.... else we wouldn't have any places to stay! :E
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texatDurango
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06/14/09 11:06am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Cutting through the middle of New Mexico, need opinions
Glen,
Are you saying you would turn off at Carrizozo heading south on 54 then 70 up to Tinnie then back onto 380 into Roswell?
Looks like we might make it home in a few more weeks at the rate we're going, we're enjoying the cool temperatures here in Overgaard right now and next week might stay in Show Low looking at homes! We drove over today and spent the day touring a development. I might just make an ex-Texan out of myself yet! :)
Until the mesquite festival in October....
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texatDurango
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05/31/09 09:28pm |
Roads and Routes
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Cutting through the middle of New Mexico, need opinions
We are now in the middle of Arizona near it's eastern border and are thinking of heading into New Mexico to visit Carlsbad Caverns.
My chosen route (to avoid interstates and enjoy some scenery) will be entering the state from the west on hwy 60 heading to hwy 380 then dropping down at Roswell onto hwy 285 into Carlsbad.
All seems well and good but when I ran the route through my mountain directory it made some pretty negative comments about the road conditions being narrow, poor and rough on hwy 380 between San Antonio and Carrizozo.
But, my mountain guide is several years old and the conditions may have changed so.....
My Question: Is anyone familiar enough with this stretch of hwy 380 to offer an opinion or suggest a better route to Carlsbad?
Thanks,
George
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texatDurango
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05/29/09 09:20pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Arizona - Phoenix to Show Low area - suggestions
Well, we made it to a nice little park in Overgaard called Elk Pines and lucked out and got a site for a week because the folks coming in for the summer are running a week late!
I'm glad I chose 87/260, wow, what a scenic drive!
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texatDurango
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05/28/09 09:14pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Arizona - Phoenix to Show Low area - suggestions
Thanks for all the replies. We're in Blythe for the night but off in the morning and looks like 87 is the route! Our first rv park of choice is Elk Pines in Overgaard and if it isn't what it is portrayed on the website, we'll keep driving towards Show Low and Venture In.
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texatDurango
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05/27/09 10:18pm |
Roads and Routes
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Arizona - Phoenix to Show Low area - suggestions
We're heading eastbound from California and I heard there are some nice campgrounds in the Show Low area of Arizona and instead of just staying on I-10 all the way through Arizona and New Mexico, I thought about detouring up through the Show Low area for a few days or weeks, no hurry.
It looks like one can take Hwy 60 from Phoenix thru Miami/Globe OR Hwy 87/260 thru Payson. To those who know, which would be the preferred route to tow a 36' fiver?
Also, according to guides and the internet, the Venture In park near Show Low appears to be a nice place to stay, any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance
George
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texatDurango
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05/27/09 06:00am |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Tires - pressure and weights
....We had the same problem with our Cypress 5th wheel (we were only 20# from going over our rating) and I did the same thing you did, switched to 17.5" wheels and G114 H rated tires.
I'm running them at 110# and just got back from a trip from NY to FL and back with no tire issues what so ever. They run slightly warm and do not "shake" anything in the trailer.
The owners manual would not be right after switching tires.
Sure is nice to not have to worry about tires on a heavy 5th wheel.
We leave here in two weeks so I'll get a chance to see how they ride. With the Trailer Saver air ride hitch and MoreRyde suspension I don't look for any problems. Like yourself, it's going to be nice not worrying about having a blowout around every corner. My last one was last summer on I-5 just south of Sacramento in heavy traffic, not a pleasant experience!:)
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texatDurango
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05/18/09 01:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Tires - pressure and weights
Thanks for the replies folks.
Kodiak, the 110 sounds good, that is what I was considering doing as well, thanks for the input.
Dave,
The 17.5" wheels I bought fit the 8k Dexter axles with the 8 lug nut pattern using the existing 9/16-18 lugs. I bought the 17.5" wheels and Goodyear tires from www.trailertiresandwheels.com, good folks to do business with.
Due to the profile of the tires, the new 17.5" tires/wheels actually sit the trailer about 1/2" LOWER than the old 16" tires. I was concerned that they would raise the trailer 1 1/2", which I didn't want. They mounted and balanced the tires on the wheels, and shipped them to me ready to mount on the trailer. A nice touch since we're in a park in California right now. Rolling them off the UPS truck and taking an hour to mount on my trailer was a painless task!
