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RE: The economy must be improving
..Earlier this week, when I had the MH at a local dealer getting wiring done to tow our van 4 down with it, was talking to the service tech. about this. He said that this last weekend, Saturday alone they sold 8 units. Due to it being so busy this time of year, they decided to keep sales open on Sunday. And they sold 12 more on Sunday! I asked what types they had sold, and he said its mostly the high $$ motorized units that are flying off the lot.
Their service department is sooo backlogged from doing PDI for new units, along with all their other service work (like getting mine set up for 4 down towing), they've had to contract out a good bit of service work to independent RV service businesses around the area. I had to leave the MH with them all day in order for them to complete a 1 hour job (installing monitor panel and wiring for lube pump).
Yeah, I'd say around here in particular, it appears folks that have $$ are letting more of it fly. Haha, I'm doing my part, setting up our van for 4 down towing ain't cheap (lube pump, base plate, tow bar, wiring, braking system, etc). :)
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willald
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05/24/12 08:08am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Breakdown - how would you handle it
I didn't want to hijack MrWizard's thread ...
When you notice your engine overheating or falling oil pressure, what should one do to minimize the drive train damage?
Case 1: Turn the ignition off. I don't think you want to lose your steering or brakes. What would the transmission do with dead engine?
Case 2: Quickly shift down to lower gears. That would increase engine RPM and probably worsen the damage. Maybe the transmission would not even let you shift down quickly enough anyway.
Case 3: Brake hard and stop as quickly as possible. But you would need to consider the impact on other traffic as well as current road surface conditions, e.g. wet pavement.
Case 4: Maybe some combination of the above.
Case 5: As MrWizard did, for reasons of safety, try to get off the road as quickly as possible. We might have all done that in interest of safety.
I sure don't know, but I think it is a question worth pondering.
Kinda depends.
If its oil pressure, or engine has been overheating for a period of time and I hadnt noticed it (IOW, a situation where very bad engine damage is already being done every second), I think I'd take option #1 - turn the ignition off, 'man up', and wrestle the rig to the side of the road without the benefit of power brakes or power steering. I've done that before with a car, although not with an RV.
OTOH, if its a case where I've noticed the temp. gauge climbing and its just started to get to the point of overheating (IOW, total engine destruction is not necessarily imminent), then I'd just get off the gas and coast, and get off the road as quickly/safely as possible without shutting off the ignition until I bring it to a stop.
However, as MrWizard's and other instances show...What you THINK you would/should do and what you actually do when faced with a stressful situation like that, may be two different things. And, as in MrWizard's case, it may really not matter what you do.
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willald
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05/23/12 02:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: electric awning pitch adjustment - reaching the arm?
What make and model of electric awning do you have? On our Carefree Eclipse, you adjust it once for where you normally want it and leave it in that position. It will retract with that pitch set.
Don't recall make and model on ours, I'll check and see. However, we cannot retract ours when it is pitched down. I have to loosen the knob and let the awning 'spring' back to its normal pitch set (almost horizontal), before it can be retracted.
Will
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willald
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05/22/12 09:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: electric awning pitch adjustment - reaching the arm?
You don't need to pitch the awning for water to drain. Leave the knobs loose so the awning will self-drain to one end from the weight of the water, then go back into position. That's one of the best aspects of an automatic awning.
Right. However, what if I want to pitch the awning down some, not necessarily 'cause of water draining, but because I like having it pitched down more like we did with our manual awnings? In some cases, you can get more shade if you pitch it down some...
Will
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willald
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05/22/12 09:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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electric awning pitch adjustment - reaching the arm?
Our MH has an electric awning, as so many do now. This is our first unit with an electric awning, and the other day, I was out playing with it, trying to understand how to adjust the pitch of the awning. I'm used to being able to do with the manual awnings we've always had before.
Anyway, its done by loosening a knob, pulling down on the arm to desired pitch, then re-tightening the knob to hold it at that pitch. I can reach the knob to loosen and tighten it, no problem. However, the arm you have to pull down on? Hahaha, that thing is up soo high, not even on a step stool can I get to it!
