tiberius
Brooklyn.CT,USA
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Hi, I bought a one gallon expansion tank at Home Depot for my RV. The tank is for heating systems. It says on the box not for potable water use. Can I use it for my water system?
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patnchris
Gurnee, Il. USA
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Joined: 08/06/2002
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only if you don't intend to consume any of the water. This would include using it for cooking as well as drinking.....Pat
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Dudley and Maggie May, the cocker spaniels
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tiberius
Brooklyn.CT,USA
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Thanks Pat. I appreciate your quick response. I will probably just use bottled water. Thanks again, Ty
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Troubleshooter
Anchorage, AK
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Joined: 05/02/2002
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Take that expansion tank back and get one from the Water Well section, if they have one.
I bought one a few years ago from HD for a water well pump system, and it is rated for potable water.
Only One Old Fellows Opinion
Bill
2002 Discovery 3126E CAT
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tiberius
Brooklyn.CT,USA
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Thank you, I think I will return it. Ty
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Troubleshooter
Anchorage, AK
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Just a point in passing. The expansion tank I bought from HD was a bladder tank, and had the inlet mounted in a plate that had a series of bolts in it.
When you removed the bolts, you had access to the bladder, which could be replaced if needed.
The one on my hydronic heating system is sealed, and to the best of my knowledge does not have a bladder, only a steel tank to act as an air cushion to the heating system.
Only One Old Fellows Opinion
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wolfe10
Texas
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I believe you are discussing an ACCUMULATOR, rather than an expansion tank. You will definitely want one meant for potable water systems. It provides a storage area and an air cushion (either passive or on more expensive units with a bladder). We have one on our coach and have had them on all our boats with 12 VDC pressure water systems.
They should have their "air pressure" checked occasionally (most have regular tire-type valve) with the pressure water system off. Pressure should be about 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure of the pump. On many systems this means 23-25 PSI.
Brett Wolfe
1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
Cat 3116, Allison 3060
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lfeather
Titusville, FL
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I used the following intructions from another RV.net forum string. Got all the parts at Lowes. I cut and pasted, but pictures didn't come out.
Inexpensive Accumulator Tank for Your Rig
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It's 2 in the morning and you have to go to the bathroom. Nothing wrong with this, BUT... if you flush the toilet the pump will run and wake up your guests or worse, the kids! So what do you do? Lay in bed in misery or use the toilet and risk waking the kids?
After reading about using an expansion tank to fix this problem, and pricing the Shur-Flo tank in several RV sources, I found a less expensive answer.
Notes:
Drain all the water from your system before doing this. (Trust me on this!)
After I did this installation, I found a "better" way which uses a 3/4 inch Reinforced Washer Hose. You'll need different sizes for the Ball Valve and only 2 pipe nipples instead of 3, and the elbow will need to be a 3/4 inch elbow instead of a reducing elbow. You'll also probably need two pipe thread to hose thread adapters.
For this project you are going to need the following items:
2 gallon Expansion Tank manufactured by Water Ace, Model RPT2
3/4 x 1/2 inch Reducer Elbow
3/4 x 1/2 Reducer
1/2 inch pipe nipple, quantity - 3
(I used sprinkler riser pieces)
1/2 inch PVC Ball Cock Valve
1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 inch Polybutylene Compression Tee (p/n QBT333) manufactured by Qest
30 inch long 1/2 inch Reinforced Faucet Hose (longer or shorter depending on your particular installation)
Teflon Tape
Total cost for these items was less than $50 at my local Lowe's Home Improvement Warehouse.
The 2-gallon water expansion tank is made by Water Ace. It has a pipe fitting on one end and an air valve on the other. (Note: the fitting shown on the end of the tank does not come with the tank.)
The tank measures 12 9/16" long by 8 3/8" in diameter. I found room for it under the couch, near the water tank, and in front of the hot water heater. It sits on 2 wood saddle blocks made from 2x4s.
The output fitting on the tank is a 3/4 inch pipe thread fitting. I used a
3/4 to 1/2 inch reducer and connected a 30 inch flexible Reinforced Washer Hose to it using a 1/2 inch pipe nipple. Put Teflon tape on the threads for a good seal.
I cut the 1/2 inch water line and inserted the Tee. Follow the instructions on the package to ensure a good seal (note: do not use Teflon tape on these connections.) Next I screwed the elbow to the output side of the Tee, putting Teflon tape in the threads of the tee. Put Teflon tape on both ends of a pipe nipple, and screw the Ball Valve onto one end of it. Next, screw this assembly into the elbow.
The next thing to do is screw another nipple into the valve and then screw the hose onto the pipe nipple, again use Teflon tape on the threads. The Ball Valve allows you to shut off water flow to the tank when you winterize the water system.
This is what the final installation looks like.
The last thing left to do is set the air pressure in the tank. Per the instructions with the tank, the pressure in your tank wants to be 2 psi below the "Turn-on" pressure of the pump. To figure out how much air to add or take out of your tank follow these instructions:
The tank comes precharged with 20 psi.
Turn on your pump and let it run till it shuts off.
Measure the air pressure in the tank using a tire gauge.
This is your "turn off pressure". Record this number for future reference.
Turn on a faucet and slowly trickle water until your pump turns on.
Immediately shut off the pump switch and faucet.
Measure the pressure in the tank
This is your "turn-on pressure". Record this number for future reference.
Leave the pump turned off, open a faucet, and let the tank drain.
Subtract 2 from the "turn-on pressure" and using an air compressor or tire pump add air to the tank to equal this number. Record this number for future reference.
For example if you read a pressure of 30 psi. after step 3, then your "turn-off" pressure is 30 lbs.
If after step 5 you read 25 psi., your "turn-on" pressure is 25 lbs. Subtract 2 from 25, which will give you 23.
Add enough air to the tank to give a reading of 23 psi.
I made a saddle for the tank to sit in just so it wouldn't roll around. I used a bungee cord to hold the tank into the saddle, but you can also use "plumber's tape" (perforated strap) and do the same thing.
That's it. You are all set to use your pump and experience smoother, quieter water flow!
Now matter what time it is!
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Copyright © 2001 R&K Enterprises. All rights reserved.
Revised: April 22, 2002
Larry, Debbie, Tiki and Tomi
USAF Retired
2003 36' Country Coach Allure #30856
2008 Tacoma Towed
SMI Air Force One toad brake
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tiberius
Brooklyn.CT,USA
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Hi, The tank I bought is an expansion tank with a bladder pre-charged at 12PSI that can be changed if needed. I think it works like a accumulater tank but the box says not for potable water use. I'm not sure what the difference is in the construction of this tank versus one for potable use. That is why I raised the question. I appreciate all the replies I have received on the forum. This is my first day registered and found the replies helpful. Ty
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tiberius
Brooklyn.CT,USA
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I got your pictures and instructions on the web and found them very helpful. Thank You!! Ty
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