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RE: interesting, mini van and a 31 footer
willald, research your case law, you will find many examples, remember each state is different.No, I think you need to do some research. We all have, and I for one have found NO case of anyone ever being denied insurance coverage for exceeding GCWR. Insurance has to pay for stupid, that's what it's for. If I run a stop light and cause an accident, I'm stupid, but insurance still pays. Like Willald said, if you remove the insurance companies liability to pay for stupid, they'd never write another check.
Caddy, the sad thing is, after this very subject has come up and been discussed over and over and over literally for years, many times with obviously some very intelligent, well-informed legal and insurance professionals joining in the discusion and confirming just what you and I are saying...STILL, some folks like Broncosfan believe this MYTH about insurance, and insist on spreading it. Its as if the BS myths just will never die. :R
Will
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willald
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11/20/09 02:33pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: interesting, mini van and a 31 footer
Yes Caddy make a great point about GCWR rating is only a performance/warranty support number, nothing more. I disagree with both of you that it has ZERO legal basis. If you have spent time in a courtroom, you would see the method of establishing building blocks to arrive at negligence. For example, in some states, if you accidentally kill a person stepping off the sidewalk, while driving over the speed limit (even slightly), it's considered criminal negligence.
I shoulda known to be more specific, as often as this comes up.
When I said zero legal basis, I meant, from a criminal lawsuit standpoint. And, I stand by that. Only in very, very extreme cases, would you ever be at risk of a criminal lawsuit, as a result of towing with something like this.
Now, from a CIVIL lawsuit perspective...No doubt, if you ignore GCWR ratings and hurt or kill someone, any good lawyer for the victim would jump all over that, and you could lose a huge civil case. That would be one of the main reasons no matter how safe these rigs might be, I just won't do it down here in the sue-crazy USA. I think in Canada Andy T can get away with this more, 'cause they aren't so sue-crazy up there.
In many states, if you are found negligent, the car insurance will not cover you.
Ohhhh, geeez! This is the biggest piece of misinformation that gets spewed on here all the time, really wish people would stop spreading that line of BS. It is completely FALSE.
An insurance company may well cancel your policy or raise your rates after a bad wreck if they determine you to be a high risk, but they are NOT ever going to deny paying on it, just over negligence. Like I said, thats one of the biggest pieces of misinformation ever spread on here.
If negligence can make an auto insurance policy null and void....Think about that for a second: Just about EVERYTHING that can cause a car accident, would give the insurance company an out to keep from paying if that was the case. Oh, you were speeding and had a wreck? Oh, you were negligent, insurance ain't gonna pay! LOL, seriously, how can anyone spew that nonsense still, and believe it?
I don't claim to be on one 'side' or the other on this one. Regardless of the subject, though, I *HATE* to see misinformation like this spread.
Will
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willald
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11/20/09 11:08am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: interesting, mini van and a 31 footer
..In the words of Marty:
Munch, Munch, Munch.......glug glug glug.....BUUUUUURRRRRPP!
(then in the background, DW says..."Ewwww, you disgusting pig, stop that, Will!")
:B
Someone pass me the popcorn? And another beer?
Ahhh, this discussion is always fun, and its always the same points being brought up by one side, and refuted by the other.
Andy was very careful to point out in his post, that the Sienna was within all *AXLE* and *TIRE* ratings. And, I believe that is true. However, note he did NOT say it was within GCWR limitations. Big difference there. I think we all know it certainly was not within GCWR.
Of course, as always, Caddy brings up the excellent point that GCWR rating is only a performance/warranty support number, nothing more. Has ZERO legal basis. He's right, too. And, no doubt many GCWR ratings OEMs put on vehicles, can really make you question just how valid they really are. There's lots of examples of that, not the least of which is the point about how minivans have always had that 3500 lb limit, even after years and years of improvements and upgrades to all parts.
Fun, fun, fun. Let the next round begin... :)
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willald
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11/20/09 09:46am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: interesting, mini van and a 31 footer
The minivan cultists should be here with at least two 55-gallon drums of Kool-Aid any minute...And the know-it-all-old-farts who have nothing left to learn are present and accounted for as well.
In Jaraxle's opinion, there hasn't been any worthwhile advances in automotive design since the 1991 Chevy Caprice debuted.
Ouch, that was kinda harsh, Caddy! But, sadly it was also pretty accurate, haha.
