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RE: Permanently wired shore power line?
Mine is permanently attached to a power cord retractor/deployer. It feed thru a 5" hole with cap in the compartment floor. Press the button for out, press it again to retract it. Makes hookups a pleasure......Dennis
interesting ALL the ones i have seen(plenty of them) you freewheel them out and then power them back in.never seen one power both ways
I'm starting to like this idea of a cord retractor/deployer. I think it'd allow for much better use of the storage space because the cord would be all wound up and neatly stowed, instead of laying out everywhere in the storage bin.
Do they make a manual one? I'd prefer that actually for the simplicity, if it was an option..
Once again, thanks to all for your responses on this, and keep them coming. I've definitely learned a thing or two, in how power cords on 50 amp powered coaches are done a bit different from what I'm used to with the TT and its 30 amp setup. :)
Will
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willald
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02/10/12 09:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ocean Lakes campsite question/request
Dang - That was no help! Guess they are trying to be safe than sorry!
Well, in their defense: Even though OL couldn't give me the information I had hoped for about the site, reality is that they still give you tons more information about their sites (length and width, notes about tree placement, etc), than ANY other campground in that area. I'd still chose OL over the others in Myrtle Beach.
Will
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willald
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02/09/12 02:10pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Permanently wired shore power line?
There's an access hole with a cover in our GT. It's about 8" diameter, though, so there's still plenty of space for critters to get in. I've made a plywood plug - actually two pieces of 1/4" plwood, each with a slot from the edge to the center that terminates in a hole that's a snug fit around the cable. The o'd of the plywood circle is a snug fit in the hole in the floor, but not too difficult to pull out again.
I drop the cord through the big hole and extend it out to the pedestal. Then, I put the two plywood piece onto the cord and turn them relative to each other so that slot is closed. Drop the plug into the hole and it's relatively critter proof. I did the same for the city water line that's in a different bay.
There are commercially available plastic disc plugs available with different size holes in. I think they're marketed under the name "Critterstoppers". Two circles of plywood were a lot cheaper!
OK, so it seems there must be an access hole at the bottom of the storage bin that I simply overlooked. If there is not, I'll get the RV dealer put one in.
Thanks for the idea about the plywood circles to stop critters, Frank! Thats my kind of solution, there, I like it. :)
Will
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willald
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02/09/12 10:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Permanently wired shore power line?
Any chance there is room for a power retractor???
Hmmm, there is tons of room in that storage bin, so yes, quite possibly enough room for a power retractor.
And, I kinda like that idea, now that you mention it. I may just have to look into that, as one of the first 'mods' we do to the MH. :)
Will
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willald
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02/09/12 08:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Permanently wired shore power line?
..Some advantages of this arrangement is that you only have to feed out as much cord as you need. The entire cord may not be needed, but will lay on the ground if attached outside.
A detachable cord can easily get stolen.
These 50amp cords are very heavy also. Why have a setup that requires the cord to be lifted out/in each time it's needed?
...All very good points I hadn't thought of, thank you. :)
Will
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willald
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02/09/12 08:39am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Permanently wired shore power line?
Wow, lots of replies, almost immediately. Thanks. :)
Very good point several made, about an access hole at the bottom of storage bin that power cord would go through. I honestly don't remember seeing one, but it is quite possible I overlooked it. I'll have to look a lot closer at the storage bin next time we're at the dealer.
..Anyone that owns a Georgetown model with the large, rear storage area, that might know for certain if there is an access hole or not?
If there is an access hole, that'd work, although I think I'd prefer the power inlet approach. Seems like for folks like us where unit would stay hooked up to shore power almost year round (we plan to keep it hooked up to shore power even when at home and its not in use), the access hole would be prone to leave too large a 'gap' around the cord, where creatures and other stuff could get into your storage.
Will
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willald
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02/09/12 08:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Permanently wired shore power line?
We're about to pull the trigger on a new Georgetown 351DS MH. The shore power cord on it is connected directly to the auto transfer box in the back, inside the rear storage.
There is no power inlet to attach the cord to on the outside, like I'm used to having on our present unit. You just have to run the cord out the storage bin door, and plug it up to shore power. I really, really do NOT like this, as it means you have to leave storage door open all the time when connected to shore power (which would be 90% of the time for us).
Is this common on Class A units? Seems like a really, really dumb way to do it, because I wouldn't think anybody would want to have to leave a storage bin door open and run a shore power line out through it. Seems thats just asking to let rain water as well as who knows what else into your storage bin.
