| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Heat Pump/AC electrical question
Are you certain it's a heat pump and not just an A/C with (more common) electrical resistance heating?
|
wwest
|
05/18/12 09:34am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Water Pump Recommendation
An accumulator tank can not be used with a variable speed pump, so I prefer not to use a variable speed pump. An accumulator tank not only allows a standard pump to run smoother, easier and last longer but it does something else very important. It allows some place for the water to expand to when you turn on the water-heater. Most RVs do not come with an accumulator tank (to save money). I have seen many RVs with pipes busting, water pumps leaking, and pop-off valves ripping due to this. Every RV should have an accumulator tank! I have seen too many variable speed pumps leaking due to this. So put some of the money you save on the simpler pump into an accumulator tank
Of course you can use a variable speed pump with an accummulator tank.
|
wwest
|
12/14/11 07:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Carrier Air V A/C and generator use
The simplest thing to do is to add a time delay relay and ~15 ohm high wattage load into the compressor start circuit. When the compressor would normally start the relay energizes and picks up the 15 ohm load instead. Within a 100 milliseconds or so the genset will have spooled up to the new load factor and now the time delay runs out and connects the compressor.
|
wwest
|
12/14/11 07:06pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Refrigerator power source when traveling
What power source do you use when traveling - LP or battery. I had used the battery but forgot when I got to the campsite to switch to LP and it drained my camper battery. And my truck battery which I'm in the process of adding a Blue Sea charging relay to prevent truck battery discharge. My trailer mfg said the truck alternator probably can't charge enough to maintain the batteries. I'm thinking that the refrigerator draws 15 - 20 amps when on and it wouldn't be on all the time. If I have the batteries fully charged before I leave, they should still be fully charged when I get there.
I could use LP but I'm concerned that when refueling, the refrigerator igniter could go o and if there are gas fumes, boom. Maybe I could add a switch to shut off the igniter from the outside when refueling. My luck that it would go boom when I'm standing right in front of it to turn off the igniter. Seems like if it was a problem there would be some gov't regulation to "protect" us. So maybe it's okay but why are most burned out campers in gas stations?
Comments?
I have a 400 watt inverter wired through a relay so it isn't "enabled" unless the RV engine is running. Did that instead of the Dometic recall of an LP fire hazard.
|
wwest
|
12/14/11 05:30pm |
Truck Campers
|
|
RE: Water Pump
Most pumps of the RV type have a difficult priming initailly once air gets into the line when the tank/system is drained. The real test is what is the pump volume, GPM, once primed and no-flow pressure.
|
wwest
|
12/14/11 05:04pm |
Truck Campers
|
