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Topic: KWIKEE STEP MOTOR REPLACEMENT SERIES 32-with photos

Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 09/15/07 08:12pm

I had problems with my Kwikee step Series 32. The steps on occasion would not retract. I had to tap the motor with a hammer while closing the door to get them to work even in doing this it was may or not work on the next try. I had lubricated the steps and linkage, and checked the door switch, controller, and battery voltage using the Technical tips on the Kwikee Step internet site. Also I took the motor off the gear box and checked for any worn, or broken parts in the gear box. All checked out fine. This left the step motor as being the part that needed replacement.

I had seen a post from member bsinmich in the forum and contacted him for more information. He said that he used a front door window lift motor that was suppose to fit a 1990 Lincoln.

I called a large RV parts dealer in Texas, and told him that I needed a motor for a 32 series Kwikee step. He said that I could not get just a motor that I would have to buy the complete kit that included the controller, gear box and motor as a matched kit. The cost was $209 for the kit. I told him that I had heard that the motor was a window lift motor. He said that he had not heard that and that he doubted that information.

I did research and found that by looking on the NAPA internet site they had photos of the lift motors. I found that a 1986-1995 Ford Taurus left front window lift motor matched my motor. NAPA part # BK655-1395 $63.99 I ordered my motor from Auto-Zone Manufactured by Dorman part# 742-206. This has a lifetime Warranty and was $49.99.

05-29-08
***NOTE: Gferris has brought to my attention that the photo of the new motor I have does not match the photo of the Dorman 742-206 on their site it matches the motor 742-205. Just wanted to tell you that.
With that said I ordered a drivers door window lift motor from Auto Zone for a 1986-1995 Taurus. I got the a box that was from Dorman part number 742-206 on the box. The motor that was in the box was the one I photographed and installed. If they have changed motor designs or if the wrong motor was in the box I got I have no further explanation. Just wanted to give you a heads up.******

Here are some of the photos from the motor replacement:

This is the comparison between the step motor and the new motor.


This shows the motor and linkage cover, the three bolts, that hold the motor and plate, the conversion gear, the conversion gear locator pin, and the linkage bushing.




This shows the gearbox with the linkage in place





The linkage pulled from the gear box.




This shows the gear inside the gear box.



With the parts cleaned, I put the conversion gear on the new motor, this is a very tight fit and is machined to fit with no play. Care is needed when it is tapped back on the new motor gear so you don’t misalign the pin and the gear.



Next place the motor locating pin in the top of the conversion gear. This pin goes into the hole on the top of the gear box.





With the step linkage taken out of the gear box, I marked one side of the square in the linkage hole in the center, cleaned out the old grease, checked for any damaged teeth and put new grease in the box next I re-indexed the main gear turning it 180 degrees using the marked square in the center of the gear as a guide.



Next I put the linkage back into place and put the linkage bushing back into the cover plate.









Reinstalling the motor using care that the gearing and the pin is in place and the motor gear housing is seated against the gear box. The plate goes on next and the three bolts. With the motor tightened down the next thing I did was to attach the red wire and the yellow wire to their respective colors placing heat shrink tubing on the wires and then soldering the ends together.








All in all, the task took 1 hour. Care should be taken when the linkage is pulled because the steps will be free to move. Also you should compare the your motor with photos on NAPA, incase Kwikee Step used different motor and gear combinations.

* This post was last edited 05/29/08 11:25am by Ozarkwoods *


Full timing since June 2013
Randy and Annie
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Posted By: 352 on 09/15/07 08:21pm

sorry randy no pics


1937(BAD BOY)pontiac,all steel,chevy 350,dyno=405hp,650 holley double pumper,ps,pb tilt wheel,heat & air,
700 r4 tranny,headers,3" exhaust with flowmasters
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Come visit with us and swim with the Manatees



Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 09/15/07 08:39pm

Got them on this time hope this helps.

* This post was edited 09/15/07 09:01pm by Ozarkwoods *


Posted By: Fulltimers on 09/15/07 09:47pm

Nice, Thanks


Fulltimers
Fulltimers Weblog
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Photos




Posted By: MrWizard on 09/15/07 11:01pm

good pics , great write up.

great job.. !!


Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother
....

Connected thru Verizon with HotSpot WiFi using a Samsung Galaxy Nexus



Posted By: othertonka on 09/15/07 11:59pm

Nice job and a good report. I read this sometime back on the forum and I think I cataloged it away, but I will also save this post also. Thanks again. It looks like the gear in your original motor took a dump, is that right? Or was it just a worn out motor? Thanks again for the post.


Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS 8.1 Workhorse chassis
2002 CRV Toad
U. S. Gear Unified brake system
Retired Fire Captain, SFD



Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 09/16/07 06:23am

I have not taken the old motor apart, so it is hard to say, but if I tapped the motor with a hammer as I closed the door it would work every time, but then it was hit or miss if it would work again without tapping it.


Posted By: longhauler on 09/16/07 06:35am

Most likely this is a common commutator style DC motor and the brushes are worn down quite a bit or there is a bad spot on the armature. When Randy taps the motor with a hammer, it is making the brushes in the motor shift and come into contact with the armature or it is causing the armature to shift slightly moving one or more of the brushes off the bad spot. In a lot of cases, motors like these are not setup to be repaired in the field since the cases are sealed o keep out the weather and one has to open them like a can to get to the internals. So a field overhaul is just not possible. One can only swap out the motor as a complete unit like Randy had to. Killer deal on finding the cross over part. I have had to do the same thing with my vette a couple times.

I am sure I will face this same project one day soon as well. I pick up my 95 Destiny M400SI next friday. Drop me a PM about the manual you have. I think I am going to definately need it. Nice write up on the repair, photos, and documentation Randy!


Paul & Julie
1995 Coachmen M400Si Destiny DP
300 Cummins CTA 8.3
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Posted By: Glenn Cooper on 09/16/07 08:01am

I am thinking the next time my neighbor goes to PICK and PAY or is
it pick and save. (auto RECYCLE parts)
I will pick up a spare window MOTOR regulator, CHEEP!!!Coop


Posted By: olygene on 09/16/07 10:34am

Thanks for a great post -- the pictures and procedures were awesome. My Kwikee step motor is giving me some trouble and I would like to replace it, but how did you find that a Taurus window motor was the right replacement? Do I have to remove the current motor and take it to Napa and just eyeball every window motor they have to see which comes closest? Is there a parts # on the Kwikee motor that provides a clue? Anyway, thanks for a very informative and helpful post.


Posted By: CROSSBOLT on 09/16/07 10:50am

Really GREAT post! You gonna write "How to " books? You'd be great at it!

Karl


Karl


Posted By: Chris Bryant on 09/16/07 11:40am

Outstanding job (and with part numbers, to boot). All of the Kwikee motors are physically the same (at least since the mid-latter 90's), though they do have 2 versions, a standard and a high torque (for some double and triple steps).
The replacement looks identical enough that it should work fine, but if the current draw is different enough from stock it could cause a controller problem.
Not likely, but possible.


-- Chris Bryant
My RV Service Blog
The RV.net Blog


Posted By: weescot on 09/16/07 01:18pm

I own a 1981 class "c" Holidayrambler " Monitor" motor home, built on a 1981 FORD E300 van chassis. I am in the process of restoring it and have a problem withthe Kwikee Lectro-matic Step Model No. 2350. The steps have ceased to operate and my mechanic told me that the motors for them were originally windshield wiper motors from Cadillac Motor Car co., and needed to be replaced. I cant find a phone number for Kiwkee Enterprises or locate their whereabouts. HELP!! R McKee


Posted By: wa8yxm on 09/16/07 01:30pm

I'm going to have to print this one to file. Good job, I have issues with the motor on my steps too.. So far my "Quick fix" seems to be working (I re-indexed a couple of gears) but .... Who knows

On edit, Mine are only about 2 years old and would stick in, Now Stuck out is fairly easy to deal with but stuck IN is a major pain.

I got the distinct feeling that it was hanging up on a gear that is perhaps a bit "Rough" took it apart, added grease and re-positioned the gear... Reassembled and since it's been working 100%.... But I'm keeping that hammer handy.

* This post was edited 09/16/07 06:20pm by wa8yxm *


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377



Posted By: Chris Bryant on 09/16/07 02:36pm

weescot wrote:

I own a 1981 class "c" Holidayrambler " Monitor" motor home, built on a 1981 FORD E300 van chassis. I am in the process of restoring it and have a problem withthe Kwikee Lectro-matic Step Model No. 2350. The steps have ceased to operate and my mechanic told me that the motors for them were originally windshield wiper motors from Cadillac Motor Car co., and needed to be replaced. I cant find a phone number for Kiwkee Enterprises or locate their whereabouts. HELP!! R McKee


I'm afraid you are out of luck on that one, other than installing a complete conversion kit.

Kwikee is at http://kwikee.com/


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 09/16/07 03:13pm

olygene wrote:

Thanks for a great post -- the pictures and procedures were awesome. My Kwikee step motor is giving me some trouble and I would like to replace it, but how did you find that a Taurus window motor was the right replacement? Do I have to remove the current motor and take it to Napa and just eyeball every window motor they have to see which comes closest? Is there a parts # on the Kwikee motor that provides a clue? Anyway, thanks for a very informative and helpful post.


I had seen a post on here from bsinmich he said that he replaced his with a lincoln window lift motor and gave me a part number. I decided to check the NAPA site, I had the motor out already and was able to look at photos on the NAPA internet site entering years, make and models I looked at the different photos, now it is important that you order the left front motor because the right lift motor the gear housing is oriented opposite from the left front lift. And the rear is different also. The Taurus being one of the high volume models Ford made makes it a great cross over part. If you think of it Kwikee is quite smart about it, the part being made for a very popular model car makes the part readily available for their used in the steps. Whenever, you have to have a part made specially for you the cost is quite high unless you do it in volume, if you use parts that are easily obtained because of it's other uses as the Taurus then you will have always have parts available instead of having to order them in mass quanities.