To those mentioning following the "Owners manual" recommendations... You could only apreciate the humor if you could see the "owners manual" that comes with these trailers... or at least back in 2006! Just an FYI.... there are many folks blowing out tires on these heavy trailers since the "G" rated tires that are supplied on the trailers are running at or near maximum limits with only a few pots and pans loaded in the trailers. Since I bought my trailer, Double Tree now offers a 17.5" option which almost everyone now uses. I wouldn't be suprised if they discontinue offering the 16" tires all together since the trailers are really just too heavy for them!
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texatDurango
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05/18/09 10:23am |
Tech Issues
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Tires - pressure and weights
I am looking for opinions from those who may be more knowlegable about tires than myself.
I have a fifth wheel and just recently had the rig weighed showing how much each wheel weighed as well as the pin and truck weights. I had Goodyear G614 "G" rated tires on the trailer which were rated at 3750 lbs at 110 psi. My individual tire weights ranged from 3200 to 3600 and I wasn't comfortable with being so close to the tires maximum ratings so I switched both tires and wheels.
I now have the Goodyear 17.5" G114 "H" rated tires which are rated at 4850 lbs at 125psi.
Of course I will not be increasing my individual weights, just glad to have the extra margin of safety the added capacity affords and hopefully no more blow outs!
Per the tires rated capacities, the tires can safely support 3695 lbs at only 90 psi going all the way up to 4805 lbs at 125 psi.
My question.... Would it be better on the tire to run at full 125 psi even though I don't need the capacity or run at say 110 psi which gives me 4340 lbs support or even 100 psi which still supports 4020 lbs which is 400 lbs over what the tires will probably average weighing?
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texatDurango
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05/16/09 09:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: At wits end with a water heater problem - help!
... 'tex' will usually share his findings with the group once he's got it resolved.... Eric
Eric my friend, for an old man your memory is pretty good, I do share my opinions and findings freely ;) I see that you now have a motorhome, hope you like it and have time to put lots of miles on it!
Today I had to run into town to pick up some paint so while at Home Depot I decided to pick up a heating element and try another brand of element.
After draining the tank once again, I replaced the latest element with the one from Home Depot and.... I now have hot water! Two weeks worth of aggrivation, half the RV park trying to help me, dozens of online folks trying to help and I had three bad brand new elements!
You know, I am 59 years old and if I've learned anything in life it's that you are always learning something.
If someone would have told me that I could have bought three bad heating elements in a row at Lowes, I would have told them they are crazy but that apparantly is exactly what happened to me.
I will be returning all three elements to Lowes in the morning!
The odd thing is that all three elements showed 9.4 ohms resistance when tested with a brand new multimeter, which according to the Suburban factory tech I spoke with, showed that they were working fine. All three elements are clearly stamped 1500W 120V but someone, either here or at the RV park last week mentioned that they could have been 220v elements labeled wrong and if there is a logical answer to this problem, that is it.
So, I learned to not just rely on the readings of a multimeter to prove something is good or not! If this ever happens to anyone, don't run to Lowes, try Home Depot instead!:B
Thanks to all with their suggestions
George
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texatDurango
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02/28/09 04:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: At wits end with a water heater problem - help!
"it worked fine on our last trip in November but now doesn't work at all"
Something still odd. If the wiring was incorrect, how could it have worked last year.
Did you do anything between last year and this?
Sheff
I returned home from one trip in November and everything was working fine, unhitched and put the fiver under it's awning where I left it unplugged then drained water from all the lines and water heater tank for the winter.
In February I got the fiver ready for a trip the next day, plugged it into shore power, closed the drain lines, filled the hot water tank and put water in the fresh water tank and That is when I noticed the switch to the electric side of the tank was already on. Figuring it was on all the time, even when the tank was emptied, I figured the element was damaged when I applied power earlier in the day so replaced it with a new element, THIS is when this fiasco started, the rest is mentioned above.
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texatDurango
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02/28/09 09:25am |
Tech Issues
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RE: At wits end with a water heater problem - help!
I've got a feeling the OP is going to disappear and we will never really know what happened!!
No I don't think so, 'tex' will usually share his findings with the group once he's got it resolved.
