beemerphile1
I'm only 57, I'm not yet a
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Joined: 04/20/2007
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Many of the small three-way refrigerators won't stay lit on the road. I made some mods to mine and no longer have it blow out. I found that 12v DC operation was unsatisfactory because I need the juice for charging the batteries.
I bought a re-ignitor which is made for a water heater. Both Suburban and Atwood sell them. I modded it to work in my refrigerator. I also used some aluminum flashing and bent my own wind break to go around the burner. Now it is still lit when arriving at our destination.
Tim
If you aren't paranoid, you aren't paying attention! 
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900 towed by 1998 Ford E150 4.6L = 8 MPG
2009 Aliner Sport towed by 2009 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L = 22 MPG
1996 BMW R1100GS
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vin_bom
SE Michigan
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Joined: 09/03/2008
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I "pre-cool" the fridge on 120V power before a trip and then use the 12V power from my tow vehicle while on the road. As soon as we are parked in a campground, I switch back to 120V power. Seems to work pretty well. Also, I agree that you need to start with cold items in the fridge or it will take a long time to cool down.
Me, Wife, Daughter, Son, Golden Retriever
2011 Chevy Suburban
2007 Fleetwood Cheyenne
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JLTN_James
Colorado
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Joined: 02/03/2009
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I also have a 2005 Fleetwood with the same fridge. It won't stay lit on propoane when driving. I gave up on that a while ago. I don't run it on 12V when driving either. Too easy to forget when stopped for lunch and have arrived at several off-grid camps with low/dead house batteries. My truck already has the relay on the charge line so a dead car battery isn't an issue. I suspect that most TV's charge line don't supply the full power required by the fridge so even when the TV is running, the fridge on 12Vdc is still drawing on the battery.
We have to keep insulin cool so maintaining fridge temp is important for us; hence why we invested in a generator. We have the indoor/outdoor digital thermometer with min & max readings. Like Mike posted, afternoon temps can be much higher than morning temps. I also try to park with the fridge side facing north or east to reduce the afternoon solar heat gain. WARNING: MOD IDEA - Detachable sun shade for the fridge?
If the fridge is cool to start with and loaded with cold food/ice, we can drive 8 hours or so without the fridge warming up too much, even in 90-degree weather.
I did the baffle mod with two independently controlled fans and that helps but can also run down the house battery if left on. The inside re-circulating fan also helps maintain consistent temps inside the fridge.
Pre-cool when possible for as long as possible. My preference is to use 120Vac since the PUP is usually in the garage when not on the road or in camp. If pre-cooling isn't an option, put the cold food in a good ice chest and load the fridge with frozen water bottles, blue-ice blocks, etc. When you get to camp, turn on the fridge and swap ice & food.
All the above are tips that have worked for me. Try many different ideas and use what works for you. Good luck!
2004 Toyota Tundra SR5 (V8, 4WD, TP, TRD)
2005 Fleetwod Allegance with axle flip
Honeywell 2000i Generator
DH, DW, DS, DD, Dog & Cat
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BudRock
WNY
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Joined: 05/19/2005
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Excellent informative post.
Never thought to plug the frig in with the connection in the outside panel.
Thanks
mike4947 wrote:A couple of FYI's
The average 2.4 CF fridge draws apx 10 amps on 12 volt. It also only provides enough BTU's to hold the temp already in the fridge.
Average output:
propane 750 BTU's
120 volt 700 BTU's
12 volt 350 BTU's
While there are some, and I've owned a couple, that resist all attempts to keep the flame going most can be fixed by careful looking and blocking a path that the airsteam takes when under motion.
We've found that starting the fridge up 24 hours in advance on either propane or 120 volt it will keep it's temperature, if not opened, for 6-8 hours.
On electric there's no need to haul out the power cord. Open the bottom exterior fridge vent and there is a plug in you can easily use with an extension cord.
Just like with a cooler the colder thigs go in the longer it will "hold the cold". Don't expect to put in a case of warm beverage of your choice and have it ice cold in an hour or so like a residential fridge.
Another handy thing to get is one of the small battery operated fan cubes for inside the fridge. It keeps the fridge temp even though out and does help in cooling warm stuff a little faster.
You should also know that our small fridges only output a constant BTU. This means when it's hot outside the fridge temp will rise and when it cools off at night the fridge temp drops. Ask anyone who's pulled a head of fozen lettuce out in the morning.
Another valuable option is an indoor/outdoor thermometer. Since I know the temp inside the camper I use one probe for outside and the other inside the fridge. Lets you see the drop/rise inside without opening it and mine came with a freeze alarm so I could get up and readjust the setting.
That's all my slightly senile mind comes up with for now.
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sushidog
Abita Springs, LA
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Joined: 08/02/2007
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I added a fridge baffle to prevent the flame from blowing out on my Aliner while running on propane when traveling. My fridge has 12v capability, but it works much better on propane and it allows all the power flowing into my Aliner from my TV to recharge the battery while towing, as I mostly camp without hook-ups. I got the kit from AdventureRV.net for about $30 with shipping. Here's a link to the kit. http://www.adventurerv.net/baffle-kit-p-21023.html
It basically works by forcing the air take a rather circuitous path to get to the burner, preventing gusts of wind from blowing the flame out while traveling. Here's a few pics of it installed.
The kit consists of 4 pieces (2 components). 3, U-shaped pieces of sheet metal (Dometic calls them lower vent baffles) partially block the lower vents as seen here and are held on by one tiny plastic push pin each (easily removable by hand.) The instructions say that these may be removed once you arrive at your destination to improve fridge performance in very hot weather. Mine only needed the top 2 baffles, and this was enough to keep her lit - your camper may get by with one or need all 3 provided in the kit. I have forced ventilation behind the fridge to keep it plenty cool back there when stopped without removing the baffles.
The second component to the kit is this metal shroud which wraps around the burner cover and flue. It is secured by 2 small self-tapping screws.
Since this kit is a genuine Dometic item I feel safe using it.
I purchased an electronic thermometer with a sending unit, so I can monitor the interior fridge temp inside my TV and while camping without even opening the door and allowing warm air to enter. I got one similar to this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Acurite-Wireless...ometer/16888921
It was about $11 at my local Walmart and provides cheap peace of mind that those juicy steaks and sweet lobster tails will be fresh and safe when I arrive at the CG.
Chip
2006 Aliner LXE
2006 Chevy Cobalt SS
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dougster
California
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Joined: 02/28/2007
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My propane blows out, too. The manual says it is illegal to drive with propane lit in some states, but I could never figure out what states...
I started using 12 v while driving and switching to propane in camp.
Doug, Peggy, 2 kids and a dog
Starcraft 2406
Pathfinder 4x4 V8
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sushidog
Abita Springs, LA
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Certain tunnels restrict the transport of propane whether on or off. Some tunnels even restrict the transport of empty propane tanks. Others only require to have the propane valve closed while in the tunnel.
Many states require the propane to be turned off when fueling your RV or TV. Though an extreme precaution, this one makes sense in my book. Turn off any running, sparking appliance (such as a water heater or fridge), whether the propane is on or not, while fueling.
I've never heard of a state which required you to have the propane off while driving down a normal roadway.
Chip
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