After finding that the motor looked the same, I orded it through Auto Zone, I asked them if I could return it if it was not the right one. They told me no problem. By ordering the Auto Zone they offered a lifetime warranty on the motor, and at a cheaper cost at 49.99. If the motor goes out again, I will have the warranty to back me up.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 09/16/07 03:23pm

weescot wrote:

I own a 1981 class "c" Holidayrambler " Monitor" motor home, built on a 1981 FORD E300 van chassis. I am in the process of restoring it and have a problem withthe Kwikee Lectro-matic Step Model No. 2350. The steps have ceased to operate and my mechanic told me that the motors for them were originally windshield wiper motors from Cadillac Motor Car co., and needed to be replaced. I cant find a phone number for Kiwkee Enterprises or locate their whereabouts. HELP!! R McKee


That could be difficult, I would try to rule out all of the other things first. It could be a switch, a controler, a gear box. If it looks like it is the motor, I would take the motor off and see if you can see if there are numbers on it. Next thing would be to try NAPA to see if they can find a match for you. If you have time check to see if NAPA on the internet has photos that match, I would begin with model years well before the steps were made. Checking different makes and models, Go with the most popular model for that make. Good Luck


Posted By: longhauler on 09/16/07 03:37pm

weescot wrote:

I cant find a phone number for Kiwkee Enterprises or locate their whereabouts. HELP!! R McKee


http://www.kwikee.com/
Kwikee Products
230 Davidson Avenue
Cottage Grove, OR 97424
1-800-736-9961
1-541-942-3888
Fax 1-541-942-5515


Posted By: Gary. on 09/17/07 04:00pm

Randy, Thanks for the excellent post. Now days I need pictures in order to do a job! Good discriptions to go along. With that complete post I think I could do it!


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 10/02/07 08:42pm

No Problem Gary, I know how much easier photos make it then just explaining. Hope this helps others.


Posted By: longhauler on 10/23/07 11:13pm

Ozarkwoods wrote:

I had problems with my Kwikee step Series 32. The steps on occasion would not retract. I had to tap the motor with a hammer while closing the door to get them to work even in doing this it was may or not work on the next try. I had lubricated the steps and linkage, and checked the door switch, controller, and battery voltage using the Technical tips on the Kwikee Step internet site. Also I took the motor off the gear box and checked for any worn, or broken parts in the gear box. All checked out fine. This left the step motor as being the part that needed replacement.


Well right on queue before leaving this coming weekend, the step on my coachmen started blowing fuses. Before this it kept starting to come down at different times and then ceased to work at all. I checked the 30amp fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew immediately. Something is definately shorted in the circuit. The steps of course are dead in the water which makes getting in and out of the coach pretty fun at this point. I went ahead and ordered a motor just in case from autozone, so it should be here tomorrow night. I will get the volt meter out and do some debugging I guess while I wait for the UPS guy to show up with parts. Nothing like owning a used coach right?


Posted By: becks1999 on 03/04/08 07:14am

I just finished the installation of a Ford Taurus power window motor ($49 from Advance Auto Parts w/lifetime warranty) on my MH steps. They are working flawlessly now. No more tapping the motor with a hammer to get them to retract. Thank you for the helpful information provided in this thread.






Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 03/04/08 03:22pm

Becks1999

Awesome I am glad that it work out for you, sure beats the price at Kwikee and they want to change out the brain, gear housing, and motor. Now you can save your receipt and get a free one if it happens again. Well that's if they allow us to cut the connectors. Even if you had to buy another one you could buy close to 5 and still be under the Kwikee step price.


Posted By: JoeH on 03/05/08 12:14pm

I just joined the "club" and picked one up yesterday at Autozone. Just need to put it in this weekend


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 03/05/08 09:29pm

JoeH wrote:

I just joined the "club" and picked one up yesterday at Autozone. Just need to put it in this weekend


Have to feel good about saving some bucks, and getting the job done to boot.


Posted By: r1chy on 04/16/08 08:00pm

Ozarkwoods - Great job documenting and I'm sure it will save many a handy person both $$$ and time. You are a gentleman and RV'er friend for taking the time to photo and post this info.

I've made a copy for my file, just in case. I will also be sure to pass it along, with all due credit, if I ever hear of anyone having this problem.

Thank you, R1chy


Fleetwood Revolution - 2002


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 04/16/08 08:10pm

r1chy,
Thanks, now also you might want to make sure this will work for your motor some with newer steps have said they have changed motors...now with that said it could just be another window motor from a different make and model. Or their own motor. I suspect it's a motor readily available. Just an FYI.


Posted By: fuzzbutt on 04/27/08 10:30am

I had problems with my steps not extending. I purchased the motor from the local Napa store. I got it for $67.00 and they delivered it to me. Of course, it's the Dorman motor in their box.

I followed all Randy's directions and wrapped up the project in about an hour. I got the old motor to work again by tapping it, but changed it anyway. It was 14 years old and ready to die.

Thanks to Randy's directions and photos it was an easy fix.


John, Sherry & Sabrina
+ Mowgli (Keeshond) Shane (Border Collie) Sunny (Sun Conure) & Lily (Cockatiel)
94 Winnebago Adventurer 34'
04 Nissan Murano
05 Acura TL
92 Honda Gold Wing
Now.....bring me that horizon.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 04/28/08 06:10pm

fuzzbutt wrote:

I had problems with my steps not extending. I purchased the motor from the local Napa store. I got it for $67.00 and they delivered it to me. Of course, it's the Dorman motor in their box.

I followed all Randy's directions and wrapped up the project in about an hour. I got the old motor to work again by tapping it, but changed it anyway. It was 14 years old and ready to die.

Thanks to Randy's directions and photos it was an easy fix.


Your very welcome, when ever we can find a cheaper alternative to the one the manufacturer offers then go for it.

I like the thought that all I have to do is show Autozone my receipt and the motor is covered if the problem should happen again.


Posted By: r1chy on 05/03/08 07:52am

Ozarkwoods wrote:

r1chy,
Thanks, now also you might want to make sure this will work for your motor some with newer steps have said they have changed motors...now with that said it could just be another window motor from a different make and model. Or their own motor. I suspect it's a motor readily available. Just an FYI.


Ozark - Point well taken and thanks once again for the photos, which should help determine if mine is the same.

Soooooo, what else have you done that is equally well documented?

R1chy


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/04/08 08:17am

The step motor was the first thing that I documented with photos, but I think I will start doing that for the future.

I will start to document what ever I do now and share it.

I know that this particular fix for the step motor will help many because it is a weak point in the step system, and the huge savings one can get by doing an hour of work.


Posted By: dwestbrook on 05/25/08 05:48am

Had some problem. The issue for me was the plastic gear that works with the worm drive was worn out. Plastic gears in theis situation are never going to last very long. If you could find a replacement gear this could be reapied cheaply but I had no luck find a replacment.

I found the following lift motors that will all work as replacments:

http://www.napaonline.com part # BK 6551518 cost as of today $92.49
http://www.autozone.com
Dorman part # 742-241 $83.99
Cardone part # 82-3003 or 42-3003 the 82 is new at $109.74. the 42 reman at $52.99 after you return the old motor
Parts Perfect # 73096 $81.99

If you google the above products you can find lots of info. about them.

My original motor was made by AM Equipment a 214 series see http://www.amequipment.com/06_window_lift_motors.html

I'm going to try the Cardone reman one since it claims to have an improve worm gear mechanism which is where my last one failed. That and it is the cheaper option.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/26/08 08:28am

dwestbrook,
You have not indicated what year your steps are. They have changed their design. And if you have found these motors to fit a newer design that is awesome. It's hard to believe that they would use a plastic part on something that takes pressure. Sure the step has no problems when it is moving but when it comes to the end of the out cycle and the in cycle there are forces that would put extra pressure on the worm gear. Then when people step on the step there is pressures also....The worm gear will be an issue and hard to find a replacement. I think Kwikee needs to rethink their design. Or offer a more durable worm gear set up.

Again if you can give us a year your steps were made or around the year it will help the others with newer steps.
Thanks for adding this information.


Posted By: rad valve on 05/26/08 03:02pm

Hard to belive plastic part. The motor used on the step is a power window motor it was only meant to roll up and down a window. It was never meant for a step. They use power window motors for lots of things besides rolling up windows. The plastic that gear is made of I don't ember the right name is's something like 66 it is a very strong plastic.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/26/08 06:44pm

LOL appearently not strong enough.


Posted By: dwestbrook on 05/26/08 08:36pm

Ok posting the pictures did not work out. I'll try figure that out and post them later.


David


Posted By: dwestbrook on 05/26/08 08:46pm

My steps were made in 2005 per the label on them. This made them less then 3 years old when we started having problems in the Fall of 07. At first it was just a little grinding sound but soon they would not retract fully without a little gentle helping push.

After getting the RV out of storage this year it was time to fix them.

I followed Randy's instructions which were very helpful. Thanks Randy.

After taking the steps apart and checked the 2 metal gears that you see Randy's picture 2 (small one) and 5 (large one) I determined they were fine with no wear. I then tested the motor and electricity wise it was fine and it run just fine with no load on it. I then put some load on the shaft you see in picture 1 that the small gear is mounted on. Motor turned just fine until just a little load was put on it and which point it began to grind and could no longer turn the shaft.

I therefore decided to take apart the motor housing while waiting for my replacement one to arrive to understanding what was going on. It is pretty easy to take apart, there are 2 philips screws that hold the cover on the gear housing. See pictures below if I did this right - first time I'm posting pictures.



Undo the 2 screws and carefully lift the cover off without bending it to see the plastic gear. A O ring that seals the join may make this difficult to do.



Remove the clips that hold the shaft in place and you can pry the gear assemble out. It will be better to first undo the 4 phillips screws holding the motor on and to remove it first.

Below is a picture of my plastic gear. Notice how worn it is on the right hand side compared to the left. In fact totally worn out on the right side. Is no way you are going to move steps with a gear in this shape.




Now if you could just find a replacement plastic gear and if you carefully took apart the motor pieces without damaging anything you could esily put it all back together with a new gear. That plastic gear I guess is a less than $10 part if you could find somewhere to buy it and is certainly the weak point in the system. Key is to carefully remove cover plate without bending it. When putting it all back together I would replace the O rings and clips becasue they are cheap parts and should always be replaced when re-assembling soemthing like this to ensure a good seal and tight fit.

The problem is finding where to get the replacement plastic gear or even better a metal one that is idential to it.


Posted By: rad valve on 05/26/08 10:30pm

Yes I know all about those plastic gear they could go to metal ones but it cost to much. Remember its a power window motor. It was made to roll up and down a window not move a step in and out and support 300 pounds.