I'm guessing the only good way to solve this is to install a (50 amp) power inlet, wire it to the transfer switch, then attach the appropriate connector onto the end of the shore power line? I'm thinking this is something I'm going to try and convince the RV dealer to do as part of the deal, as it seems it really should have been that way from the factory (right?)
I've seen a 50 amp power inlet that Marinco makes, but the ones I've seen are all white. That'd look awful tacky on a MH with full body paint, so I'm hoping a power inlet can be found thats black, or we can convince RV dealer to paint the outside of the inlet so it won't stick out so bad.
Has anyone solved this problem another way? Like maybe, punching a hole in bottom of storage bin, and drop the power line down through that when hooked up? You'd then have to have some way of closing up that hole, though, obviously, when on the road...
Anyway, any/all suggestions, experience, etc. on this subject would be welcome and appreciated. :)
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willald
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02/09/12 06:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Ocean Lakes campsite question/request
Does OL think you will have a problem? They can tell what sites have the issues by people comming back to the office going OOPS! I did that once near the pool and had to switch. Luckily it was not during the summer.
I tried asking them when making the reservation, all they could do was read back to me the notes on their web page about the site (which I already knew obviously). That was all the information they had. :R
..Hence the reason I posted the question here. :)
Will
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willald
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02/07/12 02:29pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Tow dolly choices - Acme EZE or Landgrebe TD 40 101?
Just on tire wear along, I would steer very far away from the Acme with its tiny 10" tires. Expecially considering your are towing a minivan!
Believe me, I've thought of that. Thats why I listed the tire as one of the 'cons' to the Acme dolly. I am not crazy about a 10" bias ply tire going 60-65mph with that much weight on it.
However, they rate the dolly to handle up to 5000 lbs of vehicle on it, and our van is well below that. Best I can tell it'd be within the load rating of the tiny 10" tires as well (even though they're only on 10" wheels, they still are 20.5" in diameter, have 90 psi in them, and are load range E 10 ply tires).
That kind of brings me to another point: The total diameter of the tires on the Acme is 20.5". Is there ANY LT tire made, that I could replace the tires/wheels with on the Acme, that would be 20.5" in diameter, and have a load rating of at least 1700 lbs or so? I realize I'd have to buy new wheels as well, and would be OK with that..
Will
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willald
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02/07/12 12:23pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Ocean Lakes campsite question/request
Thanks so much for the responses. And, thanks especially to davidm99, for driving by to look at the site. I was hoping to find someone that was there that could drive by and look at it. Campers are such great people! :)
As to the suggestions about a golf cart: A golf cart is part of the plan for this trip. The family is actually bringing their own golf cart they'll have at their rented site way over on other side of the park, and we are probably going to rent one of our own as well. My Mom is going also, she is the one staying over in L section, and is the reason why we wanted something close to L section. Thats why we had planned to get a golf cart regardless. If its just us, we usually don't rent one and just use our bicycles (which we are bringing as well), but that doesnt work too well with the rest of the family. :)
Our MH has a rear slideout that comes out about 16" on the curb side, and a deeper living room slideout in the center on the street side (its a Georgetown 351DS bunkhouse MH). From what you said about that site, Davidm99, I think I'll be OK in that site (right?). Only other choice available is much further away, in smaller sites down in 4000 section. I really would prefer to keep 3161, not only because of its closer location, but because I like all the trees on that site for the shade they provide. Other sites available now in 4000 section are much more open.
I know they have lots of sites that are paved now. However, I actually prefer an unpaved site, and intentionally avoid the paved ones. For us, parking on the dirt, sand is part of the experience we like about going to the beach. :)
Thanks again, everyone, for the helpful input on this. :)
Will
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willald
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02/07/12 12:00pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Tow dolly choices - Acme EZE or Landgrebe TD 40 101?
You not only have to consider the towing capacity of your mh, you also have to consider the GCVWR...meaning the total weight of both the mh and the toad. Of course to figure this you will need to weigh your motor home as it is loaded for traveling. Subtract that amount from your GCVWR and you'll have the amount you can tow providing it's not more than the tow rating you're currently considering.
Yep, already considered that, Ron. :)
MH's GVWR is 20,500, GCWR is 26000. Door jam label indicates MH weights 16,396 empty, and has around 4000 lbs payload capacity.
Sooo, unless we put more than 4,000 lbs in the MH (NOT gonna happen we are only 'long weekend' campers), we still have plenty of room to stay within GCWR, even with around 5,000 lbs hitched behind the MH.