... Eric
Eric and others, Thank you for trying to help with your suggestions. After checking three different elements and the thermostats, draining and refilling 36 gallons of water, 12 gallons at a time, it's time I hitch up and take the trailer to a dealer for repair which was what I was trying to avoid if it was something I could simply change out.
After reading some of the latest posts, I think I'll open the area around the breaker/fuse box and check for any possible loose wiring, who knows, perhaps I might find something. It doesn't make sense but neither does installing three brand new 120v elements in a row!
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texatDurango
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02/28/09 09:14am |
Tech Issues
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RE: At wits end with a water heater problem - help!
Assuming we believe your measurements we also have to believe that the water is not heating even though the heating element is producing heat! Somewhere there is a contradiction and contradictions don't exist. What is wrong?
Then later posted...
I've got a feeling the OP is going to disappear and we will never really know what happened!!
You know Larry, people like you are the PERFECT example of why I stopped posting on this forum after 5,000 or so posts. When someone comes here with a REAL problem, you just sit back and make smug little comments then pick at whatever is posted because you don't BELIEVE what is being said. This is not a cyber game to me, this is a real problem and I guarantee it would have you scratching your head as well!
Assuming we believe your measurements ... What kind of comment is that? I didn't fabricate a little story just to post and have something to talk about over the morning coffee.
Looks like little has changed on this forum over the years, there are those who genuinely want to help fellow RV'rs in need then there are members like you who think of this as simple entertainment.
All I know is what I posted, and if you don't care to try to offer helpful suggestions based on your knowledge or experiences, then don't even post, I'm here trying to figure out a problem that has me stumped and doesn't make any logical sense, not here to read your cute little quips and innuendos!
Since believing what I say is hard for you to accept, I took a few photos of what I am seeing, and NO, the photos aren't doctored to trick anyone!
And as far as the element being in water or not, when you unscrew the element, 12 gallons of water pours onto the ground. That tells me the element was in water!
http://georgeandsirik.com/images/rv%20related/meter1.jpg
http://georgeandsirik.com/images/rv%20related/meter2.jpg
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texatDurango
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02/28/09 09:06am |
Tech Issues
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RE: At wits end with a water heater problem - help!
Did you check your fuse box/breaker panel to make sure your breaker is not flipped off? The electric side goes through a breaker. It's just a thought.
Yes, I'm getting 120v at the heating element itself which screws into the water heater.
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texatDurango
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02/26/09 10:30pm |
Tech Issues
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At wits end with a water heater problem - help!
I have a Suburban hot water heater model SW12DE that works like a charm using propane. Using the electric side does nothing, it worked fine on our last trip in November but now doesn't work at all. Here is what I have done:
1. Changed heating element with a new element which was stamped "1500 watt, 120v".
2. Filled tank with water
3. Flipped switch to turn on 110 power
4. Waited hours and NOTHING, not even luke warm water.
I called Suburban tech support and did what they recommended:
1. Make sure water tank is full then apply power and use multimeter to check to insure voltage is at element. It checked 120 volts meaning thermostat was also working since their tech said the power goes from the source through the thermostat to the element.
2. Turned off power and checked resistance which was 9.4 ohms.
3. Tried another brand new element and still nothing.
As I said, everything works fine under gas so no problem with blocked lines, etc.
Does anyone have any ideas before I hitch up my trailer and haul it 55 miles to the dealer to get this fixed?
Thanks,
George
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texatDurango
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02/26/09 10:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: SWEETHEART VII RALLY,, KERRVILLE, TX Feb. 12 - 15, 2009
"Rules"--What if the person shows up in the same rig but has changed the color of that rig. We look to the one that has the rules on this one. This should be really tuff.It's a no brainer from where I sit. You change the color, you change the look. If it looks different, it is different hince... different rig = Pizza all around! Nothing tuff about it!
For once Terry has the rules correct!
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texatDurango
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01/29/09 10:20am |
Rallies, Shows and Gatherings
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RE: SWEETHEART VII RALLY,, KERRVILLE, TX Feb. 12 - 15, 2009
It's been a while since we've been to a rally, we may have forgotten our manners and etiquette but we'll certainly try to fit in! Please bare with us as we try :)
http://georges-penworks.com/images/rv%20related/flamingowannabe.jpg
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texatDurango
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01/27/09 11:02am |
Rallies, Shows and Gatherings
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