Posted By: gferris on 05/27/08 02:41am

I dont quite understand the origional post. The pictures listed for the "New" matching motor do not jive with the part numbers listed. If you go on-line to Napa or Dorman the Ford Tarus parts for the model years you listed do not look like the new part you said you ordered. In fact if you order the Tarus part, the electronics have a vent hole that is not sealed (not good in water under the rig), and the body is fatter than the origional so your not gonna get a great fit. I also verified this by pulling three motors off Ford Taruses at pick and pull. They all match the Napa Pictures for Tarus parts you listed but do not match the "new" picture in your photos.

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(tiq22pavj3yf0j2blpb5fnv2))/Detail.aspx?A=BK_6551395_0158097603&An=599001+101995+50026+2026029

So what gives? What part did you really order? Post a link to auto parts store picture that looks anything like your photo.

The one that does appear to be the match in the 1992 Lincoln Contential right rear window lifter. But good luck trying to get that one out of the rear door at a pick-in-pull. I just dont understand why you think Tarus is a match......see link above.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/27/08 08:19am

gferris wrote:

I dont quite understand the origional post. The pictures listed for the "New" matching motor do not jive with the part numbers listed. If you go on-line to Napa or Dorman the Ford Tarus parts for the model years you listed do not look like the new part you said you ordered. In fact if you order the Tarus part, the electronics have a vent hole that is not sealed (not good in water under the rig), and the body is fatter than the origional so your not gonna get a great fit. I also verified this by pulling three motors off Ford Taruses at pick and pull. They all match the Napa Pictures for Tarus parts you listed but do not match the "new" picture in your photos.

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(tiq22pavj3yf0j2blpb5fnv2))/Detail.aspx?A=BK_6551395_0158097603&An=599001+101995+50026+2026029

So what gives? What part did you really order? Post a link to auto parts store picture that looks anything like your photo.

The one that does appear to be the match in the 1992 Lincoln Contential right rear window lifter. But good luck trying to get that one out of the rear door at a pick-in-pull. I just dont understand why you think Tarus is a match......see link above.


Gferris I can understand your confusion. Maybe dwestbrook will post the new photos and information in a separate thread with as title of Kwikee motor replacement for stairs built in 2005.

Kwikee changed their set up. My replacement parts were for the older steps manufactured around 1995. dwestbrook part numbers are for the newer steps. This helps the people with problems with the step motors that did not match my motors. Before the posting from dwestbrook they were having to purchase repair kits for the steps that had to be over $200. Thanks again dwestbrook for doing the research and finding the motors that work with the new step configuratons.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/27/08 09:41am

gferris I don't know where you are going wrong but I double checked the numbers with Nappa and Dorman and both numbers match. The Dorman motor is the one I ordered from Autozone. That is the one I took photos of. Make sure your taking the correct door motor out of the cars. There is a difference. And if you take a look at my link you will see that the Dorman number I gave also works on the Continental windows.

Dorman


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/27/08 10:30am

dwestbrook wrote:

My steps were made in 2005 per the label on them. This made them less then 3 years old when we started having problems in the Fall of 07.



Now if you could just find a replacement plastic gear and if you carefully took apart the motor pieces without damaging anything you could esily put it all back together with a new gear. That plastic gear I guess is a less than $10 part if you could find somewhere to buy it and is certainly the weak point in the system. Key is to carefully remove cover plate without bending it. When putting it all back together I would replace the O rings and clips becasue they are cheap parts and should always be replaced when re-assembling soemthing like this to ensure a good seal and tight fit.

The problem is finding where to get the replacement plastic gear or even better a metal one that is idential to it.


Ok I understand now that the plastic gear was in the motor housing and not within the Kwikee step housing. Thanks for the clarification. You might want to start a new thread and label it so it shows for the newer steps and motors. Thanks again for giving this information it sure helps others.


Posted By: dwestbrook on 05/27/08 08:01pm

Randy good idea I will start a new post with pictures for the newer steps. IMHO I don't think they improved much between your 1995 steps and 2005 ones. Everything looks the same as in your photo's. The only change appears to be a new electornic controller unit and then using a different motor. It appears they just changed to a new version of the lifter motor since it looks very similar to the one in your photos probably at the same time Ford change to a new version of the motor. I don't know if it is still the case but car manufacturers used to run on a 10 year life cycle so Ford would be changing this motor every 10 years or so.

Anyhow come this weekend I will document using the same format Randy did in the original post.


Posted By: rad valve on 05/27/08 09:54pm

It is not just the motor that changed the gear box allso changed it is made in china now.


Posted By: gferris on 05/28/08 06:45pm

Dorman pictures for dorman 742-206

Note the differences between the picture of this part and the picture you origionally posted. Black plastic case vs metal case, 2 motor attachement bolts on the outside vs. 4 corner bolts to attach moter houing, wires on the end vs. wires in the middle, vent hole on end vs. vent in middle (not shown), No copper colored gear cover with small set screw holding it on. And most important a thicker case. A picture of Dorman 742-206 is not what you posted as your mew motor. Dorman 742-205 yep, but not Dorman 742-206


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/29/08 11:03am

gferris wrote:

Dorman pictures for dorman 742-206

Note the differences between the picture of this part and the picture you originally posted. Black plastic case vs metal case, 2 motor attachment bolts on the outside vs. 4 corner bolts to attach motor houing, wires on the end vs. wires in the middle, vent hole on end vs. vent in middle (not shown), No copper colored gear cover with small set screw holding it on. And most important a thicker case. A picture of Dorman 742-206 is not what you posted as your mew motor. Dorman 742-205 yep, but not Dorman 742-206


gferris
I see your point as far as the photos go. But I am going off of what I ordered from Auto Zone I asked for a front drivers side window lift motor for a Taurus and I gave the years of 1986-1995. The part I got was a Dorman the part number was 742-206. The motor that I took pictures of was in that box with that number. Now how do we go from there? Have you ordered the motor? Have you compared the two? Maybe they went with a simpler design. Maybe they have depleted the stock for the original 206 motor and the 205 motor is what's left and they will fit both.....all I can tell you is that new motor in that photo came from a Dorman box with part number 742-206. Beyond that not much more I can say....Thanks for pointing that out I have put a note in the original post about the discrepancy in the numbers and motors. So anyone reading it can make a determination what works best for them. Thanks again

* This post was edited 05/29/08 11:34am by Ozarkwoods *


Posted By: Whitepony on 06/01/08 09:53pm

Am I glad I came across this forum. I'm having motor problems with my steps as well. So after reading this post I dug a little deeper and found a replacement motor for $8.91 on partstrain.com. It looks just like the motor on my steps and as soon as I get it I'll find out if it will work. I do love the Internet The part #F462948.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 06/02/08 04:30pm

I am glad this thread helped you, I say you saved over $200 by just replacing the motor with a lift motor. I know what you mean by this forum. It has helped me too, my wife keeps wondering why I am on this forum so much....so much information..so little time.


Posted By: sawman on 06/09/08 01:14pm

i have read all entries and learned a lot. do all these posts have to do with a series 32 step only? i have a series 28 step that works when it wants to, and usually not when i needit to. does any one have any input as to what aa replacement motor would be for the series 28 step. any and all commeents would be much appreciated. thanks, the sawman


Posted By: rad valve on 06/09/08 04:07pm

The step works the same only thing different is 28 series dose not have camstops. From 99 to 2008 they have used different motors and control units.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 06/09/08 05:22pm

sawman,
dwestbrook found a window motor that fits the newer design. Take a look above at his posts. My step is the style motor and control box that was made around 95. I am sure you will be able to find a window motor that fits yours. It's a whole lot cheaper then buying one from the company that they sell as a kit. Good luck.


Posted By: sawman on 06/10/08 07:55pm

FYI--my kwikee single step is a 28 series on a '97 dolphin mh. it worked seldom and the motor would get really hot. i looked at this forum and other forums to learn all i could. removed motor and gearbox from mh, took apart. the motor worked ok and the 3 plugs were 'egg shaped'. found that auto zone and kragens have ' window regulator gear plugs' (#74410 - $7.99). got a set and replaced worn plugs in my motor-gearbox. put everything back and steps work like new. just think, several rv parts places could have sold me a new motor-gearbox for $150.+ and i would be in the same place as now, only with less pocket change. i think some of these rv suppliers are out to 'wear our butts out' if a person doesn't do a little investigative work on their own. hope this helps someone else, as previous posts helped me. thanks to all inputs, sawman


Posted By: Jeepito on 06/23/08 10:00am

A replacement gear kit for this motor is available at Autozone. (Part No. 42-91) This will most likely have to be ordered. You can do that online or at the store.

See this link: http://www.autozone.com/R,APP855080/vehi........ype,00696/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Current Link For Gear As Of 03/12/09

The kit is $15.99 plus shipping to your door.

The replacement kit is for all Taurus and Lincoln window motors (same used on Kwikee).

If the motor works but the step is bumping or sticking against the stop, try this option first.

Just remove the motor gear cover lock pin (c shaped) and the gear case cover screw. Pull out the plastic gear set, replace with new and reassemble.

Edit to make link clickable. Mel

* This post was last edited 03/12/09 07:50pm by an administrator/moderator *


96 Monaco Dynasty DP
01 Jeep Grand Cherokee


Posted By: exportman on 08/18/08 10:05pm

Just had to update this post.
While RVing in Utah my electric step developed a problem. The bolts apparently loosened and some parts fell away and when I arrived at an RV Park I was doomed without a functioning Kwikee step.
Ozarkwoods' terrific contribution to this website allowed me to get the needed parts at Camping World and fix my unit up. It now works perfectly thanks to the great pictures provided by this member of the RV net Forum. $35 in parts and 1 hour of my labor and all is as good as new.
Make sure you get underneath and see that your nuts and bolts aren't loosening up. A wrench could save a lot of time.
Thanks again Ozarkwoods for your fine contribution.


Posted By: robatthelake on 08/19/08 12:43am

When My Kwikee Steps Motor stopped working, it was easier to pull the Motor and Gear Box as a single unit! Surprise the Thing said AC Delco on it! Now AC Delco Is or Was a General Motors Product. I'm was pretty sure that I Had seen one of these Motor/Gear Boxes before so I took a trip to a nearby Auto Wrecker. As soon as I set the thing on the counter the Manager said "That Looks like a Ford Window Lift! I Said it says AC Delco on it. He Looked and muttered "So It Does" Then we set off for the "Parts Bin" Sure enough All the Left Hand Ford and the Left Hand GM Window lift Motors were the Same! There were a few slight differences in the Gear Boxes but All could be Modified by grinding down a bit of metal!