Will
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willald
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02/06/12 10:34am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Tow dolly choices - Acme EZE or Landgrebe TD 40 101?
I have one and the only problems are
1--Make sure the tie down straps are clear of the front suspension so they don't chafe
2--Mine wears the inside edge of both tires and even reversing the tires on the rims will only get 4000 miles before needing new tires.
Other than this it tows great and the brakes work as advertised. I also belive the instructions tell you to leave the steering wheel unlocked when towing. I have the steel ramps and have a clearance problem with the front apron on the car (Toyota Solara convertible). Solved this by using 2X6 boards to extend ramp length. You may not find this a problem with the van.
Thanks, c_liner. Inside edge wearing? That sounds like maybe an alignment issue. The EZE has a 5 year warranty, if yours is still under that, maybe you might want to see if they would be willing to help fix that for you?
Even so, for us, after 4000 miles the tires would be 'aged' out anyway, and would be due to be replaced, regardless of tread.
I've read where some folks have had clearance issues with the ramps. Like you said, though, thats easy to solve with a pair of 2x6 boards.
Will
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willald
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02/06/12 10:28am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Tow dolly choices - Acme EZE or Landgrebe TD 40 101?
I don't believe you add the total weight of the van and the dolly to figure that weight limit on the tow receiver. After all, you aren't putting that kind of weight on the hitch....probably only a few hundred pounds at best.
That said, you do need to calculate the weight to your MH limits, but not the hitch weight....or so I understand it.
You will want something that has brakes.
Both your choices are good......but you may find others out there too......since the weight isn't the issue you thought.
PapPappy, I'm not talking about tongue weight/hitch weight resting on the receiver, I know I'm fine there regardless.
I was talking about total weight being towed. In that respect, you do have to take into account the weight of your towed vehicle plus the weight of a dolly for that. Hence the challenge I have with dolly towing a 4500 lb van behind a MH with a 5000 lb receiver limitation. :)
Now, one might could argue that using an 800 lb tow dolly with a 4500 lb vehicle and having a total of 5300 lbs back there will not be an issue, and 300 lbs over will not rip the receiver off or cause any problems. I'm sure many do that, but I personally could not. It would drive me nuts, and I'd always be paranoid something would break, haha. I need to stay as close to 5,000 lbs as possible, for my own sanity. :)
I agree 110%, about brakes. Thats actually one reason I'm leaning more toward the EZE tow unit. Really like the idea of disc brakes on the dolly, disc brakes work so much better, and are much easier to maintain.
Will
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willald
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02/06/12 09:51am |
Dinghy Towing
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Tow dolly choices - Acme EZE or Landgrebe TD 40 101?
..We're about to pull the trigger on a new MH (Georgetown 351DS), and have been debating how we will tow our '07 Kia Sedona minivan behind it. We've pretty well decided towing 4 down is just not practical for us - would cost somewhere north of $3000 to set up, and require adding things to the van I'd just prefer not to do to it (lube pump, etc).
Soooo, its a tow dolly for us. Given that the MH's receiver is limited to 5,000 lbs, and the van weighs around 4500 lbs (empty), that limits our dolly choices significantly. Most are either not stout enough to handle a 78" wide, 4500 lb minivan, or the dolly weighs so much it'd put us too far over that 5,000 lb limit of the MH receiver. Beacuse of that, and the fact I don't want to spend much more than $2k (might as well go 4 down if I spend that much!), we have ruled out Demco, Master Tow, Stehl, as well as several others.
The only 2 choices I'm left with are:
1. ACME EZE-Tow
- Pros: Very lightweight (450 lbs), considerably less expensive, better brakes (surge hydraulic disc brakes), can be picked up locally here in NC (no shipping, can see/test it in person before buying), looks like it'd be easier to stow at campgrounds (most of it would fit under MH due to the way its designed).
- Cons: Not as good tires (10" bias ply 205-65-10), non-steering axle, plastic, removeable ramps that will be a bit less convenient
2. Landgrebe TD 40 101
- Pros: Better tires (14" radials), steerable axle (wheels steer, but fenders don't move..very cool), ramps built into the unit, not removable plastic ones like ACME unit
- Cons: Considerably more expensive, will have to be shipped from Indiana and bought 'site-unseen', slightly heavier (555 lbs) and larger A frame will make it harder to stow and move around, not as good brakes (electric drum vs surge hydraulic disk)
..Thoughts? Anyone thats used either of these two dollies that might could provide their personal experience with such? Are there any other tow dollies that weigh around 500 lbs, that can handle a 4500 lb 78" wide minivan, that cost $2k or less that I overlooked?
