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 > RV Toilet Floor Flange Size ??

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twocruisin

Crystal River, Florida

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Posted: 04/28/10 09:49am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can anyone tell me if the floor flange on an RV Toilet is the same size as a houshold toilet.......
I'm thinking of replacing the plastic RV Thetford Toilet with a Koller household toilet and tank.....
I have plenty of room in the bathroom to fit a real toilet.......On the road I would just shut of the water supply to the toilet and flush it to get the water out of the tank......
I seems like something I'd like to have, a toilet thats easy to keep clean, quiet and I would have the ability to change the toilet seat whenever I wanted to..

I'm interested to know if anyone has done a job like this and if there is a lot of work below the floor to change the floor flange that holds down the RV toilet to accept a household toilet.......If the flanges are the same size it seems like an easy switch.......

Anyone with experience ??

Thanks,

John


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rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 04/28/10 09:57am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The floor flanges are the same but I would advise against doing this. A household toilet has a top tank lid that will rattle and break. it must be removed. A household toilet will not stop water from sloshing out as you go down the road. The bowl lip is designed for water circulation, not stopping the water from sloshing out. The tank mounts to the base with a rubber gasket. This gasket seals the connection but it does not isolate the porcelain top from the porcelain base. There is a pretty good chance that one or both may beak. The household toilet is also at least twice as heavy as the RV toilet.
Just get one of the porcelain RV toilets, made by a few manufacturers, and rest easy that it will serve you well as you bump on down the road.

Dutch_12078

Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

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Posted: 04/28/10 10:09am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree with Ron, this seems like a bad idea in a moving vehicle. There are several porcelain bowl RV toilets that use a standard toilet seat, such as Thetford's Aqua Magic Style PLus, that would be much better choices.


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twocruisin

Crystal River, Florida

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Posted: 04/28/10 11:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've had a porcelain Theford toilet and didn't like it.....Even when they are brand new you get a smell in the house when you flush the toilet.....A house toilet has a built in P trap that keeps that from happening....Also, a two gallon flush would keep the black water tank working better because of the extra water going down with each flush....

I can attact the tank to the rear wall with lag bolts to hold the extra weight.....I know they already have holes to do so....I have a false wall behind my RV Toilet now that we store toilet paper and I have an automatic fan that vents the room to the outside with a dryer vent.....That's also in the false wall.....

On the road I would shut the water off, flush out the water from the bowl and put the lid down inside my false wall.......When we get where we want to be it would be easy to reverse the process....

As long as I don't have a lot of fooling around with getting the floor flange to fit and put it a wax seal instead of rubber, I think it would be fine for me.......

The extra weight wouldn't mean anything if the tank is secured to the false wall.....

Thanks,

John

Buck62

Charleston, South Carolina

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Posted: 04/28/10 11:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Household toilets are designed to use a wax ring for sealing around the "horn" of the toilet. I am not sure if you will get a proper seal with a rubber gasket. Remember if it leaks around the base you will have a major repair job replacing the sub flooring. Personally, I would not do it, RV's are not designed for household toilets.

rgatijnet1

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Posted: 04/28/10 12:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would just use chemicals in my black tank and turn on the vent fan. If that doesn't work, I would change my diet.
I have never seen any Kohler toilets that bolt to the wall other than wall mount commercial toilets, which hang from the wall and don't touch the floor. The extra weight on the floor from a standard floor mount toilet, and the base being held with only two bolts, might not be enough to keep the flange from breaking at the base as things flex going down the highway.

Dutch_12078

Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

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Posted: 04/28/10 01:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

twocruisin wrote:

I've had a porcelain Theford toilet and didn't like it.....Even when they are brand new you get a smell in the house when you flush the toilet.....A house toilet has a built in P trap that keeps that from happening....Also, a two gallon flush would keep the black water tank working better because of the extra water going down with each flush....

We don't get any smells in the house when we flush our Style Plus, John. We do have a 360 Siphon Vent on the vent line on the roof though, and we always make sure the bathroom fan is turned off before flushing.

Dutch

MAJESTYPOINTERS

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Posted: 04/28/10 01:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To answer your question....without questioning your reason......I replaced my toilet with a new RV fixture......The RV flange on mine was different than I have seen in a house but the "PIPE" was the same (PVC) as used in a stick house so It should be easy for you to change the floor flange.....P.S. Lowes even sell a "WAXLESS" toilet flange so the vibrating should not affect the seal at the floor....Individuality makes the world interesting

Ron8877

Blaine, Washington or wherever we park

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Posted: 04/28/10 01:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All of the rv toilets I have seen have the bolt holes in the front and the back of the toilet not on the sides like a household toilet has. That being said there is a red ring that you can get from the store that is a toilet flange repair ring you could screw this to the floor and then bolt the toilet to this. The wax ring would work although I would recommend a wax ring with horn. If the bathroom floor is strong enough to hold you I don't see where the weight of the toilet would be a problem. If you have the 12 inches from the center of the flange to the back wall it should fit. If you don't have 12 inches there is also a 10 inch rough-in toilet that you can get. The only thing that bolting the toilet to the back wall will do is to help prevent the toilet from moving, it won't help hold any of the weight. If you shut off the water to the toilet for moving and then flush the water out of the tank you would still want to get most of the water out of the bowl before you drive off. One way to do this would be to dump about 2-3 gallons of water down the toilet from a bucket this would drain the bowl and then just put enough water in the bowl to fill the trap. If you decide to do this then you can buy any residential toilet to put in the rv. Good luck.
Ron


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rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 04/28/10 02:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The weight of the toilet is only a problem when it starts moving and bouncing going down the road. More weight means more momentum which means more stress on two small bolts fastened into 1/2" flakeboard or plywood. The toilet will also be more top heavy than the RV toilet which will increase the strain on those two little bolts.

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