So before narrowing what You have down to a Taurus and Buying "New" Check out the Local Auto Wrecker for Just about Any Window Lift Motor, Left Hand for sure , but Either should be workable if you switch the Power wires! Oh Yeah About $20 should do it!


Rob & Jean
98 Dutch Star Diesel Pusher ..07 Honda CRV AWD



Posted By: bill h on 08/19/08 09:38am

Ozarkwoods wrote:

I have not taken the old motor apart, so it is hard to say, but if I tapped the motor with a hammer as I closed the door it would work every time, but then it was hit or miss if it would work again without tapping it.


I had one like that. Finally took it apart and cleaned the commutator and brushes. Never acted up again. Same for a Carter electric fuel pump.


NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.

84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad


Posted By: harrylee on 09/30/08 04:22pm

Also had trouble with my Kwikee Steps. Took it apart and read all of the forums on this subject, and then went to the junk yard to see if I could get a replacement motor. Went to Autozone, couldn't find a motor as close to mine as I wanted. While searching for a replacement nylon gear for the motor assembly, I found the manufacture of the motor itself. Went to AM Equipment website, saw my motor and decided to call. I ordered exact replacement from Butch at AM for $38.00, including shipping. (What a headache looking for this motor all over, and finally finding it at origional manufacturers). I talked to Butch at 541 327-1546 Website is amequipment.com


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 09/30/08 06:24pm

That is great that you were able to find the motor you needed harrylee. My motor did not have a nylon gear it has a metal one. I know they changed the systems throughout the years. Thanks for adding this information for the thread.


Posted By: chuckmsp on 11/12/08 08:18am

Just ordered the motor from Auto Zone, I will report back how it goes.
Thanks for the great instructions and alternative to the conversion kit!


Posted By: DaveG39 on 11/12/08 09:36am

I just replaced the linkage because the swivel ball wore out and the two parts kept coming apart. Would have been nice to have two extra hands and extra knees to hold the parts during reassembly. No room under there for someone else to assist. Straight forward process though. Your pics make it easy for someone to do the replacement.


2007 TropiCal LX towing 2012 Honda
CRV, Goleta, CA



Posted By: BobRay on 03/12/09 01:30pm

There's a nice collection of photos of the Dorman motors here:

Dorman lift motor photos

Sadly, none of them look anything like the motor in my 2006 Bounder Kwikee 32 steps which has three bolts rather than four.

My steps make a grinding noise and don't fully retract or extend. I imagine that the plastic gears are stripped.

Here's a tip for others: Never step on your steps until they are fully extended, even if you're in a hurry, and make sure the stops aren't set too tight.


Posted By: angel3 on 03/12/09 02:10pm

I had the problem with the motor a few years ago. I took the motor apart and found the armature shaft frose to the rear bearing. I cleaned the shaft and lubed it with greese and never had a problem since.


Posted By: rad valve on 03/12/09 02:17pm

BobRay wrote:

There's a nice collection of photos of the Dorman motors here:

Dorman lift motor photos

Sadly, none of them look anything like the motor in my 2006 Bounder Kwikee 32 steps which has three bolts rather than four.

My steps make a grinding noise and don't fully retract or extend. I imagine that the plastic gears are stripped.

Here's a tip for others: Never step on your steps until they are fully extended, even if you're in a hurry, and make sure the stops aren't set too tight.

You have the newer Chinese made unit.

* This post was edited 03/12/09 07:55pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: chuckmsp on 03/12/09 05:35pm

Got the motor and installed it. Took about an hour all together.
Thanks for the tips here, saved me a couple $100


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 03/12/09 07:06pm

chuckmsp I am glad that this thread has helped you. I see above that some were not as fortunate.


Posted By: BobRay on 03/16/09 09:48am

Update: After re-reading the thread, I found a post about AM Equipment motors. My motor was made by AM Equipment (model 214-1001) and I was able to order one from them for less than $30 plus shipping. Camping World wanted $179 for just the motor (I couldn't believe it either, I had the guy double check). I'm still waiting for it to arrive, but the photo at the AM Equipment site is identical to my motor.

http://www.amequipment.com/_ASSETS/_Product_Images/Motor_FHP_214.jpg


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 03/16/09 04:33pm

BobRay isn't it fun saving $149. You should see what the cost is when they want to sell you the whole kit for over $250. Well I have an 1996 Coachmen with a Dometic refer. My sister-in-law broke the plastic handle for it... $70. It's crazy


Posted By: Oregon Chief on 04/03/09 12:05pm

Bob,

Great work on the Kwikee step posts. One question, the answer to which I may have overlooked. When removing the motor, should the steps be retracted or extended? Makes sense that they should be retracted but I want to make ceretain. Thanks for your asssistance.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 04/06/09 04:23pm

Oregon Chief wrote:

Bob,

Great work on the Kwikee step posts. One question, the answer to which I may have overlooked. When removing the motor, should the steps be retracted or extended? Makes sense that they should be retracted but I want to make ceretain. Thanks for your asssistance.


Oregon Chief,

what I did was disconnect the linkage pin and extended the steps out of the way I had a block of wood hold them out and away then replaced the link pin after I was done. Main thing is make sure you disconnect the step wires from the coach wires there is a connector about two feet or so from the steps. You dont want to be under there with power to the motor, just incase it decides to work or at least be very cautious with your hands and fingers. I like disconnectiong the linkage pin and propping the step out and up.


Posted By: waldreps on 04/15/09 11:41am

I have a 1990 Itasca Sunflyer 31' with the 32 series Kwikee steps with a dead motor but my motor and gearbox stuff looks different than the photos here. I've included some pics. Can anybody tell me what motor I might need or will I need some conversion kit or something?

http://slwaldrep.shutterfly.com/50#50

http://slwaldrep.shutterfly.com/50#52

http://slwaldrep.shutterfly.com/50#54


1990 Itasca Sunflyer 31' Ford 460



Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 04/16/09 05:52am

Waldreps,

That is a different looking motor. I would take it off of the gear housing, and bring it in to compare to the photos on the sites above. The dorman site and the Napa site. If those are the original steps start your search on a popular car model and style 4-8 years before 1990. Here is my thought process on that if I was building a device around a certain motor I would pick a motor that is no longer part of the production process and one that would be readily available in years to come because of the number of cars built.

On my steps I had a tag that told me when it was built. So that gives you a starting point. Hope this helps.


Posted By: rad valve on 04/16/09 02:34pm

waldreps wrote:

I have a 1990 Itasca Sunflyer 31' with the 32 series Kwikee steps with a dead motor but my motor and gearbox stuff looks different than the photos here. I've included some pics. Can anybody tell me what motor I might need or will I need some conversion kit or something?

http://slwaldrep.shutterfly.com/50#50

http://slwaldrep.shutterfly.com/50#52

http://slwaldrep.shutterfly.com/50#54





Yours is the delco motor unless you can find one you will
have to update to the new motor and gear box.
Kwikee stoped useing that set up a long time ago.

* This post was edited 04/16/09 02:47pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: Chris Bryant on 04/16/09 02:51pm

What rad valve said- that's an old Delco motor, which is series wound, meaning it is grounded through the frame, and power is applied to one lead to extend, the other to retract. The new permanent magnet motors simply reverse the polartiy on the two leads.
Those *might* be available- I cannot imagine not being able to get a 30 year old power window motor for a GM product- but I don't know a part number.


Posted By: 965Racer on 04/30/09 08:06pm

My Kwikee motor smoked today as well. Power is going to the connector attached to the motor, but nothing moves. It's a 40 series, so it's high torque. There's a sticker on the motor that says HIGH TORQUE MOTOR 9551. Rig is a 2003 Jayco. All of the above posts seem to refer to much older or much newer units. Anyone had any experience replacing one of these motors? Any idea what year, make and model car window lift motor will be the proper replacement?


Robert
2003 Jayco 26SS, IPD sway bars, HD Bilstein shocks, extra trannie cooler, Prodigy brake controller, Equal-i-zer, towing an ATC open car hauler


Posted By: stevesandidge on 04/30/09 08:19pm

ppl motorhome parts will have thepart, call kwikee, they will have the part number for you.
steve


steve sandidge
RVIA certified rv tech
camping world rv university
class 54
fix-it rv service
USMC 1982-1994
91 holiday rambler imperial 37'


Posted By: rad valve on 04/30/09 09:10pm

965Racer wrote:

My Kwikee motor smoked today as well. Power is going to the connector attached to the motor, but nothing moves. It's a 40 series, so it's high torque. There's a sticker on the motor that says HIGH TORQUE MOTOR 9551. Rig is a 2003 Jayco. All of the above posts seem to refer to much older or much newer units. Anyone had any experience replacing one of these motors? Any idea what year, make and model car window lift motor will be the proper replacement?


Kwikee will not have that high torque motor they have not used that motor for a couple years. The AM equiment motor took it's place.


Posted By: 965Racer on 05/04/09 05:40pm

rad valve wrote:

Kwikee will not have that high torque motor they have not used that motor for a couple years. The AM equiment motor took it's place.


I pulled the motor today. The AM motor would be great, but there's a problem. The AM 214 is definitely the right size, thickness, etc., but the hole pattern for mounting is the 11 degree type that the smaller AM 210 motor uses, not the higher degree version that the AM 214 uses. So I need the hole pattern of the 210, but the torque of the 214. Weird.

Any further suggestions?


Posted By: rad valve on 05/04/09 07:25pm

965Racer wrote:

rad valve wrote:

Kwikee will not have that high torque motor they have not used that motor for a couple years. The AM equiment motor took it's place.


I pulled the motor today. The AM motor would be great, but there's a problem. The AM 214 is definitely the right size, thickness, etc., but the hole pattern for mounting is the 11 degree type that the smaller AM 210 motor uses, not the higher degree version that the AM 214 uses. So I need the hole pattern of the 210, but the torque of the 214. Weird.

Any further suggestions?


You mite neet to get the newer chinese gearbox to go with that motor
the new Am motor 214 don't fit the old gearbox. You could check
napa or some other auto parts stores to see if they mite have
the high torque motor the hight torque sticker on the motor was a kwikee sticker not from the maker of the motor.
That power window motor is a siemens.
Numbers on the motor 091604 12v 4a 127169 Hope this helps.