I'm only amazed, it took you until the 3rd page to get in the 'ring' on this one. :)
Will
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willald
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11/19/09 11:11am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: interesting, mini van and a 31 footer
Hello Everyone
I can't expect you all to understand how well a front drive van performs as a tow vehicle when you have not had the oportunity to drive one properly set up with a well matched trailer. I can tell you that we have set up over 1000 front drive vans for towing since 1998 and have millions of kilometers of towing experience with them. None of the disasters some like to predict have happened. These vans have more payload than many 1/2 ton trucks they will also out stop most trucks with the trailer and they will outhandle all of them. You cannot get a better tow vehicle layout than a front drive van.
If you are generally interested in towing systems and tow vehicles we are more than happy to share our experience. If you are ever in the London area feel free to stop in and take some of our combiantions out for a test drive. I think you will be amazed.
I would ask that you please refrain from exageration or heresay. We have set up over 500 front drive GM sedans and we have never had a problem like doors popping open. If this did happen somehow it was not one of our combinations with one of our hitch receivers.
Thanks for listening.
Andy
Wow, the minivan cultists didn't waste any time, and immediately brought in the big guns, sent in their grand leader himself, Andy Thomson, to start this 'battle'. :)
Hehe, all joking and sarcasm aside, its rare we get to hear from Andy on here, but always interesting, and I actually enjoy reading his posts. Many of us may ultimately disagree with some of the combinations he puts together, but the overall experience and knowledge he has of towing principles, you have to respect.
As to the specific combination here: I can't see it due to firewall restrictions, but I'll check it out later this evening when I get home, see what we're talking about here. If its an Airstream set up by Andy and his gang, its probably much safer than many would think (although I personally still would not do it).
..Let the battle rage on. I have my good ringside seat, a big bowl of popcorn, and a drink... :)
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willald
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11/19/09 06:41am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: What kind of battery to buy for TT?
Yeah, go back to the dealer and ask for the manuals.
And while you're there, ask him for the battery he should have given you when you bought the trailer. Especially since in many states, it would have been ILLEGAL to be without the battery, since that would mean the trailer brakes would not engage if the trailer separated from the tow vehicle. Pretty much would make the emergency break-away cable worthless.
Seriously, I think in most states, dealers are required by law to give you some kind of battery. Otherwise the trailer is not legal on the road (there again, depending on specific state laws, size of trailer, etc).
Anyway, to answer your original question: If you truly will only camp at campgrounds and always will have hookups, then you can get by with a simple, cheap group 24 starting battery. Which is what the dealer will probably give you.
If you ever plan to camp without hookups, though, you'll want to look at a battery upgrade..
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willald
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11/17/09 02:27pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Does a digital thermostat cause more cycling of furnace?
Haha, I knew relating that technician's comments would stir up quite a hornet's nest here, and it did. :) This is why I've hesitated for some time, to say anything (it was back in August when the technician came out to our site).
I don't proclaim to know 100% one way or the other, and there are some very valid points made here, to suggest there really is no harm done in using a '3rd party' thermostat. Could just be that a unit used 'part-time' like so many RVs are, have just a few extra 'cycles' to spare, like Gale said.
I just wanted to relate what the RV service professional thats been working on these units for a living longer than most of us have been camping, had to say on the subject. The fact that another RV professional on here, javaseuf, disagrees....Hahaha, I'm not sure what to think. Until I find an after-market thermostat that includes a switch for low/hi fan, as well as switching between furnace and A/C...Well, I'll stick with what I have.
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willald
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11/17/09 07:44am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Does a digital thermostat cause more cycling of furnace?
Yes, it would cycle more often. Which kinda brings me to a conversation I had some time ago, with a (very good, knowledgeable) RV service technician once:
We recently had a minor problem with the A/C, and had a mobile RV technician come out to our campsite to fix it. Great guy, knew his stuff really well, and very reasonable rates. Anyone need a mobile RV mechanic around Charlotte, NC area, PM me, I'll give you his number.
Anyway, I mentioned to him the idea I'd read about on here, about replacing the thermostat with the digital ones you can buy many places. He told me in no uncertain terms, that replacing the thermostat with one that was not designed specfically to work with your A/C unit (i.e, buying a Hunter digital thermostat to work with a Dometic or Coleman A/C), is asking for trouble, and a very BAD idea.
May well work OK for a while, but fact is you are changing the cycling frequency, etc. to something that the A/C unit was not designed to do. He told me he has replaced many, MANY entire A/C units, because people put on those digital thermostats, and eventually broke something with the main A/C unit. If you want the A/C to last and work within the design parameters it was intended for, his advice was to stick with using a thermostat that was made specifically to work with your actual A/C unit.
