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RE: Sewer Hose Storage
Here's one more vote for the PVC pipe 'garage'. Thats what we did, and I'd have it no other way.
Tore up one sewer hose from rust inside the bumper scraping it 'til it tore pinholes, then we learned our lesson and stopped putting the hose in there.
Also have a close friend that recently bought a used trailer, where the rear bumper is rusted all the way through on the bottom, from previous owner storing the hose in there. Now it needs a new bumper. Sooo, if you store a hose in that bumper long enough, you might get to replace a bumper, too.
One other advantage to building a PVC storage chute: Do it right, and you can keep many if not all the attachments on the hose even when stored. No more having to assemble/disassemble everything. The less you have to touch that hose, the better, if ya know what I mean. :)
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willald
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03/19/10 01:44pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: not sure how to read this response from a CG re:firerings?
I just rechecked our rates and it really isnt double, wonder if I should change my reservation
Kinda getting off the subject of your thread here, but..
If you plan on being at the park more than 1 day, I would seriously consider eating the extra cost, and staying at Camp Wilderness. Then, you never have to fool with driving back and forth to the park, parking, etc. Just ride the shuttle to/from the park.
Also, you can come back to your campsite for breaks, lunch, etc. if you want, and avoid paying the obscene prices they charge inside the park for food (and it is OBSCENELY expensive to buy any kind of food/drink inside the park, let me tell you). The savings there alone may well make up the difference in what it costs you to stay at Camp Wilderness.
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willald
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03/19/10 01:13pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: not sure how to read this response from a CG re:firerings?
KOA fort Mill-- we are taking the kids to the opening weekend of Carowinds.
Ahh. Hehe, exactly the one I suspected when you said this, and not surprising at all. Been through that KOA before, its a very simple, bare bones CG, doesnt seem like much more than a big piece of land behind a gas station that they made into a campground (and the gas station actually is the CG front office, haha).
Have you looked into staying at the campground that Carowinds has right there at their park, Camp Wilderness? Very convenient, includes a free shuttle that runs back and forth to the park every hour or so. Probably a bit more expensive than the KOA, but much nicer IMO.
Anyway, just thought I'd throw that out, in the off chance you hadnt seen the Carowinds Campground option.
Will
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willald
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03/19/10 11:11am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: not sure how to read this response from a CG re:firerings?
Hmmm, thats a good one. How would a fire be more safe, if its not in a firering?? Maybe they're just worried about someone tripping over the firering, I don't know.
Being that I live just outside of Charlotte and know the area well, I'm very curious as to what campground this is that told you this? Might you share that with us?
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willald
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03/19/10 10:46am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Best Garage Sale Visit Ever.
Wow. You caught somebody that either had no idea what they had and what it was worth, or was very, very desperate to get rid of it (or maybe both, haha). Possibly a divorce case, and someone was trying to dump off some of the ex's stuff quickly without any concern for what its really worth? Either way, you made out like a bandit there. :)
That hitch alone you paid $250 for is EASILY worth well over $1000, provided its in good working condition. You could put that thing on hitch trader and easily get that much for it and turn a nice profit. Thats exactly what I would have done if I saw one for that cheap.
Haha, I almost feel sorry for the guy you bought it from. Quite frankly, they got ripped off, selling it that cheap.
Anyway, good luck with it. Don't expect to run into a deal like that again, haha. :)
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willald
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03/17/10 06:51am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: E-Z UP shelter advice, please
..We've had our EZ-up for many years, goes all the way back to our tent camping days. Its always worked great for us. We take it with us anytime we're going to be somewhere for several days. Plan on using it shortly, when we'll be camping at Myrtle Beach for a week.
I've never experienced the problem with water piling up on top and collapsing it. Nor has wind ever been a problem. Yes, you definitely need to stake it down good, especially if its windy (kinda goes without saying). But, we've used ours on the beach where its constantly windy, never has the wind ever picked it up. Rain has never been a problem, either. We've had it up for a week at a time, too, when camping on the beach. Never had it break loose yet, not has water ever piled up in the middle. Only thing thats worn out and torn some over the years, is the case it is stored in.
Only thing I'll say about it: It aint exactly 'easy' to set up as its name implies. Takes a bit of effort to get the roof pieces to come up right. One person *can* do it, but much easier with two. We refer to ours as the 'not so EZ-UP'. :)
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willald
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03/16/10 09:22am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Odd experience at camping world
I found that since we started draining out the water heater before heading home after each trip, so water heater only has water in it when camping.....Our anode rod does not wear hardly AT ALL. Its literally been in there 2 years, and still looks almost brand new.