* This post was last edited 05/05/09 02:38pm by rad valve *


Posted By: halmcclamma on 05/06/09 06:51am

I followed this well written, well documented disertation and installed the Dorman Part # 742-206 electric motor. It fit perfectly and, I beleiev is the Ford taurus window motor. Provides a feeling of self satisfaction and leaves a little change in the pocket.


Posted By: rad valve on 05/06/09 03:43pm

halmcclamma wrote:

I followed this well written, well documented disertation and installed the Dorman Part # 742-206 electric motor. It fit perfectly and, I beleiev is the Ford taurus window motor. Provides a feeling of self satisfaction and leaves a little change in the pocket.


That is another thing he could use the older motor like the one
you did it is just no as strong as the one that has the high torque
sticker on it.
Here are the numbers of the older hight torque motor they use to call this motor
UT don't know what that stands for. 082401 12v 10328220 M015WM 205-1009 don't know if this helps any one but I tried.

* This post was edited 05/06/09 03:52pm by rad valve *


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/06/09 04:03pm

halmcclamma wrote:

I followed this well written, well documented disertation and installed the Dorman Part # 742-206 electric motor. It fit perfectly and, I beleiev is the Ford taurus window motor. Provides a feeling of self satisfaction and leaves a little change in the pocket.


Thanks I felt the same way when I saved by finding the replacement motor. And I think over $200 savings in a bit more than a little change. Glad you could make the change out. Better than that with almost 8,400 views there are a lot of people getting the information.


Posted By: 965Racer on 05/07/09 12:08pm

OK, Series 40 high torque motor replacement in and working. Used a Dorman 742-277 purchased at Autozone for $52.99. Amazon has them for $45.04 and includes free shipping. But since I was in uncharted territory I wanted to check fit myself and that was easier in person. Plus, since the Dorman’s have a limited lifetime warranty, it’s easier to handle over the counter when it fries.

The Dorman was the same size, same screw hole positions and rotation, same size 9-tooth gear. The electrical connector was on the opposite side of the OE motor, but this makes absolutely no difference. The connector itself is a different shape as well, though the Dorman’s come with multiple pigtails to convert. However, the supplied pigtails still didn’t convert to the OE connector so I simply took one of the supplied pigtails, lopped off the end that didn’t plug into the motor, lopped off the OE connector and, using butt connectors, crimped the wires together. Wrapped tape around them (will use heat shrink next time I’m down there) to be safe. Fired it up and it worked perfectly the first time. Problem solved, savings of at least $175 versus what Kwikee told me which was that I needed the full IMGL replacement kit. Plus, much faster to just replace the motor as opposed to everything.

Note that when removing the OE motor, do so gently as there is a plastic motor gear case adapter (basically a large plastic washer) between the motor and the gear case. After it being down there under pressure for over 8 years I cracked it slightly when removing it. Some liquid plastic welding cement (comes in a two-tube syringe like epoxy) solved that problem though.

Also note that there are at least three other Dorman motors that look the same, at least in pictures from their catalog (742-251, 742-256, and 742-412). These may work as well or even better; you want as much torque as possible for these high torque units. Since Autozone doesn’t normally stock any of these though I couldn’t look at all of them and Dorman doesn’t post tech specs anywhere I could find. The one I used, 742-277, has a sticker that says 13 Nm of torque. And it works. But it’s possible that the others have even more torque and would be a better long term fit.


Posted By: reese0steve on 06/19/09 10:57am

I just finished replacing the motor on my Kwikee 32 steps. Your post saved me $65.00. THANKS! By the way the Dorman # is 742206, the pictures are reversed on the Dorman website.
Steve


Posted By: CyberVet65 on 09/26/09 08:26pm

I found it is a 15 minute job. Just make sure to attach the linkage to the steps prior to assembling the motor and plate. The tolerances are so tight that you will never get that pin in and through the steps. (don't ask)
chet


Posted By: MopaRV on 11/16/09 12:54pm

With this great info from Randy and others,( thank you ), I got excited because I also needed a new motor. Went to the pick-a-part and bought window motor off a '95 Lincoln. Got home and OOPS, motor doesn't match. My mistake. Oh well. (Learned later the motor needs to be off 88-93 Lincolns)

Went back to pick-a-part and bought the motor off of a '93 Taurus. Brought it home to find out this one won't work either. The linkage cover doesn't fit properly over the backside of the motor gearbox. Different design. The motor, I noticed later, is a Denso Japan. The design looks like the remanufactured motors I looked at today at CSK auto. My luck.

So I decided to go to Autozone to maybe just buy a new one. They pulled it out of the box. ITS PLASTIC. Made in Korea. YIKES! No thanks.

Couldn't get the images to work...
I learned a lot, but I'm back where I started. LOL


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 11/16/09 08:14pm

MopaRV wrote:

With this great info from Randy and others,( thank you ), I got excited because I also needed a new motor. Went to the pick-a-part and bought window motor off a '95 Lincoln. Got home and OOPS, motor doesn't match. My mistake. Oh well. (Learned later the motor needs to be off 88-93 Lincolns)

Went back to pick-a-part and bought the motor off of a '93 Taurus. Brought it home to find out this one won't work either. The linkage cover doesn't fit properly over the backside of the motor gearbox. Different design. The motor, I noticed later, is a Denso Japan. The design looks like the remanufactured motors I looked at today at CSK auto. My luck.

So I decided to go to Autozone to maybe just buy a new one. They pulled it out of the box. ITS PLASTIC. Made in Korea. YIKES! No thanks.

Couldn't get the images to work...
I learned a lot, but I'm back where I started. LOL


Kwikee used several different designs. My steps were on a 96 Coachmen. Depending when yours were made. Bring your old motor in and compare it. The front drivers door window motor on a taurus worked for me. Too bad the photos are not working for you. you will see just how close I matched the motor. Now try Napa, and other parts stores or go to the Dorman company site they all deal with different suppliers. Matching in person works better than anything. Hope this works for you . Wow over 11,000 views I wonder what the record is?

* This post was edited 11/16/09 08:22pm by Ozarkwoods *


Posted By: MopaRV on 11/20/09 11:59am

Hi Randy. What I meant was...YOUR images work, I wasn't able to post my images.
I have a 97 Coachmen and the motor is exactly like yours.

Its looking more and more like Dorman did change their design.
--Motor is mounted with 2 long screws, instead of 4 little ones.
--Back of motor gearbox is different, so the step plate won't mount properly.
--motor shaft housing sticks out farther, interfering with step gearbox.
(Sure wish I could post a pic)

This new design is found at CSK/O'Reillys, Autozone, Napa and another local auto store. Haven't tried CarQuest yet. They're next and last LOL.

So it seems that Cardone (new, not remanufactured) has the only true match, and CSK said they could order it, which will be my likely solution.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 11/20/09 06:32pm

MoparRV,
I will send you a link to the dorman page for the part I got.


Posted By: MopaRV on 11/21/09 05:14pm

Well, I went to CarQuest and they said they could order the correct motor. A remanufactured one for $60 + core!! (I hate CarQuest) Of course I said no and I ordered a new one at CSK. They matched my Internet price I found for $53. I should get it in a few days.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

(Thanks Randy for the PM..I emailed you back)


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 11/21/09 05:26pm

I got your email, your welcome, it looks like the supplies have changed, hope it works for you if this works post the information with part numbers, I see what you meant as far as the housing changes go. I was going to suggest tying to get just a motor to attach to the old gear housing from Dorman. Let us know. Hard to believe this post is 2 years old already.


Posted By: MopaRV on 11/25/09 10:53am

Just testing to see if I can post a pic

By rummyron at 2009-11-25


Posted By: MopaRV on 11/27/09 03:38pm

Well FINALLY!!! The motor is installed and working, but not without obstacles.

The motor I ordered from Checker Auto was Cardone #82-306. The motor is a match (except, made in China, like anything else), and there were some problems:

1) The gear was oversized, so the conversion gear would not fit. I had to file the teeth down until it fit.
2) The three mounting holes are oversized. I bought some spacers, 5/16 o.d. X 3/16 i.d.
3) the gear shaft was longer, so I had to hacksaw about 1/8" off the pin.
4) For some reason, the wiring was reversed. I had to wire red to yellow, and yellow to red for it to open/close properly. LOL


By rummyron at 2009-11-25


By rummyron at 2009-11-27


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 11/27/09 04:14pm

Wow MopaRV, finally and do you feel any better that the thing is done? LOL Now your ready to use the steps again. Wooooohooooo!


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/23/10 10:26pm

I know this has been awhile saw that some needed help on steps thought that for some new forum members might want to read there has been a lot of new information added by other members with other motor configurations. In reading this thread you have to realize that we are dealing with quite an array of RV vintages. So there were changes through out the years with Kwikee using different motors and gear housing. But with my original post it makes sense as a manufacturer to use parts that have different uses and something that will ensure a supply being made. Thus the power window motor. Is it a hassle to having to research yep, depends weather or not you want to save close to $200. In seeing the number of views of this thread I think the contributing members have done well in informing the rest of the members here.


Posted By: mtnman1989 on 05/24/10 07:45am

Ozarkwoods,
You brought this up to date just in time!
I already had my series 32 step motor off once last week and got it working.
It is not working again so I did a search just now and found your post.
I have not read it all yet.
My steps are on a 1994 Fleetwood, any suggestions before I start?
Thanks!
mtnman


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 05/24/10 08:07am

mtnman1989 wrote:

Ozarkwoods,
You brought this up to date just in time!
I already had my series 32 step motor off once last week and got it working.
It is not working again so I did a search just now and found your post.
I have not read it all yet.
My steps are on a 1994 Fleetwood, any suggestions before I start?
Thanks!
mtnman


Since your steps are close to the same vintage as mine I would start with looking at my part numbers. Bring your motor into your local parts store and see if you can not match it. Read the thread and you will find that others did not have the same motor they gave their part numbers also. Let me know how it works out.


Posted By: mtnman1989 on 06/01/10 09:57am

OK, here is an update!

I pull the motor back off the steps,(easier the second time).
My motor has 4 screws holding it all together.
I took the motor apart, the brushes look good but discolored.
I cleaned the brushes & the armature using light sandpaper.
I also sprayed it with electrical parts cleaner.
I re-installed all the parts and put the motor back on the steps.
It all works great at this time, I am happy!

I did call the parts houses to see if I can get a new motor.
They do not stock them but they can be ordered and cost is around $50.
mtnman


Posted By: Illusion on 06/16/10 10:18am

Hello
I found out my motor is different(coach motor). Have all most square shaft with gear exstended on it. No conversion gear to use. I think it can work if I can find one (conversion gear) Any body have one laying around ?