I know that this is a popular mod, so many will disagree and get defensive saying they've done this mod and never had a problem for years. And they'll probably question if this RV tech knew what he's talking about. I'll answer that last question now: I spoke with this guy for a long time, and can tell you he's beeng working on various RV systems for many, MANY years, and he knows what he is talking about. I don't doubt that these digital thermostats work and are an improvement, and its obvious from posts on here that some 'get away with this' without any problems for a long time. HOWEVER, I think I'm going to stick with the advice of the RV professional that works on RV A/C units for a living, and stick with the Dometic thermostat ours came with.
Flame suit: ON. :)
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willald
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11/16/09 06:54am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Putting sewer hose in bumper
You can count me as one more 'vote', for not ever putting the sewer hose in the bumper. Learned that lesson the hard way, after rust in the bumper destroyed a hose with pinholes.
Do this long enough, and not only will you replace a couple sewer hoses over the years, eventually you could get to replace the bumper as well, when the rust eats all the way through the bumper. Good friend of mine recently bought a used trailer (2000 model), that rear bumper was rusted all the way through on the bottom, 'cause previous owners did this.
I built a chute on top of the bumper for this, out of PVC pipe. Works great - no worries about wasps and other critters, no rust in there, so sewer hose lasts forever basically. One other advantage to this approach nobody has mentioned: PVC pipe is big enough that nearly all attachments stay on the sewer hose all the time. No need to assemble/disassemble that thing every time. This would be the case if you built the chute out of fence post as well, which I know many people have done.
I'm actually thinking about relocating the chute, though, and putting it under the trailer, so that the opening to it is close to sewer outlet. Keep it close to its point of use. That, and it will free up the top of the bumper to build a rack to store our blue tote tank, another mod I'm thinking about doing.
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willald
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11/16/09 06:38am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Lexan or plexiglass on my screen door
..Can't see your pictures, mhawk4, due to firewall restrictions, but I'll be sure to check them out when I get home later this evening. Glad to see that you got this done successfully. :)
Yes, I too wanted the plexiglas to be inside the frame of the door, which was another reason I chose not to mess with velcro. Hadn't thought about it keeping bugs from getting between screen and plexiglas, but you're right, this approach definitely would keep that from happening as much.
Ohh, yes, I had same problem with getting screws the right length that hold the clips. Very easy to get ones that are too long, there's not a lot of room to work with there, but they do hold very well once you get them in.
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willald
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11/13/09 07:30am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Lexan or plexiglass on my screen door
I have 2 full seasons and my velcro is fine...I wouldn't mind if I had to replace the velcro every 3 years....Still looks better than the clips.
..But you might mind it if one day the whole panel falls out at 3am, like what happened to one poster (see links below). :)
Never had any issuies with my Velcro installation, and going on four years. Curious where you found that "many" regretted using Velcro.
Found them right here on RV.net. Here's some links:
Clicky
clicky
clicky
clicky
Hehe, This was one mod I did all kinds of research, reading, thinking, etc. before deciding not to fool with velcro. May well be that velcro works in some situations, but I still would prefer not to mess with it. I like the clips much better.
One other cool thing about using clips: It allows you to cut the plexiglas such that it fits up inside the frame of the door. That way, the frame is supporting most of the weigt, not the clips (or velcro). My plexiglas pieces will almost stay in place without even having to twist the clips over it.
Anyway, like JBarca said, regardless of the specifics of how you do this, its a great mod, and one I highly recommend.
Will
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willald
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11/10/09 10:11pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Lexan or plexiglass on my screen door
So I take it the best way to attach it is to screw it to the frame? I`ve been wanting to do this for awhile, but I want to make it easily removeable so I can remove/insatll it a couple of times in a weekend. you know windows open or closed.
Velcro is the neatest and easiest way. Looks way cleaner than the clips people use.
..But velcro also does not last, as many will tell you that took this approach and later on wished they had not. The adhesive on the back of that velcro eventually wears out.
Clips OTOH, will last forever basically. Very easy to remove/install the plexiglas also. Just rotate all the clips to the side, plexiglas comes right out.
Dodge_guy: Somewhere, I have some pictures of our installation, with the clips. I'll try to dig them up later this evening, get them posted here so you can see how it looks/works.
