saggys

WI

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Joined: 02/02/2008

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Steve_in_29, Yes I need a 24". I tried a 18" extension and it was too short. The S&S has a good sized bumper on it causing more overhang. I weighed the tongue this morning, it is 203lbs.
* This post was
edited 05/26/08 01:08pm by saggys *
1999 F350 4WD CC SRW V-10, 4.30 Tow Package, HD Camper Package.
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Matthew_B

The boonies near Dallas, Oregon

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Joined: 08/18/2005

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Here is what I did for my extension:
Rather than take the load forward and transferring it sideways, I made an A frame extension that takes the load to directly below the frame rails. This way, the cross tube was no longer important for the main load. The cross tube only keeps lateral loads from opening or closing the A under longitudinal forces (braking or accelerating).
Here is the rear view of the receiver.

Receivers are 3.5" square tube with a 4" tube reinforcing wrapper around the ends. The tubes are set at an angle of 16°.
Side view:

The tubes are welded to a 3/8" angle steel that attaches to the frame.
Extension parts:

The two tubes are 3" square tube. They weigh 28 lbs each.
The center section is made from cut off 3.5" tube and a pre-fabricated standard 2" receiver piece from Reese. The center part including the chain and turnbuckle is 31 lbs.
Pins are 3/4" implement pins. (Regular 5/8" pins are commonly only 3.5" long, so I had to use implement pins to get the length.)
Installed:


Here is the whole assembly before installation:

PM me your email and I'll send the plans if anyone is interested.
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SoCalDesertRider

SanDiego, CA, USA

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Joined: 12/14/2003

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Crumm and Matthew B, I like both of your hitch extension systems.
Put some paint on that thing!
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Crumm

Fairbanks Alaska

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SoCalDesertRider wrote: Matthew B, put some paint on that thing! 
I keep telling him that too but he just won't listen
96' F350 PSD with smoke added, Airbags, Trailmaster SSV shocks, 315/75R16 Toyo M/T, Centering guides.
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Crumm

Fairbanks Alaska

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saggys wrote: Nice job Crumm, how did you anchor side chains and to what? The receiver? That looks every bit as stout as what could be purchased.
The side chains are hooked to machine eye bolts which are bolted into some existing holes in the ends of the receiver cross tube just below where it is bolted to the frame. I think you can see them in this picture.
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Matthew_B

The boonies near Dallas, Oregon

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Jeez, tough crowd. I'm reposting an old photo. It's primered right now. I'm going to borrow my dad's sandblaster and airless sprayer to put a nice finish on it this summer.
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JoeChiOhki

Sauvie Island, OR

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Joined: 11/20/2003

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Here's my setup. The reciever on the truck is a Class IV Draw-Tite. To reinforce it we used a piece of quarter inch plate steel which was welded to the stock Class 3 hitch built into the rear bumper. The extension is double walled, with the larger section slid over the quarter wall 2" tube. To keep from putting all the sheer stress on the welds solely, a large piece of round bar was placed through the two overlapping tubes and plug welded in addition to the outer weld on the edge of the tube.
The overall extension length is 48" and I've placed at least 200lbs of tongue weight on it in the past. And yes, I know it needs to be painted, we're adding a flip down step to the existing step to accomodate the trucks air bags.
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Boatycall

Tacoma, WA

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I made one.
I went to Superhitch in Kent, WA. Went up to the counter, made out the check, and out came a 48" extension! It was magic!
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saggys

WI

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Thank you Joe Chi Ohki, Matthew B. and Crumm for your excellent photo's and idea's. I have a vacation planned in a couple weeks and after that I am dropping the factory receiver and letting the fabrication begin! I would consider a new Superhitch but I just purchased the rear Torque lift tie downs to work with my factory OEM Ford hitch and I don't think the curved inserts would work on the Superhitch and the e-bay dealer wasn't much help! I don't want to spend an additional $200 bucks for new rear tie downs. Boatycall,
I get yea... but I have just made out checks to Rickson, Torquelift, Fastgun, Firestone, Rancho and Kreamer Spring and my wrist is getting cramped! My other option is too modify the rear tie downs and get a Superhitch, that would be easiest but more expnsive.
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SOUTHERNSAGE

MOBILE, ALABAMA

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Joined: 10/06/2007

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Crumm, You got a nice setup. ingenious ideas are better than a lot of money spent for something off the shelf. I built one very similiar to yours. it is a 4 feet Reese extension shick is needed for a Lance 1161. In place of the farm type adjustable hitch bar you have,I used 2 turnbuckles and a short section of chain around the hitch ball. I also have the horz. turnbuckles as you do. When all these items are tightened up, the system goes into strong compression and will carry a heavy load. the vertical member gives a lot of support and counteracts the downward force of the hitch weight. I simply got a solid section of shaft for a two inch hitch about 18" long that fits into both the hitch and extension. I had it welded up and drilled at a welding shop. Other than the extension and turnbuckles, the whole setup cost me about $25.00. The heavest item I will tow is a boat trailer about 300-350 lb tounge weight. It also works great for a rack mounted behind the camper. This rig winds up with the extended hitch ball being about 50-52 inches behind the truck ball. I have had 3-200 lb+ people stand on it and bounce some concurrently. No give is apparent. The only problem with this setup is backing the boat trailer. The pivot point is a long way behind the rear tires.
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