..Short of carrying a portable ladder (something I refuse to do), how does everyone that owns similar electric awnings handle this problem? Has anyone built a hook on a long pole of some sort, to 'grab' that arm and pull down on it when adjusting the pitch? I think thats what I'm going to have to do, but was wondering if there is any products out there already for this purpose, or if anyone has already made one, and would like to share their solution? :)
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willald
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05/22/12 09:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Beware in keys
Haha, I too was wondering just how crazy the bidding would have got on 'Storage Wars' for something like this. I can hear Dave Hester saying 'Yuuuuuuuuuup' right now to a huge bid on this, hahahahaha! :)
..All joking aside, though, and in an effort to put the discussion back on topic and away from picking on the OP for not paying storage fees: I think the point he was trying to make is still very valid. Towing fees for class A MHs can be very, very steep, regardless of circumstances around why the rig is being towed. 'Tis the reason its a good idea to carry some kind of emergency roadside service (Good Sam, AAA, CoachNet, etc). I wouldnt leave home without it.
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willald
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05/21/12 11:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Experience with protective shields for towing behinf RV
Hmmmm...Do you think that a tow bar like the ReadyBrute, that is a little longer and makes the toad ride further back away from the MH (by about 12" I believe), would reduce the amount of road debris that might get 'thrown' at the toad?
What about rear overhang? You think a MH with more rear overhang, hence more distance between rear axle and front of toad, will be less prone to sling road debris at the toad?
..It seems that this is one of those issues that there is no 'one size fits all', and that the best choice really depends on a lot of factors like the two I mentioned above. Apparently in some cases, it appears that no protective shield at all is the best choice.
Me thinks, I'm going to wait and see for a while before I plunk down any $$ for a shield of any kind.
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willald
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05/17/12 08:21am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: recommendations for toad set-up?
Well, first off, I'll say excellent choice, on the ReadyBrute tow bar/braking system. Mine just came yesterday, it gets installed (at the RV dealer) next week. Base plates (blue ox) and lube pump went on earlier this week.
I know the area you're in well, used to live there. Only RV dealer I know of there is McGeorge's Rolling Hills. Don't know anything about them except that I've read several very negative reviews about them in the past. If thats the one you called that won't do the install, perhaps them not being willing to do the install was a blessing, haha. :)
Anyway, I'd just do some searching around, find a few RV dealers around, call and ask them about installing the ReadyBrake, base plates, etc. The ReadyBrake is a pretty simple, straightfoward install, any mechanic or RV shop should be able to handle it. Same with the base plates. I've never had an RV dealer refuse to install something they don't sell.
..If you're willing to travel a ways south, I can tell you about some RV dealers in NC that I know will do the install for you...
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willald
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05/16/12 03:22pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Experience with protective shields for towing behinf RV
My personal opinion...... It's just one more thing that I don't want to have to deal with! Been towing for years and have seen no damage caused by it, that's any worse than driving the car down the highway.
..This is what I struggle with on this matter as well.
We're setting up our vehicle to tow 4 down, and am debating whether or not to get any kind of shield for the towed vehicle. Trying to keep the hookup/unhook operation as simple and easy as possible, and a shield like this would not help with that.
I may get something like the Ultra Gard mud flap that permanently mounts on bottom of the MH. At least that wouldn't be one more thing to have to attach and take off.
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willald
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05/16/12 09:23am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Towing a 2010 Honda Civic Hybrid
..I was thinking you could tow it 4 down with a Remco Lube pump. Just checked Remco's application guide for your vehicle, they say:
Towable as is. No formal testing but Remco knows of no problems. Follow procedures found under emergency towing. Hybrids require a dolly.
Sooo, if yours is hybrid, then you'd need a dolly. Sounds like otherwise, you might be able to tow 4 down without any modifications. I'd check with Honda on that, though, instead of trusting Remco's word.
If you DO decide to use a dolly, please PM me, I know where one is available that is essentially brand new (only used once), that can be had for a good deal. ;)
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willald
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05/16/12 07:31am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: BLUE OX PATRIOT BRAKING SYSTEM
Thanks for all of the replies. I have looked at the Ready Brake, but no one in my area installs it.
..How many places have you checked with about installing it? Have they all just flat out said they refuse to install it?
Its a pretty straight-forward installation, any mechanic or RV shop should be able to install it for you, no problem. Several people on here did it themselves. Every RV dealer I've talked to about it (3 different ones) all said they'd be happy to install it for us.
I bet you can find a good mechanic or RV shop that will install it, if you wanted to.
I have to agree 100% with mowermech about the Readybrake. Love the fact that there is ZERO electronics to fail or go haywire on you, nothing to have to put in and out of the towed vehicle. Real simple design, it just simply works. And, it is considerably less expensive than all the others when you get the package that includes the tow bar and everything.