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willald
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11/10/09 07:51am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Couple of Problems
1. Yep, check valve has become unseated, as skipnchar said. Same thing happened to me once, ended up having to replace the valve as a result. Since then, I stopped doing that (pushing button inside inlet valve) when winterizing. Not anxious to have to replace that valve again. I question the need to do that, anyway, if you do all the other winterizing steps properly. We haven't in years, and never have had a problem.
2. Anode rod is fine, put it back in and don't worry about it.
One thing you can do that will extend the life of that anode rod SIGNIFICANTLY as well as avoid other water heater related problems, is this:
Drain out the water heater after every camping trip before you head home, and leave it empty until next trip. This way, tank only has water in it while you're camping. Will make your anode rod last a LOT longer, since it won't be immmersed in water near as much. That, and it means you're towing a good 60-80 lbs less weight down the road (water is heavy). We've been doing that for 2 years now, and anode rod has only wore a tiny bit in those 2 years.
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willald
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11/05/09 11:11am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Lexan or plexiglass on my screen door
..Lots of different ways to do this mod, and naturally everyone will tell you their way is best. This is definitely a great one to do, though, regardless of the specifics of how you do it.
As already said, some just leave the center part out, and only install plexiglas (orlexan) on top and bottom part. That way the sliding piece and the latch are not a problem.
We did this mod a few years ago, and my solution was, I installed the plexiglas on the OUTSIDE of screen door, and this allowed me to cover entire door, including the center part without a problem. Slider is on inside, so it does not get in the way. By installing it on the outside, the handle in the center is not in the way, and you can cover that area with plexiglas like the rest of the door. Yes, you do leave out a square 'hole' right where the latch is (regardless whether installed on inside or out), so you can reach the latch.
As for the other question, about securing door so pets (or kids, lol) don't accidentally push it open: Yep, we had that problem, and solved it by installing a small 'hook and eye' latch right above the slider on the screen door. Keeps door from accidentally pushing open, and can be latched/unlatched easily from inside or outside. Very simple, and effective mod. :)
As to Lexan vs Plexiglas...Hehe, thats another one you'll get all kinds of opinions on. Lexan is definitely better if you don't mind spending the extra $$ for it. I chose plexiglas, and its worked great so far. If I had it to do over...I'm not sure which one I'd go with, either will work OK. Would depend on how much $$ I had available for the project. Only disadvantage to lexan (besides price) is, its a bit heavier and thicker. The extra thickness may make it tougher to fit the way you want.
One thing I will say, concerning how you attach the plexiglas in place: Do NOT take the tempting, easy way out using velcro strips. Most folks who do that, eventually regret it later, and wish they had not. Reason being, those velcro pieces eventually peel off and quit working, and plexiglas will fall off. Best approach is to use a bunch of clips/tabs that you attach to screen door frame with screws. They won't wear out and lose their effectiveness like velcro will with time.
As already said, best to let the place you buy the material from do as much of the cutting as possible. Especially the long, straight cuts, they'll typically do as many of those as you want. Curved cuts, though, you'll have to do yourself. Easy enough to do with a jigsaw, just have to be patient and cautious.
Oh, one other thing: Save, and plan carefully the scrap pieces of lexan/plexiglas you have left over. We used the extra pieces, to cover the back walls around the stove in the trailer with plexiglas. This helps protect the wallpaper and make it much easier to keep clean from grease splatters, etc. I've seen folks also cover the walls around/near the toilet in the bathroom with plexiglas as well, for same reasons.
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willald
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11/05/09 07:06am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: keeping fridge cold while travelling
..Like pghfan said above, we've found there is absolutely no need 95% of the time when travelling, to leave propane on. If you turn frig on a day or two before you leave, let it get cold, and also put your food in it a day or so before you leave so its good and cold, too.....You can easily travel almost all day with frig/propane off, and everything will stay perfectly cold, so long as you don't open the frig any.
There is no need to waste propane cooling the frig, so long as you don't open the frig any when travelling, and don't travel more than 8 hours or so at a time. Doing so just wastes propane, that I'd rather save for when I get there and REALLY need it for things like heat, cooking, etc.
Now, on the very rare occasions we stop along the way and have to open the frig (like if we have lunch in the trailer), in that case I will turn on the propane and let it run some.
I have no concerns about running frig on propane when travelling, from a safety standpoint. However, I just find that for the way we travel/camp, 95% of the time there is simply no reason whatsoever to do it, so I don't waste the propane.
