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Open Roads Forum  >  Class B - Camping Van Conversions

 > Tank drain hose ideas for a roadtrek

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rolandandlinda

Virginia

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Posted: 11/04/09 08:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We are on a more distant maiden voyage with a Roadtrek 170 (2007 model) but I think the drain arrangement for the black/grey water tanks is similar to many other models and perhaps makes. The "pulverizer sends things through this itzy bitzy hose that is a vinyl of some sort with a helical wire imbedded for strength. The previous owner had a big valve at the end with appropriate plastic parts that meld with the drain hose on one side and the rubber piece on the other (that goes in the sewer opening at a site).

The valve is too bulky; the hose is not beefy enough in close quarters when one is dragging it in and out of a small compartment. After several uses, the hose developed a slit about 2 feet from the end. Judging from the hose when I first got the unit, it appears this may have happened before. In my opinion, the hose is a weak point and the valve (don't know if it is original or a first-owner addition) is way too big.

Has anyone tried anything that works as a consistent arrangement and holds up.....before I go to Lowe's and start inventing...

Roland

booster

Minnesota

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Posted: 11/04/09 09:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Roadtrek hoses are known to be bad, and pretty much all of them failed. We switched to a Sani-con hose which is very flexible, expandable, and fits easily in the storage. It is also much easier to handle. The valve is big, but to get the flow, it needs to be. It will fit into the storage much easier with the Sani-con hose, but with the valve shut off, the handle is wider than the opening, making it difficult. We heated up the handle with a heat gun and bent the handle arms about 60 degrees. It now goes into the storage easily.

Barman

Ashland, Ohio

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Posted: 11/05/09 06:56am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You could do what I did and move the bulk head over to the right more. It robs a few inches from that compartment, but gives you more in the sewage hose compartment where you really need it. It has made the hose storage issues much easier now. If interested let me know and I'll e-mail you pictures of what it looks like now.

Steve & Chris
2006 190 Versatile
Ashland, Ohio

Spdrush

Chesterland Ohio

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Posted: 11/05/09 08:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I finally found a use for a Dremel tool and used the cut off blade to shorten the handle at the end of the sewer hose. The valve still opens easily and i a lot smaller to fit the compartment.

On my second factory hose and am waiting t repace with either Sanicon or the other hose, Thetford I believe, upon the next failure.

2007 190P

reppans

CT

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Posted: 11/06/09 06:58am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 170 and I do think it has a slightly smaller hose compartment and door than the others. My advice is that you spend a half hour or so and practice coiling the hose exactly so, so that the hose goes into the compartment in exactly the same way everytime. It's like a puzzle box - difficult to find the answer, but a piece of cake once you do. If you stuff it inconsistently, you will get the sharp bends and kinks In the hose that turn into leaks, not to mention fustrating yourself.

FWIW, I coil my hose in a clockwise direction (if viewed looking towards the front of the vehicle), giving the hose a half twist with each coil (about 4 coils total), and squeezing each successive coil into an oval to get it through the door. Valve goes in last, pointing upward and outward. I find this method leaves plenty of room, is least stressful to the hose, and prevents any dripping in the compartment. I have the black and bright green stiff hose.

Hit The Road Jack

Treasure Coast of Florida

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Posted: 11/06/09 07:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

reppans wrote:

I have a 170 and I do think it has a slightly smaller hose compartment and door than the others. My advice is that you spend a half hour or so and practice coiling the hose exactly so, so that the hose goes into the compartment in exactly the same way everytime. It's like a puzzle box - difficult to find the answer, but a piece of cake once you do. If you stuff it inconsistently, you will get the sharp bends and kinks In the hose that turn into leaks, not to mention fustrating yourself.

FWIW, I coil my hose in a clockwise direction (if viewed looking towards the front of the vehicle), giving the hose a half twist with each coil (about 4 coils total), and squeezing each successive coil into an oval to get it through the door. Valve goes in last, pointing upward and outward. I find this method leaves plenty of room, is least stressful to the hose, and prevents any dripping in the compartment. I have the black and bright green stiff hose.


Please post pics of this compartment reppans, maybe one of us DIY'rs could come up with an innovative solution...


2006 DIY Dodge Badged Sprinter Conversion

REK1

San Jose

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Posted: 11/06/09 09:07am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check with a Roadtrek dealer. It may still be covered under warranty since they had so many failures. Our 2006 RS's was last year. We too cut off the tips of the valve handle.


Ron - Roadtrek RS Adventurous


rolandandlinda

Virginia

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Posted: 11/06/09 11:02am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for excellent ideas and advice. I found the Sani-con hose and Thetford's equivalent. And, I will try to get a better system for dealing with what I have....knowing that I can replace the hose.

Couple questions:

1. If I were to replace the hose, I presume it is the section that goes from the compartment all the way to the outlet to the discharge pump?

2. Why have a valve in the end? I am used to PVC friction fit fittings that work fine on house stuff. Does one really need a big bulky valve at the end? How about a friction fit cap with a lanyard to keep it from coming off? I am new to this arrangement with a discharge pump, so maybe stuff gets past the discharge pump. This unit is pretty new so once I shake the hose a bit, I don't notice anything leaking but perhaps it occurs over time.

3. Is a better arrangement (if someone has done this) to have a small section of hose that is not moved much, but then it would attached to another piece if one needs it? The hose on mine -- even with 2.5 feet lopped off -- seems more than adequate for anything I have run into.

4. The extended tank gate valve pulls are not the greatest (they were not that good on our older Roadtrek either). Sometimes on the older unit I would open the tank valves at the tank rather than use the extension to a handle, but on this newer unit it is a bit harder to get to. Any suggestions to keep this part of system in good shape or make it work any better?

Thanks for reading. One of the big reasons I am willing to adjust things or change them to make them sailor-proof or easier is because my wife has some physical limitations but may have to use this unit once in awhile on her own. Whatever I do, it has to be straightforward and user friendly for her.

If interested, see a brief general report on another post for this unit.

Roland

rolandandlinda

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Posted: 11/06/09 06:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

booster wrote:

The Roadtrek hoses are known to be bad, and pretty much all of them failed. We switched to a Sani-con hose which is very flexible, expandable, and fits easily in the storage. It is also much easier to handle. The valve is big, but to get the flow, it needs to be. It will fit into the storage much easier with the Sani-con hose, but with the valve shut off, the handle is wider than the opening, making it difficult. We heated up the handle with a heat gun and bent the handle arms about 60 degrees. It now goes into the storage easily.


THANKS. I will follow your solution. I went back out to gently curl the hose...and it split again. I am not rough with stuff, so I was pretty disgusted that it happened that easy. Bad design and material in the hose. Let me know if what you have suggested is different, but it looks like the Sani-con hose is a standard 20-21 feet with an endppiece that is in Camping World. I presume you cut the ties on the old hose and removed it all....then replaced with the new hose from the pump outlet then across the bottom to the compartment, then refastened. If there is anything else I need to watch for, let me know. I order tomorrow.

Roland

rolandandlinda

Virginia

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Posted: 11/06/09 06:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

REK1 wrote:

Check with a Roadtrek dealer. It may still be covered under warranty since they had so many failures. Our 2006 RS's was last year. We too cut off the tips of the valve handle.


I will try but unless they have completely changed the material and design, I would not want the replacement. I am hopeful...but my record of getting things done through the local dealer who calls Roadtrek in turn has not worked well before.

Roland

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