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Topic: Slideout Problem

Posted By: Ronald Kordik on 11/04/09 10:45pm

I bought a 2001 40 foot Dutch Star with one slideout behind the driver's seat. It operated as advertised for about a year and perhaps 20 cycles, but recently it balked at retraction. It begins to lift, but stops in about 3 seconds of operation. I used the jacks to change the coach's minor unlevel condition, but this changed nothing. Sometimes the motor continues to run after the slide has stopped moving, but depressing the slide switch stops the motor. The slide will move by manually turning the 5/8" nut near the center of the shaft.
Please advise and thanks.


Posted By: Economical Handyman on 11/04/09 11:14pm

Possible bad roller or rollers. Or the ramp for the rollers has changed/damaged. Have you used any slide grease on the rack?


DeWayne & Judy
04 3810 Dutch Star
ISL 370
Frank's autoformer
01 Sahara Jeep-toad
Blue Ox Aventa II
F 374382
This is not the "GOLDEN-YEARS", it is the "RUSTY-YEARS" !



Posted By: Deen on 11/05/09 12:47am

We have the same (?) problem on our DSDP. The slide goes out fine but when it attempts to go up the ramp it'll stop. So far we've been pushing from outside or pulling from inside. I did replace the controller ($280) as the voice quit working and I thought it might be bad. That didn't change a thing and the "pot" is turned up all the way. Newmar tech's say the next thing is a new motor/gearbox at over $600.

There was some discussion on it on the site in my sig. One Newmar tech gave the answer that it was either the controller or the motor.

A few owners have taken the motor to a rewind shop and gotten it done for less than $100.


Posted By: jones4110 on 11/05/09 06:50am

If it is a Powergear motor, the gearbox is integrated with motor and both have to be replaced as a unit...unfortunately. It would seem that someone could rework the gear box if the motor is still good. I had unit replaced to the tune of 700 bucks and 6 weeks of backorder. My symtoms were exactly the same as yours by the way.


Joan and Bruce
05 Excursion 39L
powered by 350 KittyCATS on a Spartan
2010 Traverse LT toad (Blue Ox & Breakbuddy)
...and a "road dog" named Max and his gabby sister, Abby.
"May the wind be always at your back and your destination the one you chose"



Posted By: Jones1 on 11/05/09 07:35am

I have a '99 Dutch Star with the same problem and have found that if the coach is connected to shore power or the engine is running the slide operates correctly. Connected to shore power or the engine running the voltage is higher so the amp draw of the slideout motor is a little less. Iwould like to increase the "pot" setting but can't find the controller and Newmar can't tell me where it is located on this coach. You might give this a try.


Posted By: J Walker on 11/05/09 08:47am

These units sound like they are mechanical, not hydraulic. Have you lubed the gears? My HWH slide has gears that can be lubed with light oil, not grease. The latter can get too thick and attract dirt. On my nine year old MH I lubed the gears once and may not have needed that.


Jim Walker
2014 Thor Palazzo 33.2, 6.7 Cummins, 2100 Allison
2009 Malibu



Posted By: wildmanbaker on 11/05/09 09:41am

I have a Fleetwood MH and it has a weight limit of 150 pounds in the long slide. With the 3 basement storage compartments, the over head cabinets, and the dinenet storage drawers, it is very easy to overload it. When it is over weight by a large amount, it does not want to "climb the hill" to come in. With the engine running, it has less trouble, but it seems the weight is the main factor for the large slide retracting.


Wildman



Posted By: Rick Jay on 11/05/09 11:45am

Not sure how the slide controller is wired on the Dutch Stars, but on our GBM (with electric motors slides) a good ground connection on the controller is critical to get the room to extend or retract, but especially retract.

We had a couple of slide related problems with our front slide this summer, and most were related to sloppy workmanship at GBM. But one of the problems was a poor (loose) ground connection for the slide-out controller. During my trouble-shooting, I found that the ground wire (the copper, not the insulation) was black for 6 inches up the wire from it's ground connection.

