tberkhouse
Montana
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Joined: 05/17/2005
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I have pex tubing (blue and red) throughout my RV installed with crimp rings. I was told by one person that if I need to make a change or repair, I should use Watts Qucik Connects on the Pex pipe as they are much easier to install and better (i.e. just as fool-proof and leak-proof). Does anyone have any expereince with both types of connectors?
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cm
Dillon, CO USA
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Joined: 08/01/2002
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tberkhouse wrote:I have pex tubing (blue and red) throughout my RV installed with crimp rings. I was told by one person that if I need to make a change or repair, I should use Watts Qucik Connects on the Pex pipe as they are much easier to install and better (i.e. just as fool-proof and leak-proof). Does anyone have any expereince with both types of connectors?
Another choice is the Sharkbite brand. They are brass where the Watts are a composite. In Colorado I have found the Sharkbites at Home Depot and the Watts at Lowes. And some hardware stores will also carry the quick disconnect fittings.
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BluegrassBill
Woodland, Wa. USA
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Joined: 05/24/2003
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I have used both in updating plumbing. They both are easier to work with and make future repairs easy.
Bill & Kathy Francis
95 Itasca Sunrise 29RQ,P32 454 Chevy, Banks,ECM chip.Safe-T-Plus, Bilsteins, Super Steer Bell Crank, Stewart Stage 1 Waterpump, Severe Duty Fan Clutch, OilGuard Bypass Filter, Coolant Filter. Rear Tracbar. 1-5/8" Front Swaybar.
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jay2003
San Joaquin Valley, California
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Joined: 04/14/2005
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I just went through this myself with my fresh water tank. I had issues with the drain valve and the trickle that it produced so I wanted to switch to a bigger valve and drain tube. After doing a lot of research (and not wanting to spend the big $$ on the crimp tool) I went with the Watts quick connectors (also easier to find at Lowes). The crimp on connectors I've determined are a bit more "foolproof" than the quick connects. I ran into a very small drip issue (like one drip an hour) because I hadn't seated the quick connect fully due to a not 100% straight cut on the pipe end. Easily fixed. Then again I do have one of the crip fittings under my sink that has the same tiny drip issue which I still need to fix.
The other reason I went with the quick connects as well is because they have worked very well with my home undersink reverse osmosis drinking water system. When I've had to change the filters out I'm able to quickly disonnect and reconnect without leaks or anything.
I think the RV manufactures use the crimps due to the fact that RV's move and get bounced around. Crimps aren't likely to come loose or have issues in those situations. I check my quick connects every so often before a trip and so far no issues other than the drip I fixed as mentioned above.
05 Toyota Tacoma DC 4x4 SB Off-Road Package w/Tow 128" WB Toyo Open Country A/T Tires
2005 KZ Jag 24JB
WD hitch w/ friction sway
Garmin GPSMAP 60CSx
Honda EU2000i Generator
Me.. the wife, the 6 year old, and the 3 year old
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bill h
coastal reconquista
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Joined: 08/02/2001
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Some of product selection depends on how long you are going to keep the coach. I trust only all metal. It ages better than plastic. I used Pex tubing, brass fittings and Oetiker clamps for my replumbing. No leaks in 8 years.
84 Barth 30 tag powered by ht502/Thorley, Gear Vendors OD
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes
4WD Toyota toad
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sljkansas
Miami Co. Kansas
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Joined: 09/28/2005
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When I bought my new fifth wheel, after about a week I found water in the basement. Had the dealer tech come to my site (we spend 6 months at the lake volunteering and wasn't going to leave it at the dealer) also most every pex clamp ring was leaking. He replaced them all with hose clamps. no leaks since. and are a lot cheaper to buy.
Steve & Linda
Son married (1 DIL, 3 granddaughters 1 grandson)
Daughter in College
Miami CO. Kansas
2004 F350 CC dually 8ft bed 6.0 PSD
2009 Bighorn 3670RL
B&W under bed hitch with 18k companion hitch
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tvman44
Southwest Louisiana
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Joined: 09/25/2007
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I think manufacturers use the crimp type connectors because they are cheaper. but if you are doing a small mod or repair it is cheaper to buy the alternative rather than buy a crimp tool.