When you minimize the (unnecessary) time that water is in there, you really can extend the life of the anode rod a lot.
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willald
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03/12/10 02:30pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Ok now i'm worried, should i be?
Looks like from the pictures on your website, that you have one of the 1st generation Durangos. Depending on which engine you have and gear ratio, your max towing capacity is somewhere between 4500 lbs and 7500 lbs, IIRC (probably 5000). I actually used to own a Durango very similar to yours.
Anyway, I don't think you need to worry about the total weight of the trailer much, you're in pretty good shape there. I'd worry much more about the trailer brake issue, as already said. With that much trailer, you definitely need trailer brakes. Troll3193 gave some excellent advice along those lines in the previous post, I'd concentrate on getting that (and a brake controller) done first.
Oh, one other note: Looks like from your website, that you have weight distribution bars/setup, but are not able to use it, due to bars not fitting right? If thats true, you need to take care of that ASAP also. Towing with a Durango without using weight distribution, will be very, very bad news on the road. Your front end will bounce/'porpoise' like all get-out, and could cause serious swaying issues. I know, 'cause I tried that with our Durango with a much lighter trailer, and it was a nightmare. Was literally the worst-handling combo I've ever driven (until I put weight distribution bars on, then it was fine).
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willald
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03/12/10 02:19pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: RV's turning into first home.
See, this is actually one of the good things IMO, about owning an RV. If things go terribly wrong financially, and you are forced to lose your house....An RV can provide you with a temporary, inexpensive place to live, until things turn around and you can get back on your feet again.
Obviously, you NEVER want to have to use your RV for that purpose, and pray it never happens. Most RVs would not stand up too well to full-time use like that for very long. However, if push came to shove, I think temporarily staying in your RV would sure beat a cardboard box on the street, or throwing away tons of $$ renting an apartment.
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willald
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03/11/10 10:32am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: STEADY FAST or JT Stronarms?
I looked into these once, almost bought a set of the Steadyfast units. Really liked them, but just wasn't crazy about the footpads you had to use, and the $$ it cost. Sooo, I set about making my own stabilizer bars.
You can make your own version of some stabilizer bars like the ones described here, like I did. Parts to build two stabilizer bars can all be bought at Lowe's for less than $40, and works great.
Check out my thread HERE, where I outlined the specifics of how I built these, pictures of it, and how it worked out.
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willald
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03/11/10 08:26am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: insecure or inconsiderate
I'm thinking, the fact that the power is basically free when camping is part of the motivation for this, too.
Hahahaha, let parks set it up so that you pay per kilowatt-hour of electricity you use while parked, and you'd see a LOT of changes in the way people camp. Suddenly, people would no longer need 3 air conditioners running full blast 24/7 in their rigs. And, suddenly folks wouldn't need the massive 1,000 watt scare lights burning all night. ;)
Its like anything else - you want to change things, hit folks where it counts and where they'll sit up and pay attention - $$$. :)
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willald
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03/11/10 08:18am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: How long can I get away with it....
..I think we're forgetting, the OP said only WEEKEND use, during that 8 weeks, did he not? He didn't say 8 weeks of continous use, that'd be a whole different story obviously.
Still, strictly talking weekend use for 8 weeks, you're talking about 16 days worth of 'use' there. Still too long for a black tank to last, especially if the occasional 'solid' waste will be put in it.
If towing the trailer off to a dump station is not an option, I really like jcrawford's option #2 here:
2. Call a portable john company to come pump your tanks out when needed.
If you're only talking weekend use those 8 weeks, you probably would only have to dump the tank twice, three times at most. Find out what it'd cost to have a company come out and drain it for you. Probably won't be cheap, but if you really, really want to avoid towing the trailer to a dump station, that may well be what you have to do.
Oh, and jcrawford's #3 option, doing like a bear in the woods....That'd definitely work, too, hahaha. :)
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willald
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03/05/10 09:48am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Goodyear Marathons or Maxxis Tires?
A few years ago, back when Goodyear was making their Marathons in China, and there were so many reports of those things disintegrating, I'd have said no question - get the Maxxis. They (Maxxis) are one of only a few trailer tire brands that its very hard to find any negative reviews/reports on.
However, IMO things have changed now that GY moved production of their Marathons back to the USA recently, and we're not hearing reports anymore of these USA made Marathon tires disintegrating since then. If the Marathons you are looking at say 'made in USA' on them, then I'd say either one (Maxxis or GY Marathon) would be a good choice. It would just come down to best price, best service provided by seller, warranty, etc.