Thanks Dane


Posted By: alpineman on 07/12/10 04:55pm

I have a motor off of a 2005 Jayco seneca the motor has says high torque motor Part # 9551, anyone know of a replacement for this one I called AM Equipment and they don't have a match, this is a different motor than what I have been finding here any help would be great Thanks.


Posted By: MopaRV on 10/13/10 05:06pm

Thought I'd give an update. MOTOR FAILED!!

Thats right folks. In less than a year, my NEW Cardone motor I installed has failed...already. Ridiculous. The motor does have a lifetime warranty from Checker/O'Reillys, but what a pain. I have one ordered, and expect it to come in a week.

I'll keep you posted.


Posted By: rad valve on 10/13/10 06:08pm

alpineman wrote:

I have a motor off of a 2005 Jayco seneca the motor has says high torque motor Part # 9551, anyone know of a replacement for this one I called AM Equipment and they don't have a match, this is a different motor than what I have been finding here any help would be great Thanks.


The high torque sticker on your motor is put on by Kwikee.
You have the UT motor or Siemens brand motor.


Posted By: MopaRV on 10/31/10 03:12pm

Well after a mix up at Checkers/O'Reillys I finally received my motor after waiting 2 weeks. Had to pay for new and then get refunded after returning old motor.
The new motor looked the same, but again, the gear had to be filed down for the conversion gear to fit. I should have removed that part off the old motor to avoid having to do it again. DOH!
I also had to grind down that little ear on the motor for it to seat properly.
Lastly, I had to remove the c-clip before mounting the conversion gear. I dont remember if I had to the first time.
Otherwise the rest was the same for me, pretty straight forward and easier now with my experience LOL.
I DO hope this is the last time I have to do this. This motor better last more than 10 months.


Posted By: john5079 on 11/08/10 01:03pm

i just ordered a Dorman 742-206 from Amazon.com for $41.92 w/ free shipping

* This post was edited 11/08/10 03:50pm by john5079 *


Posted By: MopaRV on 11/12/10 05:02pm

Hey John,
I just looked at the picture of your Dorman at Amazon. Be sure and read the whole post. I showed how this style will not work in this application. But hey, if you get yours to work, let us know. Good luck.


Posted By: resqguy on 04/17/11 01:56pm

I just had my 28 series motor die on me. After looking through this thread I have found that most of the sources, links etc., are stale and no longer work.

So I need a motor replaced but I'm having trouble finding a source. I don't have a local junkyard. Autozone and NAPA don't list window motors online. The part numbers listed in this thread don't return anything.

The Cardone 82-306 requires modifications, but I'm not skilled on filing down the gears.

What options do I have?


Richard and Pat

Major, the 13 yr old Golden
Charlie, our Corgi mix
Galen, our Cardigan Corgi


Posted By: chuckmsp on 04/17/11 02:56pm

Advance auto has the parts and Auto Zone can order them but most stores have them in stock.
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/1/3/2005-ford-taurus-window-motor


Posted By: Flyfisherman128 on 04/18/11 05:20am

I took my motor out, got the manufacturers name, looked them up on the internet, emailed the manufacturer and they send me a replacement for $25.


Posted By: lfeather on 04/18/11 06:32am

Flyfisherman128 wrote:

I took my motor out, got the manufacturers name, looked them up on the internet, emailed the manufacturer and they send me a replacement for $25.


Flyfisherman128

Can you share the name of manufacturer and possibly the website link? Thanks


Larry, Debbie,Tomi and Daisy
USAF Retired
2003 36' Country Coach Allure #30856
2008 Tacoma Towed
SMI Air Force One toad brake



Posted By: rad valve on 04/18/11 02:57pm

Mite be talking about this company. Kwikee uesd there motors.


http://www.amequipment.com/


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 04/18/11 04:57pm

Wow

I am amazed at the number of people that have looked at this.

It's been over 3 1/2 years since I first posted this fix for my steps.

I am glad to see that people are still contributing to it and updating

any information needed. This is what makes this forum such a great

place. This was written for my 96 Model year Coachmen, so I can

understand why some of the links are stale, or not fitting for the

newer rigs.


Posted By: Flyfisherman128 on 04/21/11 07:11pm

it was am motors


Posted By: wagonmaster2 on 08/26/11 07:59pm

rad valve wrote:

Mite be talking about this company. Kwikee uesd there motors.


http://www.amequipment.com/


My hat's off to you and Flyfisherman for this tip. I noticed there was an AM on my motor housing but had no idea what it meant and there were no other names or part numbers. Went to the AMengineering web site and there was an exact picture of my motor, and I mean exact, every line and mark on the case was exact. Called them, verified it was the one I needed, and got one on the way. Even after talking to them on the phone they told me to go to their sales web site and order from there, saving 25%. Great service.

And no more trying to guess which vehicle and which side I needed the window motor for, or if it would work. Now I'm getting the exact replacement, $39.75 + $13.96 UPS - boy do they stick it to you for a small light item.

But, again thanks to you both for sending me in their direction.

Wagonmaster2


Posted By: MopaRV on 10/29/11 08:37pm

You won't believe this, because I don't believe this...but my Cardone step motor failed AGAIN. That makes (2) failures in less than a year each. Wow. This time it wasn't the motor itself, but the plastic gear in the head assembly stripped out. Since I still had the original bad kwikee motor, I took the gear out and put it in Cardone head. Its all working again now, but I will never, ever buy a Cardone anything, ever again.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 10/29/11 09:03pm

MopaRV sorry for your problems, my steps had the metal gears I don't think I will ever throw those out with all that torque and pressures It's hard for me to understand the design switching to plastic or nylon gears. Good thing you kept yours also.


Posted By: MopaRV on 10/30/11 08:18pm

My original step motor had the plastic gear. So just replaced plastic with plastic. Yours was metal, ozarkwoods? Wow, lucky. That one I pulled from the pickapart whose housing would not work, had metal innards, 2 interlocking fingers(?) rather than gears. I couldn't figure out how to get those to work. Oh well, guess I'll be posting again soon with a problem LOL


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 10/30/11 08:34pm

Yes, they are the original steps for my 96 Coachmen Destiny. Metal take a look at the photos at the beginning of the thread.


Posted By: MopaRV on 10/30/11 09:14pm

I'm not able to see the gear in the motor housing in your pics. Maybe we're talking about different things. I'm talking about the gear under the plate held with 1 philip head screw. See pic.
I have '97 Coachmen



I would take pics of the parts but my cell camera broke.


Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 10/31/11 05:29am

I see, yes we were talking about two different gears. I thought you meant the gears actuating the steps. I have had my Dorman motor in now for 4 years. Gosh has it been that long..wow how fast time flies.


Posted By: jtfcons on 10/31/11 04:44pm

longhauler wrote:

Most likely this is a common commutator style DC motor and the brushes are worn down quite a bit or there is a bad spot on the armature. When Randy taps the motor with a hammer, it is making the brushes in the motor shift and come into contact with the armature or it is causing the armature to shift slightly moving one or more of the brushes off the bad spot. In a lot of cases, motors like these are not setup to be repaired in the field since the cases are sealed o keep out the weather and one has to open them like a can to get to the internals. So a field overhaul is just not possible. One can only swap out the motor as a complete unit like Randy had to. Killer deal on finding the cross over part. I have had to do the same thing with my vette a couple times.

I am sure I will face this same project one day soon as well. I pick up my 95 Destiny M400SI next friday. Drop me a PM about the manual you have. I think I am going to definately need it. Nice write up on the repair, photos, and documentation Randy!


The OP's repair is neat, but, as described above the DC motor brush/armature contact gets worn out. On mine, I took the motor off the gear box, rotated the armature a bit, and put it back together. It's ran fine for 3 years now. The reassembly of the motor, that is, keeping all those small parts in the right place to get it back together was tedious, but very possible. If doing it again and knowing that the assembly was available for <$50, I would probably buy it.


John & Sharon, 2 Daughters, 2 Sons-in-law, 5 GK
Terriers (Chloe)&(Twiggy)
1997 HR Imp., 38CDS, 1 Slide
325 Cummins C8.3Mech., MD3060, EBw/Coast.Sw.,
Toad-98Tracker 4X4 or 03GMC Envoy 4X4, Excallibar TB, Pressure Pro TPMS, Henderson Mot. Ctrl. Units



Posted By: vladen on 10/31/11 04:52pm

ya its definately a motor they use in car and truckwndows, thanks this will save me some research or buyin that foolish kit


Vlad's busy workings

All hope is gone




Posted By: folivier on 01/13/12 10:04am

I have Kwikee series 32 made in 1993 steps. The large metal gear in the gear housing had a couple broken teeth. I ended up turning the gear so that it uses the other side and it is working for now. \\
I sure would like to find a new METAL gear. I really hate the thought of having to pay so much for the conversion kit from Kwikee that has the plastic gears.
anybody ever found the gear or gear case assembly?


Posted By: rad valve on 01/13/12 03:31pm

folivier wrote:

I have Kwikee series 32 made in 1993 steps. The large metal gear in the gear housing had a couple broken teeth. I ended up turning the gear so that it uses the other side and it is working for now. \\
I sure would like to find a new METAL gear. I really hate the thought of having to pay so much for the conversion kit from Kwikee that has the plastic gears.
anybody ever found the gear or gear case assembly?


This it the company that made the gear boxes and linkages and gears for Kwikee I don't know if you can get parts from them.

http://www.henrymfg.com/default.asp?active_page_id=1


Posted By: jsimons3 on 01/14/12 10:42am

Just replaced mine a week ago. Bought the conversion kit for series 32 ... 202 dollars ppl houston tx. ....solved all my problems.


jsmns8


Posted By: D.E.Bishop on 01/14/12 11:03am

Dorman no longer makes that motor but ACI does and AutoZone carries it. See my post, Part number and mfg of Kwikee step motor dated 01-14-12, for details.