Papa Bob
1* DW "Granny"
1* 2008 Brookside by Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"
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LarryJM
NoVa
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Joined: 11/09/2007
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jay2003 wrote:I just went through this myself with my fresh water tank. I had issues with the drain valve and the trickle that it produced so I wanted to switch to a bigger valve and drain tube. After doing a lot of research (and not wanting to spend the big $$ on the crimp tool) I went with the Watts quick connectors (also easier to find at Lowes). The crimp on connectors I've determined are a bit more "foolproof" than the quick connects. I ran into a very small drip issue (like one drip an hour) because I hadn't seated the quick connect fully due to a not 100% straight cut on the pipe end. Easily fixed. Then again I do have one of the crip fittings under my sink that has the same tiny drip issue which I still need to fix.
The other reason I went with the quick connects as well is because they have worked very well with my home undersink reverse osmosis drinking water system. When I've had to change the filters out I'm able to quickly disonnect and reconnect without leaks or anything.
I think the RV manufactures use the crimps due to the fact that RV's move and get bounced around. Crimps aren't likely to come loose or have issues in those situations. I check my quick connects every so often before a trip and so far no issues other than the drip I fixed as mentioned above.
Wow I wonder why they would use PEX pipe on a non pressurized FW drain line. Both the drain and suction on my tank are flex lines. The drain is non reinforced vinyl and the suction reinforced vinyl. See pics below
The drain is the clear line on the left:
Fresh water suction as annotated:
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL
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Washboy
Denver, CO
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Joined: 07/10/2003
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Quick Connects...Push-to-Connect...Sharkbite...They're all good.
I have no concerns using this type of fitting. In fact, my business has more than 130 of them in use for over 12 years. I use them for everything from city water @ 60 psi, chemical lines at 40 psi, and compressed air @ 100 psi.
They're easy to install, and the tubing is equally easy to disconnect...especially nice when trying to diagnose an equipment malfunction or when making system modifications.
I used the Watts brand when adding the accumulator tank to my coach and the AirLift system to my truck.
"If you don't know where you're going, any road will get you there."
2003 GMC Sierra SLT ExtCab 3500 D/A 4X4
2003 Carriage Cameo LXI F34CK3
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jay2003
San Joaquin Valley, California
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Joined: 04/14/2005
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LarryJM wrote:jay2003 wrote:I just went through this myself with my fresh water tank. I had issues with the drain valve and the trickle that it produced so I wanted to switch to a bigger valve and drain tube. After doing a lot of research (and not wanting to spend the big $$ on the crimp tool) I went with the Watts quick connectors (also easier to find at Lowes). The crimp on connectors I've determined are a bit more "foolproof" than the quick connects. I ran into a very small drip issue (like one drip an hour) because I hadn't seated the quick connect fully due to a not 100% straight cut on the pipe end. Easily fixed. Then again I do have one of the crip fittings under my sink that has the same tiny drip issue which I still need to fix.
The other reason I went with the quick connects as well is because they have worked very well with my home undersink reverse osmosis drinking water system. When I've had to change the filters out I'm able to quickly disonnect and reconnect without leaks or anything.
I think the RV manufactures use the crimps due to the fact that RV's move and get bounced around. Crimps aren't likely to come loose or have issues in those situations. I check my quick connects every so often before a trip and so far no issues other than the drip I fixed as mentioned above.
Wow I wonder why they would use PEX pipe on a non pressurized FW drain line. Both the drain and suction on my tank are flex lines. The drain is non reinforced vinyl and the suction reinforced vinyl. See pics below
The drain is the clear line on the left:
Fresh water suction as annotated:
Larry
My FW tank is actually inside the trailer under one of the bunks. The drain is run through a hole through the floor then sealed up. A flex line wouldn't work in a case like mine as you couldn't get a good seal thorugh the floor. A solid piece of PEX is easier to seal round. From the valve to the tank (about 6") is flex though. That made things really interesting. Had to adapt the end of the flex to a solid connection then adapt it to the solid PEX for using the quick connect.
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