Woodalls Open Roads Forum: General RVing Issues: is this Norcold a 3-way?
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 > is this Norcold a 3-way?

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rovobay

Damascus, Oregon (Portland Suburb)

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Posted: 02/07/12 09:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

looking at buying my first trailer and all I have is a couple pictures of the refer unit. I know it is not much to go on but if someone could let me know if it is a 3-way, I would appreciate it.






1999 Cameo by Carriage 26FLS bought in February 2012 (our first trailer)

TV is a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4X4 Crew Cab Short Bed with a 6.6l Duramax and Allison Transmission

mlts22

Austin, Texas

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Posted: 02/07/12 09:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I might not be much help, but I definitely know it supports 120VAC and propane for cooling. I'd hazard a guess that it also supports 12VDC from the indicator lights on the panel, but I might be completely off-base.

It definitely is two way though.

Old-Biscuit

Across the USA

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Posted: 02/07/12 10:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4 indicator lights on control panel
Auto
AC
LP Gas
DC

3-way reefer
Auto mode will select AC first (if available) then LP Gas (if no AC) and then DC mode.
Manual...push 'Mode' button until you select with operation you want.

Golden_HVAC

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Posted: 02/07/12 10:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

It looks like a two way refrigerator, and I question why anyone would want one that runs on 12 volt to heat the ammonia?

The refrigerator will use about 10 amp hours per day to run on propane, with the whole RV using about 35 AH per day to run the refrigerator, propane leak detector and CO monitor. So you can expect the battery to last about 2 nights without using any other lights, furnace, or anything else running.

You can expect to need a pair of batteries to dry camp more than a couple of nights in a row, and use a generator if you plan on using the furnace or watch TV, or stay in one place more than about 3 nights. (or solar panels)

The 12 volt heating element uses about 30 amps per hour, requires wires larger than what is in the picture, and will discharge the trailer battery in about 3 hours of run time, even if plugged into the tow vehicle and driving. That is why I would not want a 12 volt element. I could only use it at times that I have 120 volt power to recharge the battery - yet the 12 volt element is less than the wattage of the 120 volt element. So basically the 12 volt element is useless.

Fred.

rovobay

Damascus, Oregon (Portland Suburb)

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Posted: 02/07/12 10:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mlts22 wrote:

I might not be much help, but I definitely know it supports 120VAC and propane for cooling. I'd hazard a guess that it also supports 12VDC from the indicator lights on the panel, but I might be completely off-base.

It definitely is two way though.


that is what I was thinkning. . . .

rovobay

Damascus, Oregon (Portland Suburb)

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Posted: 02/07/12 10:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Golden_HVAC wrote:

Hi,

It looks like a two way refrigerator, and I question why anyone would want one that runs on 12 volt to heat the ammonia?

The refrigerator will use about 10 amp hours per day to run on propane, with the whole RV using about 35 AH per day to run the refrigerator, propane leak detector and CO monitor. So you can expect the battery to last about 2 nights without using any other lights, furnace, or anything else running.

You can expect to need a pair of batteries to dry camp more than a couple of nights in a row, and use a generator if you plan on using the furnace or watch TV, or stay in one place more than about 3 nights. (or solar panels)

The 12 volt heating element uses about 30 amps per hour, requires wires larger than what is in the picture, and will discharge the trailer battery in about 3 hours of run time, even if plugged into the tow vehicle and driving. That is why I would not want a 12 volt element. I could only use it at times that I have 120 volt power to recharge the battery - yet the 12 volt element is less than the wattage of the 120 volt element. So basically the 12 volt element is useless.

Fred.


Thanks Fred. . . I just saw the indicator light on the front and got curious. . . I am totally fine either way

gijoecam

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Posted: 02/08/12 06:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Golden_HVAC wrote:

Hi,

It looks like a two way refrigerator, and I question why anyone would want one that runs on 12 volt to heat the ammonia?


I can think of several reasons. First, some fridges will not stay lit in-transit. It's all a function of the particular rig's aerodynamics combined with those of the tow vehicle (if applicable). Sometimes it's just not possible to maintain a flameeat a certain speed or in certain weather conditions (think cross-wind that blows right into the louvres).

Second, most tow vehicles towing a camper or RV with a fridge that size also have the 12V charging capacity built into the system to support running the fridge off 12V. If the 12V power is available on the road, why not use it?

Third, if propane isn't an option for whatever reason (say you ran the heater all night and used up all the propane before sun-up) and you need to hit the road. The 12V option should keep the fridge cold enough until you get someplace to refill the propane tanks.

Fourth, stuff happens. If, for whatever reason, propane isn't an option, and the 120V heating element burns up or shorts out, the RV's converter should be able to provide the necessary 30A feed to the fridge via 12V without an issue.


Quote:

The 12 volt heating element uses about 30 amps per hour, requires wires larger than what is in the picture, and will discharge the trailer battery in about 3 hours of run time, even if plugged into the tow vehicle and driving. That is why I would not want a 12 volt element. I could only use it at times that I have 120 volt power to recharge the battery - yet the 12 volt element is less than the wattage of the 120 volt element. So basically the 12 volt element is useless.

Fred.


30A should not be an issue. The headlights and fog lights on most half-ton pickup trucks draw roughly 5A each. Two headlights, two fog lights, and a cigarette lighter (the curly kind that gets red-hot) will draw about 30A together. If you can run all of them without dimming the lights at idle, there's no reason the system shouldn't also be able to feed the fridge enough juice to keep things cold while cruising down the freeway during daylight. Most half ton pickups have plenty of extra charging system capacity available (in fact my Ford has a 30A charging circuit feeding the trailer).

John & Angela

Full Timers in Canada, USA and Mexico

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Posted: 02/08/12 07:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A handy thing about running a fridge on 12 volt is not having to shut it down at fuel stops. Thats one thing we like about having a residential now. It was never really a pain in a motorhome but a trailer or truck camper was a hassle.


2003 Fleetwood Revolution 40C. Smart car CDI diesel TOAD towed on a trailer
2001 22 foot Vanguard VXL 2200 when travelling in Mexico
Retired Canadian Air Force Technicians

mockturtle

WA

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Posted: 02/08/12 07:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looks like it probably is a three-way but the bottom line is that it doesn't matter.


2000 Born Free 24RB Class C
6.8L Ford V-10 Engine, E450 Chassis
2002 Honda CR-V toad
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rovobay

Damascus, Oregon (Portland Suburb)

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Posted: 02/08/12 08:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I tried to get the button toggled over to the "DC" indicator but the batteries on the trailer were shot. you are all right, if it does have 3-way, that is fine, but if it is a 2-way, no big deal.

Thanks, I was just curious.

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