"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
1990 Bounder 27D
06 Suzuki Grand Vitara 4X4
Stowmaster 5000



Posted By: theburren on 02/01/12 02:03am

I have a model #909506000 sealed control unit with newer (used) steps that I think I may have sizzled. I decided to re-run my ground from the main fuel tank since the gauge stopped working, and as luck would have it the ground wire location for my Kwikee steps was most accessible on my '92 Safari-- I didn't disconnect the battery power to the steps before removing its ground. It sparked a bit, but nothing major--
So I attached the new ground from the fuel tank, but after reconnecting the Kwikee ground wire my steps would not stay extended.
The steps would go down and then immediately back up into the retracted position regardless of whether the door was open or closed. I made sure everything was back the way it was...checked the fuses.. nothing.
There is an open purple wire coming from the control unit wiring harness that I believe was unattached previously, since there is nothing I see that it could connect to. Its an old coach and the wires were all tied up underneath. After playing with the unit for a bit trying to figure out if I fried the insides by disconnecting the ground without disconnecting it from the battery.. the motor unit has stopped retracting and appears seized in the extended position.

Is it possible that I fried the control unit JUST by removing the ground? Thats all I did.. honest--

The light goes out and the control unit clicks when shut the door but the motor doesn't make a noise and doesn't move--
Thanks


Posted By: Johnny G1 on 02/01/12 11:53pm

I have had to take the motor off to release the steps twice now because they were jammed, seemed over centre for some reason, driving me nuts, have had to replace the crooked arm the second time now because of over pressure and it is brokin again, have reset the step stop bolts so don't know where to go next, other than put a manual switch on and for get about all the automatic stuff, have thought of a 3 way switch, any thoughts would be very much appreiated.


1998 34' Newmar Mountain Aire,210 Cummins Puller, 542 Allison 4 speed, BD Performance Exhaust Brake, BD Torque Convertor, Hendrickson Air suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes. 4-120 Watt 2-80 Watt Kyocera panels 8-T105s 2013 Golf Wagon TDI with tow dolly.


Posted By: C-Leigh Racing on 02/02/12 06:09pm

That three way switch sounds good.
One 12V hot wire with a jumper wire hooked to the other switch side & then two wires from each switch side, then all four wires running from the switch to the motor connector plug end converted down to two wires.

Walla, overide switch doing away with that crazy control box & D/H will get a little recongnition boost from on looking thinking hes opening the door like a gentelman & helping D/W out of the M/H.
Neil


Posted By: theburren on 02/02/12 06:40pm

C-Leigh Racing wrote:

That three way switch sounds good.
One 12V hot wire with a jumper wire hooked to the other switch side & then two wires from each switch side, then all four wires running from the switch to the motor connector plug end converted down to two wires.

Walla, overide switch doing away with that crazy control box & D/H will get a little recongnition boost from on looking thinking hes opening the door like a gentelman & helping D/W out of the M/H.
Neil


Hmmm. I'd like a manual switch too, actually...
sadly, I'm having trouble understanding completely what you recommended--
Is there a "How to convert your Kwikee steps to Manual using a 3 way switch for Dummies" version?


Posted By: D.E.Bishop on 02/02/12 10:00pm

Johnny G1 wrote:

I have had to take the motor off to release the steps twice now because they were jammed, seemed over centre for some reason, driving me nuts, have had to replace the crooked arm the second time now because of over pressure and it is brokin again, have reset the step stop bolts so don't know where to go next, other than put a manual switch on and for get about all the automatic stuff, have thought of a 3 way switch, any thoughts would be very much appreiated.


If your motor is applying that much torque you have a bad controller. The controller senses the current rise when the arm hits the stop on the gear casting. The only thing the adjustable stops do is keep the steps from rattling. The controller is expensive but it beats tearing the stupid motor/gear assembly apart.

Someone listed the old address and phone numbers for Kwikee. They were bought out by a gear company that makes slide mechinisms for RVs. They will not deal with end users and sometimes they will not deal with dealers either. Good luck finding someone knowledgable to help you.


Posted By: D.E.Bishop on 02/02/12 10:16pm

MopaRV wrote:

Just testing to see if I can post a pic

By rummyron at 2009-11-25


Try this link, it took me two years to find the exact motor. I tried the spacers and all that junk and accidently found a link to ACI and there it was.


Posted By: theburren on 02/04/12 07:27pm

theburren wrote:

C-Leigh Racing wrote:

That three way switch sounds good.
One 12V hot wire with a jumper wire hooked to the other switch side & then two wires from each switch side, then all four wires running from the switch to the motor connector plug end converted down to two wires.

Walla, overide switch doing away with that crazy control box & D/H will get a little recongnition boost from on looking thinking hes opening the door like a gentelman & helping D/W out of the M/H.
Neil


Hmmm. I'd like a manual switch too, actually...
sadly, I'm having trouble understanding completely what you recommended--
Is there a "How to convert your Kwikee steps to Manual using a 3 way switch for Dummies" version?


Very polite thread--
Lots of help and advice


Posted By: theburren on 02/05/12 04:48pm

theburren wrote:

theburren wrote:

C-Leigh Racing wrote:

That three way switch sounds good.
One 12V hot wire with a jumper wire hooked to the other switch side & then two wires from each switch side, then all four wires running from the switch to the motor connector plug end converted down to two wires.

Walla, overide switch doing away with that crazy control box & D/H will get a little recongnition boost from on looking thinking hes opening the door like a gentelman & helping D/W out of the M/H.
Neil


Hmmm. I'd like a manual switch too, actually...
sadly, I'm having trouble understanding completely what you recommended--
Is there a "How to convert your Kwikee steps to Manual using a 3 way switch for Dummies" version?


Very polite thread--
Lots of help and advice


For anyone reading this in the future, whose control unit goes bad like mine did--
Here are 2 switches that work perfectly when wired directly to the 2 wires feeding the motor unit--no modifications needed... just connect the hot wire and ground to the center terminals, and then reverse the 2 motor wires so that the polarity reverses.. making the motor retract..

The DPDT Switch, ON/OFF/ON Positions, 6 Blade Terminals here:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto........um=50523&subdeptNum=50549&classNum=50557

Or this:

http://www.valmarmarine.com/productdetail/ProdDetail-27237.asp


Posted By: C-Leigh Racing on 02/06/12 09:17am

theburren wrote:

theburren wrote:

theburren wrote:

C-Leigh Racing wrote:

That three way switch sounds good.
One 12V hot wire with a jumper wire hooked to the other switch side & then two wires from each switch side, then all four wires running from the switch to the motor connector plug end converted down to two wires.

Walla, overide switch doing away with that crazy control box & D/H will get a little recongnition boost from on looking thinking hes opening the door like a gentelman & helping D/W out of the M/H.
Neil


Hmmm. I'd like a manual switch too, actually...
sadly, I'm having trouble understanding completely what you recommended--
Is there a "How to convert your Kwikee steps to Manual using a 3 way switch for Dummies" version?


Very polite thread--
Lots of help and advice


For anyone reading this in the future, whose control unit goes bad like mine did--
Here are 2 switches that work perfectly when wired directly to the 2 wires feeding the motor unit--no modifications needed... just connect the hot wire and ground to the center terminals, and then reverse the 2 motor wires so that the polarity reverses.. making the motor retract..

The DPDT Switch, ON/OFF/ON Positions, 6 Blade Terminals here:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto........um=50523&subdeptNum=50549&classNum=50557

Or this:

http://www.valmarmarine.com/productdetail/ProdDetail-27237.asp


Something else that would be nice to add to this, would be two little micro switches mounted to the steps, with 12V hot from the two way toggle switch to operate the micro.
This would be for when to release the manual toggle switch when the steps are at their stopping points. When those micros make contact, they would send 12V a small light to come on, letting us know when to release the toggle switch during operation.

All this sounds like a good deal to do, to get the step in or out, but think about it, when those steps dont work right, then you got to go to work trying to figure out how to fix them.
This way, just flip the toggle switch, get those steps in & be on your merry way, like RVings suppose to be.

Ok, now who wants to design a retro fit kit, that we all can buy from you.
Think about it now, you would not only be making something you probably can make a dollar on, but look at the aggravation & worrieing you'll be taking off of the shoulders of RVing public from not having to deal with that step not working right.

I can see it now, folks traveling, stop somewhere for a little lite break, go to get back in & low & behold that step not work right.
NO PROBLEM, I've got my trusty manual override swtich, so Mr control box you just have your way.
Neil


Posted By: theburren on 02/06/12 10:25am

C-Leigh Racing wrote:

theburren wrote:

theburren wrote:

theburren wrote:

C-Leigh Racing wrote:

That three way switch sounds good.
One 12V hot wire with a jumper wire hooked to the other switch side & then two wires from each switch side, then all four wires running from the switch to the motor connector plug end converted down to two wires.

Walla, overide switch doing away with that crazy control box & D/H will get a little recongnition boost from on looking thinking hes opening the door like a gentelman & helping D/W out of the M/H.
Neil


Hmmm. I'd like a manual switch too, actually...
sadly, I'm having trouble understanding completely what you recommended--
Is there a "How to convert your Kwikee steps to Manual using a 3 way switch for Dummies" version?


Very polite thread--
Lots of help and advice


For anyone reading this in the future, whose control unit goes bad like mine did--
Here are 2 switches that work perfectly when wired directly to the 2 wires feeding the motor unit--no modifications needed... just connect the hot wire and ground to the center terminals, and then reverse the 2 motor wires so that the polarity reverses.. making the motor retract..

The DPDT Switch, ON/OFF/ON Positions, 6 Blade Terminals here:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/sto........um=50523&subdeptNum=50549&classNum=50557

Or this:

http://www.valmarmarine.com/productdetail/ProdDetail-27237.asp


Something else that would be nice to add to this, would be two little micro switches mounted to the steps, with 12V hot from the two way toggle switch to operate the micro.
This would be for when to release the manual toggle switch when the steps are at their stopping points. When those micros make contact, they would send 12V a small light to come on, letting us know when to release the toggle switch during operation.

All this sounds like a good deal to do, to get the step in or out, but think about it, when those steps dont work right, then you got to go to work trying to figure out how to fix them.
This way, just flip the toggle switch, get those steps in & be on your merry way, like RVings suppose to be.

Ok, now who wants to design a retro fit kit, that we all can buy from you.
Think about it now, you would not only be making something you probably can make a dollar on, but look at the aggravation & worrieing you'll be taking off of the shoulders of RVing public from not having to deal with that step not working right.

I can see it now, folks traveling, stop somewhere for a little lite break, go to get back in & low & behold that step not work right.
NO PROBLEM, I've got my trusty manual override swtich, so Mr control box you just have your way.
Neil


Confused... The 3 way toggle switches that I posted links to have On-Off-On positions. One way the steps go out, the other way the steps retract. My steps are just 2-step Kwickee steps... They actually go out or retract in about 3 seconds.. And the nice thing is.. I'm standing right there so I can actually see when they are extended. Then I simply move the switch back to the neutral/ Off position.

