hershey
Albuquerque,(fulltime) NM, USA
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Joined: 06/04/2003
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tktplz wrote:Back in the day if you had a ticking or sticky valve a cup or so in the oil freed it up or quieted it down. Don't know of allot of uses for it now. I'm sure synthetics in almost every lubricant pretty much cover any of that so it never happens.
Absolutely correct. I can't tell you how many engines I fixed with sticking hydraulic lifters with a quick shot of Marval Oil.
Todays oils are so much superior to what we had to use then, that I can't remember the last time I heard a lifter clicking.
hershey - albuquerque, nm
Someday Finally Got Here
My wife does all the driving - I just get to hold the steering wheel.
Superman was an illegal alien.
Expedition - Suzuki Grand Viagra
NASCAR 14 - 99
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DUNEBUGGYDOUG
SHELBY FOREST TN.
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Joined: 03/27/2010
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great for air tools also
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Lady Fitzgerald
Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth
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Joined: 04/26/2011
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Back when fuel and oil wasn't as good as it is now, additives did help. Generally, the poorer shape the engine is in, the better it would work. Now, the additive either are just unnecessary or could do damage to the engine. Oil additives could alter the viscosity of the oil. Too thick or too thin will inhibit proper lubrication because of today's tight tolerances. Fuel additives could upset fuel/air ratios which can cause preignition, power loss, or eventually burn up the catalytic converter.
Jeannie
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sssooo
Ohio
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Joined: 03/16/2008
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why do engins today use such a lite oil like 5w 20
my understanding is the colder it is the thinner the oil is and gets thicker as it warmes up
I used to run 10w 40 in everything ?
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down home
south
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Joined: 06/01/2008
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I have forgotten the exact ingredients long ago but it is mostly mineral oil and wintergreen scent and dye.
I used it some a long time back.
Mineral oil is not a good thing in engines.
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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I have never tried it being addicted to Sea Foam which I buy by the gallons.
sssooo thinner oil lubicates better in gas engines with a bit less friction.
Other than the radiator if I find a filler cap I think it needs Sea Foam. 
We picked up an old 1980 Ford F100 with the 300/4.9 straight six in it. The last two evening we have been working to stop the valve cover and push rod cover resealed and after driving it 20 miles to take the kids skating (their reward for getting greasy) it seems like we got the pouring stopped. 
I was at night when we started yesterday but now wish I had pictures. I had never seen that much junk inside of an engine. The last 10 years the owner averaged putting about a 1000 miles a year on it and lived in town part of the time.
With a lot of scraping, gas, laquer thinner, carb cleaner and a few other things we got it very clean. The in-line engines are great because you can clean under the valve covers without dumping the crud into the crank case.
After we got it warmed up we removed and replaced the filter and added 8 oz of Sea Foam. About 300 miles ago we did the first oil change and used 15W-40 Rotella to help start cleaning the engine out on the inside. I am thankful it was a leaker because I expect using the diesel oil was going to free up too much junk too fast. We will keep changing filters to keep taking the black out of the oil for a while.
We find our engines stay clean on the inside but if they are not clean when we get them it can take a while. The high end Fram is only about $6 and a snap to change from the top side on the F100. The F700 is not bad but you have to go under the front bumper. The worse part it it hangs down so the drain down is messy at best.
Internally from time to time it will make a sound like a loose belt under load (yes even with all belts removed ) and I am clueless as to the cause unless it cold be a lifter. There is no loss of power or knocking sounds and it will just show up for a while from time to time.
After about 400 miles and some at 70+ MPH it still runs fine. Until I tighten the belts on Friday I though it was belt, alternator or PS issues. Of course any time you get inside one then hear a noise it is stressfu.
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wagonmaster2
northcentral oklahoma
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Joined: 02/18/2005
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Back in the 40's-60's my mechanic Dad never overhauled an auto engine without putting a can of MM Oil in the crankcase with the breakin oil and he never had a come-back.
That being said, and since I have a pre-2007 diesel motor home and interested in fuel additives for additional lubricity I read an independent study that showed the following results:
Out of 19 samples studied in order 1-19 with number one being the best and number 19 the worst for fuel lubricity;
Number 7 was Super Tech (17 oz per 26 gal fuel) Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 oil (Wal Mart).
Number 13 was used Shell Rotella 15W40 motor oil with 5,000 miles on it.(17 oz per 26 gal fuel).
Number 17 was Marvel Mystery Oil ( 10 oz per 26 gal fuel).
No answer why MMO was so far down the line for fuel lubricity but kind of makes one wonder about using it for oil additive also.
Several of the other samples I didn't recognize.
Wagonmaster2
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Deetour
Washington
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Joined: 06/01/2011
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Lady Fitzgerald wrote:Back when fuel and oil wasn't as good as it is now, additives did help. Generally, the poorer shape the engine is in, the better it would work. Now, the additive either are just unnecessary or could do damage to the engine. Oil additives could alter the viscosity of the oil. Too thick or too thin will inhibit proper lubrication because of today's tight tolerances. Fuel additives could upset fuel/air ratios which can cause preignition, power loss, or eventually burn up the catalytic converter. This 'splains it all. Good job.
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gss036
Bellingham ,WA
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Joined: 11/03/2010
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I had a 1989 Mercury 200 HP 2 stroke outboard engine on my boat and I added MM to the gas quite frequently and also did decarbs with SEAFOAM. I did that to keep the carbon build up to a minimum. It really work for that, I ran the 2 stroker for 19 years before going to a Honda 225 HP 4 stroke motor.
We also sucked SeaFoam in through the brake vacuum line cars/trucks until it would kill the engine and then let them site for about an hour and then restart them, really produced a lot of smoke, but worked to clean out the top end of the engines.
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robatthelake
Vancouver Island
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Joined: 08/24/2003
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sssooo wrote:why do engins today use such a lite oil like 5w 20
my understanding is the colder it is the thinner the oil is and gets thicker as it warmes up
I used to run 10w 40 in everything ?
Actually Oil Gets thicker when Cold and thinner as it Warms Up.
Muli Weight Oil handles Temperature swings better than Single Weight.
In Mexico it is hard to Find any Oil that isn't 40 weight.
In the North it was the other way around with light weight being common for Winter Use!
Now we just use Multi Weight!
Rob & Jean
98 Dutch Star Diesel Pusher ..92 Tracker 4X2
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