Fisherguy
BC Canada
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Joined: 07/31/2003
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When we came home with the trailer for the first time I had to do a u-turn in our cul-de-sac so I could back into our driveway which is in the middle of the CDS more or less.
While turning it with the wheel cranked hard it looked in my mirror like my truck was going to hit the front cap of the trailer, when I got out to look it was very close but wouldn't actually hit.
I guess the tongue on the Komfort is a little shorter than my old Nomad but it sure looks close in my mirrors when turning hard.
Has anyone ever drilled the shank an inch or 2 behind the existing hole to move the trailer back a little for more clearance?
Has anyone actually hit the trailer with their truck?
06 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins 6 spd std with a few mods.
2007 Komfort 274TS
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PapPappy
Wilmington, NC
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Joined: 12/23/2007
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I'm sure that plenty have had a few hits...Ouch!!
Your idea is a good one, but I don't know if I'd recommend it, as a safety problem.
You can however, buy a longer hitch shank, which would have the advantage of more metal in the receiver (something you would give up, if you go and drill the shank).
As I said, it's a good idea, to extend it a bit, to give you the breathing space, but you need to do it the right way,
Good luck!
Bill & Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris
Dogs: Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie, Annie, Maggie & Beau 
RIP: Cookie (Sheltie) & Gidget (Lab-mix) over the Rainbow Bridge.
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April 2008 FMCA# F407293
The Pets
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Fisherguy
BC Canada
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Joined: 07/31/2003
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Yeah, that's what I was wondering, if there's some minimum for the amount of shank past the hole?
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Center Pin
Fort Langley, BC
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Joined: 04/15/2009
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I have a cheap backup camera mounted on my ladder rack pointing down and my trailer also has a very short tongue. I use the camera for hitching up and to avoid backing over kids, it also works well to see clearance between truck and trailer. When I had my Reese DC hitch there was no way they could collide going forward, only backing up could put it in a situation where collision could occur. I now have a HA hitch and it added an extra 10-12" so I can get much tighter angles now.
Come to think of it the shank on my Reese hitch has two holes and stickers indicating 1200/12000 for one and 1000/1000 for the other (I think those are the right numbers)
Trailer: 07 Tango 299BHS
TV: 2004.5 Dodge 610 CTD 3500 QC 48RE 2wd Laramie SRW, FP Gauge, FASS 95/95, Rhino Lining, Hensley Arrow, Reese Signature Series 5er Hitch, Air Bags & Compressor, Canopy, AL Boat Rack.
Been running B100 home brew June 2008!
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BobsYourUncle
Surrey, BC Canada
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Joined: 12/12/2003
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I have had a lot of issues with clearance from my truck to trailer. Now I have to qualify that one. Look at my truck in my sig pic. I have a rack and a big pair of toolboxes. I carry ladders on one side and a brake on the other.
I actually have to carefully plan things when I buy a trailer to make sure I can minimize problems.
I used to have an old prowler that I bought without giving any consideration to clearance. Well one day I was turning tight and WHAM! I punched a hole through the front top with my ladder.
For my current TT I bought the longest hitch I could find and it is barely long enough. I have to be careful but so far no hits.
I have a mobile showroom for my solarium business. That one is way too close and it will connect if I do a tight turn. To alleviate the problem I bought a 9 inch hitch extender:
If you look at the picture, I also had to rig a wiring harness extension as the regular plug would not reach.
You can buy longer hitch extensions, but YOU MUST consider the size of your trailer. Very important!!! You cannot use one of these things with a big heavy trailer. For every inch you go out you lose towing capacity so if you try one of these, make sure you do not exceed your towing limits!!!
Mine is a 9 inch, but my trailer is only about 3000 pounds.
* This post was
edited 11/21/09 06:59pm by an administrator/moderator *
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
Duramax / Allison
Fire Red
95 Sportsmen 25.5' TT
81 Citation 25' "Tail dragger" "Under construction"
"Workin' man's rig"
Bob's Trucks
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nny12972
NY
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Joined: 10/25/2006
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This general subject has come up regularly lately.....the receivers and hitch bars/balls are designed for their weight rating....and every mfg. of hitch products I've looked at, either implies or specifically states in some fashion, that modifications void the warranty and rating.....that includes welding and drilling....and that's why most wiring accessories use cable ties or SS clamps to hold the 7-pin receptacles to the receiver.....
There are many "longer" bars for lower weight ratings, but most of the class IV, and V are short because they cannot design/build them longer with 2" X 2" materials and maintain the rating!
Without offending anyone, suggest you operate within the design/weight ratings/size limits of your receiver, bar, and hitch without modifications....the life and/or rig you save may be your own!
J
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smthbros
Ft Atkinson,WI
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Joined: 02/15/2004
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One of the seldom mentioned advantages to a Pullrite hitch is that it eliminates the chance of TV/TT contact when turning.
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StStg1
Dallas,TX
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Joined: 02/24/2009
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Well, I didn't think that I would realy jacknife my trailer to even get close the TV. However, I was trying to avoid hitting a vehicle across the street while I was backing into my driveway, and yes the front left corner of the TT got into the side of my TV. A small dent yes, but I should have been more carefull. Next time, I will ask the neighbor across the stree to move the vehicle. In my opinion, you shouldn't drill the shank or the receiver. You will just weaken the metal.
2006 COACHMEN SOA 28 RLS
2004 NISSAN TITAN V8
WIFE & FANCY(Lab/Chow mix)
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hedge
Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
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Joined: 07/27/2009
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I am putting a 'sled deck' on my truck so that I can haul 2 quads and tow my trailer. It will be tight especially when the deck is extended out 8'. Has anyone came up with some sort of warning system? I was thinking something I could attach to each corner of the deck that would give me a warning when I'm getting close.
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Fisherguy
BC Canada
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Joined: 07/31/2003
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I don't see how drilling a hole behind the existing one in a 2" square solid piece of metal would make it any weaker or lessen the weight rating of the hitch.
Just went to the Pull rite site, looks pretty cool but pricey I bet..?
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