I replaced all 4 of the tires on our trailer 'bout 2 years ago, and at the time GY Marathons were still being made in China, so I didn't want anything to do with them. I went with a set of Maxxis tires, and they've been excellent.
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willald
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03/04/10 09:40am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Excursion Questions
I thought that *all* Excursions from day 1 had the tranny temp gauge, did they not? Ours does, and every Excursion I've seen, has a tranny temp gauge.
Perhaps the 2004 model you looked at had an after-market, more accurate tranny temp gauge installed? The one on the dash that comes from the factory is s a little lacking, and some have added better after-market temp gauges as a result.
I'm pretty certain that all Excursions always had the tranny cooler as well.
As to which one to buy: I'd go with the 2004 with the 4.30 gearing, no question! V10 with 4.30 gears is a towing BEAST, and is 'bout the best it gets without going diesel. There are a few on here that swapped out 3.73 gears for 4.30s in their V10 Excursions, and were very pleased with the difference in towing prowess (a mod that I'd love to do to our Excursion, one of these days). That, and I think you'll find that the 2001 model may have a slightly lower rated hitch receiver than the 2004 model. Ford upgraded the receiver on the Excursions long about 2002 I believe.
Can definitely understand why you'd be tempted to get the 2001 model with that few miles on it, but I think I'd be worried about a 9 year old vehicle thats only been driven 8,000 miles. Sounds like its been sitting a LOT, which ain't good for a vehicle.
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willald
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03/02/10 12:22pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Travel Trailer Supports while at the campground
but deploying 4 mounted stabilizer jacks(which require you having, getting/using and storing a crank or even worse an electric screwdriver that needs to be charged and the socket/extension, etc.),
LOL. Yep, I use a cordless drill. Same one I use to work the WD jacks for Hensley hitch. Soo, I need the cordless drill anyway for the hitch, no extra effort just for the jacks.
Are you REALLY going to suggest that bending down and getting under your trailer to set up and put away 4 screw jacks, and manually twisting the screw on them to get them in place, is less work than walking around the trailer with a cordless drill, letting it do the work on stabilizer jacks? Larry, man, you're really reaching, LOL.
Battery need to be charged? LOL, thats a good one, too. I have yet to EVER have to charge the batteries, when camping. Battery gets charged when I get home, and stays charged up ready for next trip. You're reaching reaaaallly hard there. :)
...then installing 4 or six add on stabilizer bars which have to be removed and stored along with the extra between-the-axle C jacks which also have to be stored, brought out with the total wt. of all that probably being close to 100lbs and has to take up more room than a set of 10 lynx levelers which is about what my four alum jacks take up storage wise and probably weigh a good 90lbs less than all that hardware you are using to accomplished what I do just seems like a lot of unnecessary expense and work for what it's buying you. ON EDIT: while the JT stabilzer bars don't need to be removed, but WOW almost $400 incl shipping that is one expensive addition to fix a basically flawed design/installation IMHO. You must have close to $600+ dollars invested in the cost of the original stabilizer jacks, the stabilizer bars if JT, and the two C jacks for between the wheels
Guess again, Larry. Go back to my first post in this thread, and go to the link I gave, that shows the stabilizer bars I made myself, for less than $40. Not JTs, just 2 3/4" electric conduits from Lowe's for $5 apiece, pluse some other small hardware. And, as you'll see from the pictures I posted, they stay right in place, no need to install or uninstall them. Like I said, go back and read my first post on this thread, and go to that link. You should know the thread I linked to there, 'cause you commented in that thread, too. Remember? ;)
And, the C jacks? No, they are NOT stored, they are permanently mounted, between the TT axles. I have a thread documenting that on here, too. Do a search, you'll find it. No removing and storing necessary, and they raise/lower with the cordless drill, too. ;)
Original cost of stabilizer jacks? Nope, they were standard on the trailer, wasn't an optional item. Sooo, no cost there, really.
I guess one might have a vested interest when one has spent all that money vs. just keeping it simply for around the $30 cost of 4 aluminum screw jacks like HappyTrails and I now use one would have to admit they have wasted $$$ and made things much more complicated than it needs to be.
..Gee, that kinda sounds like the same thing we could say about a LOT of the discussions on here, huh? Diesel vs gas, high end hitch vs conventional....We could go on all day with that, huh?
Vested interest...LOL. My only 'vested interest' is in trying to support the trailer's frame at least close to the way the manufacturer recommends, 'cause I need my trailer to last a while, and can't afford to be replacing it every few years like some do, when frame warping creates serious issues later on.
