kgglassdeactivated
Columbia, ILL. USA. by St. Louis Mo.
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No synthetic until you have some miles on it. You need to let the rings seat. Shell Rotella-T 15-40 has worked well for me and My dad has over 150,000 on his dodge and he has used Rotella in it.
Greg
5th wheel 09 Keystone/Raptor 3612DS toy hauler. Pulled by 2007.5 Dodge Ram 3500 4 door long bed Auto trans,4X4,6.7 diesel. Prodigy break controler.
Wife 
6 to 7 Pugs 
NAVY 80 to 04
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Ufda
Alabama
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Joined: 07/03/2002
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As for oil, use ONLY oil that is rated for Diesels! As stated, special additives have been added to lubricate the injectors, stop foaming, etc.
As for filters, I believe in using what the manuf. has spent many $$ on in the development of the engine. For me, that means Motorcraft, or, Purolator, the same filter, the difference being the name and the price. The Motorcraft filter from a dealer runs from $25 to $35, each, however, the same filter is available at Sears for, get this, $2.99, named Purolator, right now they are on sale for $2.66. Don't beleive it? Check out www.dieselstop.com, search on oil filters.
Not sure what filters GM uses but I would still try to maintain the same quality of filter installed at the factory. I don't subscribe to the idea that if it costs more it must be better.
My preference for my F-250 is: Delo 400, 15W40, Pruolator (from Sears) and fuel filters from www.dis.com. My fuel filter is changed about every 15k miles. The oil/filter change interval depends on the usage of the engine, again, your manual will guide you.
The synthetics are ok, but very pricey. Why pay $5.00 a quart when the crankcase holds 15 quarts and you can buy Delo 400, Shell Rotella, etc. at Wal-Mart for right around $6.00 a gallon? Both are proven oils, used by most of the over-the-road companies. Change frequently!
The secret to long diesel engine life is: CHANGE THE OIL / OIL FILTER / FUEL FILTER at prescribed intervals. I don't like to go much longer than 5k miles on an oil/filter change.
Blackstone Oil Analysis (Blackstone.com), ($17.00, every couple of changes) indicates that my engnine is doing great, got 30k miles on now, average 16 to 17 mpg around town, 20 - 21 on the interstate, and 11.9 to 12.5 when towing our TT.
Enjoy your diesel!!
2002 Ford PSD C/C
2004 Cedar Creek Silverback 31LBHS
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native37
deceased
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Joined: 08/27/2002
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Ditto.
Use of synthetics is not necessary unless you're going to do extended service (ie more than 10k mi btw changes). Anything less is cost prohibitive.
Oil analysis works for us on the three otr rigs we have. Those changes are done at 50k mi.
As to oil filters. Cummins uses Fleetguard and that's what we use.
Best advice? Follow the manual.
deceased
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texatDurango
North Texas
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Joined: 02/10/2002
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Actually I like to use synthetic oil for it's lubricating properties not for the extended oil life. My opinion is that it is perfectly fine to spend my money on synthetic and still change it every 10,000 miles.
My truck, like my other vehicles was bought for a purpose, one of which was not to see how many miles I could get out of a couple gallons of oil.
Is it wasting money or investing in an expensive engine? I like to think it's an investment. 
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Foureagles
Two-piss road, Sheloeta mine, Colorado
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Joined: 05/17/2003
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First the disclaimer: I am not at all up on current diesel technology. I was a diesel mechanic back in the '70s, and haven't been able to stomach getting near them since.
Generally, the greater shear strength of a synthetic lube means that you can get by with thinner stuff than with dino oil. This has advantages in rapid delivery of lube on cold start, and reduced pumping losses. Also, the long molecule chain of synthetics means more residual protection at zero pressure.
Straight dino oil begins breaking down at lower temperatures than full synthetic. Whether or not this is an issue for you depends on the thermal characteristics of your particular rig. I have seen good Castrol cook to syrup in 20 minutes of high-load driving, while Mobil-1 in the same rig put up with anything thrown at it.
The waiting for break-in before using synthetic theory has been largely discounted, as evidenced by several OEMs specifying synthetic from the get-go. On my last motor build I used cheap 30 weight for initial fire-up and the first 20 minutes, then good 10/40 Castrol GTX for the first 500 miles (both for economic reasons), then Mobil-1 thereafter.
Synthetic blends offer most of the strength benefits, but little of the temperature resistance of pure synthetics. Extended oil & filter changes can make the 3x price difference a wash in cars that take 4 or 5 quarts, but I'd be nervous about pushing 15 quarts far enough to get my investment back.
It's a shame about Fram. A quarter-century back they were the industry standard. I don't know if they just failed to keep up, or purposely sold out their reputation for quick gain. They seem to be attempting a Cadillac-like comeback, with great attention to marketing, and even some to product. I like Purolator Pure One filters for their decent design at a realistic price point (as opposed to say uber-pricey K&N).
If a standard filter clogs within reasonable oil change intervals, then you have problems more serious than filter choice. The Canton style filters might be appropriate if it turns out that synthetic lube lasts a long, long time in your application. My experience with synthetics is all in high-revving tiny gas motors, and it only seems to last twice as long as dino.
I suppose if I had a stinkin' diesel, I'd put some faith in what big rig mechanics recommend.