I cut the wire, cleaned things up and made a new ground connection and solved that part of the problem.

Also, check any ground connections for the motor as well.

Good Luck,

~Rick


2005 Georgie Boy 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22 (Class A)
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (18-Angel, Lexi96.org), 1 girl (13), 2 boys (14 & 11).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.



Posted By: Retiredblade on 11/05/09 12:01pm

All these posts make me gun shy about getting a coach with slide outs, the older I get, I don't feel like pulling wrenches anymore and I don't feel like paying others to do it!






Posted By: dougrainer on 11/05/09 01:03pm

1. The fact that the motor continues after it is done, means that the Transtorque bushing by the motor on the driveshaft is loose or defective. You MUST Torque that bushing down tight before you go any further. Since it slips that would cause a retraction problem, BUT NOT, cause the motor to stop on retract after a few inches. The motor will stop because of a few things.
1. LOW 12 volt power
2. The amp adjustment on the slide controller is set too low
3. The motor is defective
Newmar Slide rooms will NOT operate with the engine running. If you have a Newmar that does operate the slides with the Engine ON, then someone has bypassed the Ignition lock out.
Newmar requires that you either be plugged into Shore Power or have the APU running when operating the slide rooms to make sure you have full 12 volt power to the system.
Leveling or moving the jacks will not affect operation of a Newmar slide room.
Last, the odds are you need a new motor/transmission assbly and a new Transtorque nut assbly. The controller is probably OK. The old motor is probably pulling excess amps and causing the controller to kick out on retraction. The Motor and slide system is a Newmar designed and supplied part. Doug


Posted By: J Walker on 11/05/09 01:23pm

Retiredblade wrote:

All these posts make me gun shy about getting a coach with slide outs, the older I get, I don't feel like pulling wrenches anymore and I don't feel like paying others to do it!


Problems with slides are rare, and once you have one it becomes something you can't live without. Selling a MH without a slide is a problem.


Posted By: angelino on 11/05/09 02:25pm

If it's powergear, the motor has internal torque sensing so when you reach the end of travel as dictated by torque, the motor is supposed to stop. If the motor continues to run after reaching the slide limit, it could be that the motor itself is loose from the gearbox or the gears are stripped, and catch once in a while.

Contrary to what has been said I have a 2000 Bounder with powergear slides. The motor can be removed from the gearbox and has a propensity of loosening from the gear box. The motor has splines that engage with gears of the gearbox. If as I said the motor continues to run after the slide reaches it's limit, either the controller is shot or the gears are stripeed or the motor is loose.





Posted By: Jones1 on 11/05/09 06:23pm

Doug Rainer is correct. The slideout in My Newmar Dutch Star will not operate with the engine running. Thought it would untill I tried it. I guess I had the gen. running. not the engine. I think I will check all the grounds and the "pot" seeting if I can locate it.
Thanks for the correction


Posted By: RayChez on 11/05/09 06:35pm

Can't believe a Newmar owner is admitting to having problems with there coach. But it sounds to me like you need to buy a motor. If you can crank it in, that eliminates a stripped gear or pin.


2002 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser
330 HP Caterpillar
3000 Allison Transmission
Neway Freightliner chassis
2013 Honda CR-V EX
Aventa II
FMCA member


Posted By: Retiredblade on 11/06/09 05:08am

J Walker wrote:

Retiredblade wrote:

All these posts make me gun shy about getting a coach with slide outs, the older I get, I don't feel like pulling wrenches anymore and I don't feel like paying others to do it!


Problems with slides are rare, and once you have one it becomes something you can't live without. Selling a MH without a slide is a problem.


Maybe and maybe not, Alfa is out of business, and their main problem was slides, I have seen Alfa's at the resort we go to with slides half out because of the problems. True, a slide gives you extra space and is nice, and if I did get one I would only want one in the living room.