Not sure what purpose adding 2 additional switches with alert lights serves Lol!

All in all, it was a great idea by JohnnyG1, so thanks Johnny--

If anyone wants to bypass the control unit, just buy the switch I listed and you will have a working manual in out switch in 15 minutes..

If you want to spend additional time.. wire an amber light under the steps for nighttime visibility--


Posted By: C-Leigh Racing on 02/06/12 03:15pm

What I was thinking, like if your inside the coach & cant see the steps, if they are in or out, those micro switches & little light would let you know when to release the toggle switch.

The step controller box, has a function to tell when the step motor is under load once the steps stop moving & turns the 12V off to the step motor.
If you hook up the manual switch, & have nothing alerting you the step motor has stopped moving & keep holding the toggle switch, you'll soon over time burn the step motor up.

Was just an idea, maybe a bit to much or over kill I guess.
Neil


Posted By: theburren on 02/06/12 03:36pm

C-Leigh Racing wrote:

What I was thinking, like if your inside the coach & cant see the steps, if they are in or out, those micro switches & little light would let you know when to release the toggle switch.

The step controller box, has a function to tell when the step motor is under load once the steps stop moving & turns the 12V off to the step motor.
If you hook up the manual switch, & have nothing alerting you the step motor has stopped moving & keep holding the toggle switch, you'll soon over time burn the step motor up.

Was just an idea, maybe a bit to much or over kill I guess.
Neil


Ahhh.. I understand now..
That might actually be useful then..
More useful though, might be something to kill the 12V to that motor in case you forget to turn it off..
For me.. I'm just happy to have a cheap fix for that broken control unit--


Posted By: C-Leigh Racing on 02/07/12 07:34am

Oh yes, now that is even better idea, use a normally closed micro switch & then with contact at time to stop, it breaks 12V connection.
Oh yes.
Man, I bet we are upsetting some Kwikee step people, bypassing their failure items.
Neil


Posted By: Chris Bryant on 02/07/12 07:49am

FWIW, every Kwikee step is available without the electronics- with a simple switch. People just don't buy them. Microswitches are a fine idea, but will soon become more complex than the electronics, given the current capacity needed and the environment they are in. B&L made an electric step which used a cam operated microswitch with an spdt door switch, and a non-reversing motor.
An easier option for a warning switch would be a magnetic reed switch.


Posted By: theburren on 02/07/12 08:08am

Chris Bryant wrote:

FWIW, every Kwikee step is available without the electronics- with a simple switch. People just don't buy them. Microswitches are a fine idea, but will soon become more complex than the electronics, given the current capacity needed and the environment they are in. B&L made an electric step which used a cam operated microswitch with an spdt door switch, and a non-reversing motor.
An easier option for a warning switch would be a magnetic reed switch.


I believe that... with the money I've seen retirees drop on their coaches--
But thats convenience for them.. I'm glad I was able to set the switch up simply because I didn't want to be at the mercey of the control unit.. But truth be told.. I MAY spring for a new control unit IF I don't find one cheap in salvage, eBay etc..

For me.. simpler is better..
Less things to break..

And it kind of pisses me off that the unit fried JUST by removing the ground wire...
I still don't get that


Posted By: Johnny G1 on 02/07/12 10:45am

If and when the weather warms up here, I will be doing the xact switching arrangement on my steps, I am thinking of using micro switches along with spring loaded power window switches, one inside the the door frame so I can close the steps when we are away from the coach and one on the dash with a light connected to ignition to let me know I forgot to close the steps, at my age that would be quite possible, will let everybody know how it works out, Just my thoughts.


Posted By: theburren on 02/07/12 10:53am

Johnny G1 wrote:

If and when the weather warms up here, I will be doing the xact switching arrangement on my steps, I am thinking of using micro switches along with spring loaded power window switches, one inside the the door frame so I can close the steps when we are away from the coach and one on the dash with a light connected to ignition to let me know I forgot to close the steps, at my age that would be quite possible, will let everybody know how it works out, Just my thoughts.


I like the idea of a warning light on the dash to let me know the steps are down.. I have one of those for my levelers...


Posted By: Raveson on 05/08/12 12:25pm

Thanks for the info, have tried to find a replacement with no luck. Have only been told I needed a complete upgrade system as Kwickee does not sell motors for old systems for about $375. Bought a replacement as you sugested for a Tarus LH front lift motor ($54). Installeed and all sems to be working good. Will wait to see if the intermitant problems return. Hopt NOT. Thanks


Posted By: harpmakers on 05/21/12 12:31pm

New part number DORMAN 742-276 86 Taurus Driver side window lift $45.99 From Autozone (Kincor no longer available.)


Posted By: etmorrison on 05/22/12 02:16pm

Help, my Kwikee series 32 wont extend so I can check the motor and gears. Is there a way to release the steps. I tried direct connecting a 12 battery on the Yellow and Red wires and reversing them just in case, but just sparks and clicking.

This puppy is retracted and tighter than a drum even with power off


ET & Connie Morrison
Hilton Head Island SC


Posted By: C-Leigh Racing on 05/23/12 09:31am

Try tapping on the end of the motor litely while you have those wires connected.
It could be a spot on the armature, where the brushes stop every time & bad enough it cant start the motor turning again.

If you think about how that motor works, steps come on & push the steps out & motor stops just about at the same spot every time. Then the steps go in & the motor stops just about the same spot every time, so over time that motor stopping in the same place & under load until the control box turns the 12V off it could cause a spot on the armature & the brushes not make good contact.

Now if a gear in the gear box broke or the gear box housing itself broke, it could cause everything to bind up & that little motor couldnt over come the binding.
You may can unplug the motor wires & then prize on the steps enough to remove some tention on the steps & then can remove that little pin in the gear box arm to release the steps.
Neil


Posted By: Clay L on 05/23/12 10:30am

etmorrison wrote:

Help, my Kwikee series 32 wont extend so I can check the motor and gears. Is there a way to release the steps. I tried direct connecting a 12 battery on the Yellow and Red wires and reversing them just in case, but just sparks and clicking.

This puppy is retracted and tighter than a drum even with power off


There is a pin that holds the extending/retracting arm to the step. If you remove the hitch pin from the retaining pin and remove the retaining pin the steps can be manually extended or retracted.


Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (Wife), Katie & Kelli (cats).

Fixed domicile after 1 year of snowbirding and eleven years Full Timing in a 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N, Workhorse chassis, Honda Accord toad


Posted By: etmorrison on 05/23/12 11:31am

Thanks I'l go aver to it and see if I can see a pin on the arm, not much room to do anything right now. Stay tuned


Posted By: etmorrison on 05/23/12 02:53pm

Thanks That was the tip very difficult to get to it with the steps up!

Motor seems to run fine but I'll go over it. May be a bad control arm mechanism that locked it up


Posted By: etmorrison on 05/27/12 01:56pm

My steps are up and running.

1. Replaced the step arm mechanism as it was bent Found prices from $32 (Amazon) to $53 (RV dealer) had to pay the dealer price due to time frame over the Memorial Holiday

2. On disasembly of the motor I found the plastic plugs severly lopsided due to all the years of strain, new plugs cost $8.00 at Autozone or Amazon, other than that the Autozone Ford Mark VI would have worked $ $44, but I saved myself $38

Thanks to everyone who chipped in knowledge


Posted By: alorio1 on 05/27/12 04:04pm

Just rplaced my 25 series Kwikee step motor with a Dorman 742-277 window lift motor for a 1986 Ford Taurus driver side window lift motor. They said the Taurus had a high torqe motor which is why the number ends with 277 meaning high torqe. My steps zip in and out with this motor application. It was a special order item but only took one day for them to get it to my local AutoZone store. I also noticed AutoZone had rebuild kits for Dorman window lift gear boxes (plastic gears) in the Help section of the store. My hight torqe motor with gear box was less than 50 bucks. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.........


Posted By: acordn on 10/01/12 02:42pm

I have the same problem as Foliver. I was wondering if someone or he found the gear for the gear box.


Posted By: SCOMP225 on 10/21/12 06:15am

Awesome info on Kwikee Step motors.
Just to add some info:
Yesterday my steps started or failed to fully retract or extend. Sounded like something was stripped - a gear or something, they just stayed in one position and the motor was skipping.
Pulled the motor out and inspected the gears- all looked good in the gearbox. Next I disassembled the motor housing and found that the Tri-Gear that inserts into the worm gear was loose and I could turn it by hand. Hum ! Pulled the Tri-Gear out and there were chunks of Plastic all chewed up. Did some research and found that NAPA sells a Dorman Window Regulator repair kit part # ( 655-1502 ) that consist of a Plastic gear and 3 Plugs that insert into the Tr-Gear to lock the movement. Lubed it up - reassembled the motor gear and the steps work as they did before.
Just thought I'd pass this along.


Chuck
1992 American Eagle



Posted By: Deano56 on 06/13/13 07:19pm

i know this is a old thread but has anyone found a replacement motor for the old Delco motors that were used in the older Kwikee 28 steps? I have a 1990 coach


Posted By: alorio1 on 06/13/13 07:31pm

harpmakers wrote:

New part number DORMAN 742-276 86 Taurus Driver side window lift $45.99 From Autozone (Kincor no longer available.)


This is what I used on my single step 97 Winne Brave....


Posted By: ettelbrick on 06/29/13 01:39pm

Hello,

I removed my entire motor gear assy for the same reason as some...steps would not open from time to time. To me, the motor just sounds weak so I went to this forum and saw that awesome post but cannot access the 32 photos as there is a message that the original person who posted had removed the photos...does anyone have the photos?
Thanks


Posted By: alorio1 on 06/29/13 02:20pm

I was also intrested in viewing them ,thanks alorio1


Posted By: cvbdsl on 07/28/13 01:19pm

Great thread but I was hoping to find more information on gear boxes than motors. Anyone found a replacement for the gear yet? Anyone know is a thread might have been started on gear boxes?

I'm thinking I have to go the $200 route for the conversion kit just to get a replacement gear box for my series 32 steps for a 99 DSDP.

thanks


Chris


2003 Dutch Star 4005
2013 Ford Edge - Ready Brute Elite Tow Bar/Blue Ox Base plate
Retired Canadian Army WO (1971-2000)


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