{{{{
* This post was
edited 07/29/03 10:16am by Foureagles *
"Don't confuse symmetry with balance" Tom Robbins
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DMoneyAllstar
Ohio
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Joined: 09/19/2003
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There is nothing wrong with FRAM filters. I've always ran FRAM fuel & oil filters in my SCCA car and street car with NO PROBLEMS EVER.
I know a couple engineers that work at FRAM in NW Ohio, and they're some intelligent meticulous bastards, to say the least. After meeting these FRAM guys, I'll never buy any oil filter except for a FRAM or the OEM filter. FRAM filters are build to meet/exceed the OEM filter performance and they have a well-established testing lab to prove all of this out. Plus, FRAM has been making filters for 60+ years. They're still #1 in the business, so they must know what they're doing.
In conclusion, FRAM filters do not suck.
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M GO BLUE
Southgate, MI
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Joined: 01/29/2001
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I have been using Rotella T Multigrade 15W-40 in my PSD through the spring and winter but the owner's manual prefers 10W-30 below 30 degrees F byt says 115W-40 is okay until 0 degrees F.
How many actually change the oil to 10W-30 during the colder months or here in Michigan would it be okay to use Rotella T Multigrade
15W-40 throughout the entire year (including winter)?
ERIC & BEV
2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 dually CC/LB Duramax/Allison
2008 Jayco Designer 35RLTS fith wheel
Onan 5500W Marquis Gold gas generator
KEEP A LOOK OUT FOR OUR SPRING 2010 RALLY!
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AAFD
Michigan
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Joined: 05/05/2003
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As stated I would put some miles on your truck before switching over to synthetics, with dodge they say 20k miles before you switch. Also as stated go with good filters. I to have talked with several diesel owners that have had a large repair bill using Fram filters!
KC
05 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager 8379 triple side with the Atrium
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Kenneth
Washington, the state
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Joined: 03/20/2001
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Dog,
As Johnny O said, you must use oil for diesel engines. These will be API Service Category CH-4 or CI-4. You must not use Mobil 1 or any other gasoline engine oil.
Reread that manual. Frigid parts of the country will have diesel CH-4 10W-30 available in winter, not summer.
Brands I like...
Schaeffer Supreme #700 15W-40 synthetic blend
Chevron Delo 400 15W-40
Mobil Delvac 1300S 15W-40
Pennzoil LongLife 15W-40
Valvoline Premium Blue 15W-40
Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 synthetic (but not worth the money unless you do extended drain intervals and/or drive in frigid weather)
Amsoil 15W-40, same concerns as Delvac 1, but costs more. (Don't buy the hype about Amsoil's very long drain intervals...analysis is essential to preserve your warranty...and don't buy the hype about Amsoil's warranty...read the fine print.)
Shell Rotella-T & Rotella Synthetic?...adequate, but you can do better for the same money.
Filters?...
ACDelco
Fleetguard, especially their Stratapore line
Baldwin (including Hastings & Amsoil)
WIX & NAPA-Gold
Donaldson
(Mobil 1 filters, made by Champion Laboratories, are good, don't know if they're in your size, and probably not worth the cost.)
Clean, fresh, good quality, well filtered fuel is more essential to a good running diesel than certain oils and filters.
Ken
I'm free of prostate cancer for 5 years now.
All men over age 50 should get an annual PSA blood test. Mine had a low reading, but the yearly jump was significant. The biopsy showed cancer just entering the aggressive stage. Dr. Hackenslash removed it.
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Kenneth
Washington, the state
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Joined: 03/20/2001
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Quote:There is nothing wrong with FRAM filters. I've always ran FRAM fuel & oil filters in my SCCA car and street car with NO PROBLEMS EVER.
I know a couple engineers that work at FRAM in NW Ohio, and they're some intelligent meticulous bastards, to say the least. After meeting these FRAM guys, I'll never buy any oil filter except for a FRAM or the OEM filter. FRAM filters are build to meet/exceed the OEM filter performance and they have a well-established testing lab to prove all of this out. Plus, FRAM has been making filters for 60+ years. They're still #1 in the business, so they must know what they're doing.
In conclusion, FRAM filters do not suck.
FRAM filters are probably OK, but if you cut one open and look at how cheaply they're built, it's scary. Lots of folks complain about the cardboard end caps. The problem I see with the cardboard is that it's used to center the filter in the canister, used to hold the cheap, leaky bypass valve, and used to center the antidrainback valve. I've seen photos of an antidrainback valve that moved out of position inside the canister and blocked oil flow. FRAM had to redesign their filter for the 2000 Cummins 5.9L engine because of concerns that internal filter parts were coming loose and clogging piston cooling nozzles. Are they built to OEM specs?...my understanding is that the OEMs do not issue specs. The filter makers reverse engineer OEM filters to determine the specs. Anyone interested can cut open a filter from their truck's dealer and the corresponding FRAM and give us a report on their findings. I've done that for the wife's car. The FRAM looked cheaply made and the MANN looked to be far superior quality. For $3 more, I'll buy the filter that looks good to me.
FRAM is #1 in volumn because they're so cheap. Look how many chain parts stores don't stock anything else. Even Wal*Mart is reducing their house brand SuperTech filters, made by Champion Laboratories, and stocking more FRAM filters, and we all know that Wal*Mart only buys the lowest of low bid stuff.
The 60 years in business arguement is specious. Yes, maybe the name has been around a long time. FRAM has had several owners and it seems that some of the owners told the designers to take some costs out of the product.
Ken
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