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 > Lug nut torque

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knesdad

Wisconsin

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Posted: 04/28/09 06:23am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PapPappy wrote:

I think I'd invest in a wrench from Sears.....Craftsmen makes good stuff! Here is one

This is the one I bought a couple years back and have been very happy with it.

Dave.


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mosseater

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Posted: 04/28/09 07:52am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You may be correct in certain instances. If hardware is new and threads are clean there will probably be very little galling at takeup. But, if you`re introducing friction, damage, or wear into the equation, you`re not really reading torque, you`re reading restistance to torque. How tight a fastner should be is a function of how much bolt stretch you need to do the job (holding the pieces together) with a given fastener material in a given application. In order to get accurate tensile loads, you need to have accurate engagement surfaces without friction. If a fastener breaks under a rated torque spec, it wasn`t a good fastener to begin with. Torques don`t lie. Torque specs are based on tesile loads of the steel the fastener is manufactured from. In a real world situation, reused fasteners cleaned and lubed may well break at less than optimum torque loads. More than likely, said fastener was overtightened before in it`s life and that next cycle with lube was enough to make it fail. I doubt you`ll see too many new fasteners break at less than rated torque even if they`re lubed.


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dyb

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Posted: 04/28/09 06:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I need a short extension to do my lugs. How do you allow for this on choosing torque setting ?


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Pete D

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Posted: 04/28/09 11:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The torque may not lie, but the same torque on two bolts, one lubed and one not, will produce DIFFERENT tensile stress on the bolts. Lug nuts and bolts should be clean and dry and NOT lubed.

If the old bolts or nuts are that bad, replace them.

One can easily tell if a wheel is lug-centric, because there will be clearance all the way around between the wheel's center hole and the hub itself -- Look at trailer wheel and automotive wheel to see the difference.


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smkettner

Southern California

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Posted: 04/28/09 11:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can get a cheepo at pepboys in the bargain bin for about $25 that clicks. I have used my Craftsman microtorque (150#) for over 30 years now and it has done fine. Recently needed a little more so I bought a new Craftsman digitorque to get up to 250#. The old one will now go on the road with me.

As said the progressive tightening is to minimize stress from cranking the first up to 120# while the others are loose. I do the ~25# by hand then go 60# with the wrench and finish with 105#. That is you tighten all to 25 then all to 60 then finish all at 105 or your spec.


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mosseater

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Posted: 04/28/09 11:36pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

The torque may not lie, but the same torque on two bolts, one lubed and one not, will produce DIFFERENT tensile stress on the bolts. Lug nuts and bolts should be clean and dry and NOT lubed.

That is true, I agree. My point is that a true rated torque on a fastener will probably not exceed the rated tensile strength of that fastener even if lubed. I suppose we could get into friction coeficients of different lubes and all that. It obviously would make a difference. We actually got into this a while back at work and none of us were sure which method of torquing is considered the most accurate. I suspect measuring bolt stretch is, but many automated guns run on angle instead of ft/lb. We have several pnuematic guns on critical fasteners (cranks, rods, mains, carriers, etc.)running on process controllers and they all torque on ft/lb. within a lb or two in the 120-180 range. Not sure of all the various ranges in the shop, but they are remarkably consistant. I know they use lube on all the critical fasteners, and they do break a few now and then. These are almost all reused fasteners and the vast majority are grade eight. I`d bet anyone consistantly breaking fasteners is tightening too fast. How fast you come up to spec can have an effect too. Very easy to overrun if you rip and tear using hand wrenches.

Sellador

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Posted: 05/18/09 05:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I thought I'd tag onto the end of this thread since it's about my topic and also because I'm refering to some of the posts in it. I'm new to all this and have gathered the importance of getting the right torque on the lugs of my TT wheels, so I called my dealer to ask what the correct torque is. (Before anyone suggests it, I had looked in my TT manual and every remotely-related extra manual and all I could find was a statement to be sure to always keep the lug nuts at the recommended torque.) Anyway, the dealer first said not to worry about it... just be sure they're tight. When I pressed and said I'd rather set them to the recommended torque, he said it was 85 ft-lbs. Normally, I'd figure that's it and do what he says, but all of you guys in here are talking about much higher numbers for your settings. Does 85 ft-lbs sound like a reasonable specification for lug nuts torque? The trailer is a 2008 21' Palomino Gazelle 178QB with a double axel and aluminum wheels. Does that sound reasonable or unreasonable to those of you who've had trailers of a similar size?

Old Hammer Boy

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Posted: 05/18/09 08:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sellador wrote:

I thought I'd tag onto the end of this thread since it's about my topic and also because I'm refering to some of the posts in it. I'm new to all this and have gathered the importance of getting the right torque on the lugs of my TT wheels, so I called my dealer to ask what the correct torque is. (Before anyone suggests it, I had looked in my TT manual and every remotely-related extra manual and all I could find was a statement to be sure to always keep the lug nuts at the recommended torque.) Anyway, the dealer first said not to worry about it... just be sure they're tight. When I pressed and said I'd rather set them to the recommended torque, he said it was 85 ft-lbs. Normally, I'd figure that's it and do what he says, but all of you guys in here are talking about much higher numbers for your settings. Does 85 ft-lbs sound like a reasonable specification for lug nuts torque? The trailer is a 2008 21' Palomino Gazelle 178QB with a double axel and aluminum wheels. Does that sound reasonable or unreasonable to those of you who've had trailers of a similar size?


There should be a small sticker on the rim with proper torque specs. It's almost large enough to read. Or there may be an information plate somewhere on the trailer. I have both on my Starcraft and the appropriate torque is 100-120 ft. Lbs. for my 14" Dexter rims.

BTW, I understand the same company that produces the torque wrenches for Sears also produces them for Harbor Frt. They look the same to me, and the H.F. units are quite inexpensive. I have three H.F. clicker wrenches (2 each, 1/2" and one 3/8") and a 1/2" beam type from Sears. A beam type is usually very reliable and seldom goes out of spec. I frequently check my H.F. units against the Sears unit and they have stayed right on spec.


I hope you will enjoy reading my journal about my bicycle ride, camping all the way across America at www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/dean. We also RV in our '07 Starcraft Travel Star 23QB, pulled with a good old stout Isuzu Trooper. It works

hammer21661

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Posted: 05/18/09 09:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Detroit Diesel said to lube the head, Flywheel and Bearing cap bolts. That is good enough reason for me to put some Never seeze on the lug nuts of a trailer.


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6.7Cummins

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Posted: 05/18/09 11:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have always and will always use Anti-seeze on all my lug nuts, Both automotive and trailer. I also lubricate ANY thread that requires a torque number. Contraversial yes. but this is what I do. (torque values are different lubricated and not)

FYI: a 1/2 20 grade 8 SAE Bolt Torque Value is 110 ft-lb with lubricated threads.

With that said the ONLY lug threads that I have had to make repairs on are those already damgaed due to being dry.


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