Ours (Readybrake and ReadyBrute tow bar) came yesterday, have an appointment with RV dealer to have it installed next week. Base plates and lube pump went on earlier this week, we're just about ready to go... :)
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willald
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05/16/12 07:17am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Tire Question
...As already said, you're on the cusp, and a good case could be made either way, to replace them or not. Its really your decision, I'll only offer one other comment/piece of advice, as food for thought:
When you ask for advice on whether or not its a good idea to pony up a bunch of $$ for something or not, keep in mind one thing: Its very, very easy for folks to recommend spending the $$ to do it, when that $$ is not coming out of their pocket. Its truly amazing how people's thoughts on things like this are very different, when the $$ is coming out of their pocket.
..Let the $$ for these things be coming from the one giving the 'do it' advice, and suddenly that advice can change drastically. :)
For example: A few years ago, when I was talking to a friend about replacing tires on my truck, and whether its worth spending $1000 for a real good set of Michelins or not. He basically said, 'oh, yeah, go for it, they're worth it, spend the extra cash and do it right!'. Then, a few months later, when that very same friend is facing tire replacement on their truck...Suddenly that same $1k for tires is HORRENDOUSLY expensive, not worth it, will break their bank account, etc. Now, amazingly, some less expensive tires are just as good as those Michelins! Amazing how that works, haha. :)
Anyway, good luck whatever you decide. :)
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willald
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05/15/12 11:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Car Seat Question
..As one that travels with two children in a MH, I can definitely relate to this topic.
This is actually one of the main reasons we stayed away from Motorhomes and stuck with our TT and tow vehicle (Ford Excursion) until our kids were old enough to be completely out of carseats.
Simply put, there really IS no good place to put a small child in a car seat in a MH. Front passenger seat is usually the only one that 'legally' qualifies, but what if you have more than one child?? And, the idea of putting a small child in that front passenger seat and making DW sit in back...Ummmm, not gonna happen. Like I said, that was why we stayed with a towable RV until our kids grew up enough that we were done with carseats.
We basically accepted when we bought a MH, that nobody but the driver and passenger would have a true, DOT approved seat for traveling. Its just one of the compromises you have to live with in return for the convenience of a MH.
..In order to 'mitigate' this risk some, I had the dealer put two additional clamps on the recliner behind the passenger seat, to secure it better to the floor. Then, I installed a seat belt in that recliner. My 7 YO daughter sits there, and LOVES it. Very comfortable for her. My 11 YO son sits on the sofa, which has seat belts. All are seatbelted when we are moving.
I'd obviously prefer to have everyone in the family sitting in forward facing DOT approved chairs/seat belt setups, but that is just not realistic for us.
Anyway, bottom line is that if you want the SAFEST place to put the child in a carseat, that indeed is the front passenger seat as already said. However, depending on your circumstances, it may not be the BEST choice, all things considered (would certainly NOT be for us). I would check the laws where you'll be traveling, see what specifically they require for a 4 month old child. For a 4 month old, they probably require the child to be rear-facing in a car seat, in which case I'd install appropriate belts, tether, etc. on rear-facing side of dinette, and put the carseat there. I know that seat is NOT DOT approved, blah blah blah. I'd still take this approach, given that it sounds like this is not something you plan to do regularly.
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willald
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05/14/12 10:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Converting to electric awning
My Carefree electric awning has no pitch adjustment........
If you buy an electric awning be sure to get one with pitch adjustment.
Yes, you definitely want adjustable pitch if you get an electric one. Without that it loses a lot of value.
If our electric awning didn't have pitch adjustment....Well, it probably would have been swapped out for a manual one very early on (and it may still, someday....)
Will
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willald
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05/14/12 08:59am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Converting to electric awning
..We've now had both - the TT(s) we owned all had manual awnings, the MH we have now has electric.
First off, we need to debunk this 'myth'/misinformation that keeps getting spread on this subject, suggesting that electric awnings cannot be pitched to allow rain to run off. This is simply NOT true. Every electric awning I've seen (including ours) DOES provide a way to adjust the pitch. Ours, we can adjust the pitch on either side, by simply loosening one clamp/knob, pulling the awning arm down to the pitch we want, then re-tighten that knob.
Now, with that said, it is indeed true, that you have much more 'freedom' with how far you can adjust the pitch on a manual awning. And, you do have more options in that you can take the arms off and put them on the ground, and anchor the awning down to the ground to make it more stable in wind.
I think its a question of, do you want an awning that can be secured better to withstand more wind and stay deployed more, or do you want an one that can be rolled up in 5 seconds by pushing a button to avoid any chance of wind/storm damage in the first place? A case can be made for either, although I'm more a fan of the RTAU (roll the awning up) approach when bad weather threatens. We were that way when we had manual awnings as well. No matter how you strap an awning down, a good strong wind will rip it.
