I am in the process of replacing the receiver on the truck listed below. I recently replaced my 800 lb WD bars with 1,200 lb bars to better handle the new TT this year with a heavier TW. Well, in a hurry I just stuck the new bars on and I think it was too much for the receiver to handle (stock '02 GM receiver ) and the bottom part bent upwards which is why I am replacing it now. I am looking mainly at either Reese or Putnam. I do not have the actual loaded TW (getting that in a couple of weeks) but the "dry weight" is about 750 so loaded I'm definitely over 800 with just propane added.
Some questions.
1) The local Reese dealer said I could go with a Class III/IV receiver that is rated for 1K TW and 10K total weight using the WD. Would I run into any problems uaing 1,200 WD bars on a receiver only rated for 1K? My guess is yes but the tech didn't think it was a problem.
2) My existing hitch has the wiring harness plug welded to it. For those that have replaced the receivers, what have you done with the plug? Re-weld? Bolt? It's mounted right to the receiver so it has to be moved.
3) I've looked at Etrailer.com, any other good online retailers that I should check out for it?
Thanks,
Mike
Mike & Company
2012 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab (5.3L V-8, 3.42 rear gear)
2008 KZ Spree 318BHS
Reese W/D & HP DC, Prodigy brake controller
I am curious about your weights. According to http://www.trailerlife.com/output.cfm?id=42175, your truck will have a tow rating of 7300 pounds, with the info you provided in your signature. The trailer GVWR is 7500 pounds. You are at or over your truck towing limit. I have a 2008 Sierra, 5.3L, ext cab with the same gear ration, and my rating is 7500 pounds, so you cannot be much more then that. Keep in mind that your tow rating is reduced with passengers and cargo in the truck. In my opinion, you are over the limit and this can be an accident waiting to happen. I would think that maybe this would be more important then changing out a hitch. Maybe changing out the truck or trailer should be a higher priority. Have a look at the bottom half of this link from the trailer web site:
http://www.kz-rv.com/spree/specifications.html
Bob & Ang
Shaela & Duncan
2008 GMC Sierra 1500
2006 Outback 21RS
Victoria, BC
Canada "It's all good"
shaela21, he's only overloaded if the trailer is loaded to its GVWR.
99.9999% of the time, the trailer with options and stuff still ends up significantly lighter than its GVWR, often by 1000lbs or more. That trailer tips the scales at 7000, at most.
While he may be near the limits, he's likely still under them.
Draggo, unless your tongue actually weighs more than 1000lbs, using 1200lb bars on a 1000lb receiver should work just fine, if you set up your hitch properly. Now, if you actually try to transfer 1200lbs (tongue weight plus some of the rear end of the truck!!!), you will overload your receiver. A well-designed receiver has safety factor built in, and should be able to withstand a full 1200lbs for the life of the truck, but that safety factor is not well advertised for liability purposes. You don't know if the factor is only 10% (100lb overload) or 50% (500lb overload), and you're risking life, limb, and vehicle here, so don't do it.
2002 Chevy 3500 DRW 8.1L/Allison
2000 Palomino B1500
...and the reason why I need a DRW to haul a Palomino:
2004 United 7x14 tandem axle enclosed toy trailer
2011 PJ 8x20 7-ton deckover equipment trailer
Graybeard
02, 2500HD, ext, 4x4, sb, 8.1, allison, 3.73, 50gal TransFer Flow
85 GMC, CC dually, 454 now 489", 4spd Gear Vendor OD, 70 gal Transfer Flow
30'Layton TT
24' open car hauler w/40" semi sleeper on the frt. plus 8000' winch
Thanks to all those that replied. I have ordered a Putnam Class 4 hitch with the 1,200lb/12,000 rating. I know the 12K is way more than I would ever tow with this truck but I wanted the heavier TW. Got a good deal on it through RV Direct, ordered it Tuesday and should get it today.
I did a couple of short tows with the existing receiver since it did still seem to be solid and I couldn't see any real damage to it but I decided that I wasn't comfortable with it and since those years are known to have problems I just decided to replace it and not have to worry about it at all.
To those that have replaced the receiver on similar year Chevy trucks, there are 2 bolts right where you put the shank in that go up into the bumper, how can I get to the top side of them since I am assuming (maybe that is a mistake) that there is a nut up there that I will need to get off. Do I need to take the black plastic bumper cover on the step part off? If so, how do I do that?
Also, as a side note, I did have the rig weighed and although I am maxed out, I am within my overall numbers. Eventually I will move up to a 3/4 ton PU but for now this has to do.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
) and the bottom part bent upwards which is why I am replacing it now. I am looking mainly at either Reese or Putnam. I do not have the actual loaded TW (getting that in a couple of weeks) but the "dry weight" is about 750 so loaded I'm definitely over 800 with just propane added.
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