Posted By: RayChez on 11/06/09 08:26am

I want to read more about Newmars slide problems. I know an RVer that forgot to take the locks off the inside of his Newmar and busted the inside of the slide. I never could figure out why Newmar ever come out with those slide locks. I never have had problems with my Gulf Stream slides, but mine are hydraulic.


Posted By: ROFCIBC on 12/07/09 11:22pm

Jones1 wrote:

I have a '99 Dutch Star with the same problem and have found that if the coach is connected to shore power or the engine is running the slide operates correctly. Connected to shore power or the engine running the voltage is higher so the amp draw of the slideout motor is a little less. Iwould like to increase the "pot" setting but can't find the controller and Newmar can't tell me where it is located on this coach. You might give this a try.


I've got a 2005 Dutch Star with four slides. 4023 floor plan.

Three of the controllers are located under the lavatory on the passenger side, the one just aft of the shower. Those three work front left,(the one with voice) front right, and rear right. The one for rear left is behind the furnace under the refrigerator.

FWIW the only problem I've had is my front left (the biggest one naturally) one time stopped when it started up the ramp after coming in about six inches. Third try it worked OK.

Controller was set on highest cut out value. The slides stop when the motor reaches enough resistance and starts to draw more amps of current. When that reaches the value set on the controller it stops. Mine were all set at max, so I ruled that out.

Finally discovered that three of the four bolts holding the motor/drive gear reduction on the frame were loose. The fourth had fallen out. So I tightened up three and put the fourth back in. Used loctite and torqued them down TIGHT.

Called Newmar and they suggested vibration through use had caused the bolts to back out/get loose. I countered with the fact that NONE of the other 12 bolts on the other three motor/drive gear units were loose. IOW I marked it up to sloppy work when the coach was built.



2005 Dutch Star DSP 4023
Thank you, Mr. Newmar
Mr. Spartan
Mr. Cummins &
Mr. Allison



Posted By: ROFCIBC on 12/07/09 11:29pm

dougrainer wrote:


Newmar requires that you either be plugged into Shore Power or have the APU running when operating the slide rooms to make sure you have full 12 volt power to the system.
Doug


I had not heard that and many times I have extended/retracted all four slides without shore or generator power. It does make some sense to have that 110 volt power...but as I've said...I've done it on 12 volts a lot.

One rule I have is, I always put the jacks down before I move a slide out and leave them down until they are all retracted.



Posted By: ROFCIBC on 12/07/09 11:47pm

RayChez wrote:

I want to read more about Newmars slide problems. I know an RVer that forgot to take the locks off the inside of his Newmar and busted the inside of the slide. I never could figure out why Newmar ever come out with those slide locks. I never have had problems with my Gulf Stream slides, but mine are hydraulic.


I just about did that ONCE, as I missed a lock arm on one side of my left rear slide. Fortunately I had and always have kept my finger on the switch until the slide shuts off by itself just to make sure it doesn't meet some resistance and keep on keeping on until something breaks!

On a related note, we travel with our four cats and the rule is, before any slide moves four pink noses must be accounted for. When I move the front two, all four are locked in the bedroom, then when I move the back ones, the same four pink noses are locked OUT of the bedroom!



* This post was edited 12/08/09 06:42am by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: dougrainer on 12/08/09 06:32am

ROFCIBC wrote:

dougrainer wrote:


Newmar requires that you either be plugged into Shore Power or have the APU running when operating the slide rooms to make sure you have full 12 volt power to the system.
Doug


I had not heard that and many times I have extended/retracted all four slides without shore or generator power. It does make some sense to have that 110 volt power...but as I've said...I've done it on 12 volts a lot.

One rule I have is, I always put the jacks down before I move a slide out and leave them down until they are all retracted.


You have not heard that????? Maybe because you DID NOT read the Newmar Owners manual. It states quite clearly that they require the Shore or APU running to operate the slide rooms. They state this because that way you can be sure to have a GOOD 12.8 volts to the system. You can operate on battery power, but the owners manual does state this. BTW, I have been a Newmar dealer tech for 18 years, so I do know this Doug


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