As always, any and all thoughts, suggestions, etc. are welcome and appreciated. :)
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willald
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02/06/12 07:38am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: How many out there still use a car dolly for your toad?
..Don't own the MH yet, but will soon. And we ARE planning to use a dolly, and probably will for at least several years.
I've researched this very thoroughly. The vehicle we need to bring with us, a Kia Sedona minivan, would cost something north of $3000 to set up for 4 down towing. A nice (new) Dolly can be had for less than HALF that much. And, we'd get to spend some of that $3k all over again, every time we trade vehicles. No thanks.
Really like the idea of being able to tow almost ANY FWD vehicle made. Also like that I can do so without having to alter or do ANYTHING to the towed vehicle at all.
I've watched several videos, researched tons, etc. on the differences in hookup procedures for dolly vs 4 down towing. No doubt 4 down towing is easier, and would be the way to go if you were full time and on the road all the time, or had health issues and bending down a lot was an issue. Still, I'm just not seeing where hitching up with a dolly can possibly be as bad as some make it out to be. Looks pretty simple and easy to me, no worse than what I'm used to with our current setup. :)
For a working stiff like me in their 40s and still plenty healthy enough to work a dolly (AAMOF my fat a** could use the exercise!), and still feeding several mouths and don't have an extract $3k to throw at a 4 down setup (or another $1k to throw at it every time towed vehicle is traded)......The dolly just makes a LOT more sense.
Now, when the van wears out and we have to replace it, THEN I may replace it with a vehicle that can be towed 4 down wihout so much expense/modification, and we may go to 4 down towing then. Until then, though, it just is not worth the expense for us.
This is another of those choices like a zillion other RV related things (DP vs gasser, MH vs towable RV, etc) - There is no one size fits all, everyone's situation is different, and the right choice is the one that fits YOUR budget, needs, and wants. Thats 'bout all there is to it. :)
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willald
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02/06/12 06:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Myrtle Beach Campground
Little known fact about PL. You CAN pick your site. They have a unadvertised reservation policy. IF you pay in advance for 7 or more nights. You pick the site. My site for this Summer is 187, ocean front, and faceing the ocean. I too feel that is really important. why drive all that way and not face the ocean, plus the afternoon shade iot provides.
It's not an unadvertised reservation policy - it's right on their reservation page. We have site 111 for Easter.
4.We will guarantee one of two specific site numbers if:
A. The requested site is available and the reservation is 7 nights or more,
B. The reservation is paid in full at the time of booking, AND
C. You must specify when making the reservation that you would like to guarantee a site number. A reservation for 7 nights that has been paid does NOT automatically guarantee a site number; it must be mentioned during the initial reservation process.
Well, the way I read that policy, sounds like they do NOT guarantee one specific site, but only guarantee 1 of 2.
Perhaps they have an 'unadvertised' policy in addition to that, like Terry mentioned, where they do guarantee one specific site?
Either way, I think OL's policy/approach is much cleaner and simpler - chose the site you want, reserve it, and you get it, and you'll know exactly how much space you'll have (or not have) in that site. Period.
Will
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willald
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02/01/12 10:31am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Myrtle Beach Campground
Little known fact about PL. You CAN pick your site. They have a unadvertised reservation policy. IF you pay in advance for 7 or more nights. You pick the site. My site for this Summer is 187, ocean front, and faceing the ocean. I too feel that is really important. why drive all that way and not face the ocean, plus the afternoon shade iot provides.
Agreed, not being near the ocean (and facing it preferably) kinda defeats the purpose of going there. Thats why I have no use for CGs there that are not on the ocean.
Good to know about PL's unadvertised policy there. I like Ocean Lake's (fully advertised) policy better, though, that gives everyone a guaranteed site, basically, and doesn't require you to pay for 7 nights in advance to get it (only 50% of your reservation).
Plus last year at OL. We could not leave the TV hooked to the TT, as it would be out in the road. It is no problem to stay hooked up at PL. Plenty of room.
Well, OL tells you on their web page how big every site is, and reserves a specific site for you, so you will know exactly how much space you will or will not have before you make the reservation. If your site was too short for your liking, probably shoulda reserved something that was a bit longer.