Personally, having owned both and now having an electric one, I'm still 'on the fence' with this. The electric one is growing on me and I like the push button convenience. However, I must confess, I miss the manual awning we had, and how I could control the pitch more. It seemed we were able to get more shade with it. If tomorrow something demolished our electric awning....There's a better than average chance its replacement would be a manual one.
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willald
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05/14/12 07:44am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Towing Car on Trailer
Well, its slightly heavier than what you wanted, but what about a Carry-on car trailer like THIS one over at Golden Gait trailers in Charlotte, NC? Can handle over 5,000 lbs of car, and weighs only 1,350 lbs. Price is very reasonable, too. Could probably get into this trailer for less than what it'd cost to set up a vehicle for 4 down towing. I don't think you're going to find one any lighter, that could handle as much weight as you have in mind.
I've seriously considered going this route, that Carry-on trailer is very tempting. However, for us, having to deal with a 15' dual axle trailer like this at our campsite (thats way too big to maneuver by hand) is just more trouble than its worth. Would make setting up camp and breaking camp such a 'circus act', would not be worth it.
Saw the video posted previously for the Kendon folding trailer. LOVE the idea, have always thought a collapsible trailer like that would be the perfect solution. It'd solve the campsite storage issue completely! Problem is, it only works for very tiny, lightweight cars, 3000 lbs or less. That rules us out.
If Kendon ever makes a collapsible trailer like that which can handle a 4400 lb minivan, I'd be all over it! (Hint, hint...)
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willald
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05/13/12 09:33pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: BRAKE BUDDY
Yeah, toss that brake buddy in the garbage, and get you a simple braking system that does not involve any electronic boxes that will one day quit working on you like this. Order you a Ready Brake system and be done with it. :)
Sorry, I'm not much help, I know. Hopefully someone that knows a thing or two about Brakebuddy will post something a bit more helpful. I couldnt resist the ReadyBrake suggestion, though, 'cause failures like yours are precisely the reason I chose a simple cable-operated surge braking system for our towed vehicle.
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willald
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05/10/12 09:05am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Price to install Dingy lighting and baseplate
$650 doesn't sound too far off for baseplate and wiring installation on a toad. Especially for where you live, California!
I'm having this done also, having base plate, ReadyBrake, and Remco Lube pump installed next week at the RV dealer. Like you, I ordered the parts myself (saved over $400 going that way vs having RV dealer get the parts!). I have the Blue Ox base plate and lube pump ready to go, just waiting on the ReadyBrake to get here. Supposed to be here Friday.
RV dealer here estimated 3 hours labor to install baseplate (at $105 per hour labor), and a another hour for wiring. Sooo, 4 hours, for this dealer here would be $420. A little less than you were quoted, but here again, you live in a much more expensive area than I do, so I'm not sure $650 was that far off.
Hehe, count your blessings, though. Be glad you don't have to have a lube pump like I do! Dealer here estimated 6 more hours labor to install the lube pump I need, and another two hours on top of that to install the ReadyBrake. All told, labor to set our vehicle up for towing will be around $1300 (with ME buying the parts). You're getting off much easier than I am. :)
You know, its kinda ironic - 9 years ago, we found only way we were comfortable towing our 34' RV trailer, was to spend $3k on a high end hitch for it (Hensley Arrow). That worked great for many, many years for us. Now, 9 years later, the TT is gone, it 'upgraded' into a Motorhome, and guess what? Once AGAIN, I have to shell out about $3k to make towing comfortable/fun again.
Expensive way to travel/camp, this is... :)
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willald
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05/09/12 11:04am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Ready Brake is too Long
Check the instructions that came with the ReadyBrake. I recall reading in the instructions for the ReadyBrake (that they have posted online) where it specifically said it was OK to cut some of that length off if need be.
Probably a good idea to double check with NSA as well.
Good choice on the Readybrake. I have a ReadyBrake on order, supposed to get here Friday. Goes on the car next Monday if all goes as planned..
How did the rest of the installation go?
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willald
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05/08/12 01:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: tow dolly instructions
..What 1995brave said. :)
It depends on the dolly. If it is 'steerable' and has a pivot table, you lock the steering wheel and can take out the key. If its not steerable, has no pivot table, steering wheel must stay unlocked. Thats pretty much it.
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willald
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05/08/12 12:46pm |
Dinghy Towing
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