You set up your rig using your aluminum jacks, etc. the way you normally do. Then we'll then have a neutral party come and walk around in both trailers. Whichever trailer the neutral person determines feels the most solid inside, the other one has to buy two cases of beer for us to drink that weekend 'round the campfire! What'cha say? :B
LOL, I'll pass since I don't drink beer so I wouldn't have any use for your beer when you loose :W
Nice sounding excuse there, hahahaha! :B
Annnnnywaaay, go ahead, Larry, and post again, since you seem to really want the last word. You can have it, I'm done with this. Been fun, though. :)
Will
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willald
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03/01/10 09:34pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Travel Trailer Supports while at the campground
Well I would bet my next paycheck that you can easily put more than 400 lbs of upward pressure twice the distance from the axles than I am by tightening up those factory installed "stabilizer" jacks especially the sissors type jacks at the very ends of say a 30' trailer. Also, one really doesn't know just how much upward force one is putting at each corner which can vary corner to corner. Because of the consistency of my procedure I would bet I'm putting a more consistent and known upward force on each of my jack stands each time.
Right, but you're putting that pressure at a point on the frame much further in from the stabilizer jacks. And, based on a previous thread where you and I had discussed this same issue, it was pretty clear you were putting a LOT more than any 400 lbs on those jacks. Perhaps in your test today you only put on 400 lbs, but based on what you told me in another thread..You were putting a LOT more than that on them, to stabilize the trailer like you did.
BTW, I have never recommended doing what I am....
You don't recommend doing what you are doing, yet you bring it up and explain how much better your approach is, every time the subject comes up of ways to improve stabilizer jacks?? Ummm, sure sounds to me like you are recommending it, in a round about way.
Well, anyway, we can go back and forth on this all day, Larry, but it doesn't accomplish much. Bottom line is, like I said before: Many of us prefer to support our trailers in a way that is consistent with manufacturer recommendations. Many also like the convenience of jacks that are hard-mounted where needed, and don't have to be stored somewhere, taken out and put back away, etc. In that case, stabilizer bars like was the original topic of this discussion, are a great idea to shore things up.
On a less serious note: Someday, Larry, you and I need to meet up at a campground. Let me deploy my scissor jacks and stabilizer bars, between-the-axles C jacks and wheel chocks, etc. the way I normally do. You set up your rig using your aluminum jacks, etc. the way you normally do. Then we'll then have a neutral party come and walk around in both trailers. Whichever trailer the neutral person determines feels the most solid inside, the other one has to buy two cases of beer for us to drink that weekend 'round the campfire! What'cha say? :B
Will
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willald
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03/01/10 02:41pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Travel Trailer Supports while at the campground
As a final check I just went and put my sherline scale under the rear jack support location, raised the tongue till I got a reading just off zero on the sherline and then raise the tongue exactly 1". At that point I had just over 400lbs pressure at that jack point. That pressure would go down slightly by installing the front jacks and relieving all the pressure on the tongue jack, but I did not measure the actual numbers since it's cold and windy outside now and I'm just too lazy to go thru all that effort. Thus I'm putting enough upward pressure directly under the frame rail close to the axle and suspension to off set someone like me that weighs 210lbs from causing the suspension to flex.
So I guess if you're worried about putting 400lbs of pressure directly under a frame rail a 7500GVWR trailer over a distance of 6 to 8' from an axle concern for twisting a frame rail O.K. ... I'm not:B
Larry
..Suffice it to say, that you're oversimplifying the matter quite a bit, and leaving out specifics of the stress that your approach puts on the frame in various ways. There's more to it than just the downward 400lbs of pressure you mentioned.
But, anyway, like you, I'm too lazy to get into a 50 page Physics analysis on this subject like some posters on here do. Soo, we'll just leave it that its great your solution works for you, but there are many of us that prefer supporting our trailers in a manner thats more consistent with the manufacturer's recommendations. For those folks, shoring up the stabilizer jacks with various stabilizers is a great idea, and can really help a lot.
Will
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willald
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03/01/10 09:40am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Travel Trailer Supports while at the campground
You are misreading what I'm actually doing. I AM NOT LIFTING THE TRAILER. It's hard to explain, but if you have done it you would understand that all I'm doing is getting a good pressure on the jack stands w/o wrenching on the screw jacks and but using the electric tongue jack to do that. I've checked and I have the tor-flex type axles and the center of the axle is only raised about 1/4" and the tires are still firmly planted on the ground. To actually lift a wheel off the ground when using a bottle jack between the axles on the frame the center of each wheel has to be raise a good 1 to 2" before a wheel comes off the ground.