For example: The campsite we have reserved for our trip to Ocean lakes this Spring, is 60' long by 45' wide. Plenty of room. :)
Good to know about the fee at LW.
..Well, I personally haven't been charged that fee. We haven't stayed at Lakewood in a long time. I'm only going off of what I've read on here recently from other folks having to pay it. For all I know, Lakewood may have stopped doing that.
Man, all this talk about Myrtle Beach camping....Is it spring yet? I'm ready to go. :B
Will
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willald
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02/01/12 09:51am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Used side view cameras, ARE they NUTS????
I have been posting on another thread about wanting to add side view cameras, it was some one else's thread. I decided to try and find some used ones instead of buying the parts and making my own.
So I contacted this company;
http://en.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/c/rvsalvagemotorhomes-partingout.pl?
Now they seem to have everything you would want used for your rig. I asked the guy to look into a pair of cameras off a 03 unit, to my surprise the gentleman tells me they want 250.00 EACH for these used cameras??? I am like are you serious?? What in the hayo are they made of GOLD??
Is the in line for a salvage yard? Needless to say I will be trying something on my own.
Yes, that was my thread you brought this up on before (still amazes me such a simple subject like that brought 7 pages of responses, haha!). I agree with you, its really ridiculous what they want for USED parts. I'd be looking around at various options to build my own setup, too. You may want to check with this guy, I've heard great things about him.
I'm still kind of 'on the fence' as to whether or not the side view cameras are a 'must have' or not. The Class A we've decided to purchase indeed comes with them. In test-driving one with and one wthout the side cameras, I didn't see a huge need for them there. The main reason I see them being useful is as a backup in case you ever damage or lose a mirror. That, or maybe as yet one more set of 'eyes' looking back when backing into a campsite.
Anyway, good luck, and let us know what you end up with. :)
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willald
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02/01/12 09:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Myrtle Beach Campground
My vote is for Ocean Lakes, Pirateland, or Lakewood. In that order.
I disagree with TerryAllan about 'tiny sites' at Ocean Lakes. It IS true that *some* of their sites are small, but they also have many that are huge, with plenty of room. And, Ocean Lakes shows you on their web page, exactly the size (Length and Width) of each site, where trees and other obstructions are on the sites, AND lets you reserve a specific site, exactly the one you want. Soooo, with Ocean Lakes, you know exactly what site you're getting, and how much room you'll have on it. You won't get that much info about your campsite ANYWHERE else in Myrtle Beach.
Golf carts? LOL, I know Terry has a very strong opinion on that matter, but reality is that golf carts are bad at all of the big CGs there on south side of Myrtle Beach (Pirateland, Lakewood, and Ocean Lakes). Ocean Lakes security does just as much as the others to keep them under control (I've personally witnessed them taking carts away from violators). A lot of it has to do with the time of year you go. In the summer, all those campgrounds are very busy, and the golf cart traffic is much worse. Go in Spring or Fall like we do, its nowhere near as bad. We go there to Ocean Lakes for a week in April every year to 'kick off' the camping season, and its always great down there. :)
Only thing Pirateland has over Ocean Lakes, is the lazy river, and the shelters they put at each site. The shelters definitely are nice. The bad thing about Pirateland, is that almost all their sites back up right up against another site, so the back end of your camper in some cases may be just a foot or two away from the back of someone else's. Not much privacy there. That, and you may or may not get a site where your awning faces toward the ocean. You ALWAYS get that with Ocean Lakes, as all sites there face the ocean.
Lakewood is nice, too, we've stayed there a few times. Only thing I don't like about them is the $25 fee (IIRC) they started charging everyone when making a reservation there. None of the others do that.
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willald
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02/01/12 07:08am |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: Has anyone used the Flush-King for dumping?
If it was me, I would take the trailer back to the dealer and have them install a proper black tank flush system. I've used the Flush King a couple of times, but in my opinion, it's a waste of water compared to the in-tank system. I purchased an after market in-tank flush kit at Camping World for less than 20 bucks some years ago and installed it myself. Worked very well. The Flush King has been sitting on the shelf in the utility room since.
X2.
Tank rinser/flush system is superior to a flush king in many ways. Uses less water, easier to use, and cleans tank better.
I'd see if you can get the dealer to install the flush system for you, even if you have to pay a few $$ for it. That, or do like Fiver Captain did, and buy an in-tank flush kit and install yourself. Thats what I did as well, and I won't have an RV now without one.
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willald
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01/31/12 12:02pm |
General RVing Issues
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