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willald
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11/04/09 02:53pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Hurricane output announced
Wow. Never woulda thought the 6.2 V8 would put out that kind of torque. Thats more torque than my V10 produces, and obscenely more horsepower! Good for Ford, hope it works out good for them. I'll be very curious to see the torque curve, though, and see just how hard you have to twist that engine to get 434 ft-lbs of torque from it.
Its great to know that Ford will still have a good gasser choice in their superduty pickups after the V10 is gone. That is very good news for those of us that tow large trailers and want NOTHING to do with the new diesels and all the emissions junk they have. I was 'bout to think our V10 Excursion was gonna have to last us the rest of this lifetime, glad to see that may not be the case now. :)
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willald
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11/03/09 09:06am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Added a Tornado Black Tank Rinser today...
I have two questions. one, I hear that the earlier Toronado's broke faily often, is this still true?
..Don't know if its still true or not, I too have heard about Tornado rinsers failing. However, an easy solution to that, is to avoid the Tornado rinser, and get one of the older 'Quickie Flush' units, that doesn't have any moving parts, and never has had this problem. Thats what we have, and its always worked great for us (had it for several years now).
can the toronado be instlled towards one or the other ends of the tank or do they have to be installed in the middle. My Jayco has a cut out in the frame about 2/3 from the front of the tank it would be a lot easier to install it through the hole, other wise I have to drop the tank. These two questions are the only reason I don't have one now. THANKS for any info.
..I think its best if you can install in the middle of the tank. However, I see no reason why you couldn't install it closer toward the end so you could use that cut-out in the frame. Worst case, it may just not do quite as good a job at rinsing/cleaning the tank, but it'd still do no worse than conventional methods (tank wand, flush king, etc), and probably would be better. Its best if you can install the flush unit so that its water 'jets' spray directly on the sensors. Thats the part you want to get clean, so they will work and give accurate readings.
Will
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willald
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11/02/09 11:03am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Added a Tornado Black Tank Rinser today...
You can no longer use them around here in Ontario Provincial Parks. For some reason the park system felt it necessary to create a problem where there was none and install nozzles with backflow prevention on them, thus rendering all tank flush systems useless.
Ummmm...What???
A backflow preventer, is actually already included with most tank rinsers, and for very good reasons. Adding a 2nd one in the water nozzle at the dump station, would make almost ZERO difference in the use of a tank flush system.
I'm at a complete loss to understand how/why you think that adding a backflow preventer would affect the use of a tank rinser?? Its actually a very good idea for the park to do that, to protect their water system from getting contaminated. I agree with their decision to do that. It would NOT affect the use/operation of a tank rinser, though.
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willald
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11/02/09 10:56am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Charge - faster from TV or Converter?
As already said, charging with the tow vehicle is terribly inefficient, due to how little amperage can go across the small wires going to the trailer.
Of course, depending on what converter your trailer has, you may have similar limitations even when recharging by plugging into A/C (or a generator). Many trailers come with cheap converters, that only put a tiny amount of current to the batteries when recharging.
If you must re-charge with the tow vehicle, you could do so much more efficiently (give the trailer batteries more boost much quicker) by simply running a pair of jumper cables from the tow vehicle's battery to trailer battery while vehicle is running.
Not something I'd suggest making a habit out of for the obvious reasons. But, for an occasional quick re-charging, it can work OK and allow you to charge your batteries fairly quickly, without having to run the tow vehicle for very long.
If you plan to do a lot of camping 'off the grid' without electricity, I would suggest that eventually you look at doing the following:
1. Upgrade batteries to a pair of TRUE deep-cycle 6 volt batteries.
2. Upgrade converter to a good, 3-stage 'smart charging' converter, if you don't already have one
3. Consider getting a small, quiet Generator for charging the batteries.
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willald
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10/29/09 11:36am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: cheap and easy mat for outside
What size mats do most of you prefer, and why? We're just getting into camping again and are needing a new mat.
We like having one 'bout the same size as our awning, that way entire space under the awning is covered by a mat. Obviously, though, everyone is going to have different ideas/preferences for this.
That is actually why we recently bought a new mat - when we traded up to the trailer we have now, the awning 'grew' some, so naturally the mat had to 'grow' some as well. :)
Was just looking at that rvawningmats.com website, they have some nice stuff there. We have a mat almost exactly like what they sell, highly recommend them.
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willald
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10/29/09 06:47am |
General RVing Issues
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