The key to what I'm doing is providing good support with no slop or play in the supports much closer to the axles which is where the bounce comes from due to suspension travel from the extra wt. of someone moving around in the trailer and providing that support directly under the frame rail. When done my 4 jacks are only 15 to 16' apart or just over 1/2 the length of each frame rail. I'm accomplishing the same as those that have put extra sets of stabilizer jacks closer to the wheels which provides more stability. I thus have three support locations, the tongue jack and then about 11' behind that two screw jacks and 8 and 10 feet behind them the two axles and then about 23' from the tongue jack two more screw jacks.
ON EDIT I just went out and using a tape measure measured how much the frame drops at the rear screw jack location I'm using when I raise the tongue 1" and the frame drops less than 1/2" at that point.
taborekle may have misunderstood what you are doing, Larry, but I understand perfectly. And, my comments above, that I've said in another thread where this came up, still stands:
This approach may well work with your trailer, and you may not have any problems with the frame of your trailer in the future. HOWEVER, without some very convincing documentation from a really good source (like the manufacturer of the frame), I don't think what you are doing is something we should be recommending to folks. Too many trailers are built today with lightweight frames, that likely would warp or bend with time from doing what you are doing to your trailer. For those trailers (and as general advice to the common TT owner), I think its better to focus on ways of improving the existing corner stabilizer jacks. As is outlined here and in other threads, there are numerous ways to shore them up, without spending much $$ at all.
Will
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willald
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03/01/10 09:17am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Travel Trailer Supports while at the campground
I have to wonder if putting the jackstands that LarryJM recommended on the frame and far from the wheels is a good idea.
On the one hand, the normal placement of the stabilizing jacks that come with most trailers is at the END of the frame. So if you over-snug these up (and I have from time to time), you're basically lifting the RV from the frame ends. That's why I see over and over in these threads the admonishion to posters that they are stabiliizer jacks and not leveling jacks.
But these jackstands that LarryJM has put out easily could take the weight of most RV's, and if you're snugging them up tight enough to eliminate bounce, I would think that most of the weight is off the wheels and tires, and has been moved to the jackstands. The RV is now being supported at frame points that it was never meant to be supported at.
I also think that some RV's are better suited to take this then others. I own a Ultra Light Spree, and it's C channel frame might not take it as well as LarryJM's RV frame.
And I'm recalling a post to a thead some time back that was about lifting the RV on stands for winter storage and getting the wheels off the ground, and someone posted that they use to work at a RV storage facility and knew of RV's that had their frames bent from such storage techniques.
Anyone have any thoughts or insight on this?
Yes, taborekle. Larry and I have discussed this before, his method of putting so much weight on the jack stands he uses. And, I basically said the same thing you're implying:
I'm glad it works for him, but I would NOT recommend this approach to anyone, unless they have on pretty good authority (like the trailer frame manufacturer), some documentation indicating that the trailer frame can handle being supported this way. I'm betting many trailers will not take well to it, and doing so will eventually cause some problems. Especially many of the lite trailers that are built today on frames that aren't quite so stout. Too much risk there, of doing serious damage long term.
Put it this way: My trailer is built VERY stout, on solid 10" I beam frame rails, and I would not support it like Larry advocates.
Will
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willald
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03/01/10 07:17am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Travel Trailer Supports while at the campground
Well, you're off to a good start, and I always like DIY solutions, I've done many of those myself. However, as others have said, what you've created there, would be WAAAY too much of a pain to have to set up and take down every time.
Check out my thread HERE, where I outlined the stabilizers I built also, that takes care of side to side movement. Would be very easy to take same basic approach I did to install some stabilizers mounted longways as well, to take care of fore/aft movement like you are talking about.
I built my stabilizers for similar reasons you're referring to, although my main focus was on eliminating side to side movement, not fore/aft. And, eliminate movement, they certainly do. Been a great improvement. Like you, I didn't want to spend $250 for some of the products out there.
I determined early on that it needed to be something easy to deploy and take down, otherwise it wouldn't last long. That, and I wanted something that stayed in place, didnt have to be stored somewhere. With the stabilizer bars I built, its just a matter of tightening two wing nuts (finger tight) after deploying stabilizer jacks, and then loosening them before rolling jacks back up when breaking camp. Thats it. Nothing to take apart or have to store somewhere, it all stays in place. And, like yours, my stabilizer project was done with very little $$, basically two pieces of 3/4" electric conduit pipe, and various other small hardware bought at Lowe's.
Anyway, didnt intend to insult what you've done, just wanted to show you a way to take it one step further, and improve it some. Happy camping. :)
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willald
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03/01/10 07:08am |
Travel Trailers
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